JFP in PA

A dealer or an indy with a PIWIS unit........................

Mike, I bought a 2001 2.7 Boxster last summer, and although it was shifting fine, I decided to changer the transmission oil. I went with the Amzoil 75/90 and ever since the car is difficult to to get into 1st and 2nd gear until the engine warms up a little. It's a little annoying, but I'm living with it. Next time I'll go with the Mobile One. I'm assuming that's what was in there before, but all I know is that the car had been maintained by the porsche dealer up until I bought it. Geoff The factory fill is a unique full synthetic product, produced to Porsche specs, which has no aftermarket equivalent. Gear oil manufacturers, at least the honest ones, have said repeatedly over the years that they do not produce an equivalent due to the unique specs. The rest say they "have something that works"............... We have only used the OEM fill in client's cars, and have never had any issues. We have also drained M1, RP, Redline and other makes out of cars that were having shifting issues, refilled them with the factory stuff, and all the problems promptly went away. Always be cautious when dealing with aftermarket blenders, to say the least, they tend to stretch the facts more than a little.........

Wow, talk about misconceptions! First, the IMS bearing fails because it is a sealed unit by design, preventing any engine oil from getting into it. When the bearing seals begin to die, the internal lubricant leaks out, galling begins, causing the failure. Oil contamination is not a factor in how it dies. One of the early "fixes" was to remove the OEM unit and pull the seals off it so that the engine oil could lubricate it. While this helped, the basic components of the bearing were both undersized and the wrong materials; which is why the LN unit uses ceramic balls rather than steel. As for oil and change intervals, this subject has been covered many times. Mobil 1 0W-40 is a poor oil choice for several reason, one being that it breaks down in a couple thousand miles. You should be using an ACEA A3, B3, B4 rated oil that UoA's have demonstrated holds up; there are 5W-40 and 10W-40 products readily available that more than do the job and fine for any climate other than the arctic, but should still be changed between 5-10K miles..........

Oil level is now perfect. Would still like to find a better dip stick, still very hard to tell the oil level on the stick. While the digital guage is good, there is no substitute for the dip stick. If that's the case, I'd suggest hanging on to your car, later models have no dip sticks..................

Other than to identify which type of bearing you have, without physically removing the unit (using the correct method which involves locking down the engine and releasing the tensioners) and examining it for play, looseness and wobble; you really have not learned much. Both LN and Jake Raby have a lot of information on what to look for when pulling the unit, including videos. If you are going in that far, you really should have replaced it……………….

You either need the OEM PIWIS/PST II computer or a Durametric software system; nothing else will do it...................

One point to consider is using the oil level indicator on the dash. The digital guage has arrows for min and max off to the right. There is one bar above the max arrow, does this mean an overfill of oil if that bar is solid? Depending upon how long the car has been sitting; yes if it has been sitting for a long period before reading, or no if the engine has just been turned off. It takes some time for the oil to cool and settle and get a correct reading...... OK, looks like I have to drain some oil out, must have overfilled. Try doing a filter change, that will remove about 2/3 of a quart and is a lot less messy....................

One point to consider is using the oil level indicator on the dash. The digital guage has arrows for min and max off to the right. There is one bar above the max arrow, does this mean an overfill of oil if that bar is solid? Depending upon how long the car has been sitting; yes if it has been sitting for a long period before reading, or no if the engine has just been turned off. It takes some time for the oil to cool and settle and get a correct reading......

One point to consider is using the oil level indicator on the dash.

Looks like an external torx socket, good set costs about $20-30 at Sears and other outlets.....

Loren I appreciate the quick response. I'll double check with the dealer on this. Gus Thanks Loren Part numbers turned out to be correct--- although both Porsche Dealers here in Houston seemed hesitant. Seems the part is called a Transmission screw plug as well. With shipping time, etc--took 8 days to arrive. My 2000 2.7 has been on jack stands waiting for this Part ($4.57). During the course of changing the coolant pump and proper coolant flush I stripped the original part--although it was usable, I felt compelled to replace. Thanks Gus Suggestion: Put a small dab of anti seize on the plug before you torque it in; it will come out a lot easier (and without damage) the next time.

It needs to be "N" rated and on their "approved windsheild fluids" list..............

The Pentosin CHF 202 container states that it is fully compatible with the CHF 11S, but is not compatible with the older CHF 7.........

And so do the IMS issues; I personally know of two.....................

P1691 is usually either a short or lack of continuity between the DME and the instrument cluster, or a lack of ground at the cluster. While it could be the cluster itself, it rarely is, more often it is a wiring issue…………

We have. Basically, if you have an M96 of any vintage, there is some element of risk of the IMS failure. Porsche made multiple attempts at rectifying the problem, but only solved it with the introduction of the 9A1 replacement for the M96, which does not have the intermediate shaft....................

You probably tripped the system pulling the seat. Did you leave the key in or listen to the radio while working on the car? Either can trip the airbag MIL. Unfortunately, unless you own the Durametric software, you will have to take it to a dealer to get the MIL cleared..................

Wouldn't an OBD II scanner pick out which one it is?

Or won't admit to it....................... B)

We use 10W-40 as the "standard" offering at my shop now for several years; only difference is that we do not use any Mobil 1 products......

That's just it....no one seems to provide a clear answer only opinions. What does the owners manual recommend? There are several major disconnects on this issue: 1. Porsche produces an almost mystical “approved” oils list, but regularly changes it, without any explanation of why a particular oil was added or dropped. 2. Some oil compounders (mostly smaller ones) employ totally deceptive marketing practices to imply that they have specific oil ratings when the actually do not (a fact that can be independently verified). 3. Major oil producers reformulate their products constantly, often to the extent that they totally lose some ratings that a particular grade used to hold, and yet they say nothing. Some of these companies fortunately are honest enough to change the packaging to indicate that a specific rating is no longer held, but you have to search for it to find out. 4. Owner’s manuals are time capsules. The products and grades recommended in 2001 or 2005 may no longer exist, or meet the same ratings they did when the manual was printed. This basically renders the manuals useless……….. This leaves you, the consumer, in the unfortunate position of having to become more informed and staying up to date on the latest changes in the available products, and while there are a lot of resources available, it is something not everyone is interested in doing. There is also the option of doing your own testing, which is both time and $ consuming, but very informative. So, here we sit, “caveat emptor”, unless we are willing to do our own homework, or trust the data collected by others………….

This is a no-brainer; if one has failed, others may follow (this spring did not fail without reason). If you replace one, that valve will probably have better spring pressure than the others will. You already have it apart; do you want to be doing this again in two months? I would do all new springs, retainers and retainer locks. I would also be sure to check installed heights as well as open and seat pressures for both the original and the replacements. Would also be a good time to check for guide wear, new seals and a freshened up valve job.............. Do it right and you’ll only do it once……..

As I mentioned earlier, I have no direct experience with Amsoil products. I'm sure they produce a reasonable quality oil that will do fine in many applications. I just am circumspect about their oils because of their strange statements that "recommend" their oils for applications that require ACEA. If you have ACEA, why not just say it? And if they don't have it, they are not unlike other small oil compounders that use "legalese" to try to get around the fact...............

Beside the number times it has been posted on various sites, like BITOG; if you do a search for the current ACEA oil sequences, you can find a large PDF file that lists their requirements for complying.............I should warn you that, as is the case with most European community legal documents, it is a bit of a ponderous read, and references several agreements and protocols, which you will also need to read to get the full picture….. Excerpts from the most recent sequences: “ACEA requires that any claims for Oil performance to meet these sequences must be based on credible data and controlled tests in accredited test laboratories. ACEA requires that engine performance testing used to support a claim of compliance with these ACEA sequences should be generated according to the European Engine Lubricants Quality Management System (EELQMS), but ACEA reserves the right to define alternatives in exceptional cases. EELQMS which is described in the ATIEL Code of Practice1, addresses product development testing and product performance documentation, and involves the registration of all candidate and reference oil testing and defines the compliance process. Compliance with the ATIEL Code of Practice is mandatory for any claim to meet the requirements of the 2008 issue of the ACEA sequences. Therefore, ACEA requires that claims against the ACEA oil sequences can only be made by oil companies or oil distributors who have signed the EELQMS oil marketers’ Letter of Conformance.” . In addition, when a marketing type from RP started claiming that they had ACEA ratings because RP used “ACEA approved ingredients” on a Landrover website, someone from ACEA actually replied with the ACEA sequences requirements, noting that “ACEA only rates finished products, not ingredients” and that “any change in a rated formulation requires resubmission for independent testing in order to regain compliance.” I think you are beginning to see why ACEA is a bit more credible than the API standards…………..

I really don't know much about Amsoil as their multi tiered marketing and distribution system turns off most shops; we prefer dealing with local or regional distributors that stock a lot of products (and brands) and offer reasonable discounts for commercial operations that buy in volume. That said, I would be circumspect about their claims as their site says their products “surpass the most demanding European specifications. It is recommended for European and North American gasoline or diesel vehicles requiring any of the following worldwide specifications”: • API SM/CF • ACEA C3 • ACEA A3/B3 • ACEA A3/B4 • BMW LL-04 • Mercedes Benz 229.31, 229.51 • Porsche • Saab • Volvo • Volkswagen 502.00, 505.00, 505.01 • DaimlerChrysler MS-10725 This looks like more “our marketing department recommends” verbiage to me as they do not actually state they are ACEA rated (meaning they have paid to have their oils tested in an independent lab under ACEA regimen, and agreed to “freeze” the formulation once it has successfully passed. ACEA only rates finished products, not ingredients, and any change, no matter how slight, requires re-testing to obtain their rating). They also list Porsche and other OEM’s, which would make their product a big seller if it were true, but I have never seen their products listed on the OEM’s “recommended oils” lists for any of the brands they mentioned. As for ACEA, I’d shoot an email to the manufacturer (not one of their hoard of “distributors”) and ask them to tell you when (date) they received ACEA, and for what products, and under which “oil sequence” (ACEA term for their test specs). You can also contact ACEA and ask them if Amsoil participates in their program, and what ratings they have obtained. Be prepared to wait for a response from ACEA, they tend to take their time answering. I’d be willing to bet all the responses you receive will be negative…………..