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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Normally, we like to run a profile on the Durametric prior and post installation; just to verify that the cams are were they belong. The car in question is a five chain motor, which is more tolerant of IMS bearing install screw ups, but not immune. Logray is on the money as far as looking at the cams, but if you have access to a Durametric, I would hook it up and look at the cam deviation values, both of which should be rock steady and idle and +/- 6 degrees. The actual values are always an odd set of numbers, but they need to be in that +/- 6 degree range. The Durametric is a much quicker and a very accurate way to check this out. In the future, if an Indy suggests "we don't need no cam locking tools", run…………..
  2. JFP in PA
    If you find the three VIN’s limiting, look at Durametric’s Pro version; it has no limits. For general purposes, we use Actron’s OBDII units, which can read and clear most codes on just about any brand, even on Porsche’s, with the exception of what PCNA call “protected code areas” such as the PSM/PASM, ABS, Airbags, and even the service alert. For those, you either need a Durametric system (we use the Pro version), or a PIWIS. We looked into acquiring a PIWIS, but when we found out that the first years lease was in the $17K range, we opted to add another bay and lift to the shop instead. The AutoEnginuity rep keeps trying to get us to take one of their units, but both the economics and its lack luster performance compared to the Durametric keep ending the conversation.
  3. JFP in PA
    As could the reflash; I'd take that back to stock as well to see what happens....................
  4. JFP in PA
    Several possibles: Level sensor leak, pressure sensor leak, oil cooler leak, etc. Best bet is to clean off the engine, then look for where it starts.......
  5. JFP in PA
    If it came off easily, you are fine.
  6. JFP in PA
    We have never seen this type of repair last either. You also need to consider where the tank is cracked; sometimes it is necessary to remove the tank to see or attempt to repair the crack, making a temporary repair a little ridiculous..........
  7. JFP in PA
    Do an online search yourself, you can get a new one here, online, for about $60-70:
  8. JFP in PA
    +1 That is the center hub of the clutch type pulley, which can and do fail as you described. You will need the special tool, a new pulley, and belt, and you will be back in business....
  9. JFP in PA
    I'm not sure about there being a common junction for the wiring, as the signal and heater wiring serve different purposes I would expect not; but there are diagnostics to check for the sensor signal and heater voltage using a multimeter. I'd be running them before spending more money on sensors....
  10. JFP in PA
    I seriously doubt that replacing the O2 sensors will fix this; two of the codes (0154 and 1119) are telling you that there may be a wiring or connector issue in the O2 circuits: P0154 is the code for the interruption of the signal from the senor ahead of the 3 way cat on bank 4-6. P1119 is the code for a non functioning sensor heater.
  11. JFP in PA
    Should be row D, fuse #5.
  12. JFP in PA
    All Porsche's have had lighters that are "hot" at all times for many years specifically to accommodate using a battery maintainer connected there. If yours is not hot, check the fuse.
  13. JFP in PA
    1. The Ctek 3300 does get warm when it is charging, but cools when it gets to full charge. All Ctek units have built in overheat protection that will reduce output or shut the unit off. 2. The fact that the mode control button does not move the setting to the car icon is a problem. Do either of the 1/2 battery or full battery indicator led's come on? You are supposed to connect the unit to the car first (cigarette lighter or alligator clips) then plug the unit in and try to set it to the car mode. If you cannot, it may be an indication that either you have a bad battery ground, poor cable connections at the battery, or the battery itself is defective. 3. Your cigarette lighter should work with this unit; I currently have four cars running on them that way at the moment. 4. Are any of the Ctek's led's flashing?
  14. JFP in PA
    The windshields that cause interference (blockage) of radar signals use a thin metalized film imbedded between layers of the glass. Typically, these windscreens have a slightly golden metallic sheen if looked at on an angle in bright light. Because of the metallic film, the radar waves are reflected and never reach the detector mounted inside the vehicle. Several manufacturer's use this technology as they can pass a low voltage current through the entire glass surface rather than just in localized areas, improving the deicing. If the heated windshield option uses this method, it will block the radar signal. I would also try driving an example at night as many have commented that oncoming low beam headlights tend to “halo” or “glare” more when this option is present.
  15. JFP in PA
    The power steering systems in these cars suffer from a couple of issue; first, the reservoir volume is too small and in a location where it is seldom looked at (even worse in a Boxster or Cayman); and second, due to how the system is packaged, they tend to overheat. Street cars typically do not suffer a lot of problems unless the steering reservoir was allowed to run dry. Track cars suffer a lot more due to accumulated heat. In either case, once steering pump noise or issues develop from heat and/or low fluid levels, nothing can be done to save it, component replacement is on the horizon as the pumps are not easily rebuilt (lack of parts availability). Employing an external cooler is a good move for someone into serious track use, as noted by another poster. Changing fluids to another manufacturer is questionable as these systems use a lot of seals that can be adversely affected by the wrong fluid type. If you are committed to buying the car, I would get a couple of quotes for replacing the pump and rack, and factor that into the offer.
  16. JFP in PA
    If you have ABS, you need the PST II/PIWIS because you probably have gotten air into the ABS control system with the master cylinder swap out as the Motive system forces the air downward into the system...........
  17. JFP in PA
    Normally, a bad AOS will have an unusually high vacuum in the sump. Try removing your oil filler cap with the engine running, it it is difficult to get off, you have a bad AOS.
  18. JFP in PA
    If I'm not mistaken, wasn't this issue recently written up in Excellence magazine? If it is, they came up with a welding solution that is supposed to be a permanent fix............
  19. JFP in PA
    Exactly, as stated earlier, the very early cars had an adaptor plate, which is what yours is; the later "S" cooler will still bolt in, and as Loren pointed out, is the only style replacement cooler available.......... As for the coolant, if the system is not drained prior to pulling the cooler, it will dump about 2 liters of coolant all over the engine, and some will most likely go down the oil passages. Removing the vent line will not cause the system to drain down; the cooler remains full of coolant when the engine is not running............
  20. JFP in PA
    The cooler is the only place coolant is anywhere near the fluid, it has to be the source.
  21. JFP in PA
    Actually, we do have experience with it, some with aftermarket conversion kits as well as with some of the OEM "Flex Fuel" setups, which I believe is what the OP was asking about, and what I based my comments on. So I would not say that my shop "doesn't have any experience" with the technology; we do, and it hasn’t always been as smooth or easy a route to cheap performance that some marketer’s would like you to think; which is also I also believe the OP wanted to know as well.
  22. JFP in PA
    Yawn......................... B) Look, if you are so "had up" about using E85, be my guest. I see far better performance pathways for these vehicles, with fewer maintenance headaches, than high EtOH based fuels, particularly on engines that are not normally aspirated, and definitely not those with DFI. In the end, it is your money, your vehicle, and your problem. Just don’t expect everyone to agree with your choices……….
  23. JFP in PA
    As most, if not all of the customers (and potential customers as well) that approach us concerning upgrades or modifications to their vehicles are fairly astute and reasonably well read on the options available. The read the usual performance magazines and post on websites focused on their particular make and model. As such, they have been exposed to a lot of potential modifications, and usually start by asking about the relative merit of “A” over “B” or “C” pathway to more power/better handling, etc. Very few come to us clueless about what they want or need to do. As for E85 availability, it was more prevalent sometime back than it is now, primarily due to slow sales. As tough as this economy is, station operators cannot tie up pumps and underground storage with fuel that simply does not move that quickly, so they converted their dedicated E85 equipment over to regular gas. Just as a “by-the-by”, you are aware that Porsche released a document sometime ago (perhaps a year) cautioning owners about the corrosion problems associated with E10 fuels, recommending that 10% EtOH containing fuels should be subject to additive use (Stabil) at every fill up to limit these issues. Excellence Magazine did a write up on it………….
  24. JFP in PA
    Just so we are clear: We hear about extensively modifying Porsches everyday; along with our Merc, BMW, Ferrari, and Maserati customers as well; and with our domestic crowd. Not one has brought the subject up. Upgraded turbo's and associated gear, headers/exhaust systems, cams, reworked heads, intake manifolds, injectors, throttle bodies, total upgraded engine swaps, computer re-flashes, even the occasional nitrous set up; but no E85. Perhaps at the "complex carbohydrate adolescent" shop across town, but not here...................
  25. JFP in PA
    I think he wanted to have metal flakes checked, not oil, to reveal the exact alloy. In any case, he will need a metallurgic lab to determine what the alloy is, and I do not know of one that is “Porsche specific” and able to tell you where the alloy came from; that is simply way too specific. I think any decent metal lab can do the alloy break down, figuring out where it came from would best be addressed by someone that spends a lot of time building there engines from scratch......
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