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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Believe it or not, ATE, the brake fluid people, make a $15 tool to determine which side had the shutter wheel in it…….works every time.
  2. I would also check the fuel pressure and the battery/charging system (alternator voltage, load test the battery) as they can also stop the car in its tracks.
  3. You can pinch the hoses off while replacing it, but if the coolant is 5 or more years old, it would be a good time to change it.
  4. The Optima is a full output and normally BCI rated CCA spiral wound AGM design, highly vibration and temperature resistant, so it actually lives quite long in these cars (7-8 years is not unusual). Optima's were designed to exceed the rigors of automotive type applications. Braile on the other hand is a very lightweight “racing” AGM design, with much lower CCA ratings when tested according to the industry standard BCI procedures. It keeps its weight down by leaving out all the heavy stuff that allows normal SLI (starting, lighting, and ignition) to live in the tough environment of the automotive world. End result is they weigh less, have shorter lives, and often lead to current related problems (dim lights, poor cranking in cool/cold, short lived alternators, electronics issues, etc.). For a race application, they would be fine; they are not designed for the street (regardless of the marketing hype).
  5. OK, here's your problem: The base car and S car use two different diameter hard cooling pipes that lead to the forward radiators. At one time, Porsche's "kit" for upgrading the base car to carry the center radiator had special molded hoses that corrected for this anomaly. Unfortunately, those hoses have totally disappeared and now all you can get are the standard "S" hoses which are too big. This has been causing folks to start soldering fittings together to try and make a leak tight fit, or spending a lot of time and money to replace the hard pipes. Fortunately, somebody had come up with a neat solution that is reasonably priced. A Porsche shop called Precision Chassis Works had machined up adaptors that either you can have TIG welded to your pipes, or you can send them your pipes and they will redo them, or they will sell you hard pipes with the adaptors already welded in. All for about $100 (with the exchange for your pipes). http://www.precision...dification.html Ultra clean installed, never leak.
  6. 2002 was the "official" last year. As with most things Porsche, some had them in 2002, some did not............
  7. P0455 is the "large vacuum leak" code for the EVAP system; usual suspect is the gas cap..................
  8. Yes, unless he has a replacement engine. 2002 was the last year for the tubes, 2003's did not removable tubes.
  9. To change the plugs, and pull, inspect, and re-o-ring the plug tubes (only if they show signs of leakage and they need it) should take a couple hours of shop time plus parts. Actual cash value will depend upon the shop's prevailing hourly rate and local parts pricing. I would also have the coil packs checked out for cracking or deterioration due to their age, any questionable ones should be replaced.
  10. We do this for a living so you can imagine how many plugs we change in a year; we use anti seize on all sparkplugs, torque all plugs, and have never had one back out. That really is an "urban legend"................as are claims that your wheels will fall off if you use it on your wheel lugs, which we also do...............
  11. The valve at the engine end is more of a check valve than an operational valve (it has no electrical connections); I think you need to look more closely at the EVAP canister end. One thing you can do is hook the car up to a PIWIS or Durametric system and cycle the various valves at the canister end to make sure they are functioning. Have you also checked the seal on the gas cap? They do fail and cause noise as well.
  12. He is talking about the gas filler cap, not the oil cap, which is an EVAP system related issue, which is usually a vacuum leak and why he is seeing stumbling issues when driving.
  13. K&N is really no better than the Wix unit, but it is a Hell of a lot more expensive. Mahle is the OEM unit, although some cars have come from the factory with Mann filters in them as well.
  14. This is exactly why it is a very good practice to put a small amount of anti seize on the plugs before torquing them in, along with a small amount of dielectric grease on the coil boot.. We have had cars come back for plug service more than eight years after we replaced them, and the old plugs came right out with no drama. A lot of people like to say that using anti seize on the plugs in these engines is not called for, but once you see the grief a seized or galled plug causes, the silver paste suddenly becomes cheap insurance. We have never had a coated plug cause a problem, regardless of age or mileage..........
  15. Some words cannot possibly be used in the same sentence; "cheap rebuild" and "Porsche" is one example.........
  16. We see this type of variation all the time; you are in spec and fine.
  17. You should never, repeat never, use a pump with a metal impeller in the M96/97 engine. When the bearing goes, and it will, the metal impeller can chew the Hell out of the engine case, possibly ruining it. Stay with the OEM pumps with composite impellers only...............
  18. Spend the $36 and buy the Sir 9025 set, you will be able to fix this problem, as well as any other similar issue on any car you will ever own in the future...............
  19. To relplace the front seals (converter snout and front pump) on a Tip, you need at least three special tools, which are the same ones used on VW & Audi.
  20. If memory serves, a 2001 Boxster will not have any OBC displays until some type of controling switch (e.g.: the fourth stalk or a momentary contact rocker switch) is installed and operational. The Durametric problems sounds like a glitch.
  21. And they are usually some strange color hue, which is weird because they typically cannot be seen..........
  22. I am yet to see any definitive dyno data from a reputable source that shows any after market filter consistently makes meaningfully more HP or torque. Most of what you find is regurgitated marketing hype from one or more manufacturers, which is a lot like the whopping gains some exhaust system and header manufacturer's claim.
  23. We always are concerned about third party DME re flashes potentially causing some type of harm to the DME itself (read expensive to replace), or causing loss of warranty (a real issue) on new cars. This device perplexes me even more because it attaches to the IAT sensor via two wires and supposedly works its magic reprogramming from there rather than the more conventional route. Weird……
  24. Without reading the codes, anything would be a wild guess...................
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