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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. First, be careful; there are a lot of nearly useless PIWIS "clones" being sold on the internet, many of China.
  2. I'd say go ahead and try it, I have seen people use the squat "pancake" style portable compressors used to run nailers and it worked, it just took a bit longer to pull full vacuum. After you use this unit once, you will wonder how you ever did coolant changes without it....
  3. As we see a lot of OEM parts, I can assure you that there is no "correct" place on the part this sticker should go, it seems to vary from part to part, and even two of the same parts may have the sticker is a slightly different position.
  4. One that can deliver 80-90 PSIG @ 4-5 CFM is recommended, but I have seen it work with smaller units as well.
  5. The car should hold 25+ inches of vacuum indefinitely if the system is sealed. We typically let cars sit under vacuum for 15 min. as a final leak test before refilling them. You should have bought the Uview unit, it is cheaper than the SnapOn and comes with every adaptor you will ever need..................
  6. Sound absorber wheel housing front left............... http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/997-05-08/807-16.php
  7. Until you sort out this issue, I would not be driving the car. I am not aware of s specific relay for that function, but if there is one, it would be in the rear boot relay panel.
  8. As your car is ROW (rest of world; or non US), you will not see data for the second cam with a Durametric system.
  9. I'm sure there are electrical test procedures, but I am currently away from my shop so I do not have access to the OEM manuals at the moment. Normally, if the solenoid does not trigger, it is not worth testing it, we pull and replace them. They are much like a light bulb, they work or they do not, providing there are no wiring issues.
  10. So far I have tried trigering when the engine was running. There was a noticable engine note change when bank 2 trigered but nothing on bank 1. I will try with the engine not running, also i understand its posible to test the solinoid and sensor ? any idear of ohm readings ? I did expect to see the readings changing on bank 2 ? as the engine speed increased ? Also where is the cam position sensor located ? have looked a couple of times and have yet to see it ? when cold during warming up no problems at all ! regards Brett Starting to sound more like the VarioCam actuator solenoid rather than the cam position sensor, based upon your input. The cam position sensors are located on the top end of each cylinder head (opposite ends for banks 1 & 2): The VarioCam actuator solenoid is a common failure point on these cars, but is easy to swap out once you get to it:
  11. Most probably the cam position sensor on bank 1 is the problem. Should not be a major issue for a shop to verify and/or replace the sensor. The Durametric should be able to tigger the VarioCam unit on that bank, if you hear it "click", but the values do not change, the sensor needs to come out.
  12. What you really need to see is the look on just one of my customer's faces when I tell them how much it is going to cost to replace just one TPM sensor when they bring the car in for regular service with a "no signal" warning on the dash display. And then comes the inevitable question of “Do you replace just the one, or do all of them?” And no shop, dealer or independent, will disable an OEM TPM system; the liability exposure is just too great.
  13. Not necessarily; cracked heads are often found because of intermix issues, not over heating.
  14. It can always be added, but I have to ask why? It is an overly expensive substitute for a tire pressure gauge forced upon the market by the Federal Behavioral Nannies. The wheel sensors alone are going cost over $100 per wheel, and require the tire bead be broken to install, followed by a rebalance. And they have to be periodically replaced. Buy a decent tire gauge; you will be better off...............
  15. That is because the extra 120 degrees tightened past the 19 ft. lbs. is one Hell of a lot more than 19 ft. lbs, and the factory bolts have a locking coating on them..................
  16. The AOS unit for the 996 has water passages in it. You need to retrace your install.............
  17. Just about every shop has a TPM sensor/tester that can read the condition of the TPM sensors inside the tire by just holding it next to the wheel, have someone check a couple of yours.
  18. The only thing products like this do is make your wallet easier to sit on; don't waste your money................
  19. Because you can get it were you are (it is not available in North America due to its higher ZDDP levels), I would be looking at Castrol’s Pro Edge (not the regular Edge product, the “Professional” line), and I would try to obtain their 10W-60 grade because of the heat that you see. Really good oil, only wish we could get the Pro Edge line here……….
  20. Loren, while the dealer network is no longer stocking the 11s (due to the car’s changing over to the 202 post 2005, and the fact that the products can be mixed without issue), the 11s product is still readily available in the aftermarket (most NAPA stores stock it, and even discount it). We are able to obtain it in quantity whenever we need it. Mixing the 11s with the 202, or substituting the 202 for the 11s is not an issue, but there is a slight difference between the two products, mostly in viscosity, so we try and stay with the 11s for the pre 05 cars whenever possible.
  21. Transmission coolers and differential coolers for cars with separate units are a fairly common item in racing circle’s as the gearboxes can get very hot. Requires setting up an electric pump capable of circulating the gear lube, braided lines and a cooler large enought to do the job somewhere where it can get air. Another approach is to use an oil/water inline cooler connected to the car’s coolant system, which can be much more compact as it does not need outside air to work.
  22. 2005 was a transitional year, some M96/97 engines had an IMS bearing that could be removed without taking the entire engine apart, and others did not. The only way to know for sure which type you are working with is to pull the trans and flywheel and look at the IMS center bolt; if it is a 22MM, you cannot service it without total disassembly of the engine.
  23. +1 on Loren's comments. When you encounter low torque values (like the oil cooler fasteners at 7 ft. lb.), you should be using an inch pound torque wrewnch instead of a foot pount unit.
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