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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Works every time.............
  2. JFP in PA
    We have looked that this a couple of times, and while we never ended up doing one (too costly) I have talked to a couple of shop owners that have done them. They are time consuming, expensive, and simply not worth the effort. You either have to source most of the hardware from Porsche or a wrecking yard, you end up with only a few items that are resell able, and the value of the car becomes diminished because of the transplant. In the end, the owners of the cars swapped over came to the conclusion they should have just sold the existing car and bought one the way they wanted it............... Can it be done? Sure; but the question becomes “should it be done” as seems it ends up with “the view not being worth the climb".
  3. JFP in PA
    Several firms sell these, LN Engineering (they make them, Flat Six Innovations (Jake Raby's firm), and Pelican Parts. Do a search...........
  4. JFP in PA
    The best stuff for lubricating the noisy rubber bits on the top used to be a now discontinued BMW product named “Gummi-Pflege”, which is really just a type of thin silicone grease. You can probably do just as well with spray silicone and rub it in.
  5. JFP in PA
    Look at it as a long term insurance policy and it won't feel so bad...................... :thumbup:
  6. JFP in PA
    Mike is spot on, the coolant tank sometime starts leaking only when hot because that is when the system pressure is at its maximum. You can hook up a pressure tester and run it while the engine is hot, even taking the system over the 18 PSIG normal running level to trip the leak. You can also add some UV coolant dye to the tank and run the engine until hot before looking for the leak with a black light source which usually very quickly points out the problem areas. Mike is also correct on being very careful about using the car in this condition, if the tank or another component suddenly completely fails, it will strand you and could overheat and take the engine with it; caution should be your focus at this juncture.....
  7. JFP in PA
    Pardon my repeated questions, but why do you need so much pressure? I've seen these non-DFI engines go big HP the dyno with lots of fuel volume (larger lines, bigger injectors, etc.), but without increasing the pressure. If you can find DFI lines that are the correct size and shape, they would work as the DFI operate north of 1,000 PSIG........
  8. JFP in PA
    You can lead a horse to water, but if you hold his head under until the bubbles stop coming up........................ :eek:
  9. JFP in PA
    As we have already had this conversation, I will repeat what I said earlier: "The stock Porsche rods are "adequate", but not great; any time rebuilding and upgrading a Porsche engine, we went with after market stuff; R&R and Carillo makes some very nice forged steel units, or you could jump for the big bucks and go titanium." $9K+ is a lot to risk on reconditioned rods with 100K on them, and I personally would not re use quality aftermarket rods with that kind of miles on them.......................
  10. JFP in PA
    Why are you trying to run such a high fuel pressure? Everything in the fuel system is rated for the factory 3.3-3.8 bar pressures, so I am not surprised things are not holding up when the pressures are nearly 46% higher.........
  11. JFP in PA
    Basically take everything apart just like you were going to pull the IMS, but because it won't come through the case, use a small pick to pull the rear seal off of the bearing, then reassemble everything..............
  12. JFP in PA
    Nor would anything in the drive line; sounds more like a mount issue.
  13. JFP in PA
    How about a tire or wheel bearing issue?
  14. JFP in PA
    In order to correct the journal size, you would significantly alter the journal end weighting, which could become difficult to dial into the crank counter weights. The overall rod and piston combined weight is critical, as again it plays into the crank counter weights as well. Having raced various Chevy engines myself, I can honestly say there are some rods that were pretty good, and others that were total rubbish, so a lot depends upon what the rods were for. The stock Porsche rods are "adequate", but not great; any time rebuilding and upgrading a Porsche engine, we went with after market stuff; R&R and Carillo makes some very nice forged steel units, or you could jump for the big bucks and go titanium.
  15. JFP in PA
    Battery maintainers are designed to keep good batteries at an optimum charge state, they are not designed to recharge fully discharged batteries; they simply lack the amperage out put to do it. That will require a more substantial unit. Suggest getting the battery fully charged and test (load test) to be sure it is OK. If it passes, the new maintainer will keep it in good condition.
  16. JFP in PA
    Depends upon many factors, realistically about 4-6 years is typical.
  17. JFP in PA
    All Porsche's have a slow (40-60 mA) current drain due all of the electronics; over time, it runs the battery down. Try recharging the battery, but then have it load tested as this condition is sometimes fatal to the battery. Then go out and buy a good battery maintainer (not a trickle charger) such as the Ctek units, and when the vehicle is going to sit, plug it into the cigarette lighter and it will keep the battery(s) fully charged.
  18. JFP in PA
    I own an independent shop, and we pull out a fair number of M96/97 Porsche alternators just about every day; we have never had to heat up an alternator case, or pound on it with anything. Loosening the bolt and giving it a tap or two is all that was necessary in all the years we have been doing it; the bushing only needs to move a thousandth or two for the alternator to come right out. I have no idea why you had such a problem, but we never have seen the need to risk heating up an alloy housing or beating on it.
  19. JFP in PA
    By going earlier, you get to correct the IMS issue, versus a few HP for considerable potential G&A (grief and aggravation)……….. All depends upon where your head and wallet are at.
  20. JFP in PA
    Unknowns: Are the journal and pin bores the correct diameter and width? Is the the length correct? Do the journal ends clear the crank carrier and cases? Is the weight the same or less than the OEM rods? If the answers to the above are mostly "No", it would be cheaper to go with quality aftermarket stuff. Not cheap, but well made and they at least fit..............
  21. JFP in PA
    Open the link in Loren's original posting and read item #7; that is all you need to do to move the bushing rearward and remove the alternator..................
  22. JFP in PA
    When considering a “non-conventional” fuel conversion, you need to first calculate the all in costs for doing the conversion, and then calculate the payback period to recover your out of pocket expenses. Quite often, this conversion ends up not making any sense on that basis. A second consideration it the availability of the new fuel type; some have found post conversion that long distance travel becomes problematic as you need to route your trips around the fuel source infrastructure locations.
  23. JFP in PA
    Never hurts to ask, but I seriously doubt that PCNA is going to come through on a car that is approaching 8 years old and that far out of warranty. We have a couple of customers with relatively low mileage 2005, 2006, and 2007 cars suffer the same fate, and even though they were multiple new car purchasers from the same dealership, PCNA only offered them a small discount off the replacement engines, none of them got the replacement costs covered. As for replacement engines, I'd look for a nice one in the 2003-2004 model time frame. Many of the 2005 engines came from the factory with the "final solution" unserviceable IMS in them, so I would also be looking at the last two years before the 2005's to be on the safe side. If you do find a 05, look at the IMS center bolt, if it is the 22MM unit, it is the one that cannot be replaced. If you find one with the smaller center bolt, it can be updated with the LN Engineering unit. Anything later than 2005 is not easily updateable without spending nearly as much money as buying the engine from PCNA. As for your experience with after-market warrantee coverage, you are not alone. For the most part, concerned owner’s would be better off putting the same funds in a “repair fund” account, or spending it on getting the engine updated with the LN unit. A lot of independent shop owners, myself included, will not deal with them on any repairs.
  24. JFP in PA
    The Durametric software would see it via cam deviation values. I'd start by checking fuel pressure and look for a bad crank position sensor (they can stop the M96 engine cold).
  25. JFP in PA
    In general, the IMS tends to fail while the engine is running, but there is nothing that would prevent it from "buying the farm" while trying to start.. That said, you issue could be any number of things: bad fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay, crank position failure (always a favorite), bad ingnition switch, etc. When the crank position sensor goes out, the DME thinks the engine is not turning, so it shuts off the fuel and spark; no start. Some diagnostics are in order; you need to determine if you have fuel pressure. If you have access to a Durametric system, it should be able to not only see any codes, but it could also run cam deviation values to see if they are where they are supposed to be (dead give away is if the cam timing has jumped).
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