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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. More years ago than I would care to admitt it, I bought several of these: At the time, they were reasonably priced, but have since gone up considerably. They still show up from time to time on fleabay. They are metal with a rubber pad around the center locking tang that locks into the jack points. Once mounted on the car, you have four 6 1/2" diameter metal pads for the lift to pick up the car. These also work well with floor jacks: One benefit, besides never slipping, is that they never mar the underside of the jack points, something some of my customers worry about.
  2. I'm sure it could be fabricated from any suitable material capable of holding the clip in compression until it is inserted into the wrist pin opening on the piston, as it only has to do it six times, unless you are a professional engine builder. The trick is knowing what the OEM tool looks like, and what it has to do, so that you can whip up a cheap substitute for the $300 "factory" tool..............
  3. Logray, that is exactly the "low bucks" approach we need to see more of; thanks for the idea. :thumbup: For those that have never assembled this part of an M96, this is the tool with the clip inserted: And here is Jake Raby using the above tool on the end of the "insertion device" to pop the clip into a piston: And the clip installed in the piston: Because you are "building a ship in a bottle" so to speak, when the clip holder gets stuck, it can be a major headache............
  4. Before I would jump to a 5W-50 weight oil, I'd try a quality 10W-40 full synthetic, providing your ambient climate is not frigidly cold. The slightly higher "W" weight typically offers a bit better film strength, particularly at start up and low oil pressure situations, such as at idle, which can help with the noise.
  5. If you are using a quality full synthetic oil, and the engine is running fine, no additives of any kind are necessary. If the car is showing signs of high mileage (poor leak down values, noise, oil consumption, etc.), no additve is going to help...........
  6. The dual mass flywheel is the only source of harmonic dampening in the engine, removal of that capability can lead to serious issues, like cracked (or worse) crankshafts. These engines are not particularly well internally balanced from the factory, so the dual mass dampening is rather important. More than one leading Porsche engine builder has recommended against using single mass flywheels unless the entire engine components and the flywheel are properly rebalanced as a unit. A second consideration is how well the single mass itself is balanced; we have seen several that were 10 grams (and more) out as delivered. These flywheels are also difficult to have accurately balanced; only a handful of machine shops can do a proper job. And even after one is correctly rebalanced, they still can be a bit of a pain to drive on the street due to clutch chatter related issues.
  7. Pelican Parts sells them... as I'm sure a bunch of other places do as well. They are called "Low Temperature Thermostast" they start to open at 160F instead of 181F The OEM stat starts to open at 186F, and is not fully open until well north of 200F..............
  8. But it should be able to show hours run time and average speed, from which you can calculate (within certain bounds) the milage.
  9. Yes, you can read a variety of data stored in the DME that can tell you a lot about what usage the vehicle has seen.
  10. You need to scan the DME with either a PIWIS or Durametric software system to find what you are looking for. You should also be aware that it is rather difficult to alter the odometer read out.
  11. While I am not aware of the TSB you are referring to, the full array of technical service bulletins this site has available are found under the “DIY Tools” tab at the top of this page, but are available only to contributing members.
  12. With a leak that large, I find it difficult to accept that you cannot see the source you should be able to see where it is coming from with the car up in the air. You could also make sure the car is full and start it while it is up to look for it.
  13. Being second to market is not as simple as it looks. It is often quite easy to copy a proven solution to a known problem and offer it a lower cost; the hard part is usually the associated support required (special tools, technical support, training installers, remotely trouble shooting blown installations, etc.,). The second part is where you both earn (and typically spend) the profits garnered in the first section................
  14. If you suspect the fuel system (pump. etc.), it is a 5 min. test to attach a fuel pressure gauge to the test port and check it . A quick scan with either a PIWIS or Durametric system should also tell you about any pending codes that might be related, as well as test just about everything else you have mentioned............
  15. I don't think they make one.
  16. I wuold still take the time to check the cables; bad cables will not only continue the problem, they can also hurt the new alternator. A few min. with a multimeter is all it takes to test the cables for excessive resistance.
  17. You can use any dielectric grease (couple of bucks at any auto parts store), which is nothing more than a silicone grease that is compatible with plastics and rubber. Works fine.
  18. I'd also take a look at where the cables attach to the gearbox, they are held in by clips that sometimes pop open, resulting in the cable not moving the selector. Quite often, they can just be snapped back into place and everything is fine.
  19. I'm not sure if they can be obtained by themselves. I'd give someone like Sunset Porsche parts a call.
  20. Simple, one of the largest threats to these engines is an IMS bearing failure, which starts by producing significant amounts of a very granular ferrous debris before the bearing itself actually fails and kills the engine. Because the oil system in these engines routes the oil through the oil pump before it goes to the filter, this granular metal wreaks havoc on the oil pump gears, sometimes even totally jamming the pump and shearing off the oil pump drive, ending any oil circulation in what was up to that time still a viable engine. Because the LN magnetic drain plug uses a large and very powerful neodymium magnet, it can collect even small amounts of this debris before it gets circulated and alert the person servicing the car that further investigation is required.
  21. Do you have a recommendation for a magnetic plug?Thanks! We like the LN Engineering unit; very well made with a strong magnet.
  22. Next change, add a magnetic drain plug; cheap insurance and a diagnostic tool all in one.
  23. I checked the cam deviation values. Both are steady at 0 degrees. With that being the situation, most likely it is not the IMS bearing. To find the source, you are going to need to do some digging. Have you pulled the sump cover off yet?
  24. There are a multitude of potential ferrous sources in these engines, but I would pull the sum cover and also check the cam deviation values as well.
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