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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    I too cringe at the prospect of lifting the car by the engine, the jacking points are there for a reason.............
  2. JFP in PA
    Ideally, the engine should have heat in it, but from a practical stand point, with the amount time required to get the car ready to do a leak down, it will be warm at best.
  3. JFP in PA
    Thanks JFP. Are you an experienced tech? Just trying to get a feel for tech experience. I am the owner of an independent shop.
  4. JFP in PA
    Knowing what this job takes, I would ask them to reaffirm their quote and pricing so they can't come back on you later. On the Turbo, there is simply too much stuff in the way to get this done in 1.5 hours.........
  5. JFP in PA
    Loren is correct, plus they are a common flea bay and swap meet item as well. There are also a couple of fabricators that make smaller diameter units the they claim will clear the aero kits, but I have not actually tried them.
  6. JFP in PA
    The time quote is a fair estimate, depending upon which model the car; if yours is a Turbo, four hours is correct.
  7. JFP in PA
    It is not really that tough, but it is located in very tight confines, particularly with a Tiptronic gearbox.
  8. JFP in PA
    Actually, some of us do know you, and are quite familiar with what happened to your thread on the 986 Forum, and why it happened. Stay within the published RennTech.org forum guidelines and you will not have a problem here, but a similar thread here will probably net you the same results.............
  9. JFP in PA
    "Faster than a speeding bullet"............well, at least some of the time anyway :eek:
  10. JFP in PA
    From the codes and the noise, it sounds like you have a vacuum leak; usual suspects are the AOS, oil filler line, etc. I would start with the AOS unit as they are known culprits. The P0740 is a Tiptronic issue and should not be related to the other codes
  11. JFP in PA
    LN Engineering has engaged a professional fulfillment firm to handle all their orders.
  12. JFP in PA
    I would also be cautious and follow LN's instructions on what to put on the bottom of the nut (LocTite 574) and the center bolt threads (Loctite "green" wicking) to prevent oil seepage.
  13. JFP in PA
    Be careful about which lights you use for daytime running lights; there are some limits which lamps can be used and which cannot (e.g.: parking or low beam head lamps are OK), so check before doing the wiring only to find the vehicle will not pass inspection.
  14. JFP in PA
    Odds and evens - same torque :huh: ??There is only one lug torque spec value................96 ft. lb.
  15. JFP in PA
    The jack points are designed to accept a pad with a key way that locks into the car to keep the car from moving, your bar would need to lock into these key ways and still not be so low to the floor that a jack could get under it:
  16. JFP in PA
    Unless you want to go through the entire cam timing exercise, which requires some additional tooling, not really. Are you absolutely sure you have rotated the eninge (clockwise only) to TDC before locking it down at the crank?
  17. JFP in PA
    All should be at the same value.
  18. JFP in PA
    Before you started this adventure, did you check the cam deviation values with either a PIWIS or Durametric software to see where the cams are to begin with? The tools should not need any "trimming" to work correctly.
  19. JFP in PA
    Low air pressure (less than 20 PSIG) would not cause an issue, but when you tell people that, immediately the "If one is good, and two is better; then forty seven has to be just right" principal takes over and the next thing you know someone is cranking up their compressor to put 100 PSIG in the system with disastrous results. These systems where designed to operate at around 18-19 PSIG, no more. Realistically, you are never going to get more than about 85-90% of the coolant out of the car without taking the entire car apart; some of it just gets hung up in odd places and cannot be pushed or sucked out. So to prevent problems, just let gravity do the job for you; it is about as good as it gets. Premixed (with distilled water) coolant will live a long time if stored in a closed and clean container. If you think about it, stored on the shelf, it is actually better off than the stuff in your engine (no heat cycles, no metal ions, no contamination, etc.).
  20. JFP in PA
    Get the car scanned, either Durametric or PIWIS, that will tell you if there are any related codes, and the system can also check and reset any service reminders as well.
  21. JFP in PA
    Not really, these cars have cats that are susceptible to vibration and often die early on cars with a lot of track time on them or hard use. A comparison scan of the before an after sensors will show the cat's condition.
  22. JFP in PA
    That is the correct sensor; Bank 1 is cylinders 1 to 3. Which is on the left side 996. The code is the sensor after the cat (muffler side). As the sensor is new, it should not be showing signs of aging, which is what the code is for. I would ask the following: Who's sensor is it (aftermarket or OEM)? Does it have a plug on it like the OEM sensor would, or is it "hardwired"? I would also suggest unplugging the sensor and cleaning the plug ends (if they are still there) with contact cleaner, reconnecting the sensor and clearing the code to see if comes back. In addition, I would get the car scanned (Durametric software is fine)to get a record of how the O2 sensors before and after the cat are responding, you may have an early indication of TWC cat failure. A good TWC would scan entirely different than a one that is failing:
  23. JFP in PA
    Which sensor was replaced as the code is specific to a sensor location.
  24. JFP in PA
    Couple currently on flea bay for $25 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-GENUINE-PORSCHE-911-997-CARRERA-TURBO-WINDSHIELD-WASHER-SPRAY-NOZZLE-/370612860856)
  25. JFP in PA
    Logray is correct, but while you do not need to drain the entire system, if the mix in the car is more than a couple years old, I would dump it all and refresh the system. While called "lifetime" coolant, the OEM coolant (which is very good) does eventually break down and need replacing.
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