JFP in PA

Glad to hear you got it worked out. Sometimes you just have to bit the bullet for the expensive parts of these cars.

We have had excellent performance and life from Denso Iridium's IXU22 in the Cayenne Turbo.

Changing the oil is not necessary unless intermix has occurred. That would be obvious, as the oil (or coolant) would have a “hot chocolate like appearance due to the formation of an oil/water emulsion. If the oil (and coolant) is clear and clean, you are fine.

To my knowledge, there are no published diagnostics for this module other than through the Durametric system or the PIWIS, so I am not sure you will get anywhere testing inputs and outputs as there are alot of CAN bus communications involved........... On the Kessy system, you have 3 interior antennas, and 6 exterior antennas. All four door handles have an antenna in them, and the rear bumper has two. Communication path for Keyless Entry - Opening VehicleTouching the door handle (proximity sensor) leads to sending a key query signal in the area of the vehcleProximity sensor in door handle detects a hand touching it and sends a wake-up signal on the line between the door handle and the Kessy/Immobilzer control unit. Kessy activates a search for a valid key in the area via the integrated antenna in the door handle. The carrier signal is a 125 KHz field that is brodcast by the door handle antenna. The search signal is modulated on this signal. The search takes place only on the side of the vehicle that the wake-up-signal was triggerd on.The key transmitter answers the query from the Kessy using the alarm radio frequencythe key receives the 125KHz transmitted, evaluates the signal and sends a corresponding answer using the alarm remote frequency (315 MHz, USA market) A normal 125KHz signal without the correct requesting vehicle information will not wake up the key; this reduces the quiescent current draw of the key.The vehicle receives the alarm remote key signal through the alarm remote antenna in the rear spoiler.The signal sent by the key received and evaluated by the kessy through the alarm remote antenna in the rear spoiler. The answer from the key contains a vehicle specific data so that only keys assigned to the vehicles kessy control module are woken up and this after the vehicle implemented wake up.The Kessy evaluates the key data and commands the central locking system to unlock via the rear control module.The communication between the kessey and the Rear control unit is via the comfort CAN bus.Communication path for Keyless Entry- Starting VehicleConfrimation within the igniton switch starts the search for a key within the vehicleWhen the ignition key is inserted in the ignition switch and rotated the "S" circuit is actuated and the switch position is detected (KL15, KL50,) This initiates a search for a transponder in the interior of the vehicle. The search takes place at the same time on the outside of the vehicle by the interior antennas.The key answers the control midule request on the alarm remote radio frequencyThe key receives the 125KHz signal, evaluates this and sends an appropriate response via the alarm remote frequency 315 MHz.The vehicle receives the signal sent by the Kessy and releases the steering lock and enables starting in the DME and KESSY.The signal sent by the key is received by the kessy and evaluated. If the key is confirmed as assigned to the vehicle the starter operation is allowed and DME enable signal (via CAN) is sent. The starter engages and the engine starts.Communication path for keyless entry-Leaving VehicleOperation of the door handle micro switch leads to a key query being sent to the outside area of the vehicleThe micro switch is hardwired to the door control module and the door opening signal is sent to the kessy via the Comfort CAN. The kessy initiates a search for a valid key in the exterior area of the vehicle via the antennas that are intergrated in the door handles.The kessy evaluated the key data and controls the central locking system via the rear control module. The key data is evaluated in the kessy and then a command to lock the vehicle and actuate the alarm function is sent via the Comfort CAN. See? All very simple...............

Kind of difficult to diagnose this, I think you need either the Durametric software or a PIWIS scan for more detail.................

Welcome aboard! :welcome: Try 0464

Good point Mike, I had not noticed that the OP did not post fuel pressure and delivery data, so I would at least check that before doing anything. And if I found no fuel pressure during a check, I would bridge the terminals on the fuel pump relay to force the pump to run and check it again to be sure it is not something else like the relay or the CPS, which causes the DME to shut the fuel pump off when the crank position sensor dies

Sometimes spending a few extra bucks can eliminate having to do a nasty job twice............. :jump:

But is it an OEM quality pump (VDO), or a Chinese knock off? We have changed out several short life aftermarket pumps that did not make the grade…………..

They probably already were bad; the multiple moisture exposures just pointed that fact out. We often find coil packs with small cracks and often electrical tacking marks as well, so this is nothing unusual.

Never said they were cheap. Shop around, but I think you will find Sunset to be competitive.

Year and model?

Except for physical damage, these hoses are pretty long lived; we have a couple customers with over 100K and 200K miles on the factory units. If they look bad, have soft spots or blisters, change them out; but as others have noted there are a lot of hoses in these cars, and you basically need to disassemble the car to get at them all.

I don't understand where he is getting his data from, but unless physically damaged in some way, they are pretty long lived.....

Seems a bit low, I would strongly recommend getting the battery load tested.

Try 9133

Way too low, should be around 14V.

If you are going use anything on the input splines and throw out bearing collar, a light coating of white lithium grease will do the trick.

If the dust collected around the IMS flange is dry, just clean it off and leave the flange alone. If that is all the crud built up in 58K miles, the IMS seals are doing OK.

Quite often,the occasional MIL for both ABS and PSM turn out to be voltage related (weak battery and/or alternator). Get your battery load tested and have the alternator checked as well.

Both LN Engineering and Jake Raby have moved away from direct support of the aftermarket (read DIY), primarily due to the simple fact that even though they supplied fully detailed instructions and specialized tooling, there are simply too many ways to screw up and only one way to do this correctly. And as nature always sides with the hidden flaw, which is this case tends to be those that either cannot, or will not, read and follow directions; they found themselves spending 90% of their time trying to unravel 10% of the IMS installs that went south. So they now tend to be less forth coming on information. Get the correct instructions, read them, and follow them. To do otherwise may be to dig yourself a hole that maybe difficult to get out of…………..

If you intend to remove the IMS cover flange, you need to prep the engine as though you were going to remove the bearing itself (crank locked at TDC, cams locked, tensioners removed, etc.). If you do not do this and remove the cover flange, the shaft will be pulled to one side and you will never get the flange back on again. If the cover flange shows no signs of leakage, I'd leave it alone.

Believe me; they will feel a whole lot different when the metal impeller starts boring a hole in the engine cases, filling the cooling system with fine metal filings that are nearly impossible to get out of the system. Even if you could clean up the mess, and the cases aren’t totally destroyed, the new water pump will not be able to move the coolant effectively due to the damage (the gap behind the impeller is now too large), and the car will want to run hotter than it already does. It is not about OEM vs. aftermarket, but it is about not killing things unnecessarily…….

Then take a look a the Durametric software for Porsche, it won't run off a phone, but it is by far the best sofware available for a Porsche short of the PIWIS system.

Some of the 996's suffered from out of round openings in the case where the RMS sits (Porsche actually developed a tool to check the cases to see if the opening is round or not), which will continue to leak oil after replacing the RMS. Unfortunately, when you find a car with this problem, the out of round condition cannot be fixed, the engine has to be replaced. That said, one of the biggest problems with the new PTFE RMS seal is that people do not know how to correctly install them; they are very susceptible to leaks from something as small as a finger print getting on them, and they should not be installed with any type of sealer (the sealer actually works against the new seal and causes it to leak). There was a very detailed article on the new seal, installation problems and failure causes in "Excellence" magazine a year or two back. It also showed how to test the case opening and examples of cases that will never seal. Black smoke is ususally a sign of an over rich mixture, but it is usually not a fatal problem and would also usually throw codes as well.