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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I would not be hooking a high amperage battery to do this, beside being dangerous, it is totally unnecessary. There are cheap aftermarket "dongles" that plug into the lighter socket and will maintain the settings using a common 9V household battery (low amperage) that sell for less than $10. Some of the better battery maintainers, notably Ctek, have a setting to do the same thing using the maintainer.
  2. If all you are going to do is change the level sensor, no, you do not need to drain it..............
  3. Depending upon your year and model, you may not have to drain anything to change the level sensor (it is on the outside of the tank, yellow arrow):
  4. The Denso IK20 is correct, as is the Bosch part number.
  5. Good catch, I was thinking of the Boxster engine which changed later........................... :eek:
  6. Sounds like you are fine. A normal AOS gives you a vacuum level of about 5 inches of water, basically the slight suction you felt. When they fail, the vacuum level jumps to several times that level, making the cap nearly impossible to get off.
  7. #1. Beru and Bosch are pretty much the default OEM style plugs. That said, we have used (with great success) NGK and Denso Iridiums. #2 Only replace the tubes is they are cracked and/or leaking. #3 Inpsect the coils for signs of cracking or other issues, but do not replace them unless they need to be changed out. #4 Always a "hot button" item; yes, use anti seize, but do so sparingly. We use anti seize on any dissimilar metal threaded fasteners that do not require thread locking compounds in these cars. Porsche used to recomend against anti seized because the types used in Europe caused increased electrical resistance, the the metalic paste types used here are conductive.
  8. Anytime; glad you got back to it.
  9. The Durametric is not going to provide definitive data indicating that the AOS is on the way out; you best bet is to try and remove the oil filler cap while idling. If the cap comes off with little effort, the AOS is fine; but if it takes a lot of force to remove it due to high case vacuum, the AOS is toast.
  10. You will be pleased with the Durametric system; but as a word of caution, it is incredibly complex and the ops manual is very basic, so you will need to spend some time playing with it to really appreciate everything it is capable of. There are also a lot of users here and on other forums that may be able to help you if you encounter any problems or questions.
  11. Yes, the Durametric can put the lights through their movement paces, but it can also read the DME stored codes resulting from problems on factory installed Lits.
  12. The Durametric system is an excellent Porsche specific diagnostics tool. You can ususally find a used one with one or more VIN's still left open at reasonable prices. One thing to be aware of, there are some notable differences between the "Pro" and "Enthusiast" versions of the software (you can find more info on the differences on their website) other than the fact that the Pro system can be used on as many cars as you want.
  13. We like to buff the surfaces of both mating areas with a Scotch Brite pad to make sure they are both clean and without any burrs. You may want to also check each mating surface with a good straight edge while they are apart. To date, with proper cleaning, buffing and a new metal gasket, and properly torqued, we have not had to use any sealant on these surfaces, which is as it should be
  14. Actually, the diagnostics tell you quite a bit, and much more than "something is wrong". They also can pin point specific issues (e.g.: control module, suspension sensors, etc.), as well as listing multiple issues when they occur. Unfortunately, too many people do not understand what the diagnostic tool is telling you, so they go off in a completely wrong direction rather than trying to learn from what the data is telling them. So those questionable "couple hundred dollars" save customers hours of otherwise wasted billable time when sorting out a problem car as it provides the best troubleshooting info available, especially in the case of multiple faults. In your case, it would have immediately spotted that something was unplugged.
  15. First of all, factory installed Lits have a neat diagnostics function that allows a good diagnostics tool like the PIWIS or Durametric software can not only read problems, but can "exercise" the lights so that you can evaluate their functions. While it sounds like you may have one lamp assembly off its gimble point (which is why the tool does not fit correctly), I would be looking at seeing what is wrong and/or reseating the lamp before playing with adjustments.
  16. Please do not "double post", it is unnecessary and violates board rules.
  17. Inhaling a large amount of oil will make any car run rough for a period of time, that is nothing unusual. But inhaling the oil should have no effect on the sensors or codes you are seeing now, they are an unrelated and separate issue. And as the MAF is upstream from where the AOS would dump oil into your intake, it also should not be involved, although it may still be dirty from just accumulated miles. One point on having the crank sensor, or most any other sensor as well, checked out by either a competent independent shop or the dealer is that the diagnostics tools they have should be able to evaluate the existing sensor before it is changed. We are advocates for diagnostics ahead of parts changing, something far too many tend to do in reverse, which often leads to spending a lot of money to fix what should have been a simpler and cheaper fix.
  18. Porsche is pretty specific on what lubricants are supposed to be used exclusively in the Tiptronic and manual gear boxes, regardless of what you read on the internet; straying from the recommendations typically leads to some serious issues. I would start by dumping, and flushing the system (remember, the converter holds a large part of the fluid and does not drain munch by gravity) to get as much of the old fluid out as possible.
  19. A word of caution about the impact of fuel level on the fuel pumps in these cars: They are cooled by the fuel that surrounds the pump, so running the car low on fuel can cause the pump to overheat and suffer a premature failure.
  20. No, you need to connect a pressure gauge to the test port on the fuel rail. I would also strongly suggest scanning the car with a Porsche specific system (PIWIS, PST II, Durametric system).
  21. If the battery disconnect were to "reset something", there should be a code stored in the system.What fuel pressure are you seeing at idle?
  22. I seriously doubt it, these sensors are not in the exhaust stream.
  23. Rather hard to say without knowing what they found, or what repairs are actually needed. An all in IMS refit (with a new clutch) alone should be in the $2-3K range by itself.
  24. It is hard to say if the sender needs to be replaced with out actually seeing the damage, but if everything is working OK I would be a bit suspicious of changing it without a sound reason.
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