JFP in PA

There are no "overflows" on these engines, the oil system is sealed because it operates under a slight vacuum (around 5" of water). It also does not take much oil to make one Hell of a mess. Suggest you need to clean off the engine so you can look for where the leak(s) are coming from. Could be the AOS, the oil fill tube, or any number of other places where actuators or sensors come out of the system.

The 2.5L M96 were know for weak cylinder walls, particularly near the bottom (hence D-chunking). We are not fans of taking any M96/97 above atmospheric for a variety of reasons, and the 2.5L least of all.

Glad you got it sorted, now go enjoy both your lady and all that HP under your right foot.........................

Yes, all M96/97 engines are similar and are susceptible to the same issues, some more than others.

Quite often, the voltage regulator is the issue but fortunately can be changed out as a less than $50 DIY. Car should be showing around 14V at idle, much less than that is an indication that either the regulator or the alternator itself is on the way out. You can usually get the alternator tested for free at auto parts stores.

Another option is to call Gbox and discuss your exact problem(s); the $4,500 gearbox probably needed a lot of work, yours may not. And you should not be focusing on if a repair is recoverable at sale, they often never are; but you also need to recognize the potential reduction in value a bad transmission will have at sale time. If we get a car in for PPI with wonky gear box, we automatically assume the potential "pull and repair" cost as a "deduct" from the asking price........

Depends upon what they find when they examine the innards of the transmission; recent overhaul on a six speed out of a Turbo ran $4,500, but the gear box was right when it was finished.

A lot of people use the "Wal-Mart alternative"; it is just a 35% urea mixture. The easiest way to fill the tank is with the correct bottle, but then that has to be filled from the larger container.

Don't know about that; I've driven a couple of Gbox fully rebuilt transmissions, and they 1-2 shifted fine, cold or warmed up. Granted, not cheap; but I would bet it would be less than the cost of going to a five speed, not including the hit the price of the car would take.

There is only one way, the six converter bolts are removed through the starter opening after removing the starter. They are positioned in three sets of two each evenly around the flywheel. You will also need special tool 9595, which is a 5/16 rod with a knob on the end that is inserted into bell housing and retains the converter with the transmission (keeps it from falling out while removing the trans). This is covered in detail, with diagrams, in the Bentley 996 manual, a worthwhile investment.

AdBlue is supposed to refilled about every 10K miles, or when the dash warning indicates you are running low. Nothing needs to be reset, the system is totally automatic.

There are some "knock-offs" running around at a variety of prices, some are clones of older versions of the software, some are not even a Porsche system (some are even older versions of the Durametric software). Problem remains that even one based on the older PIWIS software is both out of date and cannot be updated with the latest version of the software when Porsche adds new stuff, like the ability to turn off the clutch oil cooling system when servicing the PDK. You have to be very careful when spending thousands to buy something from a Chinese website that Porsche has already told you they will not sell you; you could end up with something questionable and of very limited utility, and with no recourse to get your money back.

Half shafts are different as well, as are the rear hubs, carriers, and ebrake assemblies.

I'm a bit of a "belt and suspenders" person, so I would vote to take a pass on the track time until the car is correct. Perhaps others might want to chime in on this................

Time flys when you are having fun...............

I'm pretty sure it has to be monitored at all times Mike, we have had more than one car towed in because the owner thought it had a dead fuel pump that turned out to be a bad CPS. Normally, when the CPS goes, you get hard starting, particularly when hot; but not always. The CPS is also the DME's reference for ignition timing (it has to know exactly where the engine is in its rotation cycle in order to pick the correct moment to fire the plugs in relation to that rotation). It is also the baseline reference for cam deviation values. If the OP has a loose, pinched, or frayed wire carrying the CPS signal to the DME (remember, the car has just been apart), all Hell can break loose for the DME......

Have you actually watched the fuel pressure during one of the cranks but won't start sessions? Along with providing the DME with the crank position data, if the DME looses the CPS signal, it will shut the fuel pump off because it thinks the engine is not turning. It would be very interesting to see the CPS signal via a pin out box at the DME because if there is any interruption of the signal (pinched or frayed wire, etc.) the DME would promptly shut the fuel supply off...............

If you are trying to test it, the Durametric software or a PIWIS/PST II can activate it; otherwise Loren is correct, the DME will run the fan if and when needed.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.Actually the ctek has circuits to potect itself from overloading in supply mode. Way smarter than I thought. From the owner manual" In this mode, MULTI US 7002 can also be used as a power generation unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. If the selected current exceeds 7A, the output voltage will drop as the load increases. The charger has electronic overload protection in this mode, which is activated if the charge is so great that the output voltage from the charger falls below around 9V and the current ís around 7A. In the event of an overload, the charger goes into error mode (lamp 0). Supply mode is indicated with lamp D and lamp 5."Is there also a physical fuse inside? I would expect so for last line of defence....maybe i will open up mine and check. The owner manual doesnt mention any fuse. There is a fuse (3 amp if memory serves) in the line going to the load, it is not in the box itself (the box like bump in the wires): Just to satisfy my own curiosity to see what's inside the US7002 ctek, I opened it up. There is a min-blade 30A fuse soldered in. I figured that they also had some internal protection as well as the external fuses, CTEK is definitely one of the better maintainers out there.

The picture from JFP post #80 shows "The Hook" from Power probe inc (around $400.00) but I think the Power probe III can do the job and it is around $100.00 but I think it is not reading amperage. Very few testers can measure amperage because the internals in the meter have to be beefed up to handle the current.

Because of the way they are set up, one probe can do a lot of functions, which lets one tech get a lot more accomplished unaided. Power Probe is just one brand, shop around for one that had the best set of features, or happens to be on sale.

Most inexpensive multimeters are not designed to handle much of a current load (this is when the current load is passing thru the meter itself), and often have an internal fuse rated at less than 1 amp to protect the meter from being burnt by too much amperage. For future reference, say a birthday or father's day gift, get yourself something like this Power Probe tester: These things cannot only test circuits for continuity and resistance, then can also deliver 12V power to run something like a fan.

Most inexpensive multimeters are not designed to handle much of a current load (this is when the current load is passing thru the meter itself), and often have an internal fuse rated at less than 1 amp to protect the meter from being burnt by too much amperage.

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.Actually the ctek has circuits to potect itself from overloading in supply mode. Way smarter than I thought. From the owner manual" In this mode, MULTI US 7002 can also be used as a power generation unit for operating equipment that requires 13.6V and a maximum of 7A. If the selected current exceeds 7A, the output voltage will drop as the load increases. The charger has electronic overload protection in this mode, which is activated if the charge is so great that the output voltage from the charger falls below around 9V and the current ís around 7A. In the event of an overload, the charger goes into error mode (lamp 0). Supply mode is indicated with lamp D and lamp 5."Is there also a physical fuse inside? I would expect so for last line of defence....maybe i will open up mine and check. The owner manual doesnt mention any fuse. There is a fuse (3 amp if memory serves) in the line going to the load, it is not in the box itself (the box like bump in the wires):

Very good point Ahsai, thanks for sharing your knowledge.You're welcome. It's been fun following this thread :)Btw to the OP, I think it would still be worthwhile to put a fuse in series with the fan and power it up directly from the battery/ctek. If the fuse blows, we can be sure it's the fan. All it costs is a fuse, no need to get any clamp meter. DO NOT use the CTEK for this, its has only low current capabilities for maintaining memory settings trying to run a 15 amp circuit with it will blow the fuse in the CTEK unit........JFP, thanks for catching that. I didn't realize we're talking about 15A since that fan looks puny to me. Ctek can supply up to 7A in supply mode though for future reference. Use the car battery with a 15A fuse in series then.I just measured my fan (996 c2) using a 12v security backup battey. It draws ~6A initially for a split second then goes to 3.5A at steady state. A lot of people make that expensive mistake, often damaging the CTEK before the fuse lets go.