JFP in PA

Anywhere but from Porsche (their tool pricing is outrageous); you will need to search online Porsche specialty tool houses like Samstag and others for the best deal.

Items # 4 & 6, used to drive in the shims and seal:

Get yourself a Motive Power pressure bleeder and the correct adaptors for both cars, and it will be a simple project both now and in the future.

Interestingly, when I traced the 60-01801 NC part number, it came back as fitting the 3.2L Cayenne, not the turbo on some sites, but fitting the turbo on others. If you have to do any modifications to the wiring or connectors, I still think you have the wrong compressor as it should drop right in without modification. I also noted several dissatisfied customer reviews on some sites complaining that they had difficulties finding the correct model (there are apparently several) to directly fit into their cars. This may be a part that requires cross referencing your VIN to get the correct unit.

Normal maintenance practice is to flush out your entire hydraulic system (brakes and clutch) with new fluid at least every two years to prevent the build up of moisture which will corrode some pretty expensive bits in the ABS and PSM systems. This process both replaces all the fluid and bleeds the system at the same time. DIY "how to" have been written up more than once, so do a search for the details of what you will need and how it is done; it is a simple and inexpensive but very necessary maintenance practice.

Yes, a US car would be configured to the EPA's OBD II. To turn off the second set of sensors, you would change it to RoW. You cannot change the emissions program without access to a PIWIS or PST II unit, nothing else will reprogram the car to RoW configurations.

It sounds like that is not the correct compressor, which should be a direct drop in replacement. I would not be modifying anything to try and make it work. Like I said, the compressor should be a drop in, plug and play replacement; with absolutely no modifications. We do this all the time, the supplier should have given you the correct unit. If you start modifying it, and it still does not work correctly, I rather doubt those that sold it to you will take it back.

It sounds like that is not the correct compressor, which should be a direct drop in replacement.

Not sure what that is about, the program is definitely offered in the US. Try contacting their technical support staff at techinfo@porschecars.com about your problem, I'm sure they will get it sorted for you.

Early risers...........at least over here!

First of all, welcome :welcome: No question is too small or stupid, it is just a question seeking an answer. You will find a lot of information on the forum, so be sure to put the search function to good use as many questions may already have been addressed in detail. You will also find DIY turtorials and tools tabs at the top of the page where a lot of good information is archived.

Thanks for the reply. That's great news. Then perhaps their suggestion will work. The warranty company also wanted verification that the dealer contacted "Porsche Technical Support" to consult them / open a case regarding this issue. Is that a normal thing for the techs to do? I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow and see if I can find out what the warranty company is talking about. Aftermarket warranty companies thow all sorts of road blocks into the process, which is why a lot of shops do not like them.

Fault codes are stored until either cleared by a tech or until the DME feels that the problem has been solved or repaired, which is often quite a bit of driving (several start, warm up, run at highway speed, shut off, and cool down cycles at a minimum).

LN has a specific kit for the Cayenne Turbo only, not for the 996TT, which is why I mentioned I was assuming he had the correct adaptor in my original post as Loren is correct on the fitment, the turbo cars are different. I have read on another site that someone else makes them for the turbos, Automotion if memory serves.

Porsche has stopped printing both the service manuals and wiring diagrams after 2004-2005, they are only available by subscription or by page purchase from Porsche website called Porsche Integrated Workshop Information System - Technical Service Information: http://www.renntech.org/forums/links/goto/18-porsche-piwis-tsi/

The ones we use are by LN Engineering: http://www.lnengineering.com/spinonfilteradapter.html Note the different styles for the model years and turbo (Cayenne)/non turbo applications. Another great product from them are their magnetic oil plugs which have a powerful neodymium magnet that will pick up any ferrous debris from the oil. They also sell kits that include everything you will need; filter, adaptor, and the magnetic drain plugs with washers as well.

There is nothing wrong with a spin on filter, and in fact, there are many things about it that are better than most of the cartridge OEM style filters. First, I will assume you have the correct one for the Metzger engine (the one for the M96/97 engine 996 is different). The spin on filter can have as much as 30% smaller pore diameters than the OEM cartridge and provides better filtration than the OEM filters, and because it is metal end capped, there is no chance of the end caps coming loose as OEM glued caps sometimes do, which allows unfiltered oil to circulate. Your choice of filter media is much wider with spin on filters as they can be obtained with treated paper or totally synthetic filter media, which is not an option with OEM style filter. The spin on is "full flow", meaning the oil is filtered 100% of the time (no by-pass to stick open and allow unfiltered oil to circulate). Spin on filters will not crack like the plastic OEM filter housing, although this is more important to the M96/97 engines where the filter is down low under the car and can be hit by debris thrown off the tires or bouncing up from the road surface. A tool is available from multiple sources to cut open the metal housing of the spin on for filter media examination as well. We have used spin on filters on many of our customer's cars for years, never had a problem with any of them.

As a shop, we worry more about reading and resetting codes, system activation functions, and other service related issues. The Durametric is pretty good in those areas. Coding or programing is not something that we encounter frequently, so it is not that much of a downside issue. The Durametric is not perfect, and in fact may only be 75-85% as capable as the current OEM PIWIS system, but many of the so called "problems" you see people ranting about on the web are more often than not operator related, and many can be traced back directly to Porsche. Durametric cannot directly copy the functions of the PIWIS system, Porsche owns and closely protects those rights. So they are left to find a work around to get to the same end result in order to avoid Porsche's legal rath. Add in Porsche's penchant for throwing curves at you (some cars have DME's that are totally different from their normal architecture and are even from another supplier; Porsche knows all about it, Durametric has to figure out why a certain car does not communicate correctly while others of the same model year are fine) and problems are going to crop up. Porsche also seems to not totally respect their own demarcation lines on things like which version of the DME, ABS, or PSM software should be in the car because of the model year, and a vehicle that should have a 7.2 DME really has a 7.8. Try and scan the car as the 7.2 it should be, and you get weird or no results; reset the software to 7.8 and everything is fine. Now stop for a moment and think about what can go wrong when someone with little or even no diagnostic experience tries to asses a problem. Even the mighty PIWIS is not immune to problems, I know of several incidents where Porsche techs could not communicate with the cars, and ended up calling around to independent shops for ideas. I have also heard that there are "tricks" to getting the PIWIS to work on some cars that the techs pass around amongst themselves as well. We seriously looked at acquiring a legitimate PIWIS unit, but the combination of the outrageous cost structure, the fact that Porsche burned early lessors of the first PIWIS when they released the new system, and the fact that while the lease documentation clearly states that systems leased by "outside entities" (read non dealers) will have "certain functions disabled", you cannot get a straight answer as to what is left out of the system before you plunk down nearly twenty grand a year, we deicided that the shop is both creative and intuitive enough to run with the Durametric Pro system.

You should also be support firms like Durametric software who continue to constantly improve an already excellent package that allows both "backyard" mechanics and commercial shops to completely avoid the OEM system.

The constraint of trade was class action, and it still failed......twice.

Good start, but you should get a PPI by someone with a lot of history with these cars and that has either a PIWIS or Durametric system to scan its history for over revs, etc. The money a proper PPI costs is a very wise investment.

Yes, a failing AC line or component can make a fairly loud sound when it vents off the gas. Have the AC system tested for operating pressures, bet you find yours is zero..........

There already has been more than one "constraint of trade" action at the Federal level claiming that all of the OEM's have something like this only to prevent independent shops from competing with the dealerships; but each time the OEM's lawyers got it thrown out.

Looks like a cheap after market gasket. Unless it leaks, I'd leave it alone. While you should dump at least 1 qt. of fluid into the converter before installing it on to the trans, don't fill the trans itself until it is in the car, and then do it according to the OEM refill technique.

Before you go to pull the heads, which means pulling the engine, check the plugs, leak down the engine, and bore scope it; you need to know what you are dealing with before you try and start fixing things.