JFP in PA

Oh boy....... The Tip and differential use totally different types of lubricants, the TIp uses an ATF like product, while the diff should have a 75W-90 gear oil in it. If he really put the same thing in both, I surprised it works, much less makes noise.............. (*&^%^!! What's the right fluid for the Tip? Differential fluid should be Delvac 75w-90 then? The Tip calls for ESSO ATF LT 71141 or its equivalent; the 75W-90 should be fine in the diff.

Oh boy....... The Tip and differential use totally different types of lubricants, the TIp uses an ATF like product, while the diff should have a 75W-90 gear oil in it. If he really put the same thing in both, I surprised it works, much less makes noise..............

The tank "vents" to the EVAP system, it is a closed loop arrangement that captures vapors and then burns them in the engine. Do a search, it is a common headache area for vacuum leaks. By-passing it is going to be a problem as the DME uses sensors to make sure it is functional, and they source of your codes. Disconnecting it is going to leave the car in permanent code conditon, so it may fail inspection (It is required for state and fed emissions regs in the US and many other countries).

The temp sensors are accurate within a range of +/- a few degrees, and sometimes change a bit with age. The fans are triggered by the DME, so there also can be some variance there. What you are seeing is normal behavior,

The two vents serve different purposes on a Boxster, one is an air intake, the other is an engine compartment heat vent with a fan in it that blows air out when the engine bay reaches certain temps.

Well, you can always jump for a PIWIS...........................

Some people have used non OEM gear oil and say they have not had problems; unfortunately, many that tried this ended up with multiple problems (noise, hard sifting, etc.). As soon as the non OEM fluid was drained and replaced with Porsche's product (which is fully synthetic and made to their unique specification), the problems all disappeared. We only use the OEM product, which we buy from Porsche, and have never had an issue with it. Some time back, I wrote to several of the larger oil manufacture's concerning substitutes, and the response were eye opening: The larger and more credible firms replied that the Porsche spec product is unusual, and they did not have a match for it. The smaller firms all claimed they had suitable products; only problem was they made the gear oils that caused the problems in my customer's cars that we had to drain out and replace. As Loren stated, I would highly recommend only using the Porsche gear oil. At the end of the day, it is your car and you can use what you please, but there is only one product that we use.

On an 2006 car, it was an option, so it will take more than just activation; along with the tire sensors, you are going to need the receiver module which can be pricey. You may want to also look at aftermarket systems, which are considerably cheaper.

Launch X431 is not a Porsche specific system, so I am not at all surprised it cannot read the ABS system, you need a PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system, period.

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.1.) okay trying to remove air bubbles out by bleeding and cleaning radiator. Hopefully it solves the overheating problem2.) durametric cant seem to scan codes for ABS and Tc off. What could be the problem?3.) central lock limit not reached or something similar. What to do next?Thanks again!! Be sure to get all the air out, best way is to pull a vacuum on the system. Durametric should be able to see the ABS and TC systems unless either there is a problem with the version of the Durametric software, or the ABS system controller is disconnected or non functional. I'd check the controller to make sure the connectors are tight first. One of your door lock's switches is not reaching the lock position. Could be it needs its electrical connection seated, or the switch unit in the door may need to be replaced. 1.) Ok, cleaning radiator now, crazy dirty. I am hoping it is the clogged radiator causing the overheating and not engine problem 2.) The mechanic was using the Launch X431 GDS, and it says it can't connect to the ABS. Where is the ABS System controller by the way? Basically when I start the car, ABS and TC OFF light is not on, then when you run it for 1-2 seconds, it pops up. So I wanna know where the ABS System is cause maybe it is disconnected or something. 3.) Uhm sorry how do you check if the switch is not reaching the position? uhm where is the electrical connection? It actually works when the keys are not plugged in the ignition. Again, Thanks in advance guys! (Oh btw brake lights are all working) Clean out the radiators and see where your engine temps are. You need to use a Porsche specific system, Durametric, PST II, or PIWIS only. The switch is inside the door by the lock mechanism.

The Metzger lump is by far one of the best designs they produced, both powerful and durable. The glued in water connections is just one of those "bad ideas" that all OEM's are prone to on occasion when trying to keep costs down.

Have someone stand behind your car and see if your brake lights are working. A bad brake light switch can cause both lights to come on. Good catch.................

Unfortunately, yes. There are only a few pathways for oil to enter the coolant on the 996; the oil cooler and AOS are common. If that did not address the issue, your next step should be to have the coolant system pressure tested, looking for signs of leakage. I would also pull all the spark plugs, looking for one or more that seem unusually clean. If you find that, I would either bore scope and/or run a leak down on those cylinders, looking for signs of a cracked head.

An occasional puff is a normal "feature" of the flat six engine design. However, if it happens all the time, it could be the start of the AOS going out.

There's more than 3 pipes -- there are 3 for the water pump housing alone.... Should be more like 8 pipes. See this thread by jpflip, which is a very good reference on this topic (including all parts with part #s): http://www.6speedonline.com/forums/996-turbo-gt2/267584-coolant-pipe-repair-parts-needed.html Silver_TT is correct, there are eight in total.

We have the round connector because we never know what is going to roll in the door next.

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.1.) okay trying to remove air bubbles out by bleeding and cleaning radiator. Hopefully it solves the overheating problem2.) durametric cant seem to scan codes for ABS and Tc off. What could be the problem?3.) central lock limit not reached or something similar. What to do next?Thanks again!! Be sure to get all the air out, best way is to pull a vacuum on the system. Durametric should be able to see the ABS and TC systems unless either there is a problem with the version of the Durametric software, or the ABS system controller is disconnected or non functional. I'd check the controller to make sure the connectors are tight first. One of your door lock's switches is not reaching the lock position. Could be it needs its electrical connection seated, or the switch unit in the door may need to be replaced.

Considering what happened the first time, most people either go for the pinned (which is also glued) or welded approaches as they both assure the parts will not move as they are mechanically locked in place. Some also remain concerned that even with the pins, eventually the glue line will fail again and you will still have leaks. Going welded or threaded eliminates any possibility of that happening. As you are going to need to drop the engine in any case, may as well do it right and do it once.........

You have the fairly well known problem of the cooling hose fittings coming loose from their mating parts. There are companies that offer solutions ranging from pinning your existing fittings, to welded units that replace them. Either solution requires dropping the engine to get at all the fittings in the car. Kits range from do it your self welding of new connectors: DIY pin systems using bolts: Threaded hose end replacements: A lot of tracks now require one of these fixes before a Turbo or GT car is allow to run.

Running a high dose added in a single tank of fuel quite often cleans up a lot of little issues, and is a common practice at a lot of shops. That said, changing the oil after running out the tank is a good idea.

The answers are yes, and yes.......... The standard cable is about 8 ft., and you can use a USB extension cable rather than jump for their long cable. We like the shorter cable for using a laptop in the car on mobile tests without a big wad of cable in the car, the longer USB extension is used in the shop to connect to our Dell XPS tower. Combination gives you a lot of flexibility. Buy a good quality USB extension cable, there is some really cheap crap running around, and you want something that will wear well and last. The round connector fits 928, 944S2, 968, 964 or 1994-1995 Porsche 993.

Running the Techron every 3-4K won't hurt anything, and will do a lot to clean up problems in the fuel system. If you suspect a fuel pump delivery problem, hook up a fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the rail and check your pressure and delivery rates. In particular, you want to watch for pressure bleed down after the engine is shut off, it should hold around 3 bar ten min. after being shut off. Your fuel filter is part of the tank flange, which also contains the valve that prevents bleed down:

(1). You have air trapped in the cooling system, and you need to get it out before it kills your engine. There are DIY's on how to do this, so do a search. (2) You need to scan the car for codes related to the ABS and TC systems to find out why the MIL is lit. (3) Same goes for the locking system.

Immobilizers are a common item in most Porsche models, and very difficult to circumvent in a theft attempt; you might want to check your owner's manual, or with your dealer, to see if yours is so equipped.

Ah, OK..... I used to be VP of Sales and Marketing for C&D Technologies