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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. When you pull the plug on the bad cylinder, take note of its color and level of carbon build up versus the other plugs, this will help give you a better idea why it is acting up.
  2. That would work, but the overfill port is not very large, is on a slight angle, and has some obstructions just inside it, so pushing a tube it is not ideal.
  3. You are reading too much into this. Yes, the 2002 and later cars require a special hose (9057/1), but when you see one of these up close, you realize it is nothing more than an AC charging hose that depresses the Schrader valve in the fill port, allowing the fluid to flow in. We simply took an old AC hose and put a Motive Power sourced quick disconnect on it so that we could use it instead of the curved fill tube for the earlier cars; A brand new set of three AC hoses cost about $15-20, the Motive fill tool is available from multiple sources, as it the quick disconnect. So, for a few bucks, you have a tool that will fill either early or late Tips. As for temperature control, you really do not need a PIWIS to do this; the trans needs to be below 105F when it is filled, so if it is cool, you just fill it until it comes out the overfill port while the engine is idling. when it does, move the gear selector through the gears, and check level again. Then it is Miller time.................
  4. The CPS will shut off the fuel pump if it goes bad. You might want to set up the Durametric to log data and try running the car until it acts up and see what the system catches.
  5. Walk away. The buyer sets the rules on a PPI, chooses who does it, and sees the results first. They are telling you where to go, what you will be told, and you can't back out. Complete nonsense. On second thought, run away.............
  6. That part should be a threaded plug (item #14) that screws into the end of the shaft; if that is all you need to replace, you should be able to remove it with something like an "easy out" bit.
  7. Chiming in...............I would concur that looks like there is a vacuum leak in the system and it is struggling to try to adapt for it.
  8. When using one of these pin out boxes, you are isolating the entire wire loom and sensors or controllers where they connect to the DME, so you can test the entire circuits that the DME would be seeing. In this way, if the circuits are OK, then the DME is suspect. Usually, it is one of the sensors or the wiring that comes up as the problem. It would, however, be very difficult to replicate what these devices do by testing individual wires and circuits. Porsche usually grounded the DME close to where it is mounted, the exact location varied with year and model somewhat do to space limitations.
  9. I think they did at one time, but I have no idea what they are doing now, as they seem to have dropped a lot of the little used adaptors. Along with the correct DME connector adaptors, you would also need the pin overlay maps to match, which are even harder to find unless you happen to come across someone with one already set up for Porsche. Every once in a while, one will show up on flea bay or at car show sale, but even these are few and far between. That said, I have never seen a 9616 come up for sale.
  10. It may be the beginning of the end for the thermostat, which by-the-by is a "maintenance" item that needs to be changed from time to time, like the water pump. While most tend to wait until it fails (often either stranding them or potentially doing damage to the engine), periodic change out every 5-6 years, or when doing either the water pump or freshening the coolant would be excellent preventative steps. These things never crap out at a convenient time or place, usually choosing something like Christmas Eve at 11:30PM to die.....
  11. The tool (special tool 9616) is a Porsche "Pin out" or "DME break out" box for testing circuits. Porsche's Black Forrest version is about $2K (if you can find one), OTC makes something similar, but equally rare, called the OTC 3226: This allows you to plug into the DME's wiring harness and test individual circuits electrical properties to make sure they are functional. All in, sells for about $1k.
  12. No. Because of the material the tank is made from, and the pressures at which it operates, patching or glue simply will not hold. And, as you would have to remove the tank to patch many of the failure cracks, you would have already done the major work required to install a new one.
  13. I would look closely at the Denso coils, but I would source them somewhere else as Pelican is usually high. I would also check further on the Denso part number as the last time I looked, they did not make one for your engine.
  14. Depends upon what they are doing; a gravity drain fluid change would require 3.5L, a total drain (trans and converter) would be 9L, same as required to fill an new trans.
  15. I stand corrected...................... :blush:
  16. No, it does not program the car's alarm module (you program the car to accept the key, not the other way around). The alarm module also has a finite number of "slots" to accept new keys, once these are used, you are in the market for a new module. I also just rechecked the Durametric matrix, it say "no" to coding on both cars.
  17. Actually, the major components should be cleaned in an ultrasonic tank due to the number of small passages and places for grit to hide.
  18. Fault code 1 Motor circuit, left This fault is stored in the following cases: 1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA (High Beam Adjustment), left, terminals 1,2, 3, 4 2. Servomotor for HBA, left, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty Elimination: Switch off ignition - Pull plug off the control module - Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA - Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms - Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 1, 2, 3, and 4; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms - Check for short circuits between the supply leads. If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA. Also check the plug on the wiring harness side and replace if necessary. I am not an expert in boxster repairs. I did few stuff like maf cleaning, headlamp replacement etc. Do you have any article which provides images on how to work on it. I searched online but couldn't find any. Also can you tell me whats the level of difficulty for this. I have no diagrams to offer as they are copyrighted materials, but the instructions are straightforward, requiring removal of the headlight assembly (you should have a tool in the car's tool kit for that), and a digital multimeter to test the circuits on the headlight.
  19. What type of scanner? You also need to know that no code will clear as long as the problem persist.
  20. You have a vacuum leak, most likely related to the work just done. I start by checking lines and clamps to see if anything is obvious.
  21. Fault code 1 Motor circuit, left This fault is stored in the following cases: 1. Short circuit to ground or open circuit in the circuit between control module and servomotor for HBA (High Beam Adjustment), left, terminals 1,2, 3, 4 2. Servomotor for HBA, left, is faulty 3. The control module is faulty Elimination: Switch off ignition - Pull plug off the control module - Pull plug off the servomotor for HBA - Check for open circuit in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA, terminals 1, 2, 3, 4 Ohmmeter display: < 5 Ohms - Check for short to B+ in the supply leads to the servomotor for HBA Ohmmeter connected to terminals 1, 2, 3, and 4; measure resistance to ground Ohmmeter display: Infinite Ohms - Check for short circuits between the supply leads. If no fault is detected in the wires, replace the servomotor for HBA. Also check the plug on the wiring harness side and replace if necessary.
  22. 1). Yes. 2). Yes. 3 and 3A). The coolant is not that expensive, and while very long life span is possible, you are due for a coolant dump and refill. Use only the OEM coolant (there have been problems with aftermarket brands, do a search for the details) and premix it with distilled water (only) to a 50/50 ratio. 4). Matter of personal preference. 5). The car will need to be in the air, so do it however you feel most comfortable, but do it safely. 6 and 6A). The Uview Airlift tool is indispensable for doing the coolant on these cars; with it, it is a 5 min. project, without it you could be looking at a lot more time and effort. As for selling the tool, these are very popular, but I cannot imagine why you would sell it as it can be used on anything with a cooling system. 7). It is not a difficult job, but it can be time consuming because of the confined space.
  23. Without a proper scan using a Porsche specific system like the Durametric, anything would be a guess.
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