JFP in PA

That was exactly what I was thinking..........

Thoroughly clean both surfaces, then Loctite 5900, used sparingly (very small bead):

6.3.2.5 is the most current version, but as all the newer versions embody all of the features of the earlier ones plus the latest bug fixes and new technical updates, I'm not sure what the benefit of going "retrograde" would be, other than for those that have the older cables which cannot communicate with the newer software (anything later than 5.1.3).

You could be having an intermittent TB servo fault which goes away, along with its code. I have full faith in the Durametric system software reading the correct codes, but it also cannot read what is not there when it is plugged in. That said, I would also ask the Porsche "master mechanic" what codes he saw with the PIWIS that led him to replace the throttle body.

Only if you want five reverse gears and one foward. Boxster and 996 engines are reversed, the Boxster is ahead of the gear box, the 996 is behind it, so they are rotating in oposite directions.

One comment: On any transmission or axle oil change, you should always remove the fill plug before the drain plug. That way, if you cannot get the fill plug out, you are not faced with an empty trans or drive unit and no way to re-fill them.

Before going any further, your original code (P0160) if for an electrical connection fault, not necessarily meaning the sensor itself was bad. Both the sensor and sensor heater wiring should be checked for the correct voltages (0.4-0.5V) and shorts (heater should read >20K Ohm). This could be a wiring issue as much as a sensor problem. P0154 is for a similar issue on the other sensor. Before swapping any more parts, I'd start looking at the wire harness and connectors, and test the sensor and heater circuits for correct readings. Getting the same "connection fault" codes on both sensors is probably not a coincidence.

Don't bet on it; repeated attempts at using the engine coding for IMS type identification have been proven wrong more often than not. This is one of the main reasons LN started charging people for returned bearing kits, too many "guessed" wrong.

You may have to wait until you pull the car apart on this one. 2000-2001 was a transitional period for Porsche, during which they used both components (dual and single row), and unfortunately the use of engine numbers has proven useless in determining which style bearing is in the engine, you simply have to look. From the LN website: "MY00-01 vehicles may need either a dual row or single row Retrofit™ kit, so you must inspect the flange and compare to the photos of the dual row and single row IMS shown above to determine which kit is needed." And for future reference, please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

You may have to wait until you pull the car apart on this one. 2000-2001 was a transitional period for Porsche, during which they used both components (dual and single row), and unfortunately the use of engine numbers has proven useless in determining which style bearing is in the engine, you simply have to look. From the LN website: "MY00-01 vehicles may need either a dual row or single row Retrofit™ kit, so you must inspect the flange and compare to the photos of the dual row and single row IMS shown above to determine which kit is needed." And for future reference, please do not double post, it is against forum rules.

They do that and more; it is not uncommon for the bearing to quietly start to tear itself apart by first pitting the balls and then galling the races, cage, and even the flange without any noticeable change in the engine until the unit totally fails without any warning, causing piston/valve contact and worse. Often, it is only when the worst happens that the owner even notices something is wrong, and when that happens there is often little left usable in the engine:

You are reading too much into this. Yes, the 2002 and later cars require a special hose (9057/1), but when you see one of these up close, you realize it is nothing more than an AC charging hose that depresses the Schrader valve in the fill port, allowing the fluid to flow in. We simply took an old AC hose and put a Motive Power sourced quick disconnect on it so that we could use it instead of the curved fill tube for the earlier cars; A brand new set of three AC hoses cost about $15-20, the Motive fill tool is available from multiple sources, as it the quick disconnect. So, for a few bucks, you have a tool that will fill either early or late Tips. As for temperature control, you really do not need a PIWIS to do this; the trans needs to be below 105F when it is filled, so if it is cool, you just fill it until it comes out the overfill port while the engine is idling. when it does, move the gear selector through the gears, and check level again. Then it is Miller time................. JFP can I double check thiswith you. Your post intrigued me and so I took the cap off the transmission and took my AC hose from my gauges. It doesn't screw on as it is slightly too small. Also do you happen to know what colour the transmission fluid was shipped with a brand new 722.6? I believe the hose we used is for the 134A AC systems, which use a larger fitting. You should also be able to get adaptors to change sizes, like the ones that are commonly used on the fuel test port on the fuel rail; which also uses a similar a Schrader valve system: By the time we usually see the factory fill, it is pretty dark, but it looks to have been a reddish pink color as well.

Low coolant will not cause the car to blow smoke; usually it is a small amount of oil that accumulated in one or more cylinder while the car was sitting, and is not uncommon in these cars. If the smoke persists, that would be something to be concerned about as it could be a an AOS failure on the way or possilbe coolant leak into a combustion chamber.

Don't be hard on yourself, sometimes small spits or cracks are difficult to find on these connectors, even the pros miss them.

Again, the "Pelican Option" is a single row only steel bearing, basically the weakest known design of any used. If you have a dual row car, you would actually be replacing the strongest of the factory designs with one the weakest. You would be better off leaving the factory bearing in there and just removing the rear seal so it can get some oil. If you had a single row car, you would be replacing a questionable design with another questionable design, all to save a few bucks.

The problem remains that the bearings with "nothing wrong" can suddenly change and wipe out an otherwise fine engine, and do so with absolutely no warning. Every M96/97 owner needs to make decision based upon what is known about these bearings, and in realtion to their risk tollerance levels. Some will follow Excellence Magazine's recommendation and change the bearing out as soon as possible, others may wait and do it when it is time to do the clutch, and some may choose to not do the upgrade at all. The choice is always yours to make, but it needs to be an informed decision.

Take the car somewhere else to someone that knows what they are talking about. There have been very few problems with the LN replacement bearings, most of which were traced to poor installation techniques. The number of installations done and still running number in the thousands; the ceramic bearing has proven itself. When LN first introduced the replacement bearing, they did recommend replacing the bearing at each clutch change, but have backed off that somewhat as the ceramic bearing has continued to show its long term strength. As for using cheaper replacements, in this application you really do get exactly what you pay for. One domestic supplier mentioned above uses all steel single row bearings with spacers to replace double row bearings; so you end up replacing one of the strongest design bearings with one that is known to be the weakest. But you saved a few bucks. Swell. If you have a dual row bearing car, the LN dual row replacement is the way to go. If you have a single row, going with the solid bearing "IMS Solution" would be optimal, but you could also consider the LN single row if you are on a tighter budget. In either case, go with an approved installer.

You cannot use this approach on a 996; everyone seems to lose sight of the fact that because the Tip uses an oil to water cooler that is built into the side of the Tip, there are no lines carrying fluid outside of the transmission, only coolant. RFM is correct, the only thing you can do is drain the pan, change the filter, and refill the trans. You will exchange somewhere between 3 and 4 quarts of the 9 or so total in the transmission, no more.

Somewhere between 3 and 4. The system hold a total of about 9, and most is trapped in the converter.

At this juncture, it is entirely possible you have a DME error; let Porsche look at it.

Thanks for the clarification.

Glad you got it sorted.

Question is, "Why is the car killing wheel bearings?" Even cars that see serious track time do not have this problem.

You have separate front and rear differentials in addition to the Tiptronic trans. Because yours is an 02, you have the benefit of both a fill and drain plug on the re diff, something the earlier cars lacked, making fluid changes a bit of a pain. Your rear diff uses and 85W90 hypoid gear oil, while the front diff uses 75W90. If I can make a suggestion, invest in the Bentley manual for your car, it contains copious information and photos on these service items and could save you a lot of money in the long run, and you can get it at the RennTech store link under the "Special Offers" tab at the top of this page.

Pedro, thanks for the clarifying photos. Quick question: The pressure regulator you are referring to is the factory unit in the oil pump, or does the system use and independent regulator to control the flow going to the IMS bearing?