JFP in PA

Actually, rather than "traction control", PSM functions as "yaw control" to limit the car's ability to get completely out of shape and end up in the top of a tree somewhere. The system uses a variety of sensors (individual wheel speed, steering angle, actual angular momentum of the vehicle, etc.) to try and help keep the car going in the direction the driver intends it to. From the OEM literature: PSM, which comes as standard, is an automatic control system that stabilises the vehicle at the limits of dynamic driving performance. Sensors continuously monitor driving direction, speed, yaw velocity and lateral acceleration. Using this information, PSM computes the actual direction of motion. If this direction deviates from the desired course, PSM initiates braking interventions targeted at individual wheels in order to stabilise the vehicle. Under acceleration on wet or low-grip road surfaces, PSM improves traction using the ABD (automatic brake differential) and ASR (anti-slip regulation) functions, giving an agile response. When ‘Sport’ mode is selected on the optional Sport Chrono Packages, the PSM intervention threshold is raised to enable greater driver involvement – particularly at speeds of up to approximately 70 km/h (45 mph). The integrated ABS can further reduce the braking distance. For an even sportier drive, PSM can be deactivated. However, it is automatically reactivated for your safety if either of the front wheels (in ‘Sport’ mode, both of the front wheels) requires ABS assistance. ABD remains permanently active. PSM has been enhanced and now includes two additional functions: precharging of the brake system, and brake assist. If you suddenly release the accelerator pedal, PSM automatically readies the braking system. With the braking system having been precharged, the brake pads are already in light contact with the brake discs. Maximum braking power is therefore achieved much sooner. When sudden braking is detected, the brake assist function applies maximum brake pressure to all four wheels. So it is a lot more than just traction control.

The 2.5 manual engine is basically the same as your Tip engine. You will need to strip some stuff off your old engine to accommodate the Tip but it should not be a big deal.

Your question is a little open ended; if your compressor can reach and maintain 90 PSIG, you should be fine. Smaller compressors often take more time for the system to reach 25 inches of vacuum or better, but if they can put out the required pressure, you should be fine.

I'd have to agree with you on the front motor mount, it really is not in the way, but some people find it easier that way. The tank is a bit more annoying because of the confined space and the number of hoses connected to it with those spring clamps. Just take you time, take an occasional break from the task, and it will go smoothly. The tank replacement is actually the very first DIY repair for many owners, so there are lots of write ups on the subject.

Start by making sure you checked all the fuses and relays, checking fuses #17 (heater fans) and 39 (AC condenser fan) in the central electrical panel; then check fuse #42 (AC compressor relay) in the engine compartment relay panel. You should also check relay #R14 (AC condenser fan) in the central relay panel; as well as relay #2 in the engine compartment relay panel.

You will find the "driving experience" between the two cars to be totally different things. I would suggest getting some seat time in an early 996 before making the change.

No I did not. Just waiting on the relay to be shipped. Why do you ask? Some people have replace the indicator bulbs with LED versions that caused all sorts of problems because they have the wrong internal resistance.

The tank change out is not hard, but it is time consuming and for some annoying. It is going to take some time to do the first time (nearly everyone that does one says they could cut the time substantially the next time) and you need to acquire cable drive hose clamp pliers (figure on $20-30)to get it done:

Get the car scanned and post the codes; without data, anything would be a guess.............

Passenger's side fuel rail (item #7): Pressures: Engine off 3.8 +/- 0.2 bar Engine idling 3.3 +/- 0.2 bar

I recently had the opportunity to spend some time with the new Bentley Publishers Porsche 911 (Type 993) Carrera Service Manual for last of the air-cooled 1995-1998 cars. As a shop owner, I know how expensive and difficult it can be to assemble and use meaningful technical resources to work on or properly maintain these cars. The original Porsche manuals (now out of print) literally cost more than a thousand dollars when you could obtain legitimate copies; and most of the bootleg versions I have looked at on the internet are incomplete, often missing entire sections as well as any of the supplements and corrections that Porsche once issued to the set owners, not to mention the intellectual property issues associated with these questionable versions. The 6 ½ lb. Bentley 993 manual is a well-organized and easily searchable hard bound volume that is extensively illustrated with many photos, most in color, as well as diagrams where appropriate. It contains sections covering just about any service item, including multiple sections covering engine disassembly and re assembly, something that is sorely missing from even the later factory manuals for the 986/996 water cooled cars. It carries a full set of factory wiring diagrams, as well as over 60 pages on individual OBD II fault codes and their explanations. Is it perfect? No. As with all Porsche related service manuals, it assumes that the user has a modicum of both technical and mechanical skills, plus access to a good tool set that includes some of Porsche specialty tooling. The OBD section, while very comprehensive, lacks the decision tree layout of the factory manuals that provide even a novice with a do this first, then this, then that approach to diagnostics. But the OBD section is logically organized enough to help find the cause for the codes. There is one minor typo correction noted at review time (concerning how to check the oil level), but as with all Bentley manuals, each copy has an individual code number inside the back cover that allows the owner to register it online so that they will receive future updates as these are found and identified, and this error already has been corrected. This is something you would not be getting with bootlegged information. At less than $150, it is an excellent addition to the technical library of any shop or car owner that will be working on these models.

Thank you for the quick response! I saw the 2.3 to 2.7 kOhm resistance criteria in a manual for 986 DME 7.8. Is the resistance criteria the same for DME 5.2.2? I imagine it is, but I just wanted to confirm. According to the Porsche OBD II diagnostic's manual, they are the same.

This is how the jumper works: But before we even go there, have you connected a fuel pressure test gauge to the test port on the injector fuel rail to test the car for both pressure and fuel delivery rate? If the fuel system is shutting down, you would see the sudden loss of pressure when this occurs. Another item to consider is the crank position sensor, which turns off the fuel pump when it fails to see the engine turning, and which also has a tendency to only do this when the engine is warm.

A lot of diagnostics effort. The P0112 code indicates that the intake air sensor in the MAF is faulty. Correct test is to pull the MAF and using a multimeter set to resistance (ohms) test across pins 1 and 3; you should read 2.3 to 2.7K ohms; you are only seeing 1.4K, so the MAF is out of range and needs to be replaced.

I would start by making sure all the fasteners for the shaft are still tight; it is highly unlikely that you suddenly have a tire problem. I would also give the shaft a good shake while the truck is up in the air to make sure something else on it has not come loose. When something like this happens, always go back to the last thing touched.

There is no such thing as an "ignorant question"; ignorance only occurs when questions are not asked..................

Failure of the composite water pump impeller is a constant issue on the M96/97 cars, but switching to a metal impeller is a complete no-no as the clearance between the impeller and the engine case is very tight, and as soon as the water pump shaft starts to wobble a bit (and they all do), you are going do some impromptu machine work on the engine case, filling the cooling system with fine metal filings as well. Getting as much of the composite impeller out of the system is a priority, as even small bits can block critical passages in the cylinder head, leading to very big problems. When trying to back flush the cooling system with the oil cooler removed, rubber stoppers (Lowes and other home centers sell them in various sizes) are your best friend. Plug the oil openings with rubber stoppers and no coolant will enter the oil system. If you have inadvertently gotten coolant into the oil system, you best bet is a full oil and filter change once the car is back together, followed by a long drive to heat everything up and flash off any residual coolant. Cleaning out the oil cooler assembly is often troublesome as some passages are very small. Again, the use of rubber stoppers can help keep the wrong fluids out of the wrong passages. If you are uncomfortable about some impeller bits remaining, the easiest and best way is to just buy a new cooler (about $200 or so at Sunset Porsche). But regardless of whether you clean yours out or get a replacement, get all new O-rings as these cheap seals are single use only items.

Because the Tip uses an oil to water cooler mounted on the side of the gearbox instead of running trans fluid lines all the way to the radiators, there is literally no way to use a power flushing system on them. So you are limited to draining 3-4 liters out when you drain the pan and swap out the filter. Doing multiple refills and dumps will help clean out a trans that has not been serviced properly for some time. Once you have got the system cleaned out, a better regimen would be to do at least an annual trans fluid dump (changing the filter every other year), so that you are constantly replenishing at least some of the fluid and removing some of the collected crud. We do this for several customers every season when he cars are being prepped for winter hibernation.

Yes, draining, a new filter, and fresh fluid would be in order; no, I would not use the Amsoil product as it is not approved for use in this transmission. Go with Porsche spec fluids only, these gearboxes are picky about fluids.

You are going to need to take the strut out of compression, which means removing it and the carrier from the car, in order to disassemble the strut from the carrier so that the strut and spring can safely be taken apart. The axel will stay in the car during this process however. If you have access to the 996 Bentley manual, the entire process is fully documented (with photos). Hi, Im actually fitting coilovers so really what I meant was the carrier, strut and spring in one go. Sorry for not being clear. So I can squeeze it out then. thanks Doh, Excuse me I've had a couple of beers, So the carrier needs removed which the axle is attached to thus removing the 32mm nut and a few ball joints? I was hoping I could unbolt the top mount and force the carrier down to remove the strut and spring etc. thanks again The carrier has to come out, so yes.

I would have to say it is abnormal. Any idea when was the last time the Tip and/or diff were serviced?

You are going to need to take the strut out of compression, which means removing it and the carrier from the car, in order to disassemble the strut from the carrier so that the strut and spring can safely be taken apart. The axel will stay in the car during this process however. If you have access to the 996 Bentley manual, the entire process is fully documented (with photos).

Until the vehicle is scanned, you really won't know, but any competent shop should not have released a vehicle that was coding after any type of service........................

Some of the M96's do consume a bit of oil, so that is nothing unusual. In your case, you have a couple of "unknowns"; you "assume" the car was in range when you got it, which is a big assumption. If you are that concerned, get a fresh oil and filter change, making sure it is correctly filled, then keep and eye on it to see what happens. Not being sure where you started, and running oil with some miles on it already, is not going to give you an accurate assessment of how much oil the car is using.

Get the vehicle scanned for codes, note them, then clear them and see if the warning returns.