Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,813
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    207

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. As long as it does not interfere in any way with the torque of the center bolt nut (e.g.: it sits in a recess that allows the nut to fully contact the flange), it should not be an issue. Just curious, whose kit are you using? Reason I ask it that Pelican's kit used an O-ring spacer before the center bolt nut, which keeps the nut off the O-ring, while the LN kit does not..........
  2. Sorry, my first response was incorrect (had to go look at an assembly), the small O-ring they provide goes inside the flange before the flange is installed. Be sure to put a small amount of lubricant (silicone would be best) on the inner O-ring surface before sliding the flange onto the center bolt shaft (see item #20 in the LN instructions). You can just see the O-ring is this enlarged photo:
  3. By "bearing shaft", I assume you are referring to the bearing center bolt: As you can see from this photo, the LN center bolt (on the left) does not have a grove cut in it for the seal ring that is on the OEM center bolt (right side). This is because many OEM IMS failures result in the center bolt failing at the grove area, so LN made the center bolt thicker and did not use the o-ring, which is also why you need to use the two special thread locker/wicking sealants I mentioned earlier.
  4. Perhaps I should have said "warm" rather than heat. Some people can take the word "heat" pretty far... ;) vs. :eek:
  5. With a true dry sump system on the Metzger engine, finding a place to put a dipstick would have been a mechanical nightmare; the electronic level system was the correct move. That said, these cars do not like to be overfilled with oil; so I would suggest warming the car and draining off some oil until you have it at the correct level using the display. As you have had parts of the intake system apart, I would have to say is sounds like something in the intake is leaking. It could be the new DV's, or simply a hose connection somewhere in the system is not seated or tight. If you don't have access to a smoke machine, it is going to have to be a process of elimination.
  6. I think the point of loosening the converter bolts while the Tip is still in the car comes from a lack of understanding on how to do it. A Tip equipped cars have an opening next to the starter where special tool 9595 (also known as a 5/16 metal rod) slides into the bell housing and into an opening in the converter next to the double bolt set (there are three of these bolt sets equally spaced around the converter). With this pin in place, the converter cannot rotate while the fasteners are removed through the starter opening. Once the two bolts are out, retract the pin and rotate the engine until then next pair appear in the starter opening, reinsert the pin and repeat. When the last of the six bolts are out, leave the pin in place as it will prevent the converter from moving or falling off while the trans is being separated from the engine. When you put the trans back, you simply reverse the process, again using the pin to hold the converter while mounting the Tip, and carefully replacing the six fasteners. One caveat: Do not drop any of the six converter bolts while reinstalling them, the only way to get one out of the bell housing if you do this is to pull the trans off the engine. Experience has shown that the bolts with the highest probability of being dropped are the fifth or sixth ones installed, which will obviously maximize the level of frustration and work involved. :eek:
  7. Considering that a couple people I know have purchased from them, and they are not businesses, the must be a way around the "wholesale only".
  8. Unless I am mistaken, SSF will sell to anyone with a valid credit card.
  9. You can try Amazon with an overnight delivery, or check the Henkel website to see who carries what you need. SSF, by-the-by, is the "official" distributor of all of LN and Jake Raby's retrofit products, including the IMS Solution product.
  10. Check with any industrial supply houses such as Grainger's in your area, they carry the Loctite line. I think Loctite (Henkel) also has a "where to buy" feature on their website. Amazon.com also sells most Loctite products. Loctite 5900, DriBond, and Curil-T are fine mating surface sealants for use on the sump or cam covers, but they are not for use on the RMS. Do not use anything on the PTFE seal, it must be clean and free of any oil or sealants to work properly. We have had to replace more than one recent DIY fitted RMS seal because they used a lubricant or sealant.
  11. You can also obtain this information with the Durametric system, by reading the accrued operation hours from the DME and dividing it into the mirage shown on the odometer to obtain the vehicles average MPH. As most cars average between 30-50MPH over their life span, a number well below 30MPH would be suspect. You also need to know that swapping out instrument clusters in these cars is a common ploy to evade excess mileage charges on leased cars that are being turned in.
  12. Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC) uses active anti-roll bars on the front and rear axles to significantly reduce lateral body movement during cornering maneuvers. PDCC reads the current steering angle and lateral acceleration forces, and responds by producing a stabilizing counterforce that precisely negates any swaying force acting on the body. The result is optimal traction and occupant comfort in both on and off-road use. As with any technology that employs multiple sensors and active mechanical devices, there is an increased chance of component failure with accrued mileage. Most people seem to like it because it uncouples the sway bars when you are just cruising down the highway, resulting in a better overall ride, but instantly brings them back online when they are needed for crisp handling. This option is very highly regarded by Cayenne owners in conjunction with the optional air suspension featuring PASM.
  13. You have to remember that all diagnostic scanners, regardless of origin or price, function more like a compass than a GPS unit; they can point you in the right direction, but you still have to apply basic diagnostic logic and experience to arrive at the correct answer to a problem. Well said! Thanks. I occasionally do have moments of lucidity............. :eek:
  14. Do you think it's easier to get it out? Hope you're right! :eek: After you have done your first dozen or so, you will fully understand; particularly if you are dealing with Tips in the 996 :thumbup:
  15. You have to remember that all diagnostic scanners, regardless of origin or price, function more like a compass than a GPS unit; they can point you in the right direction, but you still have to apply basic diagnostic logic and experience to arrive at the correct answer to a problem.
  16. We only use the OEM gear oils, I've mentioned several times previously that Porsche uses a unique full synthetic gear oil that is made to their specs and which the larger oil companies admit they do not have a match for, so why mess around with something else that may or may not work? Loctite 242 is a low strength product, I would prefer to use 268 which is a high strength thread locker on the new flywheel and pressure plate bolts. I also use a small bead of Loctite 574 on the bottom of the IMS center bolt nut, and a small amount of Loctite 290 Green wicking thread locker on the center bolt threads; the last two are done to prevent small oil leaks that come from engine oil wicking up the center bolt threads and dripping behind the flywheel, which can shorten the life of the flywheel's dual mass elastomer. The correct install depth (measured from the flywheel mating surface of the crankshaft) for the PTFE RMS seal is 13MM, which is critical. It is also critical that all mating surfaces for the seal be scrupulously clean and that no lubricant of any kind be used as it will cause leaks.
  17. P0445 is the code for a short to ground on the EVAP canister purge valve, and more often than not is a wiring problem, but can also be DME related. You need to start by checking the wiring to the purge valve to make sure the harness has not chaffed and shorted. My previous and now deleted response was for the wrong code.
  18. Ahsai / JFP, thanks for your help on this and the other thread. I remember now the mechanic telling me the anti freeze was permanent and didn't need changed so that makes sense. Here is a shot of the liquid out of the tank and it's clear with no separation. I'll have my guy look at it in the am just to be sure. I'm sure there is no oil involved looking at this (whew!) Rich That looks fine, no signs of cloudiness or seperation.
  19. That is not the original coolant, the 1999 stuff would have been green. The pink stuff dates to 2004-05 introduction.
  20. Couple of points: If you are using just the one 5 chain cam tool, it has to be on the water pump end of the engine. You can also put a second one on the other end of the engine, but the one on the water pump end is important. It is not unusual for an older engine to be somewhat off in cam timing, which is why you should run cam deviation checks prior and after a retrofit. You should not be locking the cams by moving the engine off TDC, that pin has to remain in the crank pulley during the entire proceedure. Quite often, you need to rotate the engine more than one cycle before the cams will line up, this is nothing unusual. If you have rotated the engine by hand (clockwise only) through multiple cycles and the cam slots still to not line up, you may have a cam timing problem that needs to be addressed before the retrofit.
  21. Check your alternator, many of these cars were equipped with a declutching pulley on the alternator that can make clicking or ratcheting sounds when they go bad. Easy to replace but requires a special tool to get it off.
  22. It looks like the newer "pink" coolant. As it is hard to tell from the picture, is the mixture clear or cloudy?
  23. While you can take a Tip out of the Boxster by itself, taking them out as a unit and then separating them can make sense, depending upon what you are doing. Many times it is less work.
  24. The bulkhead grommets in these cars are directional, meaning they insert from only one side. Why not recover the one you pushed out and reuse it, or if it cannot be reused, definitely get a new one. In either case, a quick spray with silicone will make pushing back in place a lot easier.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.