JFP in PA

JFP, just wondering. What would happen if you blew a bunch of combustible solvent into the intake before starting the engine, say ether. Could you not at least partially dissolve the oil? Once it gets down there the engine should burn it just fine. My car always smokes for about 30 seconds on start up. I was told this was due to oil residue getting trapped in horizontal cylinders. Problem with blowing solvent into the intake is that it has to collect somewhere, like in the cylinders where it takes all the oil off the walls, which can cause scoring, or it collect in the oil sump. Either way, not good Excuse me JFP I should have been more specific. Using a spray can of ether, spraying enough for the vapor to just wet the walls of the intake then immediately starting the car. Not spraying so much that a significant amount could collect above the intake valve. This is another one of those how fast is fast enough questions. Problem remains that the amount of oil that builds up in the intake over a relatively short time is considerable, you can wipe it off the runner walls with your fingers and can often find little pools in places. There have been instances where a blown AOS has actually sucked enough liquid oil into the intake system to flood cylinders and cause a hydraulic lock to occur which bends or breaks very expensive parts. This is why we tell people with cars billowing smoke not to drive them, flatbed them to the shop. So with the potential for this amount of oil getting into the intake, I think you can understand I might be hesitant to believe that introducing a spray into the intake is going to clean it out on an assembled and running engine. We do use spray cleaners on the intake, but after it is off the car.........

JFP, just wondering. What would happen if you blew a bunch of combustible solvent into the intake before starting the engine, say ether. Could you not at least partially dissolve the oil? Once it gets down there the engine should burn it just fine. My car always smokes for about 30 seconds on start up. I was told this was due to oil residue getting trapped in horizontal cylinders. Problem with blowing solvent into the intake is that it has to collect somewhere, like in the cylinders where it takes all the oil off the walls, which can cause scoring, or it collect in the oil sump. Either way, not good.

This does not sound overly well. While the lack of compression is most probably a mechanical rather than an electronic issue, I would not be running the engine and would get the vehicle scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostics tool (PIWIS or Durametric) to find out what codes are triggering the MIL. To make a long story short, if you have suffered a mechanical failure, the engine is most likely going to have to come out.

It is not at all uncommon for there to be residual oil and smoke after replacing a blown AOS. Problem is that over a period of time, a failing AOS can coat a lot of surfaces in the intake system with oil, which does not go away quickly. Some owners have had to resort to manually cleaning out their intakes to eliminate this problem. Not a fun job, but if the amount of oil is considerable, it may be you only option other than living with the smoke until the residual oil eventually vaporizes.

If it was installed by a dealer in 2009, it has the last design IMS bearing.

You can also use cheap and readily available "rattle can" underbody coatings or bed liner materials, which a flexible plastic spray on material that can later be stripped off.

my 997-2 turbo s is a 2011 model. I have reviewed all the 997-2 turbo tutorials and can not find an answer as to how to change the air filter [which I assume is easy] or how to change the coolant. Air filter: Open your engine lid. 1. Pull the air cover straight up (1 hand on each of the openings and just pull up gently). 2. It will reveal the air filter. Air filter is held in with 4 Torx screws. Unscrew and pull air filter out. 3. Replace air filter. Re-install the 4 screws, and reinstall the air cover. The coolant is a bit more involved. With the car up in the air, you need to locate the two small coolant drain plugs on the bottom of the water necks (one is seen in the top center of this photo): Once the plugs are out, you should also disconnect the hoses going forward to the radiators and up to the heater core so that they can drain as well. Expect to only get about 70-80% of the coolant out with a straight gravity drain; there are several places it can get trapped and simply will not drain from. Once all the coolant that can drain off is out, replace the plugs and hoses. Because of the complexity of the cooling system on this car, I strongly recommend refilling the system with OEM coolant mixed in equal parts with distilled water, and doing it with a vacuum filling tool.

Suggest contacting Charles Navarro at LN Engineering, I'm sure he will be able to help you out.

:thumbup: EVAP system problems are second only to girl friend/wife issues in terms of complexity and level of general aggravation............

There are multiple valves on the system, as well as pressure and vacuum sensors. It is designed to function as a closed loop that prevents vapors from escaping from the tank by capturing them in the activated carbon in the EVAP canister where they are held until drawn into the engine to be burned, and also preventing the gas tank going under excessive vacuum. Here is a simplified explanation of how it does this: http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/294

I assume you are referring to #1 in the drawing below: When #1 opens, it draws the vapor laden air out of the EVAP canister into the intake to be burned.

Hello EleCTriCT, I am sorry to have revived an old thread but I was just wondering if it is at all possible to do a maintenance interval reset (after oil change) without using a PIWIS-II or Durametric. Is there a procedure using button presses? I am specifically referring to the 2013 Panamera S. Not to my knowledge, you need either a PIWIS or Durametric software system to reset it.

The 991 uses similar jacking points to the 996 under the side rocker panels. The jack pad mounts accept the same pads we use on the earlier cars. I also have not seen anything "offical" concerning other ways to pick the car up.

Turn signal return issues are common in these cars, as are problems with the horn sounding without anyone pressing the horn section of the steering wheel. The turn signal return usually equates to replacing the switch in the steering column, so now would be the time to do the OBC four stalk replacement as well. These are the necessary parts to do the four stalk, the prices date back a couple years, so expect them to be a bit higher: 1) 996-613-219-10 EWC 4 column switch - $166.29 2) 999-650-513-40 Plug Socket (for wiring harness) - $2.86 3) 000-979-009 VW Wiring Set (5 of them) - $13.05 4) 993-552-573-01-01C Steering Wheel Switch Cover (additional opening for 4th stalk on Left hand side) - $6.06 I've also attached the DIY instructions if you want to try this yourself: http://www.renntech.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_id=28311

This does not sound good. Most likely, something has failed and allowed coolant to intermix with the oil. Have the car flatbedded to a competent shop for diagnostics; do not drive it or even try to start it.

True about Craftsman/sears quality, but just the same: They are still better than the crap I see a lot of people trying to use from Northern and other "discount" tool outlets. Recently, I received a Sears gift card, and having no other real use for it, I ordered some tools for the shop (sockets, extensions, etc., nothing complicated or unusual). My first surprise was to receive a confirmation email from some third party fulfillment house rather than from Sears, and the second surprise was what was eventually shipped out to me. Instead of getting all Craftsman sockets and tools as I had ordered, some of them were from other suppliers (SK, Gearwrench) even though the entire order I placed was for Craftsman. Third surprise was that the tools that were Craftsman had very poor finishes on them, some even had peeling chrome. When I called the "customer service" phone number, I found myself speaking to someone who obviously was not a native English speaker and had no basic tool knowledge, which made the conversation awkward to say the least. Eventually, they did send out replacements for the tools with issues, which again were an odd mix of some Craftsman and other brands, and which again came from a non Sears location. In their world, apparently all 5MM 1/4 drive deep sockets are interchangeable. Sorry, but I cannot recommend buying anything important or expensive from a business that is run that poorly..........

Unfortunately, with Sears slowly "circling the drain", both the quality of their tools and their once ironclad warranty have started to suffer. I would be very cautious about buying tools for the long term from them as they may not be long for this world.

I'm sure they have the same collection of nuts and bolts.

Go to Lowes and buy longer versions of a couple of the bell housing bolts, cut their heads off and screw them in finger tight; that makes an excellent alignment guide and support to help get the gearbox back in.

The Burmah product was for five speed manual gear boxes way back when, and was amber in color (as is the Shell product). I wasn't sure they even carried anymore as the Shell product covers both the 5 and 6 speed gearboxes.

Leave the drain plug out of the trans until the new stuff arrives so it drains as much as possible, and then run some of the new fluid through the gear box before putting the drain plug in, you should be fine.

I have no idea what he is talking about; there is no difference between the S and non S manual gear box lubricants....................... :eek: That said, if you are concerned about cleaning out whatever he originally sent you, have him send you an extra quart to run through the trans with the drain plug out, which should push out whatever is in there........

A 1/2 drive 30-150 to 200 ft. lb. adjustable click style is probably the most useful, followed by the 3/8 drive 0-250 in lb. you already have. Do not scrimp on quality, these tools are a "lifetime" purchase, so get good ones. My personal preference is for Snap-On units, of which I own several ranging from a 2.5-50 inch pound click style driver (looks like a screw driver), up to a 3/4 drive 200-600 ft. lb. unit for axel nuts and the like. All are Snap-On, all have years of use, and still pass annual calibration testing without ever needing any adjustments. They have proven to be worth every penny paid for them.

Common behavior if the oil is cool and the engine has not run for very long.

It is nearly impossible to discern where an oil leak is coming from by looking at spots on the floor. You need to put the car up in the air, and start looking..................