JFP in PA

The bulkhead grommets in these cars are directional, meaning they insert from only one side. Why not recover the one you pushed out and reuse it, or if it cannot be reused, definitely get a new one. In either case, a quick spray with silicone will make pushing back in place a lot easier.

As someone that does this for a living, let me give you some basics: Forget about anyone's instructions except for LN Engineering. While some people have gotten away using the so-called set screw method, others have had major league problems. Because the gear you are pushing on with the set screws is a press fit to the IMS shaft, you can actually move the gear on the shaft, which then requires taking the engine apart to fix. Bad idea. Get a copy of the LN instructions and follow them to the letter, they are the only ones known to not create problems; and don't cheap out on getting the necessary tooling. TDC is only for the #1 cylinder, there is no other engine position will minimize valve spring loading, which is what will try to rotate the engine during this process. Once the engine is rotated to TDC (turning clockwise only), it should not be moved and the locking pin should not be removed until everything is reassembled. The "green stuff" on the bolts is a micro encapsulation Porsche uses to help hold the bolts tight. The blue on the flywheel bolts is thread locker. And while on the subject, you should not even consider reusing any of the pressure plate or flywheel bolts, they are single use fasteners. The three chain tensioners can be removed. It is always a good idea to clean them and at least check them for signs of wear as it is a pain in the butt to go back in to replace a weak one. Be sure to note which tensioner came from where, they are not all the same. A blown AOS will leave a lot of oil in the intake system, and take forever to burn off unless you take the system apart and manually clean everything out. Buy a leak down tester rather than a compression gauge, leak down tests tell you a lot more than a simple compression test. Thanks JFP in PA, as always, you give wizened informative clarity. I wouldn't even think of reusing the flywheel bolts or pressure plate bolts (or old seals), and I did purchase the LN toolkit. But in reading instruction #6, from LN's site(Rev16 Jan 2013), it is not specifically stating "which" exhaust camshaft to place the 5 chain lock on. According to the Bentley YouTube video, at least on the three chain motors, both cyl 1-3 and 4-6 intake and exhaust camshafts were locked into place and all three tensioners removed. LN's site under #7 suggests loosening/removing the third one only if "centeredness" isn't achieved. Also, if the tensioners are removed, (at least the two) don't they have to be submerged in new oil prior to being reinstalled? If memory serves, I saw that on a rebuild. I'll be sure to follow the visual cues on the tensioner and the engine for which is which. ---- From LN: #6: Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners. Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine, closest to flywheel. #7. Remove the IMS to crankshaft chain tensioner as well as well the chain tensioner on the cylinder head for which you have locked the cam. If tensioners are worn or were noisy at startup, replace. NOTE: If the flange does not come off easily, the bearing is not centered, or you cannot reinstall the flange, then loosen and/or remove the third chain tensioner. ---- That second sentence in #6 is hard to *interpret/visualize. If I read #6 & #7 correctly, Only two tensioners need to be removed (Ims/crankshaft & the tensioner for 4-6 cyl.), the third optional (cyl 1-3 - by the AC behind the driver seat) if necessity applies. The cams on the left side of the flywheel (If you are facing the flywheel) are cylinders 4-6, the upper is the intake the lower is the exhaust. On a 5 chain motor, put the 5-chain lock on the exhaust cam for cyl. 4-6. Is that correct? {*Addendum: In some prior posts I had originally mixed up referring which engine sides were which before because of my dyslexia - calling the drivers side cylinders 1-3 and passenger side 4-6. Sorry if that adds to any confusion. That's why visuals usually clear up things for me, but I don't usually have problems interpreting what I've read if I read something several times.} On the AOS, that was changed out about 20K ago...maybe a bit less. It was the older problematic aos that was replaced. Though I could cut the 3 chain lock to work as a second 5-chain, the thickness is different. The 5 - chain lock is slightly beveled. Though I could "bevel" the altered 3 chain in addition to cutting it, would it "fit" on a five chain as it is, keeping the integrity of the timing (and the tool)intact? Thanks again for your help with this...I'll be making a donation to the site soon. You are reading too much into non comparable statements. Bentley is talking about 3 chain motors, which are decidedly more prone to jump timing during an IMS retrofit, so both cams get locked down and all three tensioners are removed as a precaution. On a five chain motor, which you have, each set of cams also has a chain running cam to cam, so timing jumps are much less probable and only one cam set needs to be locked by holding a single cam, but you can still do both banks if you feel safer and which is also a good idea. You can also get by pulling only the two tensioners mentioned in the LN instructions, unless you find that pulling the flange off is hard, meaning there is still tension on the shaft; then you would pull the third tensioner to relive the flange. In reality, once the car is up in the air and the engine is locked down, pulling all three tensioners is a simple operation, and allows you to check them for problems, as well as precluding the off center problem. On many retrofits, the combination of noise complaints and higher than desirable cam deviation values prior to the job makes looking at and potentially replacing the three tensioners pretty much a done deal. Porsche has updated these tensioners more than once since your car was built, and while they are not cheap (about $100 per), it would be less cost effective to have to do this twice. Rather than hacking up the three chain lock, why not take the five chain unit to a local fab shop and have them make you a second one? They are not that complicated. And, yes, the tensioners should be pumped in oil before use; used ones should be pumped in warm Marvel Mystery Oil until they clean all the crud out of them first, then in engine oil to prime them.

As someone that does this for a living, let me give you some basics: Forget about anyone's instructions except for LN Engineering. While some people have gotten away using the so-called set screw method, others have had major league problems. Because the gear you are pushing on with the set screws is a press fit to the IMS shaft, you can actually move the gear on the shaft, which then requires taking the engine apart to fix. Bad idea. Get a copy of the LN instructions and follow them to the letter, they are the only ones known to not create problems; and don't cheap out on getting the necessary tooling. TDC is only for the #1 cylinder, there is no other engine position will minimize valve spring loading, which is what will try to rotate the engine during this process. Once the engine is rotated to TDC (turning clockwise only), it should not be moved and the locking pin should not be removed until everything is reassembled. The "green stuff" on the bolts is a micro encapsulation Porsche uses to help hold the bolts tight. The blue on the flywheel bolts is thread locker. And while on the subject, you should not even consider reusing any of the pressure plate or flywheel bolts, they are single use fasteners. The three chain tensioners can be removed. It is always a good idea to clean them and at least check them for signs of wear as it is a pain in the butt to go back in to replace a weak one. Be sure to note which tensioner came from where, they are not all the same. A blown AOS will leave a lot of oil in the intake system, and take forever to burn off unless you take the system apart and manually clean everything out. Buy a leak down tester rather than a compression gauge, leak down tests tell you a lot more than a simple compression test.

Are you absolutely sure you have the correct bolts back in their locations on the flywheel (converter and crank bolts)? If it happens every time the flywheel rotates once, it has to be associated with the flywheel, converter, or the front pump in the Tip......something is touching when the assembly rotates.

Check your crank position sensor, it is right there and sits very close to the flywheel to read the teeth on the back of the flywheel to get the crank's position. It is held in by one bolt and is easy to pull out; look for signs of contact on the face.

There used to be a product call the "boomerang" that was a stainless steel plate for this purpose, but I have not seen anyone selling them in several years. Search could be your best bet on this one.

I would also go back to what I said earlier; check every plug connection on both lights, try unplugging and reconnecting each of them (making sure they are fully seated) as well as checking the system grounds. A lot of Litronics "bugs" have ultimately be traced to poor system connections which the system does not respond well to at all. Pulling and checking everything is tedious, but often very rewarding.

This is a post delivery install, therefore there are no leveling sensors and the Durametric system will not be able to read faults as the lights are not linked to the DME.

Good point.

The OEM pads should be fine, and only replace the sensors if they need it (have illuminated the dash MIL), otherwise reuse them.

I would tend to agree with Loren on this, the M96 engine is prone to oil bleed down over time which leads to noise at start up. In addition, this problem is exacerbated by rather low film strengths in some very low viscosity oils (0W-just about anything), particularly when they have some miles on them. You might want to consider an oil with known better film strength characteristics such as 5W-40 Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology, or the new Joe Gibbs DT 40, which is also a 5W-40. The DT40 is particularly interesting as it shows a significant improvement in low temperature viscosity retention with accumulated mileage when compared to the Mobil 1 product, and DT40 has very high levels of ZDDP. The chain tensioners are also somewhat problematic on these cars as well, and Porsche has updated the tensioners at least twice in an apparent attempt to address the problem of noise. If a better oil does not improve the situation, newer tensioners could be in your future.

Also check that the headlight harness plugs are properly seated, and check the grounds as well.

You need to be aware that Porsche's are famous for their unique diagnostic systems, which often lead to erroneous codes by non Porsche specific scan tools (PIWIS, Durametric). Before going further, I would get the car rescanned on a Porsche system.

Sometimes the best advice is to simply go back to the last thing touched.

You may need to give a dealer a call for part numbers once you have isolated the leaks.

The first thing we would do would be to completely clean the engine and trans off, then run the car for a day and look at it again to see where the leak is. Quite often a small leak will look like it is coming from somewhere else because of the way the fluid spreads about. As for an exploded parts view, look up the Auto Atlanta website, find the parts diagram for your car, and you should find all the necessary part numbers. But you need to isolate exactly where the leaks are first.

Boy, you have come up with a real gem of an issue. Rather than trying to rotate the assembly or blow the bits out, which may worsen the problems, probably your best bet short of pulling the cylinder head is going to be inserting a bore scope into the cylinders to see what is actually in there and where it is sitting. Then it is going to be a matter of jury rigging some retrieval tools (copper wire with double stick tape on the end, etc.) to go after what you find. It is going to be slow and tedious, but I think doable without dropping the engine. Once you get everything out you can find, I would still run a full leak down to make sure everything is OK.

Welcome :welcome: Year and model would be helpful information.

Anti seize will not bother anything, just don't go nuts applying it.

If memory serves (I'm away from the shop at the moment), the C102 may indicate that a controller needs to be reset or possibly replaced. This cannot be done with the Durametric, it needs a PIWIS.

There are several DIY's for this, this is a pretty good one: http://www.skylersrants.com/Porsche/Radiator/Radiator.html In addition to the 160 stat, you might consider the larger oil cooler and a third radiator if you car does not already have them.

You could also clean out the collected debris in your radiators (always a problem on these cars), and install a 160F thermostat (always an excellent idea).

Not easily, the fan control (on and off) if done by the DME software; to alter the temperatures, you would have to install an external control system of some sort, which a seriously doubt a dealer will do. Why do you want to alter the profile?

Try shooting it with some PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil and let it sit for a bit; the sensor and the bore where it sits in the carrier are supposed to be coated with a moly lubricant to prevent them sticking, but they tend to do just that anyway. Once you get it out, be sure to clean the bore with a small brush and use either a good quality brake grease or anti seize compound to prevent it getting stuck again.

I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right.... In real life, the item depicted in the drawing above looks like this: That's what I thought it was. The isometric perspective made me wonder if the image had been changed. No, the line drawing was to highlight the ridge in the center of the coupler, not all CPVC coupler's have it and it is critical to the success of using it to insert the seal.