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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    I'm sure they have the same collection of nuts and bolts.
  2. JFP in PA
    Go to Lowes and buy longer versions of a couple of the bell housing bolts, cut their heads off and screw them in finger tight; that makes an excellent alignment guide and support to help get the gearbox back in.
  3. JFP in PA
    The Burmah product was for five speed manual gear boxes way back when, and was amber in color (as is the Shell product). I wasn't sure they even carried anymore as the Shell product covers both the 5 and 6 speed gearboxes.
  4. JFP in PA
    Leave the drain plug out of the trans until the new stuff arrives so it drains as much as possible, and then run some of the new fluid through the gear box before putting the drain plug in, you should be fine.
  5. JFP in PA
    I have no idea what he is talking about; there is no difference between the S and non S manual gear box lubricants....................... :eek: That said, if you are concerned about cleaning out whatever he originally sent you, have him send you an extra quart to run through the trans with the drain plug out, which should push out whatever is in there........
  6. JFP in PA
    A 1/2 drive 30-150 to 200 ft. lb. adjustable click style is probably the most useful, followed by the 3/8 drive 0-250 in lb. you already have. Do not scrimp on quality, these tools are a "lifetime" purchase, so get good ones. My personal preference is for Snap-On units, of which I own several ranging from a 2.5-50 inch pound click style driver (looks like a screw driver), up to a 3/4 drive 200-600 ft. lb. unit for axel nuts and the like. All are Snap-On, all have years of use, and still pass annual calibration testing without ever needing any adjustments. They have proven to be worth every penny paid for them.
  7. JFP in PA
    Common behavior if the oil is cool and the engine has not run for very long.
  8. JFP in PA
    It is nearly impossible to discern where an oil leak is coming from by looking at spots on the floor. You need to put the car up in the air, and start looking..................
  9. JFP in PA
    Depends upon whose underdrive pulley, and how it was installed. Some of these pulley's still have the TDC markings and opening for the pin in them, and as long as you didn't get Palaeolithic when cutting down the boss on the case, the OEM pin still works. For cases where the boss was totally butchered, or the pulley lacks markings or will not accomadate the pin, we fabricated an "arm" out of flat stock that bolts to the rear crank flange on one end, and to the engine case bolt holes for the bell housing on the other, and which is adjustable, to hold the engine at TDC. Works very well, and saves time. We also keep a stock pulley around for backup.
  10. JFP in PA
    Glad you found it.
  11. JFP in PA
    As long as it does not interfere in any way with the torque of the center bolt nut (e.g.: it sits in a recess that allows the nut to fully contact the flange), it should not be an issue. Just curious, whose kit are you using? Reason I ask it that Pelican's kit used an O-ring spacer before the center bolt nut, which keeps the nut off the O-ring, while the LN kit does not..........
  12. JFP in PA
    Sorry, my first response was incorrect (had to go look at an assembly), the small O-ring they provide goes inside the flange before the flange is installed. Be sure to put a small amount of lubricant (silicone would be best) on the inner O-ring surface before sliding the flange onto the center bolt shaft (see item #20 in the LN instructions). You can just see the O-ring is this enlarged photo:
  13. JFP in PA
    By "bearing shaft", I assume you are referring to the bearing center bolt: As you can see from this photo, the LN center bolt (on the left) does not have a grove cut in it for the seal ring that is on the OEM center bolt (right side). This is because many OEM IMS failures result in the center bolt failing at the grove area, so LN made the center bolt thicker and did not use the o-ring, which is also why you need to use the two special thread locker/wicking sealants I mentioned earlier.
  14. JFP in PA
    Perhaps I should have said "warm" rather than heat. Some people can take the word "heat" pretty far... ;) vs. :eek:
  15. JFP in PA
    With a true dry sump system on the Metzger engine, finding a place to put a dipstick would have been a mechanical nightmare; the electronic level system was the correct move. That said, these cars do not like to be overfilled with oil; so I would suggest warming the car and draining off some oil until you have it at the correct level using the display. As you have had parts of the intake system apart, I would have to say is sounds like something in the intake is leaking. It could be the new DV's, or simply a hose connection somewhere in the system is not seated or tight. If you don't have access to a smoke machine, it is going to have to be a process of elimination.
  16. JFP in PA
    I think the point of loosening the converter bolts while the Tip is still in the car comes from a lack of understanding on how to do it. A Tip equipped cars have an opening next to the starter where special tool 9595 (also known as a 5/16 metal rod) slides into the bell housing and into an opening in the converter next to the double bolt set (there are three of these bolt sets equally spaced around the converter). With this pin in place, the converter cannot rotate while the fasteners are removed through the starter opening. Once the two bolts are out, retract the pin and rotate the engine until then next pair appear in the starter opening, reinsert the pin and repeat. When the last of the six bolts are out, leave the pin in place as it will prevent the converter from moving or falling off while the trans is being separated from the engine. When you put the trans back, you simply reverse the process, again using the pin to hold the converter while mounting the Tip, and carefully replacing the six fasteners. One caveat: Do not drop any of the six converter bolts while reinstalling them, the only way to get one out of the bell housing if you do this is to pull the trans off the engine. Experience has shown that the bolts with the highest probability of being dropped are the fifth or sixth ones installed, which will obviously maximize the level of frustration and work involved. :eek:
  17. JFP in PA
    Considering that a couple people I know have purchased from them, and they are not businesses, the must be a way around the "wholesale only".
  18. JFP in PA
    Unless I am mistaken, SSF will sell to anyone with a valid credit card.
  19. JFP in PA
    You can try Amazon with an overnight delivery, or check the Henkel website to see who carries what you need. SSF, by-the-by, is the "official" distributor of all of LN and Jake Raby's retrofit products, including the IMS Solution product.
  20. JFP in PA
    Check with any industrial supply houses such as Grainger's in your area, they carry the Loctite line. I think Loctite (Henkel) also has a "where to buy" feature on their website. Amazon.com also sells most Loctite products. Loctite 5900, DriBond, and Curil-T are fine mating surface sealants for use on the sump or cam covers, but they are not for use on the RMS. Do not use anything on the PTFE seal, it must be clean and free of any oil or sealants to work properly. We have had to replace more than one recent DIY fitted RMS seal because they used a lubricant or sealant.
  21. JFP in PA
    You can also obtain this information with the Durametric system, by reading the accrued operation hours from the DME and dividing it into the mirage shown on the odometer to obtain the vehicles average MPH. As most cars average between 30-50MPH over their life span, a number well below 30MPH would be suspect. You also need to know that swapping out instrument clusters in these cars is a common ploy to evade excess mileage charges on leased cars that are being turned in.
  22. JFP in PA
    Porsche Dynamic Chassis Control (PDCC) uses active anti-roll bars on the front and rear axles to significantly reduce lateral body movement during cornering maneuvers. PDCC reads the current steering angle and lateral acceleration forces, and responds by producing a stabilizing counterforce that precisely negates any swaying force acting on the body. The result is optimal traction and occupant comfort in both on and off-road use. As with any technology that employs multiple sensors and active mechanical devices, there is an increased chance of component failure with accrued mileage. Most people seem to like it because it uncouples the sway bars when you are just cruising down the highway, resulting in a better overall ride, but instantly brings them back online when they are needed for crisp handling. This option is very highly regarded by Cayenne owners in conjunction with the optional air suspension featuring PASM.
  23. JFP in PA
    You have to remember that all diagnostic scanners, regardless of origin or price, function more like a compass than a GPS unit; they can point you in the right direction, but you still have to apply basic diagnostic logic and experience to arrive at the correct answer to a problem. Well said! Thanks. I occasionally do have moments of lucidity............. :eek:
  24. JFP in PA
    Do you think it's easier to get it out? Hope you're right! :eek: After you have done your first dozen or so, you will fully understand; particularly if you are dealing with Tips in the 996 :thumbup:
  25. JFP in PA
    You have to remember that all diagnostic scanners, regardless of origin or price, function more like a compass than a GPS unit; they can point you in the right direction, but you still have to apply basic diagnostic logic and experience to arrive at the correct answer to a problem.
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