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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Good point.
  2. JFP in PA
    The OEM pads should be fine, and only replace the sensors if they need it (have illuminated the dash MIL), otherwise reuse them.
  3. JFP in PA
    I would tend to agree with Loren on this, the M96 engine is prone to oil bleed down over time which leads to noise at start up. In addition, this problem is exacerbated by rather low film strengths in some very low viscosity oils (0W-just about anything), particularly when they have some miles on them. You might want to consider an oil with known better film strength characteristics such as 5W-40 Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology, or the new Joe Gibbs DT 40, which is also a 5W-40. The DT40 is particularly interesting as it shows a significant improvement in low temperature viscosity retention with accumulated mileage when compared to the Mobil 1 product, and DT40 has very high levels of ZDDP. The chain tensioners are also somewhat problematic on these cars as well, and Porsche has updated the tensioners at least twice in an apparent attempt to address the problem of noise. If a better oil does not improve the situation, newer tensioners could be in your future.
  4. JFP in PA
    Also check that the headlight harness plugs are properly seated, and check the grounds as well.
  5. JFP in PA
    You need to be aware that Porsche's are famous for their unique diagnostic systems, which often lead to erroneous codes by non Porsche specific scan tools (PIWIS, Durametric). Before going further, I would get the car rescanned on a Porsche system.
  6. JFP in PA
    Sometimes the best advice is to simply go back to the last thing touched.
  7. JFP in PA
    You may need to give a dealer a call for part numbers once you have isolated the leaks.
  8. JFP in PA
    The first thing we would do would be to completely clean the engine and trans off, then run the car for a day and look at it again to see where the leak is. Quite often a small leak will look like it is coming from somewhere else because of the way the fluid spreads about. As for an exploded parts view, look up the Auto Atlanta website, find the parts diagram for your car, and you should find all the necessary part numbers. But you need to isolate exactly where the leaks are first.
  9. JFP in PA
    Boy, you have come up with a real gem of an issue. Rather than trying to rotate the assembly or blow the bits out, which may worsen the problems, probably your best bet short of pulling the cylinder head is going to be inserting a bore scope into the cylinders to see what is actually in there and where it is sitting. Then it is going to be a matter of jury rigging some retrieval tools (copper wire with double stick tape on the end, etc.) to go after what you find. It is going to be slow and tedious, but I think doable without dropping the engine. Once you get everything out you can find, I would still run a full leak down to make sure everything is OK.
  10. JFP in PA
    Welcome :welcome: Year and model would be helpful information.
  11. JFP in PA
    Anti seize will not bother anything, just don't go nuts applying it.
  12. JFP in PA
    If memory serves (I'm away from the shop at the moment), the C102 may indicate that a controller needs to be reset or possibly replaced. This cannot be done with the Durametric, it needs a PIWIS.
  13. JFP in PA
    There are several DIY's for this, this is a pretty good one: http://www.skylersrants.com/Porsche/Radiator/Radiator.html In addition to the 160 stat, you might consider the larger oil cooler and a third radiator if you car does not already have them.
  14. JFP in PA
    You could also clean out the collected debris in your radiators (always a problem on these cars), and install a 160F thermostat (always an excellent idea).
  15. JFP in PA
    Not easily, the fan control (on and off) if done by the DME software; to alter the temperatures, you would have to install an external control system of some sort, which a seriously doubt a dealer will do. Why do you want to alter the profile?
  16. JFP in PA
    Try shooting it with some PB Blaster or similar penetrating oil and let it sit for a bit; the sensor and the bore where it sits in the carrier are supposed to be coated with a moly lubricant to prevent them sticking, but they tend to do just that anyway. Once you get it out, be sure to clean the bore with a small brush and use either a good quality brake grease or anti seize compound to prevent it getting stuck again.
  17. JFP in PA
    I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right.... In real life, the item depicted in the drawing above looks like this: That's what I thought it was. The isometric perspective made me wonder if the image had been changed. No, the line drawing was to highlight the ridge in the center of the coupler, not all CPVC coupler's have it and it is critical to the success of using it to insert the seal.
  18. JFP in PA
    I can't quite be sure what I'm seeing here JFP in PA. This looks more like a line art illustration than an image. Maybe I'm just not looking at it right.... In real life, the item depicted in the drawing above looks like this:
  19. JFP in PA
    A 997-1 DME records the following rev ranges: Range 1: 7300-7500 RPM Range 2: 7500-7700 RPM Range 3: 7700-7900 RPM Range 4: 7900-8400 RPM Range 5: 8400-9500 RPM Range 6: 9500-11000 RPM Any data in ranges above 3rd (4,5,6) can be used by PCNA as a reason to cancel your warranty, in case of engine related issues. As this data is not easily altered or erased, I seriously doubt the dealer changed it. The OBD II codes are listed under the "DIY" tab heading at the top of this page, but may be limited to contributing members only.
  20. JFP in PA
    Glad it worked out for you; there as many parts on these cars that are Audi or VW components, which tend to be much cheaper than the same part in a Porsche logoed box. Always worth a quick look when sourcing replacements.
  21. JFP in PA
    Actually, in this case I believe the Durametric will not work because the problem is not a fault, but a system coding issue, which requires a PST II or PIWIS to correct.
  22. JFP in PA
    Well, I've always been an iconoclast in the oil department, depending more upon UOA's collected over the years than either Porsche or the oil manufacturer's hype. As the direct result, the shop uses two oils for the "Wasser gekühlt" M96/97 and 9A1 engines; for most applications we use Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology in a 10W-40 weight. For cars that see extreme cold, or a lot of track time, Joe Gibbs 5W-40. We have always liked the superior film strengths and life of the Castrol Syntec products, the Gibbs product is hard to beat for high ZDDP levels in a market where it seems to be disappearing from many oils. If we could get in locally, we would be evaluating the Castrol Pro Edge products, but as they are not available for general distribution in the US, that is still a future project.
  23. JFP in PA
    That obviously totally depends upon what happened to the engine during the first failure, some cases can be salvaged, some not. But all the "AT" engines are recycled used cases.
  24. JFP in PA
    All "AT" engines are to the original factory specs, particularly as there are no over sized rod or main bearings available for these engines.
  25. JFP in PA
    We use the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042 as our standard spin on, which retail for about $4.50-5.00 on sites like FleetFilter.com. You should also consider the Wix/NAPA Gold 51042XP which uses a totally synthetic filter media and sells at retail for about $3 more than the standard filter. Both have proven to be excellent filters and way cheaper than the way over priced K&N units.
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