JFP in PA

Rather doubt it as the fuel pump is pretty much a "plug and play" installation.

I think one of the major issues with some owners is that they are not ready or capable of undertaking at least some of the simpler repairs, and then end up trying to unload the car with a bunch of small and easily fixed problems because they received a horrendous estimate from a dealer. These cars are not particularly hard to work on, with certain exceptions, and most of the tools you purchase (like this one) can be used on just about any vehicle as well, so the investment is not "lost" if the car leave your stable at a later date.

Actually, there is a new design tool out that does an even better job (OTC 7135A or Great Neck 27175 are the same exact tool and can be found on Amazon for about $35):

Trying a replacement boot or boot cover on a tie rod end is often false economy as the internal damage is already done by the time you see it. Tie rod ends are not all that expensive or hard to replace, but you will need the correct tool to get it apart, and you will also need to at least have your alignment checked afterwards. The correct tie rod end tool looks like this:

This one is by Proform, and my personal favorite because all of the cutting wheels and bearings are replaceable:

True, but for the average DIY fix where it would only be used once or twice in its life, sometimes a cheaper but not as capable alternative fits the budget better.

Basically, but it gets the job done.

2005 was a transitional year for Porsche, some of the engine's had the serviceable (read replaceable) IMS bearing, while others carry the non serviceable (read total rebuild to change the IMS bearing). Unfortunately, there is no way to tell which bearing is in the car without pulling the trans and looking at it. If it is the non serviceable unit, remove the rear bearing seal and put the car back together. If the car carries the serviceable unit, upgrade the car to the LN replacement unit (now you can put a dual row LN replacement in a car that came with the OEM single row) and you are golden.

Motul is a good oil which performs well. Only downsides would be it can be pricey (what isn't these days) and not everyone carries it.

Just be aware that oil discussions often start off well with strong opinions backed up by well founded technical backgrounds, and then often promptly degrade into shouting matches and personal verbal assaults, which will not be tolerated on this site. Oil specs are critical, and often very, very confusing. With the US API moving from being the technical gatekeeper of the North American petroleum products markets to becoming the lobbying arm and public relations department, the people that produce the products are left to certify that their products meet the standards, with no independent verification or oversight. The API also allows the manufacturer's to substitute ingredients or even totally reformulate without retesting. The European ACEA, on the other hand, require that member's join their technical concord agreement (read spend serious money) and then submit finished products only to approved independent lab for testing to verify that they meet the ACEA specs (read expensive and time consuming). Under the ACEA technical concord, any formulation change, no matter how slight, requires resubmission and recertification before the product can bear the ACEA ratings. As the direct result of the cost of the ACEA protocols, and the fact that a lot of well known products do not fare well in them, a lot of smaller "blenders" do not have any ACEA ratings, nor do they participate in the stringent testing. This clouds the view even more; Joe Gibbs products are very well thought of by many people that both test used oil and understand the technology, but the Gibbs products are not ACEA, simply because they have chosen not to become ACEA members. Other well known brands use a marketing linguistic tricks to appear ACEA when they are not ("approved for use in ACEA applications" is one of my favorites; approved by whom?). So to get to your question, how do you know what to look for? Look for ACEA A3, B3, B4 ratings; products that meet these three ratings have ability to stand up to high heat/high shear conditions and still remain in grade (demonstrate the original viscosity ratings such as 10W-40). They also do well under fuel dilution events which are more common with direct injection engines.

The other thread was not marked solved, it was locked by the site owner after the postings went off topic and became personal in nature. Keep this thread on topic and unemotional and it will stay active...............

Check your fuel pressure, I have seen this happen when the pump gets marginal.

They are an aftermarket item, you can get them from Jegs, Summit Racing, and Amazon online:

Not a problem with the correct tool, but not everyone has one.

Just about everything is wired to the ignition switch in one fashion or another; the switch is a $15 part and an easy DIY replacement.

We have something that is like their chassis and engine ear combination kit, but from a different manufacturer. They are extremely useful for isolating noise sources, but the DIY'er can do something similar with a simple doctor's stethoscope for a lot less money. Not as elegant, but very practical for around $15:

OK guys, let's not turn this into a pissing contest; like I said, it was ancient history.................and it is over. :D

We have installed many of these, they are an excellent upgrade for the car. Along with about a 30% finer filter media, the spin on filter offers "full flow" filtration (read no by pass) at all times.

As weird as this may sound, try taking off the serpentine belt and run the engine (very briefly) to see if the sound goes away. If it does, check your water pump and other pulleys for looseness and/or noise.

The right way to do is with the car's suspension fully settled and loaded up on a drive on ramp style lift, but you could probably simulate that with a high enough set of drive on ground ramps as well.

Look, you kind of got off on the wrong foot with some of your comments, but that is now ancient history. As I mentioned earlier, there is a very broad base of technical expertise available on this site, but in spite of the numbers of very knowledgeable contributors, not every problem has been seen before. Rather than speculate, or give you bad information, we tend to sit tight to see if anyone has any direct experience with the specific problem at hand. The longer the lack of response, the higher the probability no one has encountered that specific problem before. Yours appears to fall into that category. It is not a matter of not wanting to answer, but Turbo Tip cars are not exactly an every day occurrence, even in a busy shop, and your problem is not a common one even with the numbers of Turbo Tips we do see. On 911 variants, it is often very difficult to work on the Tip with the engine in the car, there simply is no room to get at some things, particularly on a Turbo car, so the prevailing method is to drop the engine and trans as a unit to make it more accessible, it simply saves time. I would suggest that you ask your chosen shop why they want to drop it to replace the second gasket, their rational may be completely valid. In any case, I have never met anyone that would drop the engine and trans out of a 996 TT simply because they had nothing better to do.

Always a good idea, as is a small dab of anti seize on the plug threads when you put it back.

It is entirely possible that you correctly coded the first side you worked on, after which the other side crapped out, just by a coincidence of timing. These vehicles are well known for having coil pack related misfire issues; when we get one in, we always recommend doing all the coil packs and the plugs. That is often cheaper, and easier on the digestive system, then a repeat of the entire process.

On an S Boxster, yes. The six speed cars have an exaggerated axle angle as the suspension moves up and down, which leads to early CV joint issues.