JFP in PA

I'd like to see the cams, and particular the one throwing the code, checked for cam deviation angle. The deviation angle is the position of the cam relative to the crankshaft, and normally sit in the +/- 6 degree range at idle, then jump to around 25 degrees when the VarioCam kicks in; the deviation angle will tell if the cam is out of time or not. The Durametric can also activate the VarioCam system, one bank at a time, allowing you to see if it is functioning correctly. Here's an example from an early Boxster:

Do you have access to the Durametric software or a PST II?

Let's start with the basics: Year and model of the car? I know you list an early Boxster in your profile, is that the car? In any case, something concerns me; when you did the IMS swap, how did you retain the cam positions? In your photos, you show the cam slots as being off to one side: When the engine is at TDC, the slot in the cam should line up with the parting line in the cam covers: Quite often, when first setting the TDC position, the cam slots do not seem to line up, but what is happening is that the engine is not really at TDC and needs to be rotated clockwise only until the cams do line up and the locking tools cam be inserted; at times, you have to rotate the engine over a couple times to achieve this configuration:

It is extremely difficult to correctly diagnose a problems with such sparse information. I would assume the car threw codes when all this was going on, did you get the codes? At a minimum, you should have the car scanned with a Porsche specific system (PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric), collecting data on any active or pending codes, as well as fuel trims when the car is running. I would also check the car's fuel pressure and delivery rates. We need more factual input before even hazarding a guess as to what is going on.................

There isn't any way to do that unless you have someone bring a PIWIS to your location; the systems have to be coded to acknowledge each other and allow the car to start. If your immobilizer unit under the seat simply got wet, pull it out and open it up, rise it with isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry. Check the fuse in the immobilizer itself, replace if necessary. Once dry, they often fire right up...

Some manufacturer's put inserts in the box that come with new sensors that recommend against using any type of contact cleaners on the connector plugs on sensors, which leads me to believe that there is something in the harness connector for the sensor that is not compatible with this type of cleaner. You can try letting it dry out and see if it "heals", but be prepared for that not being the case. As for using the car with sensors not working or disconnected, the car may not really like that and protest by misfiring or going into a "limp" mode to protect itself. If the sensor does not recover, replace it and write it off to the learning curve......

You have a weird combination codes; two (0116 and 0128) point to the engine temp sensor and coolant thermostat signal plausibility problems (read the signal is either low in voltage or does not make sense), and the other two codes (0420 and 0430) say that the O2 sensors behind the three way cats on both banks are reading high voltage. As this started after going through a car wash, I have to wonder if either something in the harness either got pulled loose or got wet in the process.

Let's start with the year and model of the car please.................and some information about the scan tool used to read the posted codes as well. And for reference purposes, an explanation of the flash rates for the temp light: Covers all Carrera (996), GT3, TT / GT2 and Boxster (986) cars Here is the long explanation from the service manual on the flashing coolant light. "Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high -- light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high -- light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty -- light flashes rapidly (1 Hz) ; pointer on the right Note: The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously."

Ten by sixteen inches.

It is a basic "global" OBD II system, and will not read or access several of the common code areas (ABS, PSM, airbags, etc.) on Porsche due to the use of OEM proprietary software. Before spending $100 on this cell phone toy app, I would put the money towards the proven Durametric system, which is a close as you are going to get to the mighty PIWIS without spending nearly $20K.............

Take a look at the Wix/NAPA Gold 57211, a better made filter than the OEM stuff at a fraction of the price, and with about a 30% finer media pore diameter as well: And if you really want to make an improvement in your oil filtration, dump the OEM canister system and go to the LN spin on adaptor and "full flow" (100% filtration at all times, no by-pass) system, which can also benefit from the use of a Wix/NAPA Gold spin on filter that has the same advantages as the one mentioned above, and retails for less than $10, or even their new XP filter line with a full synthetic filter media.

Again, nothing unusual................

OK, I'll take it that the "remote" in the interior of the car is not hard wired to the unit in the engine bay. The "OEM correct" set up is a dash switch that is connected according to this factory wiring diagram for the factory installed PSE: The wiring from the switch runs to the PSE vacuum control unit in the engine bay (orange plug to the right of the power steering): And the factory dash control switch looks like this (the $25 OEM switch on the bottom): Having installed a couple of these, you are going to need to run wire from the dash to the engine bay, and that will need to be "fished" along the interior rocker panel area to the rear bulkhead and then through one of the bulkhead plugs I mentioned earlier to reach the engine bay, or ordering the PSE wiring harness (P/N 996 612 978 00) for under $20, and a dash switch ($25), and plugging it into the relay block.

Ummmm..........you just need to run the wire from the cell phone connector to the dash switch, not all the way to the rear of the car as the switch should already have one wire going back there. If you don't have any wires running to the back, there are multiple bulkhead rubber plugs that you can route the wiring through...........

They also have the other side (12036) which is the system test adaptor: Both of these were listed for years as covering mid sized Audi and many VW models, but they both work on the Cayenne.

Under the forward center console is a plug for the factory cell phone setup, which has an ignition switched lead. Plug wire colors: Brown = Ground, Red / Green = Switched 12 volts, Green / Black = Unswitched 12 volts, Yellow / Black = Telephone Mute. Tap into the Red/Green wire and you are in business.

Stant makes such an adaptor, but it is listed as for VW. He definitely needs to pressure test the system. So just to confirm, you're saying Stant makes an adapter to test the cap? There are plenty of alternatives for adapters to test the system. Yes, but it was listed in their system as for a VW/Audi (now corrected), which makes sense as the two vehicle's share a lot of components. We found out about it because we had one and noticed it fit and worked perfectly. Pressure Tester Adapter Type: Radiator cap 12037 Make:PORSCHE Model:CAYENNE Submodel:S Beginning Year:2003 Ending Year:2004 Engine Type:V8 Liter:4.5 CC:4511 Engine Size:4.5L/4511cc Engine Family:Porsche V8 Adapter Material (Application):Aluminum Adapter Finish (Application):Black anodized/Zinc plated

I would also note the code 54, which says the radio is not present, a common problem on cars with retrofitted audio system is the missing radio chassis ground.

Although I've not been inside the M96 engine, from my recollection of many 2.4L, 2.7L and 3.0L air cooled engines, these typically used an RTV-type case sealant. These pieces are sort of trandslucent, almost what I'd expect a piece of dried shellac or varnish to look like. Is that basically the sort of case sealant being used these days? And while I haven't checked any of these to see if they have any elastic property, I'd expect a dried, RTV-type sealant to still have some elasticity. Not always the case after exposure to heat cycling and oil, and Porsche uses more than one type of sealant in these engines.

First of all, for future reference, never rotate one of these engines counter clockwise, doing so can put this interference motor in a position it does not want to be and end up causing mechanical damage. Code P1531 is for no change in the cam angle on bank #1; as you have had the engine out of the car, I'd start by looking at the wiring and connectors for the VarioCam system and cam position sensor on bank #1, it may simply be disconnected.

When altering the Turbos or waste gate controls, you can only "guesstimate" the power level changes; what you need to do is test the components on a prober chassis dyno to find out what the real numbers end up at.

Stant makes such an adaptor, but it is listed as for VW. He definitely needs to pressure test the system.

+1, I would concur; this stuff is rather a common occurrence and nothing to be overly concerned about.

Here's a set made by a company called "Race Ramps"; but I am sure there are others:

We use BendPak lifts, both because of their quality reputation, service support, and the vast number of optional accessories they make for all their lifts. For the four post lifts, they offer everything from adjustable drip pans to keep leaky cars in the overhead position from dripping on the car below, to sliding jack pads that allow you to pick up the car on the rack for service purposes, and they even make a "double wide" four post that allows you to store or work on four cars in a two car area: We have a couple of customer's with four post that do a lot of their own maintenance and detailing work with the car jacked up on the upper rack, and they seem completely happy with the way the system works. The only down side I can see to the 4 posters is getting cars like my C4S on the lift without damaging their noses. 10 foot 2x 12S might work. JFP probably just uses a 2 poster for thes cars but he may have a recommendation on how to do this safely?? You can use wooden or even rubber ramps to augment the ramps that come on the four post lifts to keep the nose off the lift while loading. Probably the worst case scenario I have personally seen is a customer with a 458 Italia Spyder Ferrari, which has the unenviable combination of a very low stance and long front overhang: The owner had to purchase a set of commercially made long rubber ramps just to get the car into his driveway, and subsequently found that they were also perfect for getting it onto the four post as well. Sometime you have to improvise; after all, "speed cost money, how fast do you want to go?"