JFP in PA

That would totally depend upon how many spline teeth it is off on the shaft; more often than not, one spline is either not enough or too much wheel rotation. Adjusting the tie rods is infinitely variable.

No, there is no intermediate shaft in the 9A1.

The easiest way is to center the wheel while the car is sitting on an alignment rack, and then readjust the tie rod ends on the steering rack until the wheels are correctly aligned. I'd suggest this is a job best left to the pro's unless you have an alignment rack in your garage........... Talk with your service advisor at Barrier, they might just do it for nothing.

If the AT engine was fitted after early 2005, it carries the non serviceable bearing. Unfortunately, unless you can narrow that date down, there is no way to know without looking at the IMS center bolt. JFP, what set up does the 991 engine use, particularly the Turbo if you happen to know?? Sure; Porsche stopped production of the legendary, but dated, Metzger lump which has been the mainstay for Turbo, GT, and race car engines for a lot of years. The 991 Turbo uses a variant of the 9A1 direct injection engine that is common in all of the later model cars.

Not completely, common problem area is the floor pan, sills, and the battery tray areas. Once they start, you need some new sheet metal:

Moto, If you can find one in good shape the 944 Turbo is a great ride. I think JFP will agree that the motor in that car is as bullet proof as they get as long as they have not been modified and have been maintained properly. And the body has not rusted to dust.............

If the AT engine was fitted after early 2005, it carries the non serviceable bearing. Unfortunately, unless you can narrow that date down, there is no way to know without looking at the IMS center bolt.

Because we do it for a living, we often see people that try to make maintenance or repair decisions on one of these cars on a price basis alone. Unfortunately, when someone starts down that pathway, the journey often unhappily takes them somewhere other than where they intended to go, and sometimes leaves them with a bad taste in their mouth. These cars are neither cheap to buy, or maintain; and they have to be maintained. Owning a Porsche is a commitment, both to enjoy driving one of these superbly engineered vehicles, and having both the means and mindset to maintain it as it was designed to be kept. If you are ready to make that commitment, it can be memorable journey..............

Imagine the long USB cable hooked up to a tower so that it can reach multiple bays, and the tower to a large flat screen that can be swiveled so you can see it, makes life really easy, particularly when the tower is connected to your backup server that stores copies of client data files................. :thumbup: Now if you connected the Durametric cable's USB plug into a wireless bridge with power for the USB port, and the tower on the other end setup to receive the signal, you could make the leap to a wireless connection. Of course with the flat screen TV professional setup like you have, I can definitely see that :) I did think about the wireless brige with powered USB port setup like you said. Just never had the time to make one yet. Also, the stock (short) cable will still dangle from the dongle even with that setup. It would be nice if Durametric comes out with something similar to those low-profile bluetooth dongles that completely eliminate any cord. I have several OEM scan tools that have bluetooth dongles I never use them. Bluetooth may be for looking at PIDs but coding/locking modules no way! I guess I am also too lazy to unplug my ethernet cable from the pass though tool. Call me old school but hardwired is the only way to go. What are you going to do when OBD III shows up? No connector plug to hardwire to.................... :help:

Having to depress the clutch to start the car is a North American trait mandated by the Feds to keep the unwary from driving through the back wall of their garage and into the family room because they forgot to depress the pedal. Been that way since the late 1960's. A grey market car would not have it.

Item # 17

Or you could be totally adventuresome and use Joe Gibbs DT 40 5W-40, which is a much better oil to begin with.

I can't use a cable as short as 5 meters. Durametric does not run at that speed, it is slower, you can use a long USB cable without problems. We have one over 30ft. and it works fine.

Imagine the long USB cable hooked up to a tower so that it can reach multiple bays, and the tower to a large flat screen that can be swiveled so you can see it, makes life really easy, particularly when the tower is connected to your backup server that stores copies of client data files................. :thumbup: Now if you connected the Durametric cable's USB plug into a wireless bridge with power for the USB port, and the tower on the other end setup to receive the signal, you could make the leap to a wireless connection.

Good point; we use a tower in the shop, so a long cable is handy. We also use it on a laptop for data acquisition during a road test, or for use on road side service calls.

You really do not need the Durametric long cable, any quality USB cable will work just fine as an extension to the standard length Durametric cable, and save you some money.

Probably 10W-40.

Loren, Could you please tell me which test I can run with the Durametric and what I should be looking for? I ran everything I saw that looked remotely linked to the fuel system. Biggest challenge is I'm not familiar with what I should be looking for to detect a leak. I would take it to your local Porsche shop and tell them that you've replaced the gas cap but you suspect a leak in the fuel tank ventilation system. If they have a PIWIS they can do a leakage test and pinpoint the problem - a frequent culprit is the fuel tank ventilation system which If you are a DIY person read this: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Porsche-996-997-Carrera/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve/106-FUEL-Replacing_Your_Fuel_Line_Vent_Valve.htm Thank you roadsession. I would prefer to learn how to find the leak with the Durametric, which I purchased so I wouldn't have to take the car to the shop. Again, if anyone is familiar with how to do this with the Durametric, I'd really appreciate it if you could share that process. The Durametric can tell you that you have a leak, finding it requires other diagnostics (smoke machine, individually testing various devices with a handheld vacuum pump, etc.). The Durametric is like a compass rather than a GPS, it can point you in the correct direction, but it cannot always pinpoint what needs to be addressed; that is up to the diagnostic skills of the operator. As Loren already pointed out: "P0456 Fuel Tank Ventilation System (Minor leak) - Below Limit Possible fault cause - Tank cap seal - One or several leaks in fuel tank ventilation system Check the o-ring on the gas cap too. In a few rare cases the EVAP canister purge valve cracks or leaks."

The car is acting as though the cam timing is off, or that the DME at least thinks it is, which pretty much amounts to the same thing with the exception that actual mechanical deviation can lead to physical engine damage. You need to get the car hooked up to either the Durametric system, or one of Porsche's systems (PST II or PIWIS) and collect some cam angle data to determine where you are; I know of no other aftermarket diagnostic tool that can be counted on to dependably generate this data.

I'd like to see the cams, and particular the one throwing the code, checked for cam deviation angle. The deviation angle is the position of the cam relative to the crankshaft, and normally sit in the +/- 6 degree range at idle, then jump to around 25 degrees when the VarioCam kicks in; the deviation angle will tell if the cam is out of time or not. The Durametric can also activate the VarioCam system, one bank at a time, allowing you to see if it is functioning correctly. Here's an example from an early Boxster:

Do you have access to the Durametric software or a PST II?

Let's start with the basics: Year and model of the car? I know you list an early Boxster in your profile, is that the car? In any case, something concerns me; when you did the IMS swap, how did you retain the cam positions? In your photos, you show the cam slots as being off to one side: When the engine is at TDC, the slot in the cam should line up with the parting line in the cam covers: Quite often, when first setting the TDC position, the cam slots do not seem to line up, but what is happening is that the engine is not really at TDC and needs to be rotated clockwise only until the cams do line up and the locking tools cam be inserted; at times, you have to rotate the engine over a couple times to achieve this configuration:

It is extremely difficult to correctly diagnose a problems with such sparse information. I would assume the car threw codes when all this was going on, did you get the codes? At a minimum, you should have the car scanned with a Porsche specific system (PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric), collecting data on any active or pending codes, as well as fuel trims when the car is running. I would also check the car's fuel pressure and delivery rates. We need more factual input before even hazarding a guess as to what is going on.................

There isn't any way to do that unless you have someone bring a PIWIS to your location; the systems have to be coded to acknowledge each other and allow the car to start. If your immobilizer unit under the seat simply got wet, pull it out and open it up, rise it with isopropyl alcohol and allow it to dry. Check the fuse in the immobilizer itself, replace if necessary. Once dry, they often fire right up...

Some manufacturer's put inserts in the box that come with new sensors that recommend against using any type of contact cleaners on the connector plugs on sensors, which leads me to believe that there is something in the harness connector for the sensor that is not compatible with this type of cleaner. You can try letting it dry out and see if it "heals", but be prepared for that not being the case. As for using the car with sensors not working or disconnected, the car may not really like that and protest by misfiring or going into a "limp" mode to protect itself. If the sensor does not recover, replace it and write it off to the learning curve......