JFP in PA

Son of a gun!! I found a picture of the engine with the oil pan off. The oil pan is the tank! There are two baffles on either side of the oil pick up which is dead center pointing to the front. The return is on the right side. The crank case is entirely walled off. As far as I can tell there is absolutely no direct communication between the crankcase and the oil tank. The crank case must empty into the return. The baffles keep the oil from sloshing around. I believe (but am not absolutely sure) that under operation there is no air at all in the tank. The return is very large and I would bet there is a fairly large cavity above it that must contain several liters of oil. They must get the oil level up there because there is no way they are getting it in a horizontal tank that can't be more than 3 inches thick. Got a link to that picture?

The CH 11 S was the original fluid, later discontinued, but now available again.

The correct fluid for the car is Pentosin CH11 S, available on line and from many retail auto parts outlets as well.

A total "flush" of the system requires disconnecting the low pressure return line under the car, and then adding fluid in the engine bay while turning the steering back and forth with the car idling until clean fluid comes out. It is a two person job, and you need to be careful not to let the pump run dry during the process as they do not like that, and the pump is expensive. There are aftermarket firms that make quick disconnect fittings with filters and magnets to cut into that line that will make future service a much easier affair: An easier, and perhaps more practical approach would be to simply siphon off all the fluid you can get out of the reservoir and pump, refill the system, then drive the car a short distance and repeat the process. Unless the existing fluid is really in bad shape, this is probably all you need to do. As part of our normal annual service protocol, we drain and refill the power steering reservoir on all the cars we service. While not replacing all the fluid, or flushing out all the debris, it does continuously replace most of the old and dirty fluid in the system on a regular basis, at very little cost.

Before I would be unbolting anything, I would be doing some of the suggested diagnostics to see if the sensors are working correctly; if you swap the cats and it was one of the sensors, you will be no better off than you are right now, but a lot more dirty and tired. And if you swap out all the sensors, and it was the cats, you would be in the same position, but out a lot of money unnecessarily. Silver_TT is spot on about the old cats, they should have no moving parts and make no sound when you shake them.

Not to throw gas on the fire, but the Mezger engine, while a mechanical marvel and piece of engineering art work, is a dated design and very costly and time consuming to produce. At the end of the day, Porsche needed to go DFI to continue the performance evolution on the Turbos, which would have meant a costly redesign of an already expensive old design. So instead, they went with a modified 9A1 production engine instead. How well that decision will play out, only history will tell. I remain circumspect about the loss of the dry sump system. Besides providing better oil control under high G loads, dry sump systems do a far superior job of deaerating the oil before returning it to the engine, helping to cool the oil, as well as eliminating any chance of crank shaft windage from oil sloshing about in the sump. Granted, there are other ways of helping to control windage, but dry sumps eliminate it, which is why they are common on many types of race engines. Until I have a chance to see what else they have done internally to the 9A1 to control the problems that a dry sump would have eliminated, I will continue to question the logic of going this route. It really seems like the wrong direction.

SilverTT, there is absolutely no question that the most economical way to get a Metzer is by getting a 996 TT. The Metzger is a wonderful engine and time may show that it was Porsche's best. On the other hand technology moves on and there is a growing group who believe the 991 version of the 9A1 is fully up to snuff. The GT3 version is winning hearts and souls by the minute. The advantage of the dry sump system in the older cars was that it insured a constant oil supply under high lateral G's. It of course required the use of a separate oil tank which takes up space and adds additional plumbing to a car that has more than its fair share. It is entirely possible to design a block and sump to prevent oil starvation under any circumstance which is exactly what Porsche has said it has done. Which means there is absolutely no advantage in having a dry sump. I for one will be quite happy not to have to pull two drain plugs every time I change the oil. This years racing season will pretty much determine the viability and reliability of the new 9A1. Porsche is back in the field and staking its honor on it! As we mostly work on our lifts, jacking up the car is not a common event; but when we do need to, we put aftermarket jacking pads into the car's jack point bayonet fittings, and then lift each side with a floor jack, then set the car on jack stands with hockey pucks on the top to prevent marring anything.

The hose connection at the rail is a push on, single use barbed fitting that requires cutting and shortening the line to reuse it. Often, there simply is not enough line to accommodate this. So it looks like you need to go under the car.

The cross over line from rail to rail should not be disconnected as it is a single use item. If you look at this diagram: You want to disconnect line #8 either at the rail or beneath the car.

Do as search here for a contributor that goes by the name of "Porschelibrarian", he often has access to this kind of thing.

You are going to have to search on flea bay and the like, that stuff is no longer in print.

TSB's are listed under the "DIY Tools" tab at the top of the page, but I do not belewive what you are looking for is a TSB, but rather a workshop manual supplement: Anti-lock Braking System 45 IMPORTANT NOTES ON TROUBLESHOOTING AND ON THE ABS TEST PROGRAM A test program with ABS tester must be carried out after certain repairs to the *** (see Function testing, page 45 - 06). ABS Test Plan, Sheet No. WKD 493 710 is required for this test and for troubleshooting.

JFP, Snap On makes several 3/4 drive torque wrenches. Is there any particular model you like?? You didn't happen to take a look under it's back side? Still wondering how I'm going to jack it's tail up to get jack stands under it. What color was the one you drove and what do you think, not that I can change anything. At this point the specs are locked in. Absolute power corrupts absolutely. :drive: Car was Rhodium Silver Metallic Turbo "S", black leather with white stitching. Very attractive looking combination. I also like the dash layout and smaller sized steering wheel, makes getting in and out a bit easier. I actually had the car up on a lift; still uses side jack points (I have never been one for trying to lift the entire rear end by one jack point). When I had it up in the air is when I noticed the wet sump, which was confirmed by the Porsche zone rep that was driving the car. I prefer the Snap On QD4R400 80-400 ft. lb. unit, used one for years and as with other Snap On's holds its accuracy well: http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=640967&group_ID=675227&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

No, it is better to test the sensors before doing any parts changing; too many people assume it is the sensor, which are expensive, and start swapping parts before they really know what is wrong. If you have access to a Porsche specific scan tool (PIWIS or Durametric), you can read the sensor output from the scan tool. If you do not have the scan tool, you can still read the sensor voltages using a digital multimeter. You can also ask the Porsche shop that has been working on the car what sensor readings they got when testing the car. Here' some background information on how the sensors and cats interact, both correctly and when the cats go bad and would throw the 0430 code. The data if from a Boxster, the your car would work exactly the same:

I can see the problem being the cats, but not from back pressure. The DME is expecting to see a certain conversion rate (mentioned above) differential measurement between the O2 sensors before and after the cats; the code you are getting is exactly for that. How back pressure figures into that problem would require an explanation from whomever is working on your car, but the code is for a low conversion rate, a common occurrence when a cat is dead or dying. Before changing out the cats, be sure the sensors are working correctly.

I had an opportunity to put in a little seat time in one of the new Turbos today (demo unit at a local dealer). Overall, a very impressive ride; the car seems to have a more poised balance than a two year old Turbo cab that I had out a year or so back. The PCCB brakes are, well, the PCCB brakes; hit 'em hard enough at speed and you will find yourself hanging in the shoulder harness and slowing down too early for the next turn in. As others have noted, the new steering is a bit dead, but that is unfortunately common to most electric systems. As the weather is brutally cold (10F) here at the moment, the summer tires were not at all happy about what was going on, but they still showed reasonable quality grip even in the winter cold, probably a testament to the four wheel drive, but I would not really push them hard for obvious reasons. With each experience, I am becoming more taken with the PDK, particularly when a car like this is at full boil; shift points tend to come at you pretty fast and the paddles help you keep focus on what is in front of you. The power pours on fairly smoothly from almost any RPM range, but if you have the car north of about 3-4 K RPM's in first and mash it, you had better have a good grip on something, its reputation for being the fastest accelerating Turbo yet is well earned. On the down side, I was a little disappointed to find out that the true dry sump oiling system of the Mezger style engine's is gone from these 9A1 variant equipped cars. These engines now use the same "Porsche Integrated Dry Sump" (read really a wet sump) that is common to every 9A1 model from the Boxster on up. I'm looking forward to seeing one of these new Turbo engines opened up to what else has changed inside the business department.

It was probably overfilled to begin with. If you now have filled it to the correct level using the factory recommended methods, I would not worry about it.

Your tensioners could have bled down while the car was sitting. If it does not clear up, it bears further investigation..........

Sounds like you are in good shape.

Your tester is fine and should work with any glycol based system. Porsche antifreeze is glycol based, but employ's advanced OAT type technology to give it long life, which it has in abundance. Trick with OAT style antifreeze is that not all of them are compatible with each other, and mixing sometimes leads to gel particle formation which is a major pain to clean out of the system. As long as you stay with Porsche brand antifreeze and distilled water, you will have no problems as they have been very good in making any new and improved versions totally compatible with their earlier products.

"Shorting" the antifreeze is a common dealer prep trick to save some money. Problem you face is how to get a little over a gallon of new antifreeze introduced and then fully mixed into the balance. As the coolant tank holds nowhere near that amount by itself, you are going to need to drain some out of the system just to get it all in. Once you get to that juncture, you might as well dump the entire charge, correctly premix fresh with distilled water, and recharge the system, preferably under vacuum. While that may sound excessive, if they shorted the mix, they probably also did not use DI or distilled water either, so even if you did manage to get the glycol level up to where it needs to be, the charge would still end up being short lived if they did not use distilled water due to the salts now in the system. Dump it and do it correctly, and you should not have any problems for many, many years.

Not completely, common problem area is the floor pan, sills, and the battery tray areas. Once they start, you need some new sheet metal: That is certainly a little more than surface rust. Is that a North East Car? With the sill gone like that the car is pretty much toast. I guess it was a good thing I totaled mine :-) Have you seen a 90s era 911 rust like that?? Yes, that is a car from these parts. Once the salts they dump all over the roads get a foothold, it does not take long. The later cars do much better, probably because of the use of better steels and surface treatments to protect the metal.

Glad you got it sorted. I know Porsche has a Motorsports clutch assembly which fits your car, and uses an un sprung disc, but was under the impression that they normally do not deliver street cars with this assembly in them. The "marcel" springs he is referring to are in between the two clutch friction material faces: Most stock and HD clutches have what is called a Marcel spring. This is a wavy flat spring that is bonded to the friction material, and then riveted to the disc itself. You can see it when looking at a clutch disc on its edge. The marcel acts like a cushion, smoothing out the final engagement of the friction material by allowing the clamping forces to build up a little slower. When the clutch is fully engaged, the marcel smashes flat and has no effect. The marcel is removed from racing-type and metallic clutches for two reasons. The marcel prevents the friction material from being 100% bonded to the disc, reducing burst strength and it also increases engagement travel, possibly slowing shifts which is a little harder on the syncro's.

I'm not so sure about that, this is the OEM Porsche clutch kit for your car: There are several aftermarket discs that are available unsprung: And even some multiple disc setups as well: But your factory clutch disc should be sprung............ Your car is a GT2 correct, not an RS car?

I think your second choice is a good one, it offers higher clamping force but should retain better drivability on the street. Some tend to forget about why most street discs are sprung; they "soften" the take up on the drive line as you first pull away, and at every gear change. On a race car, no one cares about clutch chatter and increased driveline noise, you only car about how fast and how durable the system is. But on the street, it ain't always about how fast; sometimes you want to turn on the air, crank up some tunes, and drive somewhere comfortably without having the fillings shaken out of your teeth when you pull away from every stop light. The major difference in this area when looking at a Metzger vs. a non Metzger comes into play both in components and engine assembly technique. The Metzger engines use a true forged steel crank, which is much stronger than the non Metzger's have, so they can stand up better to the harmonics. If you saw a Metzger crank out of the engine case and tapped it with a metal object, it would ring like a bell. The nodular iron crank would make a clunking sound when you did the same thing. Two different worlds. Secondly, the Metzger engines are also fully internally balanced, which reduces dramatically the harmonic stresses on the rotating assembly. You are also correct in that the RS (and the RSR) units have a single mass flywheel, which was also balanced with the engine assembly from the factory, as they were designed to be more a race car that happens to be on the street, and can get away with less dampening for the reasons I mentioned. It is also why some notice that a Metzger car seems smoother than a non Metzger car; it actually is, but for some very expensive reasons.