JFP in PA

LN used to show a picture of both flanges on their website, the differnece is quite noticable.

Check your sway bar mounts and end links.

Again, if any of the lines on the window work, all should work unless somewhere in the window lines there is a break in the ribbon. The window grid is a simply DC heater tape with current flowing through it, it has a single electrical connection on each side. I would suggest you get a magnifying glass and closely examine the lines that are not heating, some where on them is a break in the tape.

There has been some supposition that may be the case, but I have not seen any definitive proof of that one way or the other.

Won't do you much good as 2000 and 2001 M96 engine's can go either way, some were single row, others dual row. Unfortunately, there is no known way to tell which is in the engine without taking it apart and looking. A bit late getting back to you J-F on your response (merci!) but my car is an early production (Aug 99) 2000, so I feel quite comfortable it is a dual-row. If not, I would be extremely surprised. At any rate, excellent tip on these wear pads, something else to me mindfull of in the not-so-far term. Salut! From experience, we have that build date does not seem to come into play on which type of bearing is in the car. We have seen early 2000 cars with single rows in them, and late 2001 cars with dual rows. That is why you need to look before buying parts.

They move the wheels outward slightly, usually to accommodate larger wheels and tires clearance around suspension components, or simply to get a "look".

On vehicles that are taken apart, or came in with coolant leaks, we usually first pressure test to 20 PSIG for at least 15 min. once reassembled, then pull max vacuum (~26-27 inches) for an additional 15 min. before recharging.

If individual lines on the defroster are out, it is the lines on the glass and not an electrical problem elsewhere. And please do not "bump", it is against forum rules.............

The bolt on the left is aftermarket and for use with wheel spacers, the bolt on the right is OEM.

Brighter bulbs tend to be hotter running bulbs, which often discolor or even melt the lenses in these cars.

Here ya go... if I knew which one of these codes cancels the water temp gauge fault it would be extremely helpful. BTW: the reason I have so many engine faults is that the Porsche engine is gone (LS3 V8 is the replacement) so most of these are N/A, I think. But one or more will cancel the water temp gauge fault. As you can see none of the faults would seem to have anything to do with the water temp, expansion level sensor, or the engine room blower? Thanks, Screenshot 2014-05-02 10.18.08.png If most of the codes are moot anyway, why not just clear everything, see if the temp gauge starts working, and what codes resurface. That is exactly what happens, I clear the codes, the temp gauge comes back online, until it faults again with the same codes that I had previously erased. There doesn't seem to be anyway to narrow the codes down, it's all or nothing. I've got a call into the lead tech at the San Antonio Porsche dealer to see if their PST2 code reader will cancel one code at a time. I doubt that it will... Thanks for your reply. I'm afraid you are going to find most system dump them all at one time.

Here ya go... if I knew which one of these codes cancels the water temp gauge fault it would be extremely helpful. BTW: the reason I have so many engine faults is that the Porsche engine is gone (LS3 V8 is the replacement) so most of these are N/A, I think. But one or more will cancel the water temp gauge fault. As you can see none of the faults would seem to have anything to do with the water temp, expansion level sensor, or the engine room blower? Thanks, Screenshot 2014-05-02 10.18.08.png If most of the codes are moot anyway, why not just clear everything, see if the temp gauge starts working, and what codes resurface.

Without references from people that have used them, it is a total crap shoot. Some know what they are doing, while others look or sound like it but really do not.

For cars without the 4th stalk on the lower left of the steering wheel, there is a way to activate it and install the 4th stalk to let you see outside temp, avg mpg, avg speed, miles to empty and I think a speed gong to let you know when you're driving over a pre-set limit. You can also activate it and put a switch somewhere within reach that lets you scroll through the information screens. Sorry I can't help the OP's question. Actually, that only works with 2000 and earlier cars; if you activate the OBC in a 2001 and later using a PST II, PIWIS, or the Durametric Pro system, there will be no display until either the stalk or some other substitute switch is wired into the system, then the display will appear.

Bad grounds are worse than a loose wire or connector, and harder to isolate.

You could test the potentiometers separately, but I doubt it. Problem with trying to read the voltages at the DME, that is not going to be easy with everything connected, which is why the factory put the pin out box into the circuit so you can use a volt meter with everything still connected. You could still have a failing DME, but I keep going back to being able to alter what is going on by wiggling wires, that just smacks of a connection or wire issue.

You should always include the car year and model, as well and any pertinent modifications (later engine, altered wiring harness, custom DME flash, etc..) when opening up one of these dialogs. It would appear that your DME has lost contact with your TPS, which is why the live values do not move. I am also concerned that you can correct a "sticking throttle" by wiggling wires about, that also looks like a bad connection issue. Unfortunately, the factory method for checking TPS circuits involves using a rare and expensive factory "pin out box" to check various circuits for correct voltage ranges, etc. in order to trace down the fault(s).

Yours is a three chain motor and will not have these pads.

Some of the early Boxsters suffered from fueling issues caused by the flap problem, which was often cured by checking a fuse (the number of which escapes me at the moment). These problems have also been traced to EVAP valve problems as well.

Oil selection and shorter intervals will help, but these wear pads should be considered maintenance items, not unlike the brake pads or clutch disc. Eventually, they will need changing. Does this apply to the later 996 models with the 3.6L engine? Good oil and more frequent changes applies to all Porsches, but if you are refering to the five chain cam wear pads, that depends upon the year as not all had them.

LN is the way to go, there are a lot of newcomers pushing alternatives these days, but the LN product is the only proven unit.

Won't do you much good as 2000 and 2001 M96 engine's can go either way, some were single row, others dual row. Unfortunately, there is no known way to tell which is in the engine without taking it apart and looking.

Oil selection and shorter intervals will help, but these wear pads should be considered maintenance items, not unlike the brake pads or clutch disc. Eventually, they will need changing.

If you are doing the clutch and flywheel, replace the IMS and RMS, and update your AOS as it is out in the open with the trans out.

My space in the Cartesian coordinates of life if to try and fix these cars faster than my customers can break them, which has not been always easy. For anyone other than an oil company with a good research lab at their disposal, it would be prohibitively expensive to develop and maintain a continuous analysis of all the possible products and substitutes on the street. Early in my corporate career, I worked for what was then one of the major oil company's R&D center, and I can attest from experience how difficult in is to stay on top of such a cross reference, particularly when most compounders are altering their formulations fairly regularly, for both economic and technical reasons. This would be impossible for an individual or a shop to attempt to replicate on an ongoing basis. But what we can do is share what we have learned, often a some expense itself. As I said, you made an interesting shot at comparing the fluids, but I simply wanted to caution you and other readers to not accept limited technical data as gospel evidence that the products were an exact match, and thereby a guarantee nothing could go wrong. We have had customers that used all sorts of ATF, some with success, others not so much. I think some of the time, the products they have tried are "close enough" that nothing really bad happened. At the end of the day, any individual owner can choose to go any pathway they like, it is their car and their money. As a business owner, I have to pursue a more cautious route; if we do not have direct experience with a given product, we don't put it in customer's cars until we do (often, by testing it in our own vehicles first), and know it is at least as good, if not better than what we were using. My livelihood depends upon that level of certainty.