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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Here's the OBD II test instructions for the Boxster and 996:
  2. John, that file applies for Boxsters as well (the file is for Cayenne)? They are very similar in terms of how to test the sensor, but some of the other info is Cayenne specific. Just about all CPS sensors are simple Hall Effect units, so they work the same.
  3. Hi Following this thread since the start..... i have a leak in a couple of places (water pump, front passenger wheel well (RHD car), and elbow hose near pump). I haven't got the car up properly yet to have a look but plan to install new pump, LNtstat and hoses etc. Some very good suggestions on this thread which i will definitely take up, ask questions and report back once i have all parts above to start the job. Just in relation to the LN thermostat, i did read the following on the website when ordering; 'Even if you have cleaned out your radiators, please be advised, some late-model cars do not report actual coolant temperature, so some users will not see any visible change in operating temperature when fitted with a 160F low temperature thermostat.' I must admit, if i hadn't seen this, when i eventually fit it and it runs at what appears to be the same temp, i would have felt like i had been taken for a ride / something else wrong!! I continually have my eye on the temp and oil gauges and it is almost at the compulsive stage! I need to let go. What will be will be! Thanks Rich The problem with the dash display is its gross inaccuracy, you rarely see a car where the actual running temp and dash display showing the same temperatures. Consider the temp gauge little more than an idiot light that moves; it won't tell you much except in extreme situations.
  4. Possible that the oil has broken down as the 997.2's tend to run hot. Try an oil change and send out a sample of the old stuff to see what condition it is in.
  5. Sorry, wrong link, try this one: http://www.knclub.ru/f/attachments/30084d1327573405-p0336.pdf
  6. http://www.knclub.ru...73405-p0336.pdf
  7. Actually, it often the other way around. There are more camshaft sensors than crank position sensors in these cars, which is why the aftermarket stock them. Besides which, a failing cam position sensor would throw codes, while a failing crank position sensor rarely does, it just shuts off the fuel pump because it thinks the engine is not turning over. Test the crank sensor.
  8. I think about the best you are going to find is just a wiring diagram, Porsche has never been really big on publishing "how it works" for any of their components, particularly their electronics.
  9. Re-flush the system. If there was any chance your previous work got any air into the ABS/PSM system, cycle the ABS pump and control network while flushing.
  10. I think your biggest issue is going to be the CAN bus system differences between the 2000 chassis and the 2002 engine and its DME. In 2000, CAN bus existed, but very little was communicating over it; by 2002, a lot was happening on the bus for the 7.8 DME, and that is one area where you are going to have a lot of compatibility issues. This will not be an easy swap without a lot work, including the differences in the fuel systems. You might want to contact a poster here named Todd Holyoak (called "tholyoak"), who has done this type of swap for more details on what you need to do.
  11. Disconnect all electrical power to it by unplugging it or pulling out fuses. You want to see if it is a source of high current draw while the car is running, which is difficult without very specific instrumentation, next best thing is to kill it electrically and see what happens.
  12. It is possible. You should have the people that are looking at the car now look it over for obvious problems and possibly even disconnect it from the electrical circuit for a day or two to see if there is any change.
  13. P1117 and 1121 are both heater circuit faults for the sensors, and it is odd that you are getting them on both sides after doing related work. Check the resistance on both sensors by pulling the connector and measuring the resistance between pins 1 and 2 on each; you should see 1.8-2.5 ohms. If you don't, the sensor heaters are bad; but if you do, you have a wiring connection issue.
  14. Ahsai is right, don't go over pressuring these systems. If you suspect your have a leak up front, an excellent alternative is to add some Uview UV dye to the cooling system a few days before pulling the bumper, then when you do a black light will quickly show you where the leaks are: We use this stuff to find small or hard to locate leaks in the cooling system, and the dye will not bother anything.
  15. Temps are still a bit low. Normally, if you clear codes, the SAI takes a while to reset to "ready" status, so what you are seeing is unusual.
  16. I'd would run a leak down test on the cylinders in question; anything beyond 10% is problematic.
  17. Something is not right, once the engine is warmed up to a steady state, the oil should always be hotter than the coolant, which is why the car has an oil to coolant cooler system.
  18. Welcome to RennTech! :welcome: The hose in the right-hand photo above is the vent for the battery. The missing part at the base of the headlight is for the headlight washer assembly (pops up when activated).
  19. Be glad they had one. The Autologic unit is one of the most capable aftermarket systems for European brands; unfortunately, it is also one of the most expensive as well. The base unit is north of $10K, fully loaded with all the modules to do Porsche's brings it in at over $60K, not including very stiff annual update contracts, which is why they are few and far between, enough so to be considered nearly non existent. They are also very weak on coverage for Asian brands, which are dominant in the aftermarket repair business. For that amount of money, you can lease a true PIWIS for several years. Dealerships (and shops) charge by time increment's; some dealers use 30 min. slices, others full hours only. Most shops work on 15 min. time intervals to keep prices down.
  20. This is a clear picture of what the terminal area of the starter looks like: The wire with the "hook" is the solenoid trigger wire.
  21. I'm afraid you are going to find that most of the back of the car is only available as one harness section. Unless you want to keep the car totally factory, you will need to cut, splice, and heat shrink wrap replacements for the burned sections.
  22. Porsche only made very large sections the main harness system as one piece, and those large sections tend to be very expensive as well as time consuming to replace. What problem(s) are you trying to solve by replacing it?
  23. Sorry, but I cannot see or tell anything from that photo................
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