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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. First of all, I am not a big fan of "hub" dyno's as they have not shown me a reasonable level of reproducibility. Secondly, I would only dyno a AWD car intact on a four wheel roller set up, rather than trying to compensate for the hub dyno's short comings, otherwise you could end up with misleading data.
  2. It also helps if you have a very light coating of white lithium grease on the input shaft and throw-out bearing collar.
  3. Quite often, I find that wiggling the trans slightly while pushing it towards the engine helps. These things can be a pain in the butt to go back, or they simply just drop into place; like Forest Gump's box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.
  4. Take a break and look at the engine and trans from all sides; quite often, we see problems due to either the trans or engine being slightly "off axis" with each other(it does not take much of an angle to cause an issue like yours). The front surface of the gear box and the mating surface on the engine case must be parallel, and as Timbo commented, putting the gearbox in gear so you can slightly rotate the input shaft by turning the axel can help as well.
  5. I'm not sure what type of "coding" you intend to do, but your options are limited. The Durametric Pro system is capable of low level coding on the Porsche DME, as well as being the most reasonably priced aftermarket Porsche specific diagnostic system. Beyond that, you are going to get into serious money for either a PST II or PIWIS OEM system. The PST II was Porsche's early OEM system, which was replaced by the more sophisticated PIWIS system.
  6. This by far is the most overused comeback on EVERY forum I frequent. Have you ever searched and could not find what you were looking for? The fact that people actually take time out of their day to type this is beyond me. If you don't know then just keep quiet, this is a forum for petes sake. A place where you ask question, answer questions or simple read. Being obnoxious and argumentative can be saved for those lefty political blogs. Just my 2 cents. Gentlemen, gentlemen; let's not get our nickers in twist. While asking if he has searched may seem over stated, many times the question is completely valid, as you often see the same questions over and over. In this case, a quick look at the "DIY Tools" tab at the top of the page would have revealed the archive for Porsche TSB's, which includes the following list of all oil recommendations (as of 5/13) for all Porsche Cayenne models: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/2052-approved-oils-mar-2013-allocationpdf/ So "search" can in fact be your friend................ ;)
  7. I'm not a fan of the spring steel clamps, which is why we always use the ABA clamps. Check with your local parts stores, while them may not carry ABA, them may have a selection of stainless worm drive clamps at reasonable prices.
  8. Good point, we use ABA clamps, stainless steel bands with rounded edges so they never cut into hoses. Amazon and others carry them:
  9. Yeah, but look at all the fun you are having...................... :eek:
  10. You would need access to either a PST II or PIWIS unit to scan the system and re-flash it if necessary. Do you have a list of the codes the vehicle is throwing? If not, I would also get them while the car is connected to the Porsche scan tool
  11. The optimum method to attack those clamps is matter of personal preference; some do it from above, others from underneath. You can always pop out the adjoining bulkhead plug (with the large bundle of wires) to get access as well, or unbolt the tank and pull it into the trunk slightly to get at the clamps:
  12. You do come up with some interesting questions........ Yes, you can cut it down, but I have never encountered having to do this. I just measured the OEM pins for this, and the longer one (which has never caused interference problems on any car I have used it on) is 3 1/4 inches (8.2 cm) long from tip to shoulder. Here is a photo of an LN pin in place on a 986 car: And this is the OEM pin in place:
  13. Carry a couple of large bottle of drinking water in the car.
  14. Unfortunately neither of these are Porsche specific, both are "generic OBD II" items, meaning they cannot access Porsche restricted code areas such as service alert reset, air bags, ABS/PSM, etc. It will read and clear generic codes like O2 sensors, MAF, etc.
  15. Rather expensive, and I can see what you mean about the height limitations. Might be good for some simple DIY projects, but not for a shop or any serious driveway work.
  16. Got a photo of what this looks like for future reference?
  17. The Pentosin product is a fine alternative to the ATE product. A lot of people tend to skip the clutch when flushing the system because the bleeder is in a somewhat tight space.
  18. Headlights with crazing, which is what yours sounds like, probably will not benefit from the over the counter cheap kits which are designed to deal with hazed over units. For major scratches or crazing, you are going to need to go to sanding. Fortunately, 3M makes a pretty good kit for this that contains several abrasive grit levels to sand out the problems, plus a polish to remove any haze, and protectant to apply when the lights are done. You can find these at Wal-Mart, Amazon, and many other outlets:
  19. Sorry for the rag-tag response, it is pick-up time at the shop and everyone seems want to talk to me today for some reason or another.
  20. In 2000, the PDF data was the spec for the car, which is what they are looking at, hence their response. The early five speeds used different lubricants, supposedly because of the alloy used in the syncro rings. The S gearbox would be a six speed, and used a different lubricant (999 917 546 00) at the time. While the five speed "brew" would be better, you can run the 999 917 546 00 if they will no longer repackage the five speed oil.
  21. I have no idea what he is talking about; there is no difference between the S and non S manual gear box lubricants....................... :eek: I just got a confusing email from Sunset. I have a base 986 with 5MT, and requested a quote for qty. 3 of 1-liter bottles of 75W-90 Porsche gear oil, part # 999 917 564 00. Sunset told me that's ONLY for the 6MT. They said I should ONLY use Porsche part # 000 043 304 71 for my 5MT which ONLY comes in 20 liter containers for $$$$XXXX. The five speeds were using a different gear oil produced called Burmah (TAF 21) under the old part number N 052 911 C0, which comes in 20L containers. I would ask if they could fill a few liter containers for you, they have done it before. Porsche Boxster Transmission Oils.pdf
  22. Looks like a dual row to me. LN used to have a photo comparison of the flanges on their website for comparison purposes, you might want to look that up just for your own peace of mind.
  23. No, you ( and Loren ) are correct, I was thinking of the M96/97 layout.
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