JFP in PA

When I downloaded it, it is a locked pdf file and asks for a password. What am I missing? No idea, it opens as a simple PDF file for me.

The hydraulic tensioners get varnished up or clogged with crap, fresh oil and some miles often cleans them out, tightening the deviation values. They also tend to tighten up when the car is fully warmed up.

Yes, that is normal behavior. The current version does a better job of auto recognizing later models, but not 01 and 02's.

It does not require one, it is a PDF file.

We like them and use them extensively. For a street car, you want DOT approved units; our preference is for Goodridge: DOT approved, great warranty if you ever damage one, retails in $120-130 range but do go on sale from time to time.

Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool: This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap. Thanks for this John, I will do. A couple of my hoses are showing signs of wear I think..... There are some pink stains around the edges. They are squeezy and not brittle and seem ok..... As a rule of thumb, are they shot and need replacing if they leak at the edges? Or should they be removed and cleaned etc every so often to stop leaks? There are worm clips on some of these already but they don't look to be the best of quality..... In the meantime before I start and drain the coolant etc / pressure test, should I replace the worm clips to see if it makes a difference first? (just managed to pick up a used blue point pressure testing tool for peanuts on flea bay - was going to vacuum test too with a uview airlift). Also, this may be a stupid question but does the airlift work with a compressor (I.e. Shop air) that blows rather than sucks ..... And the fact that it blows past the t pipe draws the air out of system creating a vacuum? I have a small compressor for car tyres that goes to 250psi and runs off cig lighter socket. If the above is correct, would this do the job do you think? When I changed the oil a few weeks ago, the clips weren't on that tight (and the expansion tank was slowly going down prior to this date but hasn't since) so I tightened them up.... Could it be that they are cheapies and so have worked themselves loose? Cheers New stainless worm clamps are cheap, doing the job a second time because an old clamp failed just doesn't make economic sense. When we take one apart, it always gets all new clamps. Old clamps tend to start to fail slowly, causing slow and hard to find leaks. Around the shop, we have a well worn adage: "Do it right, and you only do it once." The Uview works off of air flow and pressure across a device that uses the airflow to create vacuum. Just about any decent air compressor can pull a healthy vacuum with a Uview unit.

Stainless worm drives are an excellent alternative, and the sizes you mentioned should suit your needs. Your best bet for correct fitment is to take the old ones off and then go to the parts store to match them up with replacements. Clean all the fittings or surfaces with a Scotch Brite pad. No sealant of any kind is needed. You may also want to acquire a hose removal tool: This is a $5 (US) tool you can find anywhere, including Amazon.com, and will make getting the old hoses off a snap.

Correct. I think that no one is saying that all flashes are bad, but unfortunately many seem to have their problems. We have seen more than a few, as have other posters. The warranty issue popped up around the time of the release of the PIWIS II, which is a much more "networked" system than the first version. At that time, Porsche released a memo to dealers specifically addressing the DME software issue, making particular note of the Turbo cars. And with the system now sharing data with Stuttgart, when the new algorithm caught a re-flash, your warranty was now voided world wide, so going to another dealer no longer worked, and future PPI's at resale would catch it as well if a real PIWIS was involved. We had a customer with a leased Turbo that the leasing company refused to take back at the end of the lease because of a voided warranty for a re-flash, which violated the lease agreement. I think the key here is not to scare anyone, but just to make sure they go into entertaining a re-flash with their eyes wide open, as some have been burnt by the experience, in more ways than one.

Silver, No I have NEVER had problem with emissions test. If I did I would just have to connect my flash loader to the OBD port and re-load the stock program. Kevin at UMW did the flash. We went back and forth with data logs to generate my custom programming (as I am at altitude). I also have hybrid turbos along with some other goodies (see my sig link). It is incredibly more linear and the torque curve is fantastic compared to stock. Yes K16s don't lag as much as K24s, but they do have some lag. Not everyone is as lucky on the emissions side. Some, like Silver_TT, bought the car with a re-flash already in it, then moved it to a state with more finicky emissions testing only to run into a brick wall. Car won't pass, new owner does not have the original flash or equipment involved, originator of the re-flash is not exactly helpful, nor is the previous owner. Car is re-re-flashed back to stock at the new owner's expense, and then passes. New owner also notes that they cannot see much if any difference in how the car performs, either on the street or the track. Guys running new cars with an aftermarket flash take their car in for some dealer service item and are promptly told that their warranty in now void due to alterations of the DME software, even though the provider told them the modifications would not be detectable by the PIWIS system. All of which begs a question: exactly what are you gaining for all this folderol and expense? Of course, as their are tuners on top of tuners out there, your mileage may vary..............

You should only be replacing the battery when it is needed, which can be quickly determined by a simple "go/no go" load test that takes less than a min. to run. Most auto parts stores do this for free, and just about any decent shop should be able to do it as well.

The flywheel would be awkwardly heavy during the process of trying to set the seal.

Clean it with lint free wipes and alcohol and you should be fine. During the installation, wear throw away gloves.

Cheap enough, which means quantity sales, this would be a hit for the DIY market. I'd be looking at something in the $25 range. You have to remember that the backyard guys can do this install with a plastic pipe fitting from their local Lowes that sets them back less than $5. Most Porsche specialty shops have already jumped for the factory $500 tool as we can amortize the cost across a large number of jobs already done and yet to come in the door. You could still count on some shop sales for those that do low volume work, or as a back up tool for when multiple cars are apart at the same time. I know I would buy one or two (depending upon the cost) for that reason alone.

Excellent drawing. Delrin or similar nylon would be a good choice as they are tough enough for a tool, but easily machined. The correct installed depth for the PTFE seal is also 13MM from the face of the crankshaft where the flywheel mates to the crank.

Considering what the OEM tool cost, I would say there probably would be interest, depending upon the final cost.

I, for one, am not a big fan of a lot of the aftermarket DME software out there; most of them do not really do much positive on anything short of a ten tenths prepped car, and even then they don't add all that much, particularly in the RPM range you use every day. Some of these systems also cause issues with the cars, including not being able to pass state "enhanced" emissions testing, which is obviously problematic. I think if you spent the $700 to $1,000 on some DE seat time at the track, you would get more out of the car's inherent capabilities.

I install a lot of flywheel and pressure plate bolts which are sourced from Porsche. I have never weighed any of them, lost any sleep about it, or ever had a problem with them, other than their cost. I think you would also find that the pressure plate, disc, and especially the flywheel are well more than a gram out of balance as well.

You are correct, the roll pin on the crank locates the flywheel in the correct orientation for the single gap in the teeth on the back of the flywheel that are read by the crank position sensor to be in the required position so that the DME knows where the crank is in relation to the cams for ignition timing, etc..

A warm leak down is the best test for this.

The regulator is internal to the alternator, you have to open it up to even see it:

I'll repeat what I said above, if you are running a quality full synthetic oil, it needs no additives. Once a year, just before you do an oil change, run a bottle of Techron through the fuel system. Outside of that, no other additives are needed.

Cheetah seems to have fallen off the face of the earth...........

Check the car's electrical system for the correct voltage at idle; voltage fluctuations can lead to ghost MIL's on several systems. I would also play around with the ignition switch, the $15 electrical section of the switch is well known for causing all kinds of weird electrical faults as well.

Porsche adjusted the installed depth when the PTFE seal was released, without a TSB. Any car we take apart to the level the seal is exposed gets a new PTFE seal, regardless of leaks or no leaks; they are substantially less problematic than the earlier designs. At the end of the day, the seal is only a $20 item, and take about 5 min. to install, while the labor to get at it is just a bit more............

They are just trying to keep us on our toes................. :eek: