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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Not really, you have to look at it, often with small mirror stuck down inside the canister.
  2. Thanks JFP, out in the desert rancho mirage 85-112 daily Then definitely go to a 10W-40, like Castrol Edge with Syntec Technology; I'll bet you see a change in your oil pressure right away.
  3. Not the type used by the LN adaptor (Wix/NAPA Gold), they are "full flow", which means no internal bypass valve is in the filter, so you get 100% filtration at all times.
  4. I would keep it off the road until it is fixed. When the AOS fails catastrophically , they can suck in enough oil to hydro lock the engine and destroy it. Not worth the risk.............
  5. Ohhh, I didn't know that...Is this something that happens 'often'? Should this be a maintenance item? My boxster has 30K miles on it... In a word, yes. Worst part about it is that you don't know it is happening until you take the filter off and look at the valve (in is in the bottom of the plastic housing) and see it is stuck open. Most people don't do this, as they don't even know it is there, or for how long it has been allowing unfiltered oil to circulate. The valve itself is a plastic device with a spring to operate it, and it sits in the very bottom of the OEM plastic housing. When the valve sticks, you typically end up buy a new housing, which ain't cheap either, only to have the new one eventually do the same thing. We became aware of the problem because we do a fair number of oil changes and always clean out and check the plastic housing for cracks, etc.
  6. Considering the milage on the car, I would try a higher weight oil. You did not say what climate you are in, but if it is seasonal, I would go with a 5W-40 from Castrol or Joe Gibbs; if you live in an area that is warm, I would consider a similar 10W-40.
  7. Thanks for all the replies. Found a Mahle at a local store so I'll go with that since it is OEM. While I like the spin on conversion, the extra $s of the conversion kit is not really saving me anything, plus having to get a can opener to inspect the filter makes no sense since the oem cartridge arrangement already allows for inspection.....the dreaded IMS bearing fail....(don't think that is applicable to 1997s tho....) The spin on option starts to make a lot more sense when you realize how prone these cars are to having the bypass valve in the bottom of the canister stick open and pass totally unfiltered oil back into the engine. The spin on will not permit that as it is a "full flow" design which filters all the oil all of the time.
  8. The sensor could be going south. What oil are you running in the engine?
  9. Can the system be deactivated? The answer is yes, but no dealer and most independent's will not do it for multiple reasons. First, it is a federally mandated safety system, so if it is deactivated, the car won't pass inspection in most states. Secondly, there is a huge potential liability issue for anyone that does disable it. If the car was subsequently in an accident with serious injuries, or worse, a sharp lawyer would pick up on the fact that it had been disabled and come after whoever did it. So no one wants to touch the hot stove in fear of getting burned. As pointed out, one or more of your wheel sensors has probably had the battery go dead. If you search around, there have been several threads posted about cheap aftermarket sensors that can be substituted for the over priced Porsche units.
  10. From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years The following procedure is from the 2009 Technik Service information book: Oil filling The correct hydraulic oil level is important for operating the transmission without running into problems. The following preconditions must be met in order to check or correct the oil level: • Engine must be idling • Vehicle must be horizontal in both longitudinal and transverse axis • Hydraulic oil temperature between 86° F. and 104° F. (30° C and 40° C) • Selector-lever position “P” • Clutch cooling volume flow must be switched off (using PIWIS Tester in Oil fill mode) • Retain the described states for approx. 1 minute to allow the oil to settle • Open screw plug on oil overflow bore and collect emerging oil until only drops of oil are emerging • Once there is no more oil emerging, top up the clutch fluid until oil emerges at the oil overflow bore • To avoid damaging the clutches, the procedure must be completed within 5 minutes (PIWIS Tester exits Oil fill mode automatically after 5 minutes) The correct oil level is also important to avoid damaging the gear wheels in the transmission. There is also an overflow bore for this, which is located on the opposite side. The oil level can be checked in the usual way here.
  11. Not really, if the oil cap is difficult to get off, the vacuum level is too high because the AOS has failed.
  12. I'll bet you are glad it is all done, now enjoy those summer roads.................. :thumbup:
  13. Check the car's AOS system. Easiest way is to try to remove the oil fill cap in the rear boot while the engine idles; if it comes off reasonably easy, you are fine. But if it is a bear to get off, the AOS needs to be replaced.
  14. I would be concerned about the cat it self considering your comment about the track. At this juncture, I would be looking at the performance of the pre and post cat O2 sensors, looking for how they cycle (or fail to). You could have a cat going out, or a bad O2 sensor, you need to diagnose which one is the correct issue before spending a lot of money. The following charts are for a Boxster, but the operational theory is the same for your Turbo:
  15. I would have; the clutch oil will have the most crud in it, and see the worst degradation from heat exposure. That is why the factory suggests changing it twice in the same time/mileage frame the gear box oil is changed only once in. If you were concerned about break-in debris in the oil, I would have done both, particularly as at this time, only the dealers have the correct system (PIWIS) to do the clutch oil. The gearbox oil can be changed by any competent shop or indie as it does not need the PIWIS.
  16. Well, if you are going to watch them do the clutch oil as well, just don't be surprised at how ugly it looks when the dump it.
  17. Just be aware that the clutch oil is the one that takes most of the abuse in the PDK, and has a shorter maintenance interval (you change the clutch oil twice for every one gearbox oil change). From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
  18. Bolts and tread holes should be clean (spray brake cleaner is fine), a dab of Loctite, torque to specs.
  19. Yes, you can use the Uview on a partially filled system (we do it for cars with DIY coolant refills that went bad) as long as the system is dead cold (zero run time) and the Uview adaptor is above the liquid level in the tank. It has to be cold to prevent the vacuum from causing the coolant already in the system from boiling under vacuum, which it will do if the engine has any heat in it. If you have substantial air already trapped in the coolant on board, the system may "burp" one or two times as the air comes out. Hook up the Uview and let it come up to full vacuum, then shut the valve and let the system sit for at least 5 min. under vacuum without any movement in the Uview gauge (test for possible leaks or remaining air in the system), then pull in the remaining coolant until the system if full (vacuum will drop to zero when that happens). You should then be set to go.
  20. That I do not really know as I have never run an AWD car on a two wheel dyno. I would suspect that the viscous coupling would not take kindly to being run in this configuration; perhaps someone can chime in that has acutally run the car on a two wheel dyno.
  21. First of all, I am not a big fan of "hub" dyno's as they have not shown me a reasonable level of reproducibility. Secondly, I would only dyno a AWD car intact on a four wheel roller set up, rather than trying to compensate for the hub dyno's short comings, otherwise you could end up with misleading data.
  22. It also helps if you have a very light coating of white lithium grease on the input shaft and throw-out bearing collar.
  23. Quite often, I find that wiggling the trans slightly while pushing it towards the engine helps. These things can be a pain in the butt to go back, or they simply just drop into place; like Forest Gump's box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.
  24. Take a break and look at the engine and trans from all sides; quite often, we see problems due to either the trans or engine being slightly "off axis" with each other(it does not take much of an angle to cause an issue like yours). The front surface of the gear box and the mating surface on the engine case must be parallel, and as Timbo commented, putting the gearbox in gear so you can slightly rotate the input shaft by turning the axel can help as well.
  25. I'm not sure what type of "coding" you intend to do, but your options are limited. The Durametric Pro system is capable of low level coding on the Porsche DME, as well as being the most reasonably priced aftermarket Porsche specific diagnostic system. Beyond that, you are going to get into serious money for either a PST II or PIWIS OEM system. The PST II was Porsche's early OEM system, which was replaced by the more sophisticated PIWIS system.
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