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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Well, if you are going to watch them do the clutch oil as well, just don't be surprised at how ugly it looks when the dump it.
  2. JFP in PA
    Just be aware that the clutch oil is the one that takes most of the abuse in the PDK, and has a shorter maintenance interval (you change the clutch oil twice for every one gearbox oil change). From the manual: PDK transmission oil - approx. 3.12 quarts / 2.95 liters ATF transmission oil Mobilube PTX Formula A (SAE 75W-90) GL 4.5 - change at 120K miles or 12 years PDK clutch oil - approx. 5.49 quarts / 5.2 liters Pentosin Gear Oil FFL 3 - change at 60 K miles or 6 years
  3. JFP in PA
    Bolts and tread holes should be clean (spray brake cleaner is fine), a dab of Loctite, torque to specs.
  4. JFP in PA
    Yes, you can use the Uview on a partially filled system (we do it for cars with DIY coolant refills that went bad) as long as the system is dead cold (zero run time) and the Uview adaptor is above the liquid level in the tank. It has to be cold to prevent the vacuum from causing the coolant already in the system from boiling under vacuum, which it will do if the engine has any heat in it. If you have substantial air already trapped in the coolant on board, the system may "burp" one or two times as the air comes out. Hook up the Uview and let it come up to full vacuum, then shut the valve and let the system sit for at least 5 min. under vacuum without any movement in the Uview gauge (test for possible leaks or remaining air in the system), then pull in the remaining coolant until the system if full (vacuum will drop to zero when that happens). You should then be set to go.
  5. JFP in PA
    That I do not really know as I have never run an AWD car on a two wheel dyno. I would suspect that the viscous coupling would not take kindly to being run in this configuration; perhaps someone can chime in that has acutally run the car on a two wheel dyno.
  6. JFP in PA
    First of all, I am not a big fan of "hub" dyno's as they have not shown me a reasonable level of reproducibility. Secondly, I would only dyno a AWD car intact on a four wheel roller set up, rather than trying to compensate for the hub dyno's short comings, otherwise you could end up with misleading data.
  7. JFP in PA
    It also helps if you have a very light coating of white lithium grease on the input shaft and throw-out bearing collar.
  8. JFP in PA
    Quite often, I find that wiggling the trans slightly while pushing it towards the engine helps. These things can be a pain in the butt to go back, or they simply just drop into place; like Forest Gump's box of chocolates, you never know what you are going to get.
  9. JFP in PA
    Take a break and look at the engine and trans from all sides; quite often, we see problems due to either the trans or engine being slightly "off axis" with each other(it does not take much of an angle to cause an issue like yours). The front surface of the gear box and the mating surface on the engine case must be parallel, and as Timbo commented, putting the gearbox in gear so you can slightly rotate the input shaft by turning the axel can help as well.
  10. JFP in PA
    I'm not sure what type of "coding" you intend to do, but your options are limited. The Durametric Pro system is capable of low level coding on the Porsche DME, as well as being the most reasonably priced aftermarket Porsche specific diagnostic system. Beyond that, you are going to get into serious money for either a PST II or PIWIS OEM system. The PST II was Porsche's early OEM system, which was replaced by the more sophisticated PIWIS system.
  11. JFP in PA
    This by far is the most overused comeback on EVERY forum I frequent. Have you ever searched and could not find what you were looking for? The fact that people actually take time out of their day to type this is beyond me. If you don't know then just keep quiet, this is a forum for petes sake. A place where you ask question, answer questions or simple read. Being obnoxious and argumentative can be saved for those lefty political blogs. Just my 2 cents. Gentlemen, gentlemen; let's not get our nickers in twist. While asking if he has searched may seem over stated, many times the question is completely valid, as you often see the same questions over and over. In this case, a quick look at the "DIY Tools" tab at the top of the page would have revealed the archive for Porsche TSB's, which includes the following list of all oil recommendations (as of 5/13) for all Porsche Cayenne models: http://www.renntech.org/forums/files/getdownload/2052-approved-oils-mar-2013-allocationpdf/ So "search" can in fact be your friend................ ;)
  12. JFP in PA
    I'm not a fan of the spring steel clamps, which is why we always use the ABA clamps. Check with your local parts stores, while them may not carry ABA, them may have a selection of stainless worm drive clamps at reasonable prices.
  13. JFP in PA
    Good point, we use ABA clamps, stainless steel bands with rounded edges so they never cut into hoses. Amazon and others carry them:
  14. JFP in PA
    Yeah, but look at all the fun you are having...................... :eek:
  15. JFP in PA
    You would need access to either a PST II or PIWIS unit to scan the system and re-flash it if necessary. Do you have a list of the codes the vehicle is throwing? If not, I would also get them while the car is connected to the Porsche scan tool
  16. JFP in PA
    The optimum method to attack those clamps is matter of personal preference; some do it from above, others from underneath. You can always pop out the adjoining bulkhead plug (with the large bundle of wires) to get access as well, or unbolt the tank and pull it into the trunk slightly to get at the clamps:
  17. JFP in PA
    Glad you are making progress. :thumbup:
  18. JFP in PA
    You do come up with some interesting questions........ Yes, you can cut it down, but I have never encountered having to do this. I just measured the OEM pins for this, and the longer one (which has never caused interference problems on any car I have used it on) is 3 1/4 inches (8.2 cm) long from tip to shoulder. Here is a photo of an LN pin in place on a 986 car: And this is the OEM pin in place:
  19. JFP in PA
    Carry a couple of large bottle of drinking water in the car.
  20. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately neither of these are Porsche specific, both are "generic OBD II" items, meaning they cannot access Porsche restricted code areas such as service alert reset, air bags, ABS/PSM, etc. It will read and clear generic codes like O2 sensors, MAF, etc.
  21. JFP in PA
    Rather expensive, and I can see what you mean about the height limitations. Might be good for some simple DIY projects, but not for a shop or any serious driveway work.
  22. JFP in PA
    Got a photo of what this looks like for future reference?
  23. JFP in PA
    The Pentosin product is a fine alternative to the ATE product. A lot of people tend to skip the clutch when flushing the system because the bleeder is in a somewhat tight space.
  24. JFP in PA
    Headlights with crazing, which is what yours sounds like, probably will not benefit from the over the counter cheap kits which are designed to deal with hazed over units. For major scratches or crazing, you are going to need to go to sanding. Fortunately, 3M makes a pretty good kit for this that contains several abrasive grit levels to sand out the problems, plus a polish to remove any haze, and protectant to apply when the lights are done. You can find these at Wal-Mart, Amazon, and many other outlets:
  25. JFP in PA
    Sorry for the rag-tag response, it is pick-up time at the shop and everyone seems want to talk to me today for some reason or another.
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