JFP in PA

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Are you referring to the spark plug tubes and seals?

Generally, no, more likely they would see a power fall off and increased oil consumption.

Hmmmmmmmmmm.....you could be playing with fire here. Prior to model year 2000, Boxsters did not come with the larger 18" wheels for a reason: The chassis pickup points for the suspension mounts were not strong enough to handle the strain imposed by the larger wheels. After some customers suffered floor pan/bulkhead failures while running larger wheels and tires on the early cars, Porsche released a bulletin advising against their use on pre 2000 cars. On cars built 2000 and later, the weak areas were reinforced with thicker metal and welds, eliminating the problems. As you are not only going to even larger wheels. but pronounced offsets and even spacers, you could be heading for long term problems.

It is more than the number of chains, the methodology of how the various electronic modules and controllers communicate has changed multiple times over the years, moving away from a simple network over twisted pairs, to extensive use of CAN bus technology, and even fiber optics. Each technology update had an associated DME version change, killing off a lot of easy mix and match engine and component swapping. VarioCam became VarioCam Plus and added variable valve lift technology. Putting one of these newer technology engines in an older chassis requires a huge amount of swapping modules and fabricating harness connections to tie it all together. While these swaps can be done, the view typically ain't worth climb as you end up with a car with more money in it that it will ever be worth, and one that scares off potential buyers.

If the metal grit was ferrous, you would most likely have an IMS bearing heading south. The spin on's can easily be cut open using tools as various as an exhaust pipe cutter (about $15 at Harbor Freight) to some sophisticated filter cutters:

Probably not anything to be overly concerned about, but I would suggest using a spin on oil filter if you are not already doing so.

Why support buying an outdated and illegal clone of the system rather than supporting the only firm that continues to support Porsche owners? Get the real thing, it comes with both support and unlimited updates, and can easily be sold on if you move away from Porsche ownership.

And we have seen the C141 when there was a break in the communications loop, so it may not be easy to ignore.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Actually, it seems rather odd that both sensor would go out at the same time, sounds more electrical or electronic in nature. I would start looking at the wiring harness for the sensors to make sure something has not come adrift or shorted out. I would also disconnect the sensors and check them for possible shorts as well.

If it really is a "failed" LN unit, it would be a rarity. LN has only had about a dozen or so of the 12,000 plus installed units since 2009 develop problems, and most of them were traced to installation issues or other non IMS problems that generated metal grit that ultimately took out the bearing, so I would be rather circumspect of their comment without additional information. Removing the rear seal does help both the dual row and the non serviceable OEM bearings, but does not help the single row units much as they seem unable to deal with the mechanical loads. What stumps me is that to remove the seal, the car has to be in a configuration that is literally moments away from replacing the OEM bearing with a much better ceramic hybrid bearing, but just removing the seal is still, it is better than nothing.

Not unusual for a car that has been sitting for prolonged periods. I would say follow your mechanic's lead and then put some miles on the car before retesting it. It just might surprise you.

I understand it wouldn't see most of the systems, I just want to reset the airbag light and if it can't I would buy a cheap OBD2 code reader until I figure out what I need for the long term. Porsche has always been pretty protective of certain systems, including the air bags. Most inexpensive systems cannot even see the 996/997 airbags much less reset them. You are going to need a Porsche specific tool for that.

The dash gauges in these cars are not known for their accuracy, so I would not be overly concerned. Swapping out the cluster requires buying a new one (read $$$$) and having the system programed to the correct mileage using a PST II or PIWIS. Hi JFP, Just so you know we can take used clusters and do mileage correction at a fraction of the cost of a new cluster. Its plug n play no programing needed. We have a lot of other services that you might find useful. PM me if you want to get more info. PS: I also agree with RFM i would start to test the wiring/connectors for excessive resistance first. Thanks, my intention was to inform the OP that if he decided to go with a replacement cluster, the mileage issue is not a backyard DIY for most "shade tree" mechanics as it requires the use of diagnostic tools most do not have access to. I would also have to agree with Loren in that if someone has replaced the gauge faces, that could be the source of the inaccuracy.

The dash gauges in these cars are not known for their accuracy, so I would not be overly concerned. Swapping out the cluster requires buying a new one (read $$$$) and having the system programed to the correct mileage using a PST II or PIWIS.

No, I rather doubt it. The car's use different systems, and the 996 has a lot of new technology and systems the 964/993 simply did not have, so the Hammer would not even see them. The 996 needs a PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric system.

You may or may not get 40-50K out of a steel bearing depending upon a lot of factors beyond those you mentioned, but you will get that and more from a quality ceramic bearing like the LN unit.

OK, here goes: One point you need to recognize is that the single row bearing Pelican is selling is simply a bad idea, as is basing your cost assumptions on mileage. According to Porsche's own data, somewhere around 10% of all single row OEM bearings fail in service, so replacing the much superior dual row with a weaker single row is a big move in the wrong direction from a durability standpoint. At best, the 30-45K mile service life estimate is a WAG type guess. Considering how many single row engines Porsche replaced under warranty (and well short of 30-45K miles), this mileage number could easily be too high and estimate as well. LN's service life estimate for the dual row replacement is a very conservative estimate, as they strongly prefer to under rather than over estimate. We have customers that are well beyond that number with no signs of problems. That said, no ball bearing will last forever in this type of application, it is a "consumable" component, not unlike brake pads, water pumps, or clutch discs. Sooner or later, they will need service, which is why Porsche redesigned their engines to eliminate them. At this time, the only known permanent solution for the IMS bearing is the "Solution" system which has no ball bearings at all; but this is only made for the single row bearing engines. At my shop, we simply will not replace an OEM steel bearing with another steel unit, simply because the economics do not make any sense. Most of the total cost for an IMS replacement is the labor to take the car apart and put it back together again; the parts costs are a very small percentage. With more than 12,000 ceramic bearings installed and on the road, LN has more than proved the case for the slight extra cost of the ceramic hybrid bearings.

Emissions related codes are capable of clearing themselves if the problem goes away for enough miles. Only problem now is if or when it returns.

I'll apologize for asking up front, but why do you want to cut costs on an item that could potentially reduce your engine to paperweight? Even Porsche does not sell this bearing anymore..............

The key here is "balance", namely which oil gives the best balance of cold starting, shear protection under heat, and show the ability to "stay in grade" (read still be the advertised oil grade after four or five thousand hard miles) Both a 0W and 5W oil are low enough in viscosity to handle all but the most brutal sub zero F cold starts; in reality, the two oils are only slightly different in viscosity at low temps. But as noted above, the 0W oil makes more extensive use of VI additives, so it tends to shear down faster (falling out of grade). One area where most 0W and 5W oils differ is in film strength; 5W tends to be much better in that regard. All things considered, I would look for a 5W-40 oil with ACEA A3, B3, B4 rating's with the highest ZDDP level you can find. If you lived in a more moderate climate, I would even consider a 10W-40 that met the other criteria as well, as 10W oils tend to be even better than their 5W counterparts.

Besides the obvious cooling system hot spots, the European weather can be a factor as repeated cold starts and shorter drive cycles lead to fuel intrusion into the oil which both washes lubrication from the critical trust side of the cylinders and reduces the effectiveness of the lubricants, as does the European penchant for putting a lot of miles on oil before changing it. While such action is obviously "green" and environmentally friendly, it can lead to accelerated wear issues in alloy engines. Add in the ever lowering levels of ZDDP in the oil and you probably have another contributing factor.

The oil viscosity difference is marginal at best, but the lower oil temps is important to the oil's longevity and hear resistance. What would also be important is selecting an oil with high ZDDP levels and film strength.

I find it unusual that you have the CEL on and no codes; who's scan tool are you using? As for the tank vent valve, try this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zulI06TPBVc

1997 boxster. It has 2 cats, one on each side. there is one O2 sensor between the maniford down pipe and the cat, on one sensor on the end of the muffler. Each side is symetrical (e.g. 2 O2 sensors/side, 2 sides, total of 2 O2 sensors). So now the question remains: for North American car, What side (driver or passenger) is Bank 2?? and where is Sensor 1 located? (between manifold & cat? or at muffler?) Any help is really appreciated. Thanks J Bank #1 is on the passenger's side of a Boxster, bank #2 is the driver's side. Sensor #1 is the one closest to the engine.