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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. If the plug tubes were leaking, there would be oil on the plugs as well as on the cam covers; if everything is dry, leave it alone.
  2. As Loren noted above, you need to find a correct Bosch PCMCIA card in order to build one, and that will not be easy.
  3. As noted in my post above, there are a lot of quality plugs and coils available; if you are unsure of what to buy, do what many owners do and stay with the factory choices for the components, which are proven to be long term performers. If your plug tubes are not leaking, leave them alone.
  4. Porsche began to "see the light" on water cooled engines with some of their race engines which used air cooled blocks and water cooled heads. This carried over to the legendary 959 street car, which also used water cooled heads. The published rationale had to do with both performance and longevity, but the engineers noticed that emissions and noise levels dropped dramatically as well, which started the move towards all water cooled units.
  5. That's it. Just out of curiosity, have you ever considered going to spin on filter?
  6. There should not be anything between the engine case the bottom of the filter canister, which is where the bypass valve should be. I am not sure if Porsche still sells the bypass assembly separate from the canister housing anymore, but a good parts department should be able to answer that.
  7. Yes, it is called "cam allocation", and covers several pages in service manuals, and requires some special tools as well. As Porsche stopped printing this information several model years before your car was built, you (or your technician) would need to obtain it from Porsche's online subscription service at http://www.renntech.org/forums/links/goto/18-porsche-piwis-tsi/
  8. If you are referring to the fasteners that hold the VarioCam+ drive on the end of the cam, the answer is possibly yes.
  9. If it was a loose gas cap, you would get a specific code of a large EVAP system leak.
  10. I am not a fan of Mobil 1 products. Some of the Motul oils are pretty good, but if I were you I would be looking at Joe Gibbs DT40. I have never heard of internal moisture build up leading to misfires, but even slightly cracked coil packs will, particularly if it is raining or wet out. Moisture inside the engine is not a function of oil brand or type, it ususally stems from the engine not getting hot enough to burn it off from things like short trips.
  11. If the fuel filter clogged, all the cylinders would begin to lean out and you would get an overly lean code from the O2 sensors, so I don't think it is necessarily that. You should also be able to see a clogged filter with a fuel pressure and delivery test. As I do not know what facilities you have at your disposal, I would suggest getting the car scanned on a Porsche specific diagnostic system (Durametric, PIWIS, PST II), looking for anything out of the ordinary (strange responses from the O2 sensors, fuel trims, etc.). As cylinders 1 & 4 look like a starting point, I would also pay close attention to them, pull the plugs and coil packs, closely checking them for any discoloration on the plugs, cracked ceramics, loose coil pack connectors, cracks in the coil packs themselves, etc.). While some parts may need to be replaced, I would not replace them without knowing why.
  12. Most likely not; as you noted, it is a common occurrence on these vehicles. The most common misfire areas are spark (or lack there of) and fuel (overly lean/rich mixtures). Fuel issues tend to throw emissions codes, so I would start by checking the coil packs (common problem area) and plugs.
  13. Motive also makes one for those uninclined to build one themselves:
  14. You are throwing misfire codes for cylinders 1 and 4. Could be a number of things (coil packs, plugs, etc.). Clear the codes and see if they return; it could have just been a momentary thing.
  15. That stupid little bolt has given a lot of people grief and caused more than one to have to pull a lot of other stuff out of the way to replace the tensioner when the bolt gets banged up and can no longer be held while installing the roller, or will not tighten into the arm itself. Not surprised they updated it. Just looked up the assembly in the service manual, it is 44 ft. lb.
  16. I also found another reference for 44 ft. lb.in another source.
  17. OK, checked a Pelican "how to", and found this: You need to get a 15mm wrench on the head of the bolt behind the pulley and then loosen the pulley with a 24mm wrench on the front. Be careful not to drop the spacer located behind the pulley when you pull it off. Reinstall the new pulley in the same manner, using a small bead of blue Loctite 242. Tighten the assembly to 44 ft-lb (60 Nm).
  18. Let me see if I can find it in a different source; back in a bit..............
  19. I'm sorry, you are correct; the pulley at the "L" end of the tensioner arm should be 44ft. lb. I must have been looking at the spec for the #4 bolt into the "L" shaped arm itself and not the pulley spec. :oops: Still needs some Loctite if reusing the bolt however.
  20. Upper idler (M10X145) 34 ft. lb. Lower idler (M8X55) 17 ft. lb. Spring loaded tensioner (M10X30) 7.5 ft. lb. If you are reusing the original bolts, use Loctite 270 on them and the factory bolts were originally microencapsulated with a thread locker.
  21. Just about everyone we see in the shop makes some noise, particularly on a cold start up. You always could have an additional issue, but these things just make some noise. If you are concerned it is something in excess of normal, have your shop look into it, if for no other reason than to put your mind at rest.
  22. The turbo cars all tend to be slightly noisy at cold start up, nothing unusual.
  23. Not really, it is over as far as I am concerned.
  24. It gets its power from the Tiptronic controller (rear boot), which has its own fuse (fuse holder C, circuit C5, 15A) which supplies all power for the Tip:
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