JFP in PA

OK, spent some time staring at wiring diagrams and here's were I think you are: The column stalk appears to have a set of contacts that send an electrical signal to the wiper motor, which then parks the arms. Unfortunately, that is not definitive as either the contacts or the motor could be the issue. I think you are going need to do some testing diagnostics on both to see how to proceed.

Not really sure what the issue is here. The intermittent function is built into the 986 relay (you can actually use a VW relay in its place and set the time length of the cycle), so after trying different relays, that obviously is not the problem. I'll look into the OEM service manuals tonight and see if they contain anything that may shed some light on the problem. It does sound like it could be the stalk assembly however.

There is no easy way to replace the base engine hard lines running through the tunnel and into the wheel wells with the larger diameter "S" versions; there are a lot of things in the way the will have to come out, plus all the coupling hose sections will need to be replaced as well. The front bumper, wheel well liners, and under trays must be removed to gain access, and some find it easier to move the AC condensers out of the way as well. That is why different people developed "adaptor's" either made from copper fittings or by modifying the existing hard lines to the larger hose size (Precision Chassis Works) to compensate for the larger rubber hoses. If you wanted to replace all of the hard lines, they do bolt right in once all the old ones are out, but it is an expensive and time consuming proposition. If you want to see a DIY tutorial done some years back on the subject, try this: http://www.bombaydigital.com/boxster/projects/radiator/

It could also be an electrical fault in the pump itself.

First thing, stop running or using the car. If you have access to a cylinder leak down tester, that would be a good place to start. A compression tester may also give you some data, but a leak down would be preferable. I would also pull the filter and look at the oil in the canister for signs of coolant. If you have coolant in the oil, DO NOT run the engine further. Coolant is Hell on bearings and machined surfaces. While the oil cooler can be the source of intermix issues, by far, most result from cracked cylinder heads.

First of all, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Pretty self explanatory, P1276 is an electrical fault involving the pump and control network for the PSM and ABS systems. Take a good look at the wiring around the PSM hydraulic unit, I think there is a TSB on moisture entering the harness connector at the PSM.

Weird. If you have checked and rechecked everything else, bleeding the system is both cheap and quick. That said, normally any amount of trapped air in the system would manifest itself as a spongy pedal rather than a "shimmy". I would also consider reexamining the front pads to see if one pad is making uneven contact with the rotor when slightly retracted.

I see nothing unusual in that video; the coolant in the tank appears to be expanding as it heats up - completely normal. Water vapor from the exhaust - again normal in cool or cold weather. If you had coolant entering the exhaust system, you would not be able to see the rear of the vehicle for the steam (a couple of drops of water makes gallons of steam). Porsche uses a MLS style head gasket that is actually stronger than the engine castings, which is why they never fail. Normally, when a Porsche starts leaking coolant into the combustion chambers, something has cracked.

I could sit here and guess all day long, but that would be exactly what your would have: guesses; unfortunately, you need to get the car up in the air and start looking. There are many places it could come from.

The sealant comes in a tube -- 000 043 300 39 -- US MSRP $28.96 According to Porsche's "book time" removing and replacing the oil pan (including gasket sealing) is 770 TU. 770 TU = about 7.70 hours. So it is a big job. +1. This is a job best done on a lift and involves removal of the front axle carrier, which is a normally done to get ready for an engine removal. Best left to the pro's.........

First thing to check is the tank cap. These are well known for losing their pressure rating and opening up to dump coolant. While the cap can be tested (has to hold a little over 18PSIG), they are not expensive, so that would be a good place to start and an easy DIY as well.

Loren's observation is correct, the Porsche system shows the updated 997 numbers. Perhaps Sunset is still playing catch up with their online listings.

Do you have the URL for Sunset handy?

You are a little too quick for me on that one................

Your car should be an M480 car (six speed manual), and if it is, the 997 numbers should be correct.

We see the same type of issues with these aftermarket kits, which is why we do not like them, along with the fact replacement parts are often non existent. We are also starting to see LED replacement kits with similar problems. Having multiple vehicles with factory HID/LED lights, it would now be nearly impossible to go back to halogen lights, particularly for rural or bad weather driving. Unfortunately, higher output bulbs are not the answer due to their tendency to discolor or even melt the lenses.

According to LN and Jake Raby, yes. The LN style bearing is partially submerged or splash lubricated without any additional help. We have numerous customers running that way, as do many, many other shops; and without problems. And with some now 20K units in service, they seem to have a point. J'apprecie beaucoup vos commentaires Ce est ce que nous sommes ici.

It could be a fluid issue. but to be safe you should have the car scanned with a Porsche specific tool to see what transmission codes come up.

Softronic at around $900, claim a 20HP increase over factory, or about a 6.3%,which if verifiable comes in at around $45 per claimed HP increase. While Softronic has traditionally claimed more conservative increases, what is not stated in their literature is what, if any, other modifications were done to the car (it is not uncommon for "tuners" to fail to disclose that they stated improvements were on a car that already had significant other modifications such as headers, intake, exhaust, cat modifications or bypass, etc.) . You would need to speak with them to verify that the 996 test vehicle was completely stock before the re-flash, and then determine if it meets your expectations.

Long before you would burn a piston, the car would code, even with the stock DME flash. And to go back to what Loren already stated, "on a normally aspirated 996 you can spend several thousand dollars and maybe get to an additional 30 HP", and that would be on a ten-tenths prepped car. We have had customers literally go the full boat (headers, sport cats, exhaust, intake mods, and even multiple DME re-flashes) and barely get that level of increase on these normally aspirated cars on a good dyno. We have also had owners try multiple brands of component's (headers, exhaust systems, re-flashes, etc.) end up with more spare parts than I have in my shop and a wallet that is easier to sit on, but not much more of an improvement, which was also completely born out in track lap times. It is not easy to get a ton more performance out of these cars, and quite plainly many owner's end up wondering if the view was really worth the climb. For 996 NA cars - as I'm sure you'd know - tuning is more about the driveability, throttle response, air/fuel ratios...about maximizing the gains from the headers and cats you just added to the car. Then again, feel free to nitpick and focus on certain points of my response to benefit the lesser-informed. Or if you simply wish to discredit my suggestion. The mods I suggested can be done for under $1500, if one has decent DIY skills. a custom tune such as this. Relatively affordable for the Porsche-owning high-rollers, right? Again, remember the OP's question. While at no point did I mention anything about "a ton more performance," my response simply offered the biggest bang-for-buck suggestion, addressing the areas where one tends to offer the most noticeable gains (for the least outlay) on NA 996s. No more, no less. Actually, the EVOM table is quite informative. According to the information listed in the table for 3.6L 996, and using the prices listed on the EVOM website as of today, as well as the E-bay headers and cats you mentioned, the following should apply: EVOM tune $1000 V-Flow intake $695 E-bay Headers $250 Cats $200 Total (no labor) $2145 Gain: 320HP to 345HP, or a 25HP increase, or a little less than $86 per HP, assuming a dyno would confirm their increase numbers. If you went with their "Stage 2" tune, intake and exhaust (no headers), again parts only (no labor), your gain would be around 30HP, for $2750, or around $92 per HP, again assuming the gains can be verified on the dyno.

Or as Americans often say, and loosely translated, "La preuve est dans le pudding!"

No such procedure has ever existed. You need to program the car to accept the key using a PST II or PIWIS system.

I think you have the wrong relay, the one you have comes up as being for a 996, and they are different as the 996 had driver adjustable interval wipers, your Boxster does not (adjustable intermittent wipers only appeared with the introduction of the "S" model Boxster in 2000).

Long before you would burn a piston, the car would code, even with the stock DME flash. And to go back to what Loren already stated, "on a normally aspirated 996 you can spend several thousand dollars and maybe get to an additional 30 HP", and that would be on a ten-tenths prepped car. We have had customers literally go the full boat (headers, sport cats, exhaust, intake mods, and even multiple DME re-flashes) and barely get that level of increase on these normally aspirated cars on a good dyno. We have also had owners try multiple brands of component's (headers, exhaust systems, re-flashes, etc.) end up with more spare parts than I have in my shop and a wallet that is easier to sit on, but not much more of an improvement, which was also completely born out in track lap times. It is not easy to get a ton more performance out of these cars, and quite plainly many owner's end up wondering if the view was really worth the climb.

Watch the wattage and use of cooling fans on LED replacement kits, some of them run pretty hot and can discolor or even melt the lens assembly. Also be aware that some kits have no replacement parts availability, so if a component craps out down the road, they cannot be repaired.