JFP in PA

The year and model of the car would be useful.

The plug is a type of insurance policy to alert you that something is wrong during oil changes. If you wanted to trap all ferrous debris, even that small enough to pass through the oil filter, you would need to go to a spin on adaptor and a FilterMag which mounts to the filter and turns the entire metal surface of the filter into a powerful magnet: When you use one of these, every drop of oil passes over a rare earth magnet on its way through the filter and any ferrous debris is trapped.

You will be fine on the ramps, as long as the trans is out of gear and the wheels are chocked so the car cannot move. These are simple safety precautions, not a reason to be afraid.

And a lot more meaningful.................... Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

I've lowered more than a few engines to gain access, but I always did it on a lift with the engine supported by a separate screw jack stand and bolt on bracket for the purpose. Problem you face with trying to do this on ramps is that the trans is going to try and rotate around the center line of the axles while the engine is going down, so the trans has to be in neutral and the rear wheels chocked on the ramps to prevent any chance of the car trying to move as the engine lowers.

The reason LN hardened the magnetic drain plug was to reduce the problems seen with the OEM plugs which round off the Allan key way because they are way too soft. If you do not over torque the LN plug, you will never have any problems.

You may have a bad sensor.

Considering that until recently (when they went to the PDK), the 996 and 997 Turbo cars were available with a Tiptronic, I don't think you have anything to worry about. As for the exhaust system, a lot of people have spent a literal mountain of money of exhaust systems for these cars that make all sorts of improvement claims. In the real world, most made more noise, often with insufferable droning at normal highway speeds, but little if any additional power. Do some searching before spending any cash.

Four functions of the coolant warning light: 1. Engine coolant level too low — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) 2. Engine compartment temperature too high — light flashes slowly (0.5 Hz) (engine compartment blower might be faulty) 3. Engine coolant temperature too high — light is lit; pointer on the right 4. Temperature sensor at water outlet faulty — light flashes rapidly (1 Hz); pointer on the right Note The temperature warning in point three is indicated if the conditions "engine coolant temperature too high" and "engine coolant level too low" are present simultaneously (1Hz = 1 flash per second. 0.5Hz = 2 seconds per flash)

I would take it up to at least 90 PSIG, and then see if you get the same results......................

I just went and checked the minimum air input for our leak down tester: "The minimum acceptable inlet air pressure for accurate results is 80 PSIG."

If the air inlet pressure to the tool is really at 10 psig (or less), I would not trust the results, regardless of how good they are. Higher cylinder pressures will show the real leakage rates, not lower. What is the compressor line air pressure going to the tool.

If I am reading that gauge set correctly, you are seeing very low leak loss, but at about 10 PSIG. You should be reading the leak percentage are much higher pressures (90-100 PSIG air).

Leak down is always preferable. As I have no experience with the unit you posted, I cannot speak to its accuracy. You also need to make sure your air compressor has sufficient output in both PSIG and CFM to correctly operate any leak down unit you might choose.

The stock pads are actually pretty good overall, but if you want to get more bite, there are several aftermarket brands that could help you there, but with increased rotor wear and the potential for noise. If you are going to switch pad compounds, you would be better to do it on all four corners rather than one end only. Flushing the brake system is critical on these vehicles. Over time, all brake fluids absorb moisture which can then corrodes some pretty expensive to replace components in the ABS and stability management systems, resulting in thousands of dollars of repairs. Brake fluid is cheap, components are not. I have to agree with Loren on the price quoted; seems very high. Do you have any recommendations for pads and rotors? A lot of people use the OEM parts, which are quite good, there are a lot of aftermarket options, particularly for the pads (Pagid, Hawk, EBC, etc.), which are also very good depending upon what you are trying to accomplish (less dust, better bite, noise, etc.). I'd suggest doing a search on owner's opinions, as a lot of the perception of which combination is best for a given owner and vehicle tends to be somewhat a personal choice.

The stock pads are actually pretty good overall, but if you want to get more bite, there are several aftermarket brands that could help you there, but with increased rotor wear and the potential for noise. If you are going to switch pad compounds, you would be better to do it on all four corners rather than one end only. Flushing the brake system is critical on these vehicles. Over time, all brake fluids absorb moisture which can then corrodes some pretty expensive to replace components in the ABS and stability management systems, resulting in thousands of dollars of repairs. Brake fluid is cheap, components are not. I have to agree with Loren on the price quoted; seems very high.

We have a lot of customer's running one, they seal just fine at 19 ft. lb.

This is a fairly common mistake. LN used a larger Allan hex and hardened their magnetic plug to make it more durable with frequent oil changes. While they lowered the recommended torque specs, a lot of people either did not read that, or chose to ignore it, which can lead to the plug failing like yours, or even damage to the sump cover. The same type of thing also happens with their spin on oil filter adaptor; people try to torque the spin on like they did with the OEM canister, and then wonder why the filter adaptor unscrews from the car when they go to change the filter. Once installed, the adaptor should not come loose if you lubricate the spin on filter's sealing gasket with a little oil when putting it on, and then only tighten it 1/4 to 1/2 turn past hand tight.

It can be an oil cooler, but often is not. Do not run or drive the vehicle, get it on a flatbed into the shop ASAP. Some diagnostic test (leak down, etc.) are needed that most DIY are not prepared to handle.

Not really, as it only happens intermittently, it just feels a bit goofy. Goofy it is. It seems a bit worse than the older cars. JFP is this not because the front dif in the AWD cars does not allow the front wheels to turn at their own rate in a sharp curve ? That may contribute to it, but I am not convinced it is the entire reason.

I would not hesitate to replace the OEM bearing with a dual row LN bearing; LN has more than 12,000 successful retrofits on the road, so their performance and durability are beyond question. At the same time, I would also update the RMS and AOS assemblies; both are relatively cheap and easily accessible during an engine swap, but much harder to get at later.

Doesn't Brey-Krause produce a set of seat lowering sliders?

First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: I believe you will find that Todd relocated to Canada some time ago. With enough time, money, and welding equipment; you can put just about anything in there. We had a customer doing a 996 Turbo engine transplant into a 986. Long before he was even close to being running, he had spent more than a new Turbo car costs. It all depends upon where your head is at..................

1) Porsche sells a kit to do this, and it requires recoding the car (PIWIS, etc.) to activate it once installed: http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/DEACT.html I am not aware of an aftermarket kit as it would still need to be coded to the car when installed. I'll leave the PCM 3 question to those that have done it.

Thanx Guys. JFP, how is it less capable or what doesn't it do? Jl-c is right the Windows emulator does not work well. It is tolerable with Office but that is about it. It choked on my medical EMR. I am new to this code business. The yellow car croaked about a month ago. I had to have it flat beded to the dealer. The day before it had rained hard. It had codes in it that told the tech that it had misfires on three cylinders. All of my coils were cracked and water got into them. It cost me $1500 for coils and plugs. They sold me NKG plugs for $36 each! They are $4.95 at Pelican. Nobody told me that the original coils in 997s were crap. If I had known I could have watched for it and I could have done it myself for $600 if I could read the codes. Lesson learned. All I really want to do at this point is read the codes and reset the car unless there is something that could be very useful to me with the Durametric. I have not spent much time with the latest version of this scanner, but these things are more code readers than a true diagnostic tool. The one that I looked at could not read cam deviation values, would not reset air bag or service reminders, was incapable of re-coding a car (activating on board computers, cruise controls, steering angle resets, activate the ABS/PSM system to bleed air out of it, etc.), etc. The fact that their advertising says it works on multiple European brand models raises a big flag as Porsche has long been known for have a unique diagnostic system. Even the guys that make excellent diagnostic tools for VW and Audi will tell you that their tools are hamstrung on a Porsche and to go to Durametric. I'm sure it will read global OBD II codes on a Porsche, but remain circumspect that it can function in the traditional "protected codes" areas of the car. The only tools that I know of that can do that are the Durametric, PIWIS, and AutoLogic systems. And before you ask, an AutoLogic tool set up for Porsche is approaching $12K, plus updates. Thanx JFP. It is only a code reader and resetter. This particular version is Porsche specific and I do think it reads all the codes. At least it has one chapter on OBD codes and other chapters on stuff like the seats. I have no way of knowing if it is missing codes. $12,000 is out of the question. If I had that money now it would go into a Fabspeed perfomance system for the Turbo :-) I'll look into a cheap Laptop. The consumer Durametric is limited to three cars. Do you know what happens when you run out of cars? Can you buy an extension or do you just have to buy another one? The only other way out of this one is to spend twice as much on the Indie version. How do you get updates?? I believe that you can either convert the Enthusiast version to the Pro for a fee, or get the unit reset back to three available for a fee. As I have always used the Pro version, I am not sure of the exact proceedures, but if you drop Durametric an email, I'm sure they will fill in any details for you. Periodically, with no definitive time pattern, Durametric releases a new version with patches, bug fixes and new features. When they do, you go to their website and download the new version, following the instructions on the site to replace the older version. Updates are unlimited and completely free. One last question JFP. Does the Durametric now do what ever it takes to change the clutch fluid in PDKs?? As of the latest version (6.5.0.6), it can read and clear codes and see various real time data from the PDK, but as of yet does not have the ability to control the clutch oil cooling circuits, which is required to change the clutch oil. Hopefully, this will change in the future with the quickly growing number of these gearboxes on the street. To save a few bucks, check with Durametric about "refurbished" units, they are completely gone through and carry the same warrantee as brand new units, but at an often substantial discount.