JFP in PA

The use of fuel system cleaners like Techron can remove carbon and other build up off pistons, rings, and valves, improving seal and overall performance. That said, a lot of what the additive removes ends up in the oil, so we normally suggest using Techron in the last tank of fuel before you do an oil change.

Rather than spray it with WD 40, which will attract dirt, spray it with DuPont dry Teflon spray which coats it with a Teflon lubricant that remains dry and won't attract any dirt.

There have also been reports of wiring from something like a radar detector that passes near the sensor throwing it off as well.

While the Durametric is always a good buy, it is entirely possible that the momentary PSM activation is nothing more than the direct result of your "grip check". Sudden yaw motions induced by "dropping the hammer" can activate the sensors in the PSM system, which will turn on the MIL momentarily. While the Durametric system can do a lot of things, I do not believe it can recode your rain sensor system wipe frequency. Coding at that level requires a PIWIS, and even then some things are pre set parameters that cannot be altered.

Sorry, but I can't work with a partial code, I need the full code to help start chasing down what is happening.

It looks like you may have a cam allocation issue. P0011 sets if the cam deviations on bank 1 are more than +/- 10 degrees (all the other codes are cylinder misfires). Before digging deeper, try hand rotating the engine (clockwise only) around to TDC again and see if the cams look the same, if they are, you need to start looking at why the cams are so far off, with an eye towards correcting the problem and reallocating the cams.

If the AOS were going, the vacuum level in the oil sump would be so high that the cap would not easily come off. What code(s) did you have?

If you think your AOS is failing, try removing the oil fill cap with the car idling; if the cap comes off with minor effort the AOS is OK, if it is very hard to get off, the AOS is toast.

Porsche had the same composite impeller issues, and still do. But when they tried metal impellers, the results were worse, so they went back to composites and stayed there. Water pumps are now considered a consumable and should be replaced on mileage or age rather than waiting until they fail. This also applies to their cars as well as the SUV's.

We are not talking about auto-up, but rather how the windows on a cab work in conjunction with the top release micro switch.

Even Porsche tried metal impellers, and then went back to composite. Problem is that all water pump shafts will wear and will start to wobble over time. If the metal impeller is very close to the case (as it should be), it will tear it up pretty badly. And beside the damage to the engine case, there is now a much larger space between the impeller and the case, reducing the efficiency of the pump even if the case is not destroyed. Bad idea all around.

It is always a good idea to start looking at the last thing(s) touched.

On your car, they are accessible from above with the engine still in the car, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, like the power steering reservoir, parts of the intake, and the AC compressor, which have to be removed to get at them. If you have access to the Bentley manual for your car, they show a multipage how-to with color photos to walk you through the process. While time consuming, the job is not overly difficult and only requires basic tools to accomplish. Thanks. Unfortunately, I don't have access to any useful how-to's and searching online isn't yielding much. Any how-to's or photos of what I am looking for?? From what I read, there's one on the left side toward the front and another on the right side toward the rear. If there is nothing useful in the DIY section, I would suggest investing in one of the Bentley manuals. You are going to find that not everything on theses cars can be found online or for free, so the manual could be a real cost saver for you in the long run. If you click on the "Special Offers" tab at the top of the page, you can find more information about the manual.

On your car, they are accessible from above with the engine still in the car, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, like the power steering reservoir, parts of the intake, and the AC compressor, which have to be removed to get at them. If you have access to the Bentley manual for your car, they show a multipage how-to with color photos to walk you through the process. While time consuming, the job is not overly difficult and only requires basic tools to accomplish.

You may come to regret this decision, we have seen more than one severely damaged engine case as the result of the metal blades grinding away when the shaft bearings loosen up and start to wobble, as all water pumps do. The factory pumps use a composite impeller for a reason.

That is one possibility. Bigger ain't always better.

We have pulled the rear seal off of several of the third generation bearings and all of them are still going fine as far as I know. The single row bearings used between 2001 and 2005 were by far the worst based upon Porsche's own numbers from the class action lawsuit, and they tended to be worse amongst the street use only vehicles, while the third generation failures were just the opposite and had more failures amongst cars with lots of track use. I'm not really sure anyone has been able to identify why this dichotomy exists.

That can always be an issue, but from the sounds of your slave cylinder pushing out its innards, I'm wondering it there may be a mechanical issue with the throw out bearing fork that is causing the slave to have to reach too far to depress the throw out bearing and gain clutch release. That could also cause the slave to come apart as it is not designed to push out that far.

Did you do the clutch yourself, or was it done by a shop?

I was referring to the oil filter bypass, not the pump pressure regulation valve, which is a different item entirely. I read in the trade press that some LS engines use a block off plate in place of the block mounted filter circuit bypass unit, but off hand I do not remember which ones. Likewise, there are a couple Toyota and Nissan engines that use full flow oil filters and supposedly do not have any other filter circuit bypass; which may be related to ultra light factory oil spec of 0W-20 full synthetics for these engines. I think this configuration is used in their hybrid models. Porsche uses both a variable oil pump system and a thermal control network on the 9A1 engines which alter both the oil flow and engine coolant temperatures based upon throttle demand. A similar technology has been around for along time in aftermarket dry sump systems which show higher oil pressures at low RPM's, which seems counter intuitive to the way oiling systems normally function.

The whining sound is most likely your secondary air injection system, which only runs briefly on cold starts. This is nothing unusual or to be concerned about. The delay in the oil light going out is more problematic, and probably related to the knocking sound you hear, which is probably not a good thing. You should get the car looked at ASAP. The strange thing about the whining sound is that it has increased in duration over the years. I wouldnt expect the air pump sound to last for more than a couple of minutes...these days it is up to 6-8 minutes. Yes I am very concerned about the knocking for a few seconds on start and the oil pressure delay. Will report back after its diagnosed. appreciate the thoughts in anycase. Depending upon how cold it is, and how well the car is keeping its fuel air ratio under control, the DME may run the SAI for several min. on a cold start.

I suspect you're generally correct, and like everyone else I would prefer 100% filtration, hence the LN adapter and spin on filter. However I don't know for sure when the factory filter bypass valve is in operation. If you have Porsche specs that detail what pressure differential across the filter media (the only pressure this valve references) causes the bypass valve to open I would love to know. I think a typical number in the industry is around 10-12 psi. Then we need to instrument both the high and low pressure side of the oil filter media to find out under what operating conditions this pressure differential really exists to open the bypass valve. Nice one! What filter is that and what total system pressure caused that level of damage to the casing? Does that filter have the bypass valve built into it or is it in the block of the car engine like many cars? Second, the filter casing sees the maximum total pressure in the system whereas if the filter bypass valve is sized adequately it can keep the pressure differential across the element low enough to prevent damage to it (once again that's pretty much its job). This is why you can split a filter canister open or blow out its seals and the element may still look OK. The critical difference between the above and our situation is the Napa Gold 1042 has no internal bypass valve, and our engine block does not have it either (because its built into the bottom of the factory reuasble plastic filter housing) so by using the spin on adapter you have changed the base system. So I believe its possible in this condition to produce enough oil flow (presumably at cold oil temps) to create a pressure differential across the filter to hurt it all while the total system pressure remains low enough that the outer casing does not deform or fail. I don't have the data to prove it explicity, but I believe its easily plausible. True, however I bet all the applications that call for this filter from the book have a filter bypass valve built into the engine block. I can't imagine any filter media designed to withstand a pressure differential across it equal to the total system pressure. I also experienced slightly higher oil pressure at warm idle with the stock oil filter. This of course is not a real surprise if the Napa 1042 is more restrictive...it will be at all conditions to varying degrees. And it was with the exact same oil since I kept the oil and only changed the filter. I also have Durametric so I know the oil temps were also equal when I referenced the pressure, which is critical for an accurate comparison. To be clear I am not advocating running the thinnest oil you can stand and still sleep at night, you can take that too far and do some real damage. From my experience the thicker HOT weight was the wrong direction, ie 0W-40 or 5W-40 was better than 5W-50. Agreed a lower HTHS is not preferable on one hand, but it does support a slightly lower viscosity was still directionally correct to stop the noise, and if you're one of the unfortunate few with this affliction, that aweful noise does not seem so preferable either! :cursing: I am certainly not here to sell Castrol or a particular oil weight, just report what worked for me and what data and experience I have to support it...if one finds something that works better for them, use it! Agreed the lifters are a dead end design, but they still require a non-zero flow rate to operate properly. They all experience some small amount of leak down in operation and when sitting with the engine off. The switchable lifters on the intake side even more so because the lock pin is dependent on oil to actuate. This is not true and a common misconception about multi weight oils. In the case of a 5W-40, the oil behaves like the viscosity a SAE 5 weight oil would at the cold test temperature, but at the hot test temperature it behaves like the viscosity of a SAE 40 weight oil. This does not mean the actual viscosity when cold is thinner than when hot. If this were true you would see your idle oil pressure rise as the engine warms. When the oil is cold you need a lightweight oil so it remains thin enough to flow adequately, but if you were to use that same oil when it gets really hot it would become "thinner than water." But of course if you have a 40 weight oil to solve the hot running condition its so thick when cold it just won't flow adequately. (This was the case way back in the day and you might have had to change your oil on a seasonal basis to compensate.) Multi weight oils transition their behavior from that of a thinner (ie SAE 5) oil to a thicker (ie SAE 40) oil as they warm BUT their actual viscosity trends thinner and thinner with increasing temperature. Let's try and take this in order: The bypass valve is not rated to my knowledge. What I am sure of is that they fail over time, either opening sooner than they should or sticking completely open, either of which results in unfiltered oil getting into all parts of the engine, including the dead end lifters. The ballooned filter is a similar NAPA Gold unit that was on an LS engine in a Corvette. The final pressure was unknown as it destroyed the pressure gauge as well as the filter and several other seals in the engine. But interestingly, the filter's internals were fine, just the shell was ballooned. As to your question about bypass mounted elsewhere, total non bypass engines are fairly common these days in several domestic and most Asian vehicles. With modern synthetics, the severe high cold oil pressures are pretty much a thing of the past, and the OEM's are quick to remove anything the engine does not need in order to save money, even a fifty cent plastic bypass valve. Lighter weight oils: Better cold flowing oils are able to get into the fouled lifters more easily than heavy weigh oils, giving the impression that thin oils are the answer to lifter noise. Problem is that the lighter oils do not pack the HTHS protection of the heavier oils, which puts other component's at risk. There is not such thing as a free lunch when it comes to oils, everything is a compromise. When I refer to cold start viscosity, I am thinking of the Kinematic standard in wide use, which is a measure of the fluids resistance to flow, as opposed to dynamic viscosity which is the fluid's resistance to a torque force exerted upon it. As most motor oils viscosities are measure using the capillary tube viscometer, they are kinematic in nature. This procedure is described in ASTM D445 and ISO 3104. So when I refer to "thin", I am thinking of its kinematic, or flow characteristics.

The whining sound is most likely your secondary air injection system, which only runs briefly on cold starts. This is nothing unusual or to be concerned about. The delay in the oil light going out is more problematic, and probably related to the knocking sound you hear, which is probably not a good thing. You should get the car looked at ASAP.

The CPS may or may not have needed changing, as it is difficult to tell without actually seeing the car. But in any case, the CPS is unrelated to the codes you are seeing. This is a diagram of the entire EVAP system on your car, which shows all of the components and where they are located. The purge line can be cleared with compressed air: As for the current part numbers, I would suggest checking with your local dealer as they may have updated with superseded numbers.

As you have the last design IMS bearing, which cannot be changed without totally disassembling the engine, your options are limited to removing the rear seal on the IMS bearing so that it can get splash lubrication. Typically, IMS bearings fail without any warning, taking the engine with them, As Silver_TT noted, you occasionally find ferrous grit in your oil during the early stages of failure, but even then the engine had to come out and apart to clean all of the debris out of it. The design bearing you have are more prone to track failure than daily driving, but they still occasionally die on street driven only cars as well. Like removing the rear seal, more frequent oil changes help, as does the use of a high quality ZDDP rich oil like the Joe Gibbs Driven product.