JFP in PA

While there are many fine oils on the market, you will be fine with the DT40, it is the only oil on the market that was specifically developed around the M96/97 engine platforms.

Judging by the fact that most inquiries we get about factory TPMS systems centers around how to turn them off, I would say a lot of people wished they didn't have them.

Yes, you want to remove the black seal that surrounds the center bolt on the IMS bearing. In doing so, the oil mist that is circulating in that area will constantly lubricate and cool the bearing. You do not need to apply anything to the bearing.

The only factory IMS bearing that used the 22 MM center bolt was the last design, which unfortunately is the non serviceable unit. While you have the car apart, it would be advisable to remove the IMS bearing rear seal (using something like a dental pick) so that the oil mist in the engine can lubricate it. We have several customers running this way without any issues. A couple of "take a way's" for those reading this thread and thinking about doing an IMS retrofit; first always check the engine number for the presence of either "AT" or "X", which indicates a replacement engine, which could mean a non serviceable IMS bearing. Second, and this is a big one, unless you know for a fact the engine is pre 2000, or 2002 to 2004 (so you have a reasonable chance of which style bearing is in there), do not buy the IMS bearing before you take the car apart. Many vendors of the LN kits will not take them back or even exchange them. While you can always recoup what you spent for the LN tool kit, pre purchasing the IMS bearing can be hazardous to your wallet, as they make very expensive paper weights.

And I'll bet the center bolt nut is 22MM, and you are looking at a non serviceable bearing.

The "AT" is the number means this is a factory reman replacement engine. Sorry.

That is exactly were I was going. I'd also check the engine number for either "AT" or "X" in the sequence.

I have to ask a question: What is the size of the center bolt nut (in MM) that was on the original bearing? Is it 22 MM?

You pictures are not showing, try that again with photos of everything you are referring to.

Glad you got the cam locking tool in place, but does this mean you do not have the TDC pin in place? If so, you need to address that fact before removing the tensioners.

TSB's are available to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab at the top of this page.

Most full synthetics have a published shelf life between 3 and 5 years, which is dictated by the type of additive packages employed. I would suggest you contact Gibbs racing for their storage recommendations and shelf life specs.

Thanks for the fast response JFP - the LN Engineering instructions are the first ones I read but they are too high level and do not say which cams I need to lock and where - see the extract from their instructions below. I also do not understand the part about "Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine". I need a more detailed set of instructions (pref with pics) that show exactly which cams to lock and where, and preferably that also show pics of the IMS to crank tensioner and examples of what a worn one would look like. EPS did a very good set of instructions for the Eternal IMS fix, but it is not for the LN bearing. Extract from LN instructions: "6. Use appropriate long cam lock tool for 3-chain or short cam lock tool for 5-chain engine to lock cams prior to removing chain tensioners. Lock camshaft in head with tensioner accessed from underside of the engine, closest to flywheel. 7. Remove the IMS to crankshaft chain tensioner as well as well the chain tensioner on the cylinder head for which you have locked the cam. If tensioners are worn or were noisy at startup, replace. NOTE: If the flange does not come off easily, the bearing is not centered, or you cannot reinstall the flange, then loosen and/or remove the third chain tensioner and verify or correct camshaft timing." It is sounding like your cam timing is already off if you cannot get the cam locking tool in place. Try rotating the engine 360 degrees (clockwise only) by hand and see if the cams line up better. If they do not, you may be facing a cam allocation procedure.

The first thing you need to do is stop reading anything but the LN IMS retrofit procedure. A lot of other "shortcut" methods have been posted, but most tend only to lead people into dangerous places with expensive results. If you do not have the LN procedure, you can find it here : http://lnengineering.com/files/IMSR-Instruction-Warranty.pdf This is the only procedure I know of that works first time, every time. Do not vary from it, and you will not have any problems.

I'd start by pulling the aftermarket top relay and installing an OEM unit to see if the top opens. You can borrow one from a buddy for the test.

If you are referring to the flexible lines attached to the fuel rail itself, the answer is no. Porsche does not list that line separately.

If none of the specs are ferrous, you should be alright; if the cam deviation values get too far out of line, the car would code before anything happens.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome:

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success. Thanks JFP. Is there any electrical contact lubricant recommended for the spring connectors on the central electrode at the coil pack outlet where it connects to the HT shaft? None is needed in that area.

Does your alternator have a free wheeling pulley or a fixed pulley?

We have always used copper based anti seize on plugs, but I also know that other shops use aluminum based products with equal success.

We always use anti seize on all plugs, regardless of brand. Some manufacturer's do claim to have a coating for this purpose, but I know if we always apply a thin coating, we will not have a problem down the road. We have used NGK plugs as well, and we still put a dab of anti seize on them. Dissimilar metals can lead to difficult to repair thread damage on the alloy component. Always better safe than sorry.

They have a point about sodium not being a normally found additive in Mobil 1, but knowing how many oil blenders are playing with their formulations, that may have changed, which is why it is important to periodically include a virgin sample for a bench mark. Oil formulations are not cast in stone.

Power steering pumps can make a racket when they are coming apart. Take off the serpentine belt and turn it by hand, you should feel it of that is the source of the noise. They also tend to leak when the bearings are going bad. If it is the pump, you will need to replace it as it cannot be rebuilt easily. You will also need to flush the fluid in the system as it could be full of debris, which can kill the rack as well as the new pump.

For the coil packs, use some dielectric grease (any auto parts outlet). As for the plugs, the Beru plus are fine, we have also used Denso Iridium's with good success. Yes, use anti seize, but sparingly, on the treads.