JFP in PA

Sorry, but I can't work with a partial code, I need the full code to help start chasing down what is happening.

It looks like you may have a cam allocation issue. P0011 sets if the cam deviations on bank 1 are more than +/- 10 degrees (all the other codes are cylinder misfires). Before digging deeper, try hand rotating the engine (clockwise only) around to TDC again and see if the cams look the same, if they are, you need to start looking at why the cams are so far off, with an eye towards correcting the problem and reallocating the cams.

If the AOS were going, the vacuum level in the oil sump would be so high that the cap would not easily come off. What code(s) did you have?

If you think your AOS is failing, try removing the oil fill cap with the car idling; if the cap comes off with minor effort the AOS is OK, if it is very hard to get off, the AOS is toast.

Porsche had the same composite impeller issues, and still do. But when they tried metal impellers, the results were worse, so they went back to composites and stayed there. Water pumps are now considered a consumable and should be replaced on mileage or age rather than waiting until they fail. This also applies to their cars as well as the SUV's.

We are not talking about auto-up, but rather how the windows on a cab work in conjunction with the top release micro switch.

Even Porsche tried metal impellers, and then went back to composite. Problem is that all water pump shafts will wear and will start to wobble over time. If the metal impeller is very close to the case (as it should be), it will tear it up pretty badly. And beside the damage to the engine case, there is now a much larger space between the impeller and the case, reducing the efficiency of the pump even if the case is not destroyed. Bad idea all around.

It is always a good idea to start looking at the last thing(s) touched.

On your car, they are accessible from above with the engine still in the car, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, like the power steering reservoir, parts of the intake, and the AC compressor, which have to be removed to get at them. If you have access to the Bentley manual for your car, they show a multipage how-to with color photos to walk you through the process. While time consuming, the job is not overly difficult and only requires basic tools to accomplish. Thanks. Unfortunately, I don't have access to any useful how-to's and searching online isn't yielding much. Any how-to's or photos of what I am looking for?? From what I read, there's one on the left side toward the front and another on the right side toward the rear. If there is nothing useful in the DIY section, I would suggest investing in one of the Bentley manuals. You are going to find that not everything on theses cars can be found online or for free, so the manual could be a real cost saver for you in the long run. If you click on the "Special Offers" tab at the top of the page, you can find more information about the manual.

On your car, they are accessible from above with the engine still in the car, but there is a lot of stuff in the way, like the power steering reservoir, parts of the intake, and the AC compressor, which have to be removed to get at them. If you have access to the Bentley manual for your car, they show a multipage how-to with color photos to walk you through the process. While time consuming, the job is not overly difficult and only requires basic tools to accomplish.

You may come to regret this decision, we have seen more than one severely damaged engine case as the result of the metal blades grinding away when the shaft bearings loosen up and start to wobble, as all water pumps do. The factory pumps use a composite impeller for a reason.

That is one possibility. Bigger ain't always better.

We have pulled the rear seal off of several of the third generation bearings and all of them are still going fine as far as I know. The single row bearings used between 2001 and 2005 were by far the worst based upon Porsche's own numbers from the class action lawsuit, and they tended to be worse amongst the street use only vehicles, while the third generation failures were just the opposite and had more failures amongst cars with lots of track use. I'm not really sure anyone has been able to identify why this dichotomy exists.

That can always be an issue, but from the sounds of your slave cylinder pushing out its innards, I'm wondering it there may be a mechanical issue with the throw out bearing fork that is causing the slave to have to reach too far to depress the throw out bearing and gain clutch release. That could also cause the slave to come apart as it is not designed to push out that far.

Did you do the clutch yourself, or was it done by a shop?

I was referring to the oil filter bypass, not the pump pressure regulation valve, which is a different item entirely. I read in the trade press that some LS engines use a block off plate in place of the block mounted filter circuit bypass unit, but off hand I do not remember which ones. Likewise, there are a couple Toyota and Nissan engines that use full flow oil filters and supposedly do not have any other filter circuit bypass; which may be related to ultra light factory oil spec of 0W-20 full synthetics for these engines. I think this configuration is used in their hybrid models. Porsche uses both a variable oil pump system and a thermal control network on the 9A1 engines which alter both the oil flow and engine coolant temperatures based upon throttle demand. A similar technology has been around for along time in aftermarket dry sump systems which show higher oil pressures at low RPM's, which seems counter intuitive to the way oiling systems normally function.

The whining sound is most likely your secondary air injection system, which only runs briefly on cold starts. This is nothing unusual or to be concerned about. The delay in the oil light going out is more problematic, and probably related to the knocking sound you hear, which is probably not a good thing. You should get the car looked at ASAP. The strange thing about the whining sound is that it has increased in duration over the years. I wouldnt expect the air pump sound to last for more than a couple of minutes...these days it is up to 6-8 minutes. Yes I am very concerned about the knocking for a few seconds on start and the oil pressure delay. Will report back after its diagnosed. appreciate the thoughts in anycase. Depending upon how cold it is, and how well the car is keeping its fuel air ratio under control, the DME may run the SAI for several min. on a cold start.

I suspect you're generally correct, and like everyone else I would prefer 100% filtration, hence the LN adapter and spin on filter. However I don't know for sure when the factory filter bypass valve is in operation. If you have Porsche specs that detail what pressure differential across the filter media (the only pressure this valve references) causes the bypass valve to open I would love to know. I think a typical number in the industry is around 10-12 psi. Then we need to instrument both the high and low pressure side of the oil filter media to find out under what operating conditions this pressure differential really exists to open the bypass valve. Nice one! What filter is that and what total system pressure caused that level of damage to the casing? Does that filter have the bypass valve built into it or is it in the block of the car engine like many cars? Second, the filter casing sees the maximum total pressure in the system whereas if the filter bypass valve is sized adequately it can keep the pressure differential across the element low enough to prevent damage to it (once again that's pretty much its job). This is why you can split a filter canister open or blow out its seals and the element may still look OK. The critical difference between the above and our situation is the Napa Gold 1042 has no internal bypass valve, and our engine block does not have it either (because its built into the bottom of the factory reuasble plastic filter housing) so by using the spin on adapter you have changed the base system. So I believe its possible in this condition to produce enough oil flow (presumably at cold oil temps) to create a pressure differential across the filter to hurt it all while the total system pressure remains low enough that the outer casing does not deform or fail. I don't have the data to prove it explicity, but I believe its easily plausible. True, however I bet all the applications that call for this filter from the book have a filter bypass valve built into the engine block. I can't imagine any filter media designed to withstand a pressure differential across it equal to the total system pressure. I also experienced slightly higher oil pressure at warm idle with the stock oil filter. This of course is not a real surprise if the Napa 1042 is more restrictive...it will be at all conditions to varying degrees. And it was with the exact same oil since I kept the oil and only changed the filter. I also have Durametric so I know the oil temps were also equal when I referenced the pressure, which is critical for an accurate comparison. To be clear I am not advocating running the thinnest oil you can stand and still sleep at night, you can take that too far and do some real damage. From my experience the thicker HOT weight was the wrong direction, ie 0W-40 or 5W-40 was better than 5W-50. Agreed a lower HTHS is not preferable on one hand, but it does support a slightly lower viscosity was still directionally correct to stop the noise, and if you're one of the unfortunate few with this affliction, that aweful noise does not seem so preferable either! :cursing: I am certainly not here to sell Castrol or a particular oil weight, just report what worked for me and what data and experience I have to support it...if one finds something that works better for them, use it! Agreed the lifters are a dead end design, but they still require a non-zero flow rate to operate properly. They all experience some small amount of leak down in operation and when sitting with the engine off. The switchable lifters on the intake side even more so because the lock pin is dependent on oil to actuate. This is not true and a common misconception about multi weight oils. In the case of a 5W-40, the oil behaves like the viscosity a SAE 5 weight oil would at the cold test temperature, but at the hot test temperature it behaves like the viscosity of a SAE 40 weight oil. This does not mean the actual viscosity when cold is thinner than when hot. If this were true you would see your idle oil pressure rise as the engine warms. When the oil is cold you need a lightweight oil so it remains thin enough to flow adequately, but if you were to use that same oil when it gets really hot it would become "thinner than water." But of course if you have a 40 weight oil to solve the hot running condition its so thick when cold it just won't flow adequately. (This was the case way back in the day and you might have had to change your oil on a seasonal basis to compensate.) Multi weight oils transition their behavior from that of a thinner (ie SAE 5) oil to a thicker (ie SAE 40) oil as they warm BUT their actual viscosity trends thinner and thinner with increasing temperature. Let's try and take this in order: The bypass valve is not rated to my knowledge. What I am sure of is that they fail over time, either opening sooner than they should or sticking completely open, either of which results in unfiltered oil getting into all parts of the engine, including the dead end lifters. The ballooned filter is a similar NAPA Gold unit that was on an LS engine in a Corvette. The final pressure was unknown as it destroyed the pressure gauge as well as the filter and several other seals in the engine. But interestingly, the filter's internals were fine, just the shell was ballooned. As to your question about bypass mounted elsewhere, total non bypass engines are fairly common these days in several domestic and most Asian vehicles. With modern synthetics, the severe high cold oil pressures are pretty much a thing of the past, and the OEM's are quick to remove anything the engine does not need in order to save money, even a fifty cent plastic bypass valve. Lighter weight oils: Better cold flowing oils are able to get into the fouled lifters more easily than heavy weigh oils, giving the impression that thin oils are the answer to lifter noise. Problem is that the lighter oils do not pack the HTHS protection of the heavier oils, which puts other component's at risk. There is not such thing as a free lunch when it comes to oils, everything is a compromise. When I refer to cold start viscosity, I am thinking of the Kinematic standard in wide use, which is a measure of the fluids resistance to flow, as opposed to dynamic viscosity which is the fluid's resistance to a torque force exerted upon it. As most motor oils viscosities are measure using the capillary tube viscometer, they are kinematic in nature. This procedure is described in ASTM D445 and ISO 3104. So when I refer to "thin", I am thinking of its kinematic, or flow characteristics.

The whining sound is most likely your secondary air injection system, which only runs briefly on cold starts. This is nothing unusual or to be concerned about. The delay in the oil light going out is more problematic, and probably related to the knocking sound you hear, which is probably not a good thing. You should get the car looked at ASAP.

The CPS may or may not have needed changing, as it is difficult to tell without actually seeing the car. But in any case, the CPS is unrelated to the codes you are seeing. This is a diagram of the entire EVAP system on your car, which shows all of the components and where they are located. The purge line can be cleared with compressed air: As for the current part numbers, I would suggest checking with your local dealer as they may have updated with superseded numbers.

As you have the last design IMS bearing, which cannot be changed without totally disassembling the engine, your options are limited to removing the rear seal on the IMS bearing so that it can get splash lubrication. Typically, IMS bearings fail without any warning, taking the engine with them, As Silver_TT noted, you occasionally find ferrous grit in your oil during the early stages of failure, but even then the engine had to come out and apart to clean all of the debris out of it. The design bearing you have are more prone to track failure than daily driving, but they still occasionally die on street driven only cars as well. Like removing the rear seal, more frequent oil changes help, as does the use of a high quality ZDDP rich oil like the Joe Gibbs Driven product.

I am not at all surprised at your observed difference in cold start oil pressure with the OEM style filter vs. the full flow NAPA unit. That is the bypass valve in operation, allowing unfiltered oil to go around the filter media. Over the years, I have lost count of the number of OEM cartridge units we have observed with the rather flimsy bypass valve in the bottom of the housing permanently jammed open, meaning that most (if not all) of the oil is not being filtered, but generating slightly higher observed oil pressure because it is not being filtered, as there is no pressure loss across the filter media. As for the 1042 filter photo, I would have to agree with RFM, the internal metal support structure on the 1042 is substantially thicker than the outer shell housing; so if enough excessive pressure was present to deform the internals, I would expect the thinner outer housing to also be "ballooned" from it as well: I realize that does not explain how the obvious mechanical distortion occurred, but I do not believe it is from excessive oil pressure, which in any case would be limited by the relief valve on the oil pump. The NAPA 1042 is slightly more restrictive compared to the OEM style filter as the media has about a 30% finer pore diameter and is a "full flow" design (read no bypass) so that 100% of the oil is filtered 100% of the time in order to improve the effectiveness of the unit in cleaning the oil. The difference in oil pressure you observed is not unusual (85 PSIG vs. 90 with throttle application when cold), but at least in my opinion is not enough to explain the difference in the engine sounds, particularly as most engine noise complaints we see are at warm idle, when both filters are similar in oil pressure. As for you lifter observations, yes, we have seen very much the same thing, but with one additional observation: Both the VarioCam and VarioCam + system lifters are an oil passage "dead end" design (read there is no oil flow through the lifter to clean it, it enters the lifter and simply stops, leaving behind very old and dirty oil, varnish and any debris circulating within the oil system). This has always been considered a limitation of this design. It is not unusual to remove the lifters from an otherwise internally clean engine that when placed in a bath of clean thin oil and then pumped by hand immediately puke out some very black and foul smelling ugly crud. This burnt and fouled oil is the reason that these lifters develop problems, including internal wear that allows them to simply fall apart when removed, much like the burnt oil often found trapped in the IMS bearings when the rear seal is removed. Considering the dead end design, it is not at all surprising that some people have found that running thinner oil helps with the noise, but unfortunately does not offer the high temperature/ high shear protection of a higher weight oil. It also explains why some engines that are quiet at cold start, when the oil is thin, become more noisy as the oil thickens with temperature.

Obviously, Jake sees a lot more engines completely disassembled than we do, so I would be the last to refute his observations, plus there are many instances we are aware of that ultimately turned out to be confirmed cylinder issues on the M96/97 engines. He does have a valid point about cold start induced wear, particularly on engines that continue to run lower film strength 0W-40 oils as most engine wear occurs during cold start and warm up when these oils are at their weakest levels of wear protection, and the cars are often just cold started and then immediately driven without any real warm up period. If you are concerned that Jake may be correct, I would pull the plugs and bore scope the cylinders looking for signs of unusual thrust side wear patterns, which are often quite obvious even to the untrained observer.

Setting the exhaust system noise problem aside for a moment, long before I would tell a customer that he (or she) needs a very expensive cat replacement, I would have done a cat efficiency test on the side with the noise. This is a very simple and quick diagnostic that can be run with most (if not all) Porsche specific diagnostic systems that would provide a clear picture of how the unit is working. As for the welding he has observed, I would need to see the cat to be able to say if that is OEM of something done at a later time. But would also note that all of the factory cats have obvious and often crude looking welds on them from the factory: Moving back to the codes themselves, P0446 indicates a problem with the valve that is supposed to seal off the air purge line running from the EVAP canister to the intake system. These valves are known to become problematic, often because of build up in the purge lines that eventually breaks loose and jams the valve itself. While they often can be cleaned out, it is usually best to simply replace them while also blowing out the purge line itself, as they have to be removed to clean them and they are not that expensive. The P1124 and 1126 codes indicate an overly lean condition on both cylinder banks. Overly lean conditions are not a catalytic converter related fault, and as they exist on both banks, it cannot be caused by a bad cat on only one bank. They are typically the result of an air leak in the intake system, which would lead you back to the failed airline purge valve. And as I mentioned previously, many times exhaust rattling complaints on Boxster are the result of the multiple heat shields coming loose, which simply need to be reattached. While it is not my place to question the amount of the repair bill as I have no reference to the shop's hourly rate or replacement parts pricing, my larger concern would be that the correct parts were replaced and that the problems did not return, as I am having difficulty tying what the codes say to your mechanics repair track.

I have to say that I am both amazed, and somewhat concerned by several of your comments for a variety of reasons. We have many, many customers running the LN spin on set up, which I also use on my personal cars. As we always cut open every oil filter on every car we service, I have to say that we have never seen the filter element in the NAPA filters collapsed or otherwise damaged or distorted in any of the literally hundreds of oil filters we regularly see. As several of the cars we service utilize aftermarket oil pressure gauges, we have also not observed any significant differences in oil pressure when switching from one filter system to the other. And as the NAPA filter internal structure is completely supported by metal rather than the entirely treated paper construction of the OEM style filter, I would expect that the OEM filter would suffer significantly more damage if used in the same oiling system. Do you by chance save any photos of the spin on filter which failed? I am also intrigued by you oil comments for similar reasons. We have seen many customer cars with complaints of cold start noise, particularly when running the 0W-40 M1 product, that were either significantly improved or completely eliminated by moving to higher weight oils with superior film strengths compared to the M1 product. On the basis of my shop's observations over many cars, I have obviously having some difficulties understanding what you are seeing.