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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    2005 was the transitional year, some engines carried the smaller diameter single row bearing, others the non serviceable large diameter bearing. Unfortunately, there is no way of knowing which one is in a given engine without taking it apart and looking as all of the so-called methods (build date, engine numbers, VIN's, etc.) have proven to be unreliable by direct experience. All 2006 cars will carry the non serviceable large bearing, as will any factory replacement engines, which will have either "AT" or "X" in their engine numbers.
  2. JFP in PA
    The part numbers I listed are what are in the Porsche system as replacements for the car you described. They also list a new complete transaxle assembly (722-270-060-0), which retails for a tick under $17K.
  3. JFP in PA
    It is sometimes amazing how few "professionals" do not know that these systems can go to sleep on you.
  4. JFP in PA
    Two are listed, 996-300-020-07, and 996-300-020-37.
  5. JFP in PA
    You are going to find some fine ferrous material on the plug with every oil change, that is not at all unusual. It is also not unusual for the first change after installing the magnetic plug to have a bit more than normal as it is trying to clean up what was already built up in the engine. We see similar results when people switch over to the spin on and use a Filter Mag, the first oil change build up is always the worst:
  6. JFP in PA
    That is what we are here for. Glad you got it sorted out, now go enjoy the car.
  7. JFP in PA
    Because the chains are running somewhat slack, the cam timing (read cam deviation values) are probably well off at the moment, which will cause the engine to run poorly.
  8. JFP in PA
    It is the tensioners, it would have been a good idea to pre fill them by pumping them up in a container of oil before reinstalling them, but they will pump up in the engine after it runs for a bit. Just don't drive the car or rev the engine until it settles down.
  9. JFP in PA
    Porsche's comment has to do with the type and amount of anti seize used; some have insulating properties. At the shop, we use anti seize (a small dab) on every plug we install, and have done so for many, many years; and we have never had a plug misfire because of it, or gall the cylinder heads when removed. That said, we have also seen plugs without anti seize that were left in the engine for a lot of miles come out of the cylinder heads with the alloy threads still attached. Your comment about washing the compound off also intrigues me, how did you remove the compound in the cylinder head plug holes? Because if you did not remove it, you still had anti seize on the cylinder head threads, just less of it.......
  10. JFP in PA
    Mike Focke complied a useful list of sources on his website: https://sites.google.com/site/mikefocke2/mikesporscheboxsterwebpages
  11. JFP in PA
    Selling the car as a "roller" is usually a losing proposition and should only be the choice of desperation. You are going to have to spend some money on a replacement from a wreck, but it is usually the lowest cost pathway to getting the car back on the road. Shop around for a good used engine in your area, and figure another 2-3K to get it back in one piece.
  12. JFP in PA
    Not that I'm aware of; we go off UOA's from customer's cars, and they look very good, particularly its ability to stay in grade and retain a high level of ZDDP over miles. We have also had good feed back from customer's concerning quieter starts with the second generation of the DT40 on cars that had been noisy on other oils. I do know from other postings that Jake and his crew put a lot of time and effort into its development and subsequent improvement.
  13. JFP in PA
    So no reason to do preventative maintenance before one of the sensor codes? I've always understood that as the "pre" sensor wears out, the mixture starts richening up and fuel efficiency declines.. Just trying to stay ahead of the curve. We have seen some O2 sensors fail in 25K miles, and others still be running fine at 250K miles, so I have no idea what a "preemptive" sweet spot should be. And long before you would see a measurable mileage change, the car will code; the system is designed to behave that way. Besides which, O2 sensors are anything but cheap.
  14. JFP in PA
    When the vehicle codes, indicating that the sensor is failing,
  15. JFP in PA
    While there are many fine oils on the market, you will be fine with the DT40, it is the only oil on the market that was specifically developed around the M96/97 engine platforms.
  16. JFP in PA
    Judging by the fact that most inquiries we get about factory TPMS systems centers around how to turn them off, I would say a lot of people wished they didn't have them.
  17. JFP in PA
    Yes, you want to remove the black seal that surrounds the center bolt on the IMS bearing. In doing so, the oil mist that is circulating in that area will constantly lubricate and cool the bearing. You do not need to apply anything to the bearing.
  18. JFP in PA
    The only factory IMS bearing that used the 22 MM center bolt was the last design, which unfortunately is the non serviceable unit. While you have the car apart, it would be advisable to remove the IMS bearing rear seal (using something like a dental pick) so that the oil mist in the engine can lubricate it. We have several customers running this way without any issues. A couple of "take a way's" for those reading this thread and thinking about doing an IMS retrofit; first always check the engine number for the presence of either "AT" or "X", which indicates a replacement engine, which could mean a non serviceable IMS bearing. Second, and this is a big one, unless you know for a fact the engine is pre 2000, or 2002 to 2004 (so you have a reasonable chance of which style bearing is in there), do not buy the IMS bearing before you take the car apart. Many vendors of the LN kits will not take them back or even exchange them. While you can always recoup what you spent for the LN tool kit, pre purchasing the IMS bearing can be hazardous to your wallet, as they make very expensive paper weights.
  19. JFP in PA
    And I'll bet the center bolt nut is 22MM, and you are looking at a non serviceable bearing.
  20. JFP in PA
    The "AT" is the number means this is a factory reman replacement engine. Sorry.
  21. JFP in PA
    That is exactly were I was going. I'd also check the engine number for either "AT" or "X" in the sequence.
  22. JFP in PA
    I have to ask a question: What is the size of the center bolt nut (in MM) that was on the original bearing? Is it 22 MM?
  23. JFP in PA
    You pictures are not showing, try that again with photos of everything you are referring to.
  24. JFP in PA
    Glad you got the cam locking tool in place, but does this mean you do not have the TDC pin in place? If so, you need to address that fact before removing the tensioners.
  25. JFP in PA
    TSB's are available to contributing members under the "DIY Tools" tab at the top of this page.
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