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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    If your radiators are clean, and you coolant fresh (if you don't test it, it should be changed about every 5 years), you should not need any of these "magic bullets" advertised. Most are little more than a corrosion inhibitor and a surfactant, both of which are already present in your present coolant. And based upon Porsche coolant propensity to "not play nice" with other coolants, you really don't want to spend money on something you really don't need but that creates problems.
  2. JFP in PA
    P1126 is telling you that one cylinder bank (cylinders 4-6) is running very lean. Most common issue is a vacuum leak on that side.
  3. JFP in PA
    Normally, P0430 is a code that indicates a failing three way cat. That said, diagnostics protocol on a P0430 code is to address and rectify any other active codes first, then reset the system and see if the P0430 returns. This is done because other faults can trigger the cat fault, and because cats are bloody expensive to be replacing without good reason. In your case, I would go back to the cause of the P0455 code first. As they have already replaced the vapor canister and two vales, there are still other connections, hoses, and valves in this system that could still be leaking (the code is for a gross vacuum leak in a complicated system):
  4. JFP in PA
    Excellent news, both for the car owner and independent shops. Some dealers have been scaring the Hell out of car owners about their warranty for years over parts sourcing and who is "authorized" to work on one of their cars.
  5. JFP in PA
    As Porsche's are equipped with performance "summer tires", we normally recommend against driving the cars on dry roads at temps below 40 F, simply because the tires have little to no grip on dry pavement in the cold. If you are going to be using the car in snow and obviously lower temps, you need a second set of wheels and tires.
  6. JFP in PA
    Wear on the pressure plate finger pivots and a decrease in the disc thickness lead to a harder pedal.
  7. JFP in PA
    Not really.
  8. JFP in PA
    Not a difficult job, but it does require removing the axles and re-torqueing them after the boots are done, and not everyone has a torque wrench that goes high enough (if memory serves, the spec is around 360 ft. lb.) You should be able to find both the boots and fresh CV grease as kits online. When the boots are removed, the CV bearings should be cleaned and repacked with the special grease.
  9. JFP in PA
    Also a thought I had, I can check voltage and ground easily at the connector, but going back to the root of the problem... based on the firing order, coil 4 shouldn't cause such a hard start issue since its nearly the end of the firing cycle right? Which leads me to thinking its a fuel issue as well. Fuel pumps can start to go "on the fritz" and still somewhat function even by testing with the fuse method to isolate them right? Truck has been rock solid before this issue, just trying to keep from throwing money/parts at it. I thought you had already checked out the fuel system pressures and said they were OK?
  10. JFP in PA
    The code you are seeing indicates that either the trans is slipping, which you should be able to detect while driving, or the trans control unit cannot figure out what gear the transmission is in. This code is often caused by the communications cable between the controller and the gear box often referred to as the ribbon cable) which often leak at the connectors. Cleaning the connectors may help, but if it is too far gone, it is a $350 or so part. It can also be the internal electronics plate on the valve body itself.
  11. JFP in PA
    As you are not getting a plug misfire code (P0304) for the number 4 plug, I think you have an electrical issue either with the connector or wiring on that cylinder as the code is saying it is getting an implausible signal from that location.
  12. JFP in PA
    OK, I have got to ask where you keep reading these things. The older 911's had an oil level recalibration procedure (964 and 993), but yours should not.
  13. JFP in PA
    You could be at the edge of it going off. Clutch wear is always hard to estimate as it is related to driving style. Keep an eye on it, if the pedal starts feeling heavy, or you start seeing slippage, get it looked at. Big issue here is you do not want to kill the dual mass flywheel.
  14. JFP in PA
    How many miles? Track time?
  15. JFP in PA
    First of all, yes, ZDDP will shorten the life of the cats, but the larger argument is by how much. Because the EPA has the OEM's on the hook to replace the converters under warranty for up to 8 years or 80K miles, they lobbied the EPA to force lowering the ZDDP levels in an attempt to help them get off that hook. Unfortunately, ZDDP is the best anti wear additive available for engine oils, which means that low ZDDP oils allow engine wear that ZDDP would have prevented. Best part of this argument is that without very sophisticated laboratory analysis, it is not possible to tell if ZDDP or crap gas additives were the cause of cat failure. While nearly no one reveals that actual ZDDP levels in oils these days, UOA's have shown that DT40 after more than 7K miles still has more ZDDP remaining than M1 has fresh out of the bottle. Perhaps a better way to look at the argument is that you as the car's owner need to make a choice between replacing the cats, which only requires some hand tools, or potentially having to rebuild or replace your engine, which is both more expensive than the cats and requires a lot more tooling. I know where I and my customer's fall on that call. You also need to note that if your cats do actually go bad, the car will code and tell you long before you go anywhere near CA Smog.
  16. JFP in PA
    Probably a leak somewhere in the EVAP system. Do you think its a leak or is it the fuel line vent valve?? Also, i understand why the sound goes away when I step on the gas, but, why on earth would it stop when I turn the AC off? That makes no sense to me. JFP, can you shed any light on that for me?? Thanks Buddy! Because of the location you indicated, it can only be one of two things: The EVAP system, which is just below the fuel filler door area, under the wheel well liner; or possibly the AC coil in the heater box, which is adjacent to the EVAP system behind the firewall. You need to get a stethoscope and try an isolate which one it is, By far, most of the noises we see in this area are from the EVAP system (stuck valves - there are multiple, leaking hoses, canister itself, etc..). As this would be a vacuum leak, it will change volume or vanish with RPM movement.
  17. JFP in PA
    Our customers have not had any problems with the combination.
  18. JFP in PA
    If you have both the adaptor and filter to look at, you will find that the adaptor fits nearly flush into the current canister's opening (just a thin lip protruding), and when you add the spin on filter, the combination is actually very slightly shorter than the OEM unit. You will be fine.
  19. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome:
  20. JFP in PA
    Probably a leak somewhere in the EVAP system.
  21. JFP in PA
    We have changed the filters without any problems.
  22. JFP in PA
    Sure, why not? When you change the filter, you only lose the oil in the canister, which is less than a liter, so be prepared to top it up.
  23. JFP in PA
    As Silver_TT pointed out, you have a now rare and very precision built, low production numbers engine, so some of the parts are not going to be cheap; but even so, I would not hesitate to replace that tensioner and everything else on that chain side. We regularly see a number of these cars, many of which get the daylights beat out of them on a regular basis; and I have never seen this type of issue with the Mezger engines.
  24. JFP in PA
    You will only be changing out the electrical section of the ignition, so no reprograming is required, just a very small screw driver.
  25. JFP in PA
    Yes, but it gets worse. If you look at the picture of the bearing on the site, in the upper right corner of the photo is a metal punch and a replacement oil pump drive shaft with a slot ground into it. While they don't mention it in the linked instructions, they want you to take a punch and hit it with a hammer to put a very tightly controlled size hole in the plug that keeps oil out of the IMS shaft on the oil pump end, then replace the OEM pump drive shaft with the one that has a slot ground in it to allow oil into the IMS shaft to "pressure" lubricate the IMS bearing. Problems here are that there is no way you are going to use a hammer and punch to put a very specific tolerance hole in anything, and then you are left with a partially flooded IMS shaft, which is going to side load the bearings. Add to that you are replacing the already failure prone investment cast oil pump drive with one that has been weakened further by grinding a slot in it. When the oil pump drive snaps in one of these engines, it is all over as you instantly lose all oil delivery, there is no coming back from that failure. The entire concept leaves me weak.
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