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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. That look like what you need. You might want to also try board sponsor Sunset Porsche (http://www.porschepartshub.com/) for pricing.
  2. I cannot see the images you posted. We normally pull vacuum for 30 min., then test hold it for another 15. As for oil, the entire system should hold 195-/+ 15 ml of the ND 8 fluid. I'm not at the shop at the moment, but if memory serves, the OEM service manual set has a list of the amounts of oil contained in each component for make up purposes.
  3. Do not let the gas simply escape to the environment, that is both environmentally unfriendly, and in many states outright illegal. Take it to shop that can properly recover the gas for recycling, You should not have to replace the dryer as long as you keep the system closed as much as possible while replacing the damaged lines.
  4. As long as your AC system is shut off, nothing will happen, but your AC system will probably not function properly when it gets hot outside, and you could also be placing the compressor at risk running it this way. The system needs to have the 134A removed and captured, the damaged line(s) replaced, and the system recharged and tested.
  5. Glad the outcome was a good one, nothing like some diagnostic testing to confirm or deny a problem.
  6. Guys, it does not matter one iota when the car was built. We have seen very early 2000 cars with single row bearings, and others with dual row bearings. For that matter, I personally own two 2001 cars since they were new, one is a single row, the other a dual row. 2000-2001 is a total crap shoot as to what bearing you will find, build dates for either the car or the engine have never proven useful for this purpose, which is why you need to take them apart before you really know what you are dealing with.
  7. That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems. Surely no different to putting a load resister across the LED though? Effectively fooling the canbus into thinking there is a filament bulb in place. Do you know if the left/right brake lights are monitored separately or is the message I am getting because either/both are 'out'? You are correct concerning adding a resistor to the light circuits, but it needs to match the LED to the factory light's resistance. I do not believe they are monitored separately, as you get the same indication if one or both are out.
  8. That would probably require some elaborate reprogramming, which would not be easy, and becomes questionable from a liability standpoint as you are involving mandated safety systems.
  9. LED's have very little internal resistance, which is why they are so bright on the same voltage; some manufacturer's of aftermarket kits offer add on resistor kits specifically to address this problem. The reason you get the error on the brake lights is they are a mandated safety system, so they are monitored. I'd suggest contacting the manufacturer and see if they offer a kit for this issue.
  10. Quite often, putting LED lights on a vehicle that was not so equipped from the factory results in error codes because the LED's do no exhibit the same circuit resistance as the OEM lights, making the system think a bulb is burned out. this can usually be overcome by adding the correct type of resistor to the electrical circuit.
  11. Please do not double post, it is against the forum rules you agreed to when you joined.
  12. The DME should be in your rear boot, behind a trim panel.
  13. When working on or around air bags, caution needs to be your main concern, at close range these things can really hurt you. Power down the system by disconnecting the battery, then waiting several min. before starting. Never work with the air bag facing directly towards you, stay off to one side, make sure you are grounded before touching any air bag connectors so that you don't static discharge into the system accidently (we like to use grounding wrist straps to prevent this).
  14. If you have never done it before, it never hurts to ask. ;)
  15. You will know it instantly if the dye is in the oil. Take some of the dye itself and hit it with the UV light, it should light up a brilliant, nearly glowing color, this is what you are looking for.
  16. One of the things a good PPI does is to record the VIN and the engine numbers, and check the latter to see if it makes sense to the car (year, displacement, etc.), as well as checking to see if it is a replacement. Not that long ago, we had an immaculate 996 in the shop for a PPI, which turned out to be carrying a 2.7L Boxster engine. Needless to say, the sale did not go through.
  17. Pull a sample of your oil and check it with a UV light in a darkened room. If there is no sign of the dye in the oil, drive it like you stole it.
  18. Try this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/64-manual-transmission-oil-change-instructions/
  19. I'll do my research to make sure i have the right tools and know the location of the fill and drain plugs. I want to get lots of miles of this vehicle, definilty going to be on top of the maintenance. Do you know which fuild is the correct one, I found two at suncoast. 1. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/00004320420L.html?Category_Code=997_Carrera_S_G2_Enginetran 2. http://www.suncoastparts.com/product/99991754600.html?Category_Code=997_Carrera_S_G2_Enginetran thank you! Suggestion, try Sunset Porsche in Beaverton, OR; board sponsor and one of the lowest OEM parts prices you will find.
  20. According the Porsche, "approx.. 3.1 quarts / 2.9 liters transmission oil". That said, we use only Porsche supplied fluids in these gearboxes. People have tried a lot of different brands, and many have encountered noise and poor shifting as the result, eventually going back to the Porsche supplied lube
  21. The codes you are throwing P0130 and P0150 are both short circuit codes, indicating a problem in the wiring for the sensors. Nearly every time we get a car in with universal sensors throwing these codes, it has to do with the way the wiring was connected to make the aftermarket sensors fit and work. At this juncture, you need to start tracing the sensor harnesses and checking each of the individual sensor leads for a short or break using a multimeter. I would also can the harness looking for any damage (burnt by heat, abraded, insulation cut, etc.)
  22. Year and model would always be helpful.
  23. I'm away from the shop at the moment, but 20PSIG seem a tad high for the cap to "pop"; if memory serves, it should release at just over 18PSIG. While this small difference could just be differences in test equipment calibration, the larger question is why does the car hit the venting pressure, which is not a normal occurrence. If you are absolutely sure that the car is holding 20 PSIG, I would start looking at two things: Leak down values, and the evidence of combustion gas in the cooling system (requires a specialized test kit):
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