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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: This product has never made any sense to me. In order to use it, you have to drain the existing coolant, then run multiple flushes with a special liquid designed to remove all traces of remaining water based coolant, followed by blowing air through the system to fully dry it. Then you charge the system with some very expensive (~$45/gallon) waterless coolant. By the time you are done with all this, between shop labor and parts you have spent nearly as much as several normal coolant drains, flushes and refills; which probably more than the car would normally see in its lifetime. Add to that, on fully aftermarket instrumented cars, we have seen very little, if any, cooling improvements. This product continues to look more like a solution in search of a problem. In the shop, the most common coolant related question we get is "What can I top my system up with?". This is because of the Porsche's propensity to leak coolant due to failing water pumps, surge tank. issues, bad caps, etc. These problems do not go away with waterless coolant, so every time you need to open up the system to fix it, you have to drain and catch the magic coolant, and then filter it before refilling the system, or you spend even more money on additional waterless coolant. Seems like a lot of excessive effort and costs with no discernible benefit.
  2. Electrical contact cleaner seems to work the best, and some have had good luck with MAF cleaner as well.
  3. Here is the flywheel side view of the oversized IMS, waiting to have its rear seal removed, there is plenty of room to get at it: All OEM IMS bearings have inner and outer seals to retain the grease they were packed with. As most have already had the grease washed away, you simply pop the rear seal off to allow access for engine oil. All cars built after 2006 (until 2009) carry this style bearing, as do many of the 2005 cars. There is no way of telling in the 2005 cars which bearing is in the engine, you have to take it apart and look.
  4. The green has not been made for several years. The pink version is fully compatible however. I would also recommend that because your coolant is now pretty old, it is a good time for a complete flush and replacement.
  5. As parts vary in different locations around the globe, I would suggest having a dealer run your VIN to make sure which parts actually belong in the vehicle.
  6. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: When you had the vehicle connected to the Porsche diagnostic tool, did you try recoding the module to the car just to make sure it just didn't "get lost" in the communications system? That module is about 450 Euros or so, so I would really want to make sure it is defective before replacing it.
  7. The value is simple: I am unaware of anyone running without the seal having an IMS failure. How many IMS bearings, with the seal in-place, failures are you aware of (997's with large bearing)? Only a couple, but both were definitely an IMS failure.
  8. First, welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do not be so sure the relay is failing, recheck the fuses first. If your car is killing relays, it most likely has a dead short in the horn system which you will need to trace.
  9. Clutch wear comes from a variety of factors; driving style, driving environment, abuse level, and the components themselves (which are not all the same). We have customers with matching cars, one of which goes through a clutch in about 40K miles, the other just had his IMS done at 90K and his clutch looked like it had miles to go. Couple of months back, we had an early Boxster in with an RMS oil leak at 237K, except for the oil all over everything, the clutch looked pretty good. We replaced it anyway due to the oil, but some of them just seem to hang on forever.
  10. You are correct; you cannot see the IMS from the sump. The trans, clutch and flywheel have to be removed.
  11. That entire idea is more than a little scary............particularly when the bearing you would be replacing is one of the least troublesome, and its replacement is a complete unknown.
  12. If your radiators are clean, and you coolant fresh (if you don't test it, it should be changed about every 5 years), you should not need any of these "magic bullets" advertised. Most are little more than a corrosion inhibitor and a surfactant, both of which are already present in your present coolant. And based upon Porsche coolant propensity to "not play nice" with other coolants, you really don't want to spend money on something you really don't need but that creates problems.
  13. P1126 is telling you that one cylinder bank (cylinders 4-6) is running very lean. Most common issue is a vacuum leak on that side.
  14. Normally, P0430 is a code that indicates a failing three way cat. That said, diagnostics protocol on a P0430 code is to address and rectify any other active codes first, then reset the system and see if the P0430 returns. This is done because other faults can trigger the cat fault, and because cats are bloody expensive to be replacing without good reason. In your case, I would go back to the cause of the P0455 code first. As they have already replaced the vapor canister and two vales, there are still other connections, hoses, and valves in this system that could still be leaking (the code is for a gross vacuum leak in a complicated system):
  15. Excellent news, both for the car owner and independent shops. Some dealers have been scaring the Hell out of car owners about their warranty for years over parts sourcing and who is "authorized" to work on one of their cars.
  16. As Porsche's are equipped with performance "summer tires", we normally recommend against driving the cars on dry roads at temps below 40 F, simply because the tires have little to no grip on dry pavement in the cold. If you are going to be using the car in snow and obviously lower temps, you need a second set of wheels and tires.
  17. Wear on the pressure plate finger pivots and a decrease in the disc thickness lead to a harder pedal.
  18. Not a difficult job, but it does require removing the axles and re-torqueing them after the boots are done, and not everyone has a torque wrench that goes high enough (if memory serves, the spec is around 360 ft. lb.) You should be able to find both the boots and fresh CV grease as kits online. When the boots are removed, the CV bearings should be cleaned and repacked with the special grease.
  19. Also a thought I had, I can check voltage and ground easily at the connector, but going back to the root of the problem... based on the firing order, coil 4 shouldn't cause such a hard start issue since its nearly the end of the firing cycle right? Which leads me to thinking its a fuel issue as well. Fuel pumps can start to go "on the fritz" and still somewhat function even by testing with the fuse method to isolate them right? Truck has been rock solid before this issue, just trying to keep from throwing money/parts at it. I thought you had already checked out the fuel system pressures and said they were OK?
  20. The code you are seeing indicates that either the trans is slipping, which you should be able to detect while driving, or the trans control unit cannot figure out what gear the transmission is in. This code is often caused by the communications cable between the controller and the gear box often referred to as the ribbon cable) which often leak at the connectors. Cleaning the connectors may help, but if it is too far gone, it is a $350 or so part. It can also be the internal electronics plate on the valve body itself.
  21. As you are not getting a plug misfire code (P0304) for the number 4 plug, I think you have an electrical issue either with the connector or wiring on that cylinder as the code is saying it is getting an implausible signal from that location.
  22. OK, I have got to ask where you keep reading these things. The older 911's had an oil level recalibration procedure (964 and 993), but yours should not.
  23. You could be at the edge of it going off. Clutch wear is always hard to estimate as it is related to driving style. Keep an eye on it, if the pedal starts feeling heavy, or you start seeing slippage, get it looked at. Big issue here is you do not want to kill the dual mass flywheel.
  24. How many miles? Track time?
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