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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. We have seen more than one M96 literally "shaken to death" by these flywheels. And that particular broken crank came out of an X51 equipped car, whose owner has publicly also stated online was the result of harmonics, and not caused by a rod or other failure. While some have had reasonable luck with these flywheels, others have not been so fortunate. Right out of the box, this particular brand has sometimes been found to be 10-15 grams out of balance just in the flywheel itself, which is considerable. As the result of these issues, we continue to recommend against their use unless the entire rotating assembly, including the flywheel, had been dynamically balanced to reduce the harmonics. Porsche even released a bulletin to their dealers warning against their use. And just as a reference point, changing flywheel weights does not free up much in the way of power, it changes the dynamics of how the engine accelerates. Before and after dyno pulls have shown 1.5-2 HP, which is considered within the realm of experimental error. We have seen similar "improvements" from things like changing the thermostat temperature.
  2. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I've not seen what you are describing, but to my understanding the mileage reminder interval is coded into the DME and not controlled by the Durametric software. I am also intrigued by the two options to reset the oil reminder. Which version of the Durametric are you using, and where did you get it from? Which tablet do you have it installed on?
  3. It is possible that the switch picked this moment to fail, but that would seem unlikely. I would pull the switch out and unplug it to see if the flashers stop.
  4. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Biggest issues I see is the "M150" and "C32" codes, which means the car is designed for use with leaded fuels in the Gulf states (which had no emissions requirements). This option meant that the cat canister's under the cars were empty (no catalytic cores), the cars had no 02 sensor system, and use a unique OBD system to control fuel trims due the lack of O2 sensors. The UK has been mandatory lead free gas since 2000, and I understand uses the same OBD II "I/M Readiness" test that North America uses, which requires both cats and o2 sensors (although the RoW cars with cats of that vintage only had two O2 sensors rather than the more common four in NA). I would think it is going to take quite a bit of work to get the car accepted by the UK MOT system. The DME will need to be reflashed to use O2 sensors (which would need to be installed) as well as unleaded fuel, and the car will need real cats, all of which is going to be expensive.
  5. Not necessarily, IWIS is one of a couple companies that supply Porsche, and I do not know which engines use what brand chains, but as with most OEM's, Porsche probably has at least two suppliers for every part. There is also always a premium for any part that comes in a Porsche logoed box. The same Bosch electronic part may cost $40 at a VW dealer, $35 online from a parts house, and $200 at a Porsche dealership. That is just the way it is.
  6. IWIS are suppliers to Porsche and many other OEM's: http://www.iwis.de/en/engine-systems/company/reference-customers/
  7. First of all, there are a large number of people that dislike LAD, but most do so because of their pricing, not their parts. They do tend to be on the high side of pricing, but sometimes they are the only ones with a needed part. That said, the used parts market is always a bit of a crap shoot on used transmissions. When a breaker buys a wreck from an insurance company, there is literally no way for them to know the condition of the unit. And, while the trans may have been working perfectly before the crash, the accident could have changed that. So they offer "warranties" on the units (if it don't work, we will give you another to try) in an attempt to make the purchaser more comfortable with buying a used one. The dismantler knows that a small percentage of them are going to be bad for one reason or another, so the installation is their "quality control" mechanism to sort out the good from the bad. While that may sound ridiculous to the buyer, it really is the dismantler's only option as they have no other realistic method to test the units before selling them. That said, what I would suggest is to install the replacement and test it; if it works well, I would go back to LAD and politely ask for some relief on the extra costs you incurred because the first one was a dud. As we live in the world of the internet, they may just surprise you and concede. They really don't need an unhappy parts buyer ripping them a new one online over the issue.
  8. No or low coolant would not stop the fuel pump.
  9. The thorax airbags are in the seat side bolsters, so I would Imagine that you need to get under the leather upholstery to get at the harness.
  10. Not very good. Many of them are actually old and out of date Durametric systems that are no longer supported, the rest are a total unknown, and there have been reports of some of them actually causing problems.
  11. You need a Porsche specific scan tool, such as the PST II, PIWIS, or Durametric software; nothing else will work.
  12. MM could have switched the DME or immobilizers between cars, which would leave the car unable to start. The crank position sensor would shut down the fuel pump if it were bad or disconnected. PST II was Porsche's diagnostic system when the car was built, it was replaced by the PIWIS and then the PIWIS II, the most current version. I do not believe the tool you have would be of help in this, and I know the Durametric (which cannot do the type of coding required to match the immobilizer and DME) won't be of much help either. You need the Porsche tool, of which the current version is lease only at around $20K for the first year.
  13. I think you have kind of gone over center trying to fix this. If the immobilizer was cooked, that was all that needed to be replaced, but to do that the car needs to be coded to match by either a PST II or PIWIS system. Trying to replace everything, and particularly not knowing if they are even a matched set, is only compounding the potential issues.
  14. There should only be voltage at the pump is the car's DME and immobilizer have "shaken hands", which it sounds like is not happening. As Motor Meister where well known butchers, they could have done just about anything to the car. As a first step, I would get the car towed to a shop with either a PST II or PIWIS system and have the electronics checked to make sure they are communicating, without which you are going no where.
  15. Only the crank position sensor will prevent the engine from running.
  16. Some times the O-ring gets caught when screwing in the canister, and that puts a cut in it, which is all it takes for a leak.
  17. As you will most likely end up buying another filter to get the o-ring, just put the new filter in.....................
  18. Flooding the clutch area with gear oil. If you have over filled it, just remove the correct lower fill plug and let the excess drain out to the correct level, then reinstall the fill plug.
  19. What I hadn't realised until reading your post and the Pelican Forum thread linked above (cross section through sump) is that the bottom part of the IMS bearing sits within the engine oil. Therefore, oil washing and pickup will always occur with a full sump. This will be even more the case if the car is often parked front down or under braking. When the engine is running, there is an oil "mist" everywhere inside the sump and cam chains areas, which is more than enough lubrication for the IMS.
  20. P0336 indicates an open circuit for the crank position sensor, so yes, you need a new one.
  21. That is the one I would have expected as well, but the trans should only hold a tad over 3L, so something has to be different.
  22. The car should only take around 3 liters. Does your gearbox look like this (two fill plugs marked in green)? If it does, you are supposed to be filling through the one to the right (the lower one) in this picture:
  23. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing. It's for a wifi transmitter for a back-up camera. Currently it's attached the reverse bulb, which works fine but the wifi takes too long to be useful. I need to wire it up to switched power for a more instant on effect. Thanks for your help. Year and model of the car? 2003 Porsche 996 Cabriolet Underneath the rear package shelf, there are multiple electronic modules that switch on with the key, you can probably tap into one of them, just make sure the new unit you are adding does not overload the fuse on that circuit, and also has an inline fuse of its own.
  24. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Where you can tap in would depend upon how much current you plan on drawing. It's for a wifi transmitter for a back-up camera. Currently it's attached the reverse bulb, which works fine but the wifi takes too long to be useful. I need to wire it up to switched power for a more instant on effect. Thanks for your help. Year and model of the car?
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