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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. We have a lot of customers running the magnetic plug, which is a good idea. I also like the spin on filter (100% filtration) and a FilterMag as well.
  2. I wouldn't use that oil. Look instead at Joe Gibbs DT 40, a very high ZDDP 5W-40 oil and plan on 3-4K between changes..
  3. Yes, it can be done, but it is a bit of work. You will need to locate the later parts and then make up a wiring harness to connect into the car and run it to both ends of the car to connect to the latch mechanisms. Because of the effort involved, the view may not be worth the climb.
  4. If the car has been sitting, it might be a temporary thing. Problem is that you need to get the car into running and driving condition to find out. Also, please do not duplicate post, it is against forum rules. I have removed you second posting of this.
  5. There are a lot of iron and steel components in these engines; valve springs, cams, crank, etc. It could be from any of them. I would plan on shortening your oil change cycles to monitor this, and running oil with as high ZDDP level as you can find.
  6. Do a search, this is a common failure that occurred on early 986's. You have probably snapped the plastic ball bits on the top mechanism and need to replace them. Been written up multiple times.
  7. It always helps to have the year and model of the car. If the clutch slips at all, it is not normal behavior. Does your clutch pedal seem high and unusually stiff? 2004 911 C4S No, clutch seems normal to me. Well, it you are seeing slippage, there is something seriously wrong that is probably not going to heal itself. If the clutch is not something you can deal with yourself, take the car to someone that can.
  8. Hey JFP,, The failure lights show up at highway speeds and not during braking, which led me to believe the problem is probably not inside the braking system. That's why I was thinking MAF or speed sensors. Does that make sense? Perhaps, but even voltage spikes can trigger these MIL's, which is why you need a Porsche specific scan tool like the Durametric system to read the codes to see what is going on.
  9. The brake hydraulic system may just need a complete flush, which if you are getting ABS/PSM faults, the Durametric system can help correctly activate during bleed process.
  10. Sorry, but I would never do this in that manner, bouncing an engine off the rev limiter while standing still is a recipe for disaster. You need a system that logs (read records) the data over time, and then drive the car and collect the data in a "real world" (read engine under load, not free wheeling) manner; then you take the car out for a brief run, let it record the data, and review it afterwards. With a decent system, like the Durametric, you can collect data from multiple system simultaneously so you see the systems interacting.
  11. Yes, at WOT the engine is inhaling all the air it can get, and the fuel system has to deliver enough fuel to keep it happy, if it does not, the engine leans out and starts to miss. I would also look at the MAF values both at idle, part throttle and WOT.
  12. If the system can record fuel trim data, try making a pass in the car with it recording and then look to see if the fuel trims drop off lean when the misfire occurs. if it does, the car is basically running out of gas at high revs, which would probably be a fuel delivery issue (pump, pressure regulator).
  13. While the crank position sensor might not code, the car would not even start if it was bad. The cam sensors would throw codes. I would still suggest checking fuel pressure and delivery just to be on the safe side. If you could get access to the Durametric software on a laptop, you could record real time data while actually driving the car, which could throw some more light on what exactly is happening when the car starts to miss, including the fuel trims.
  14. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: OK, let's start with a couple of "obvious" places to start: How old are the coil packs and have you checked them all to make sure the connectors are properly seated? If the shop that worked on the car was dense enough to not torque the plugs, you can pretty much bet they did not properly check the coil connections. Look at the coil packs and check them for signs of cracking, while completely normal, it a sign they are getting old and need to be replaced. If the car was in my shop, I would be bore scoping the cylinder where the plug electrodes were missing as they had to go somewhere. Same thing applies to the current cylinders that are misfiring. I would also be running a compression test at a minimum, preferably a leak down on the same cylinders, just to make sure these is nothing physically wrong with them. I would also be checking the fuel pressure and delivery rate, just to be sure that the system is not leaning out at higher revs. When was the last time the fuel filter was changed?
  15. It always helps to have the year and model of the car. If the clutch slips at all, it is not normal behavior. Does your clutch pedal seem high and unusually stiff?
  16. I'm not a big fan of swapping parts out without knowing why; I prefer to do one at a time, particularly when parts like that bleeder valve retail for nearly $100. But I have the benefit of a shop with spare parts about for most things. That said, it would depend upon how much the extra parts cost, and how much you value your time (not having to address the same problem twice).
  17. Correct, but most DIY'ers really cannot justify the nearly $1K price for a smoke generator, which leaves them the "hands on" approach.
  18. Depends on which side of the valve vacuum is being applied. Normally, when these fail, they are either stuck open, stuck closed, or won't hold vacuum.
  19. This is one for the Boxster, but the basic components are pretty much the same:
  20. That would be a good starting point, but I would also look at all the flex lines as we often find small cracks in them as well.
  21. You are not going to be able address this issue with the Durametric system, you are going to need to be looking at the EVAP system flex lines for cracks or breaks, and removing and testing the components for their integrity under vacuum. Good old fashion hands on diagnostics for this one.
  22. Gas cap issues rarely throw this code, it is more often a small leak somewhere is the fuel tank ventilation system (EVAP system, EVAP purge system, shut off valve, EVAP system lines, etc.).
  23. It is a valve that allows air to flow depending upon the vacuum conditions in the system.
  24. +1 on checking the grounds. Weak grounds are a source of unending headaches.
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