Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,732

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    199

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    That has always been one of the $64 questions. Jake has been working on his own book on the subject, but I do not know where that stands. Besides torque specs, you will also need clearance ranges for the bearings, ring end gaps, end play for the crank, side clearance for the rods, and on and on. Most people that assemble their own end up winging it based upon torque spec ranges for similar sized bolts, and/or other general "rules of thumb". Shops that work on the engines find what works, and keep it to themselves.
  2. JFP in PA
    Contrary to popular opinion, the factory 996 service manuals do not have a section on complete disassembly / reassembly of the engine. Porsche has never intended for dealer techs to get that far into these engines, so they never published anything on the subject, including the correct torque specs. In fact, Porsche has not published anything on the subject since the 993 air cooled cars.
  3. JFP in PA
    OK, it's haunted. :huh:
  4. JFP in PA
    Without the code(s), anything would be a guess.
  5. JFP in PA
    I do have a P1126 error. I understand that the most likely reason for the error is intake air system leaking, but before I get into a smoke test (that I can't do by myself), I would replace the MAF, if it has reached the mile replacement interval. That was the reason for my question. I have Durametric, if this can be used for checking the MAF and/or troubleshooting the P1126 error. Thanks There really is no prescribed mileage service interval for the MAF; they are a lot like light bulbs and either work or do not. As Ahsai noted, if there is no MAF specific codes, just keep it clean and don't worry about it; it will let you know when it is time.
  6. JFP in PA
    Not a problem, with a five hour lead, you are up before I am!
  7. JFP in PA
    I'd suggest doing a search both here and elsewhere on the internet for the sensors, a quick Google search turned them up for as little as $50 each, but you need to be able to ship them into Canada. And I would not worry about them being Porsche brand either, Porsche does not make them, they buy them and mark them up like everything else they sell.
  8. JFP in PA
    The airbag codes can only be cleared by Porsche specific diagnostic tools such as the Durametric system after the problem is fixed. Yes, you will lose some things like clock settings, radio presets, window drop on cabriolets, etc. which will need to be relearned.
  9. JFP in PA
    Unfortunately, Porsche stopped publishing these manuals around 2004. When there were published, they were also pricey, around $2K. This information is now only available via Porsche's electronic technical subscription service, TSI. On your car, the controller should be underneath the forward section of your center console, ahead of the shifter and under the dash, if memory serves.
  10. JFP in PA
    Code 80BA indicates a software error in the air bag control unit. Often, this ends up with the unit being replaced. OBD II codes and their meanings were traditionally covered in a separate publication (OBD II Manual) with Porsches.
  11. JFP in PA
    Battery life for the sensors is environment related, so I would normally expect around 4-6 years on your car. While driving the car with dead sensors will not really harm anything, in many US states they are required to function at inspection time as they are a federally mandated safety item. 433 MHz is correct, but I would do some online shopping as several posters have done much better on pricing from other sources.
  12. JFP in PA
    Somehow, I rather doubt it as race cars tend to leave out a lot of the niceties required for the street to save weight, like the passenger's seat and emissions gear:
  13. JFP in PA
    Being a shop, we obviously see both a lot of different cars as well as makes. Finding a car (or truck) with a correct reading speedometer is the exception rather than the rule. Most are off 3-5 MPH high.
  14. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The crank position sensors in these cars are famous for causing warm or hot start issues without throwing any codes. I'd would definitely take a look at yours.
  15. JFP in PA
    I think the problem is not with Durametric, but with the Porsche software not allowing an early reset, which I am sure is by design. We usually only see cars with the service reminders already on and reset them after service, so I can honestly say that I have not tried to reset a reminder that was not yet triggered. I also completely forgot about the diesel, which is different.
  16. JFP in PA
    To get at the stops and bellow, you are going to need to remove and disassemble the strut, and with those miles, it would be a good time for new ones. The M030 units will lower the car slightly, and give it a firmer ride as well as improve the handling somewhat. Just adding new struts in place of your worn units will also firm up and improve the handling as well, but not to the level of the M030. So it would come down to a question of do you really need the extra firmness and handling at as somewhat higher price for the parts. By far, most of my customers tend to stay with the non M030 struts, but it is a matter of personal choice.
  17. JFP in PA
    Two methods, a 55 gallon drum of Bondo; or you cut off the quarter panel, straighten any frame and or suspension damage, and weld on a new quarter.
  18. JFP in PA
    Interesting. As most people would not think of that approach, can you post more information on how you extracted the information, or did you swap chips?
  19. JFP in PA
    That is going possible only if the old module can be "read" by a PIWIS system, or you have all of the correct key codes for programing. Quite often, the old module is stone dead and won't read, and the key codes a long gone.
  20. JFP in PA
    For future reference, the DuPont spray will penetrate (the Teflon is suspended in a thin solvent), and gets you away from future dirt pickup problems. Thanks for the info. I'll get some and keep it on hand. Probably smells better than the WD-40 as well. Cheers, You can usually find it at Lowes or online. Has a lot of uses.
  21. JFP in PA
    For future reference, the DuPont spray will penetrate (the Teflon is suspended in a thin solvent), and gets you away from future dirt pickup problems.
  22. JFP in PA
    You are heading the correct direction, but as I mentioned earlier, I like to add the extra cam bearing caps to make up for the ones cast into the cover before starting rotation to help distribute the load on the cams. You may also find that some of the retaining tools with the flat tabs may not fit into the cam ends with them being off TDC. That is why a tool with a round Allan head bolt (like the fabricated tools above) works better at holding the cams in those situations.
  23. JFP in PA
    Believe it or not, the most common cause for P0455 is bad gas cap seals. By far, in the shop, most of these codes are leaking or even missing gas caps.
  24. JFP in PA
    And who is? Just remember, youth and skill are no match for old age and treachery................. ^_^
  25. JFP in PA
    With the retainer in place, I would rotate the cams to their TDC position before releasing the caps. I would also either buy caps (aftermarket tooling) or make them as seen above and install them to help holding the cams in proper alignment before rotating them. The cams are cast iron, hollow, and there is a lot of spring pressure involved; it is very easy to snap them. And they ain't cheap.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.