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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. At a minimum, you should be testing the alternators' output voltage at idle; it should be between 13.5 and 14.5 volts. A more ideal test would be to load test the unit to see how it responds to the electrical system demands, but that requires a special tool to accomplish. You could also have primary cable problems, which can easily cause this type of issue, and also requires testing to evaluate.
  2. What tests have you done to isolate the problem to the alternator? It is a pretty pricey item to replace if it is not the source of your issues.
  3. What code(s) is the car throwing?
  4. If the car is an actual 2010 GT3 or GT3 RS, it should carry the 7.8.2 DME; a non turbo 2010+ DFI car would carry the SD13 DME. Have you tried manually selecting the 7.8.2 DME and see what happens? I find it rather odd that the Durametric system would select the SD13 unless that is what it actually found.
  5. There are some cooler lines and what not in the way, but it is not that bad a job.
  6. If you want to shift one of these engines at 8K RPM's, you had better plan on spending a lot of money. I don't think even Jake takes one of his "all in" big dollar engines that high.
  7. By "not a good thing" I mean that you need to find and fix the problem before driving the car. These engines do not like being overheated, often the first event of this type is the last for that particular engine. Find out what is wrong and fix it, even if that means having the car flat bedded to a shop..
  8. Either a bad water pump, leaking coolant fill cap, or a leaking surge tank; in any case, not a good thing.
  9. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Fault code P1400: Control position not adjustable Possible cause of fault - Control position not adjustable, vehicle too low or too high (no display) 1. Check mechanical and pneumatic components - replace damaged parts. 2. Check to see if other faults are recorded (e.g. 0774, 0775, 0776, 1780). Clear as needed. 3. Re-calibrate level control module.
  10. Where is this spring located exactly? Do I need whole clutch kit to get it fixed? It is part of the pressure plate assembly, and yes, you will need to replace the clutch to fix it.
  11. We have used them several times, they do nice work and it makes the install straight forward and trouble free.
  12. It sounds like your clutch is toast.
  13. Yes, any reman engine installed after 2006 should be carrying the oversized last design IMS bearing, which cannot be changed without totally disassembling the engine. Fortunately, this IMS has a very low failure rate.
  14. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The limit is +/- 6 degrees. P1341 indicates that the cam angle on bank 1 is either out of range or that it cannot read it (plausibility). As for the comment that "they all do it", that is nonsense. You either have a cam sensor on the way out, the actuator solenoid is problematic, or the VarioCam unit itself is bad. I would test the sensor and consider replacing the solenoid if the sensor is good. In any case, beating the crap out of the car is not going to fix it.
  15. Possibly, or a sticking valve. The DME does not always immediately respond to a fault instance, they can also set a pending code and wait for a bit to see if the fault clears, and if it doesn't, then it throws a code.
  16. The biggest problem people run into with doing DIY service is not knowing what they are getting into before they start, and then trying to figure out how to get out of the predicament that they now find themselves in. Like all vehicles, these have their idiocracies, and there are a lot of tools that can make the project a simple afternoon of saving money and personal satisfaction. Vacuum filling systems, like the Uview system Porsche uses to refill these cars can be used on anything that is liquid cooled:
  17. Both codes are related to the secondary air injections system (P0491 is bank 1 flow check, p0492 is the same for bank 2). Because the SAI uses a series of valves and lines, one or more could have become blocked or inoperative.
  18. You say mixing Porsche's stuff with others can be a problem. What problems does this cause? Further on the coolant issue, how often would you say coolant should be replaced in a 996tt? Finally, is it really necessary to replace steering fluid, - annually? thanks for your help Gelation is the big issue, the formation of globs of sticky goo inside the cooling system that are a major pain to get out. Normally, we would use a schedule of every 5-6 years for the coolant, or sooner if it fails testing. No, but if you are doing it by only replacing what is held in the system reservoir by siphoning it out (rather than pulling the lower body panels and disconnecting the steering rack lines for a complete system flush), because that is only a partial replacement, doing it annually makes better sense.
  19. ATE type 200 is fine for the brakes. While the Durametric system can activate the ABS/PSM control system during a flush, doing so is only necessary if air has gotten into the control network. As for coolant, we only use Porsche's stuff, which is very good, but has been known to "not play well with others", so be careful about using other products unless the system has been fully drained and flushed with water first. Only mix the Porsche antifreeze with distilled water, never tap water. The optimal way to refill the cooling system is using a vacuum tool, which makes the process a 5 min. project instead of an all day affair. The second Pentosin tank (in the luggage compartment, under a cover) is for the clutch system. Flushing the power steering system is a pretty elaborate affair, requiring disconnecting the hydraulic system from the rack and running fresh fluid through the entire system until it is clear. Most owner's prefer to DIY this by siphoning out as much of the old fluid from the tanks and replenishing it at least once every year rather than disconnecting the lines from the rack and pumping fluid through the system. Porsche has typically listed their "approved" lubricants in Technical Service Bulletins, which are periodically updated, but you can usually find a wealth of information is the DIY sections under maintenance: http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/342-996tt-manual-transmission-and-front-wheel-drive-oil-replacement/.
  20. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: It is under the dash near the fuse panel in a separate panel that is all relays.
  21. A lot of people have purchased used cats from breaker's yards with excellent results. Do a search........
  22. Very easy: Fill it up and do not run through the gears and up to the correct fluid temperature with the over flow plug out of the pan to drain off excees fluid. I have also seen cars that were filled while not level end up the same way. You would be surprised at how many cars we see that are over filled by shops that don't really know how to serivce these units.
  23. Evaporator assembly, 997-573-901-04, retail price $1175.30. I do not know what a "blendo-servo" is referring to, but you can refer to this diagram for part numbers and prices: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/auto-parts/2011/porsche/cayman/base-trim/2-9l-h6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/evaporator-and-heater-components-scat
  24. It should be in the electrical section. We cannot reproduce it here for copyright reasons. Open your drivers door wide, then look at the side of the dash where it contacts the door panel, you should see the outline of a door/hatch which is held closed by plastic spring clips. Pop it open, the fuse panel is inside.
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