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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. I'd be circumspect about leaving the car with the suspension hanging for long periods. Porsche actually had a TSB recommending against doing this. It is one thing to leave the car in the air while working on it, another to store it in that position.
  2. I would suggest contacting the company that produced the tune for their toughts. Most aftermarket tunes, and particularly on turbo models, need both a slightly colder plug and a tighter gap to elevate misfires and even burning the plug electrodes.
  3. As I mentioned earlier, we often use a heat gun to loosen up these connections. If you cannot get yours off, remove it with the switch still connected.
  4. Unfortunately, defective new parts are a fact of life; fecal matter occurs. Glad you got it sorted. :thumbup:
  5. If just the solenoid had been bad, the parts would have cost you around $200 and the cams would not have had to come out (solenoid is held in by two bolts and removable by itself once the cam cover is off), saving you a lot of money:
  6. The connectors take a heat soak seat at the fittings and sometimes require a little heat to loosen them up.
  7. There are different configurations of the solenoids on these cars, depending upon how it was equipped (VarioCam vs. VarioCam+). Yours sounds like the actuator unit between the cams failed, which is pretty rare: Replacing the solenoid would require pulling the cover, but should not include removing the cams. The cams only have to come out if the actuator itself failed, which is rare (I think we have only seen a couple actuators fail over the years). On the VarioCam + engines, the more common solenoid failures involve the units that are in the cam covers between the plugs: On a VarioCam engine, there is one protruding through the cam cover, and on a VarioCam+ there are two: Quite often, they act up because the hold downs fail: In the OP's case, he has the early single solenoid. But at this time, we do not know if the position sensor (which is buried on top of the engine) is out or reading erroneously, or the solenoid has failed without seeing what happens to the cam angles when the solenoid is triggered by the diagnostics tool. More information is needed to make an informed decision.
  8. You should be able to disconnect it from the electrical unit without a problem.
  9. Besides the AOS, there are a couple possibles, but non are good. If you have oil residue in the intake system, I would still get the AOS checked out (you need a digital manometer that reads in inches of water and hooked up to an old oil cap), at idle you should be seeing less than 5 inches of water vacuum. If there is more, the AOS is on its way. It could also be coolant from a cracked head. For this you need to pressure test the cooling system and leak down test the engine, looking for unexplained pressure losses.
  10. Yes to both questions. The Durametric system is the best you can find outside the factory PST II or PIWIS systems.
  11. Not really, you can try a locate a local independent with a Porsche scan tool. or even obtain one yourself (they cost less than $300 and quickly pay for themselves). The problem everyone encounters with Porsche is that they use a unique diagnostics system that is unlike anything else. But with a Porsche specific tool you can capture data as well as activating systems in real time to get to the heart of a problem quickly. The Ethos system is nice but pricey, and also requires an expensive software package for Porsches, and even then is very lacking compared to a Porsche specific tool like the Durametric system or a PST II.
  12. As the problem started with the replacement of the ignition switch, I'd start there.
  13. For that side sensor, I would allow 2-2.5 hours for someone with direct experience in these cars. Question I still have is did you activate the VarioCam on that bank, hear the engine change, but did not see the cam angle changing? Reason I ask this is sometimes this code is not the sensor, but the cam actuator solenoid on that side not fucntioning, which is a different kettle of fish (it can easily be accessed from underneath,). I have not seen a "global" OBD II type scanner other than the Porsche specific tools I mentioned above that can individually activate the cam systems one at a time while watching to see the actual cam angle movement in real time. What type of scanner was used? You really do not want to be changing the sensor if it really is the solenoid, as that would be a waste of both time and money.
  14. The easiest way to test and confirm the function or lack thereof on the cam position sensors is with a Porsche specific scan tool, which can activate the VarioCam on each bank separately with the engine running so you can see the changes in cam angles in real time. To remove/replace the right side sensor, it can be done from above, but you need to remove the intake housing, drain and remove the power steering reservoir, disconnect the primary cables from the junction block, remove the AC compressor, and then you should be looking at the sensor which has a harness plug and held in by one bolt.
  15. That would be complicated as it would require getting a signal from the DME when the limits have been exceeded, or the use of an external monitor system coded to do the same. I also think that if you were using this as a "shift light", you would want it to be more prominent so you could see it.
  16. High side pressures are very ambient temperature dependent; Porsche actually publishes a graph that relates the high side pressures to ambient temperatures, and there is quite a swing in pressure with only a slight increase in ambient temps. That said, the system should hold 900 grams (31.75 oz.) of R134a when full, so you are probably already there.
  17. For which vehicle (always helps to include this)?
  18. You might also want to post on the website for your local PCA chapter (which is probably The Palmetto region) as well. I am not familiar with this. I will look it up and check it out. PCA is the Porsche Club of America, and the Palmetto region is your local chapter. Several member's probably have a Porsche specific scan tool, and would be willing to help out a fellow owner with a problem.
  19. I think you will find that Mr. Cheetah dropped off the planet some time ago. We have had several posters try to contact him without success.
  20. He had them custom made by a machine shop. I bought one to test against the factory tool (works fine), if your interested in it, let me know.
  21. Check with you local boat yards; a lot of sea craft use these types of windows.
  22. Have your mechanic check the function of your Turbo's waste gate control system. It make be a sticking gate itself, or the controller.
  23. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Do you realize you are responding to a nearly eight year old posting?
  24. I come up with at 996-606-124-00 as the correct part for your car. Should retail somewhere between $250-275, or list for about $600 at a Porsche dealer.
  25. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: First thing you need to look at is the charging system (voltage excursions cause no end to ghost MIL lighting up). Load test the battery and check the alternator for correct voltage (around 14V). I would also scan the car for any other information.
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