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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. How difficult was it to remove the oil fill cap? If it required some effort, you have a bad AOS (a good AOS would show a vacuum signal of 5 inches of water, which is relatively weak).
  2. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Other than by long term corrosion, I have never seen anyone shear those bolts off. Something must be misaligned or otherwise incorrect.
  3. Your "PIWIS" sounds like one of the many Durametric system clones sold on the internet. A real Durametric system would give you the option to activate the ABS system for bleeding/flushing purposes. You can always get one of the real Durametric systems and do it yourself sooner.
  4. If you do that, you will also lose any data that could have helped you permanently correct the problem. Bad idea.
  5. Without a scan for what is causing the issue, fixing it quickly becomes a potentially expensive guessing game. Do you have access to an OBD II scan tool of any kind?
  6. When we get one in the shop with a bad bleeder assembly, the car gets an entirely new tank; you can sometimes replace just the valve itself, but repeat failures are far too common. Get a new tank, you will save yourself grief in the long run, and do not buy an aftermarket tank, get a Porsche unit. We have seen way too many aftermarket tanks fail after short periods to ever consider using one.
  7. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Yes, you need to be careful about what year roller you buy as there are multiple system changes (CAN bus, VarioCam, fuel system, etc.) between the model years. You might want to look for someone with an IMS or engine failure, as the those cars should otherwise be in good condition. Breaking up the car is always a crap shoot as some pieces would move quickly, others not so much, and the process takes a lot of time and effort. Very few people ever benefit from going this route.
  8. The Durametric system will activate your ABS system during a bleed/flush to remove any trapped air, which is always an issue after draining the system, eliminating the need for two people. I am also not completely convinced that using two people would work on a car that had been fully or even partially drained, as activating the ABS system with a diagnostic tool activates components that pumping the pedal simply will not do.
  9. A quick scan of the car with a Porsche diagnostic tool would give you better information, but it may be the sensor.
  10. Hello Loren; Thank you for your reply; EEPROM is still working; reading and writing; but it has been deleted, so it is empty. Do you think a dealer can reprogram the key? The car is programmed to accept the key, which is what Loren is referring to.
  11. Not really, some of these "stealth" units would be so difficult to remove, it simply isn't worth while, and their removal would actually diminish the car's value.
  12. If it is a radar detector, the sensors have to have a line of sight front and rear. I'd start looking into the front grills with a flashlight.
  13. So how much was the labor? -- peer I hope you realize that you are responding to a nine year old post................
  14. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The tank is molded plastic.
  15. The indy came highly recommended by other Boxster owners, and seems to me to be operating genuinely in the best interest of the car. They went over the complete refilling operation with me and they say they did all the correct steps for proper fill - correct temperature, shift the gears, fill again, etc. I only question because I didn't see it with my own eyes so I'm including this in my list of "could it be this?". Well, not to slight your shop in anyway, but one of the most common problems with the Tip is both fluid choices and filling procedures; more often than not, we find recently serviced Tips with problems are not filled correctly, or have the wrong fluid in them. Because the filling and testing procedures take time, a lot of shops seem to try and short cut them to save money. Point taken. I'm not invested in defending nor persecuting this shop because, so far, I have no evidence of malfeasance. Fluid level is something I am very interested in checking, so I'm gearing myself up for being able to do so the weekend after this. I've read up on good ways to place the car on jack stands so I'm pretty clear on that. What I'm not sure about is which fluid I should get. Is the factory fill a ZF or Pentosin? because I'd like to use what was in the tranny from new because it did its job so well. Look at it this way: ZF makes transmissions, not fluids, so they are buying it from someone (most likely Pentosin) and relabeling it with their name.
  16. The indy came highly recommended by other Boxster owners, and seems to me to be operating genuinely in the best interest of the car. They went over the complete refilling operation with me and they say they did all the correct steps for proper fill - correct temperature, shift the gears, fill again, etc. I only question because I didn't see it with my own eyes so I'm including this in my list of "could it be this?". Well, not to slight your shop in anyway, but one of the most common problems with the Tip is both fluid choices and filling procedures; more often than not, we find recently serviced Tips with problems are not filled correctly, or have the wrong fluid in them. Because the filling and testing procedures take time, a lot of shops seem to try and short cut them to save money.
  17. That product is listed as being for a VW with a Tip transmission, so it would seem reasonable it should work, although the factory fluid is usually either a Pentosin or ZF product rather than the Febi product they used. As for correct fill levels, you need to ask whomever did it to explain how they checked it as there is a specific procedure that entails running the trans through the gears while getting it up to a prescribed temperature.
  18. Possibly, reset the code and see if it returns.
  19. P2189 Oxygen Sensing Adaptation, Idle Range, Bank 2 (RKAT2) - Above Limit Possible fault cause: - Incorrect main charge signal - Intake air system leaking - Fuel pressure too low - Volume supply of fuel pump too low - Mechanical fault in injection valves - PCV valve leaking - Cap of oil filler neck leaking - Leaks in exhaust system - EVAP canister purge valve mechanically faulty (hangs open) - EVAP canister purge valve output stage faults I would start with the easy ones - the oil filler cap and the PCV.
  20. You can't, the exhaust system needs to come off.
  21. Just remember that if the car turns out to be the 22MM center bolt, you can still them remove the rear seal on the IMS bearing so that it is lubricated by the oil mist inside the engine. While not a perfect solution, it does seem to improve the longevity of the oversized IMS bearings,
  22. 2005 was a transitional year for the M96/97 engine's IMS bearing. Some of the cars carry the single row serviceable (read can be changed without disassembling the engine or even removing it from the car), while other carry the oversized non serviceable (read the engine must be disassembled to retrofit it) bearing. The car's with the serviceable bearings carry the single row bearing, which has the highest failure rates percentage wise, cars with the non serviceable large bearing have a low failure rate, but are still known to fail. In reality, any M96/97 engine with a factory IMS bearing has some probability of IMS failure, but some are more prone than others with the 2001-2005 single row's being the worst. Unfortunately, the only proven method to know which bearing is in the engine it to pull the gear box, clutch, and flywheel, and look at the IMS bearing flange center bolt. No other methods (VIN, build date, engine number, etc.) have proven even remotely reliable. The oversized non serviceable bearing used a 22 MM center bolt and was the only one to use that size, so it is easily recognizable once it is uncovered.
  23. There should be no condensation above the coolant tank in the rear trunk, that sounds very much like you have a bad tank cap. The latest revision tank cap ends in "-04". The cap could be the entire source of your coolant loss issue. The aftermarket coils should not have been able to damage the car in anyway other than to make it misfire. You comment about having to weld up you catalytic converter is very important, because a leak in the exhaust system, even a small one, will often cause an engine to show an overly lean condition because it allows air into the system which the O2 sensors see as a mixture problem. You need to go over the exhaust system from the cylinder heads to the second O2 sensor looking for any signs of a leak (he can use his smoke wand for this). As for where you can get your EVAP valves, as well as a new tank cap, give board sponsor Sunset Porsche a call, great pricing and top notch service. D chunking shows up usually with coolant in the oil. Unfortunately, because of where this fracture occurs, you usually can only find it either with a bore scope, or by pulling the engine apart.
  24. Yes, you can smoke test components on a running car, you need to do it with a small wand which you place near the suspected item and see if the smoke is drawn in. The EVAP check valve is like a light bulb, it either works or it does not. You pull it out and see if it closes when it should; if it does not, replace it. Usually, they are stuck open by carbon build up, which cannot be cleaned out. D Chunking is the failure of the cylinder liners near their ends. This is an extreme example of what can happen: In its early stages, the chunk is still there, but the liner is cracked and allows the engine to pull coolant into the cylinder. I have addressed your other questions in a PM.
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