Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
  • Posts

    8,851
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    210

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. OK. I understand where you are. The pumps are very quiet, but not silent; they should also get warm if they are running (which is why they don't want you to run them for long periods). I would try to make the pump run (don't try and actually bleed the system) while touching it to see if it gets warm. At the end of the day, the pump could be bad.
  2. You can start by looking at the plugs, I would also plan a leak down on all cylinders, along with a pressure test of the cooling system. Depending upon how the plugs read and the leak down, I would then bore scope the cylinder's that are the most likely candidates. What worries me is the combustion by products in the coolant; there are a lot of ways for coolant to leak out of an engine, but when you start seeing combustion gases in the coolant, it is decidedly more serious and usually leads to a crack somewhere. If it is in the cylinder head, it may be repairable, or the head can be replaced. If it is in the cases, it becomes much more serious.
  3. If you used the lower fill plug, the trans cannot be over filled, and the gear oil is not the source of your other problem.
  4. If you used the forward plug, you have probably overfilled the trans and have gotten oil on the clutch. You are supposed to add fluid through the lower plug to the right, and should have used around 3L of fluid. Try removing the lower plug to the right in the photo and let the excess fluid drain off. You may just get lucky.
  5. Sorry, but I do not understand how a failing water pump allows combustion by products to enter into into the cooling system in quantity; do you have an explanation?
  6. The current poster (HELLAS59) has tested positive for combustion by products in his cooling system in addition to losing coolant and having condensation above the tank area; which points to something a bit more serious than a failing cooling tank.
  7. No...you are just a c0ck [emoji12] , there is a serious chance that this gentleman's motor has taken a turn for the worst and a smart Aleck keyboard warrior like yourself must be some kick ! OP have the car towed and good luck! We do not tolerate this type of personal attack on RennTech; this is a clear violation of the forum rules and will result in a permanent ban if repeated.
  8. Changing the gear box and/or diff fluids should not have any impact on the clutch operation. Are you sure that you used the correct fill opening, some 996/997 actually have two plugs. http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/48480-9972-transaxle-oil-and-capacity/ http://www.renntech.org/forums/tutorials/article/64-manual-transmission-oil-change-instructions/
  9. From your vacuum signal video, there does not appear to be excessive vacuum inside the engine cases. There will always be some oil residue inside the intake system, that is just a fact of life with these engines and this AOS. I would change the AOS simply because (1) You already have it, and (2) Porsche has improved the internal components, so your new one should be better made. A couple of caveats: Remove the small "J" tube that runs from the top of the AOS to the intake, and carefully examine it for any signs of cracks, etc.; we have seen these fail way too often. Secondly, I would also have good look at the long hose that runs from the lower AOS connection under the intake runners and over to the PCV unit for the same reason you would be looking at the short hose. Problem with this long hose is that you need to disconnect it at the PVC and tie a thin but strong cord to it before extracting the hose from the AOS end. By doing this, you will have the cord to snake either the existing hose (if it is good) or a replacement back into place after checking it.
  10. Some time ago, Porsche adopted the stance that they did not want their dealer tech's taking engines or transmissions apart to repair them. Several other manufacturers have also done the same thing. In their world, it make better economic sense to replace a gearbox rather than train the techs and provide the dealerships with an expansive and expensive array of tooling to accomplish this in the field. As the direct result, there are few parts available through the dealerships to fix things like leaks on transmissions that otherwise are working fine. Fortunately, there are alternatives, but ones that require some creative hunting around. Aftermarket transmission shops often have access to the parts the dealers cannot supply, as do the parts departments at other brands (VW, Audi, MB) which use very similar versions of the same transmissions, as still allow their techs to work on them. You can also consider fabricating your own gaskets from commercially available materials designed for transmission applications. Sometimes you simply need to mirror the Marine Corp attitude: Adapt and overcome.
  11. Intermittent rough idle issues are often associated with aging or dirty MAF's, as Ahsai noted. I would check the MAF parameters at warm idle conditions, and then give it a good cleaning with an appropriate MAF cleaner. This would also be a good time to clean the throttle body as well; people are often amazed at how filthy they get over time.
  12. Over the years, Porsche has used multiple styles of resistors on different models, but they all function in the exact same way. Porsche sells the resistors, albeit and some pretty stiff prices, but a lot of people have researched alternative sources and saved a lot of $ by going to the after market. The specs for the resistor is more important than its appearance.
  13. Might be the issue. I would also ask you to not double post on a single topic, which is a violation of forum rules.
  14. I just tried it and it took me to the DIY for replacing ballast resistors................
  15. Strange, I just tried it and it took me to the DIY for replacing the ballast resistors............
  16. Durametric does not report the fluid temps on a Tip, you need to either use a non contact pyrometer or a meter with a probe to get an accurate reading.
  17. I think you need tor realize that without actually seeing the car, or getting all of its background, it is nearly impossible to estimate the car's value; any number thrown out would simply be a quess. Do some research on similar cars to get a baseline, then get a PPI on the car before making an offer.
  18. Anytime.
  19. A small bead applied to both sides should do the trick.
  20. Questions are what we are here for. The answer to yours totally depends upon the condition of the metal surfaces; if they are perfectly true and free of imperfections (scratches, etc.), the gasket should be enough without sealants. However, if there are marks on the metal surfaces, or the surfaces are not completely flat, a small application of sealant would be advantageous. Just don't go nuts with the sealant, you would be surprised at how often we find gobs of excess sealant jamming up oil pump pickups.
  21. Please do not double post, it is against forum rules. Your second post has been removed.
  22. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Are you sure the difference in pedal feel is entirely due to the use of a different pressure plate? It could also be the result of the mechanics in the pedal itself (pivot point, helper assembly, etc.) and have nothing to do with the pressure plate.
  23. I don't see why you can't make you own, providing the material is oil resistant gasket.
  24. I stand corrected: Pat number 93010519801, about $2
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.