JFP in PA

Not really. Pretty much all the dealer "fixes" have been software based to date. Are you sure your car has the latest version?

There is no real "average" life expectancy for the 3.4L engine; we have customers well over 200K, while others have had to change engines much sooner, and several of those were due to IMS failures. Besides specific component related failures, how long one of these will run depends a lot more on how they have been maintained and used. As for which type of IMS bearing to retrofit, consider this: With 2000-2001 cars, you need to pull the car apart to know which style bearing you are dealing with. And as Porsche does not sell replacement bearings, but only assembled shafts (which require a total engine teardown to install), you are limited to what is available in the aftermarket. And while there are suppliers of "an OEM like" single row steel bearing, if your engine is a dual row, you would have to use the single row bearing with a spacer, which would mean you are replacing the strongest known design with the weakest. If your car is a single row, and you replaced it with the aftermarket "OEM like" steel bearing, the moment your car touches the ground, you have the exact same odds of suffering a future failure as you did when you jacked it up. But if you used a ceramic hybrid bearing (LN Engineering), regardless of bearing type, while costs a bit more, your odds of going another 100K just got a whole lot better. With components like the IMS bearings, which can cause catastrophic failures, you really do get what you pay for. You can pull just the Tip on the ground, but you will need to get the car as high as possible and you will need a trans jack. Many find it actually quicker to drop the engine and trans as a package, but you can pull the Tip by itself. How much time it is going to take depends a lot on how you are equipped, as well as how talented a wrench you are. Going non stop, by yourself and on the ground, drive up to drive off is going to be about ten to twelve hours for most, but that would assume you have the replacement bearing on hand, which in you case isn't going to happen as you won't know what you are dealing with until the car is apart. On that basis, I would suggest planning for two weekends.

Ok, but I am not sure what that means. Is it an "AT" engine?

Unfortunately, these displays are well known for doing this, and as Porsche does not supply just the display, many are forced to buy a replacement instrument cluster. On possibility is ModuleMaster (http://modulemaster.com/rebuilds/) who specialize in rebuilding these displays. Good luck, this is never a fun project.

I would check for the action of the o2 sensors before and after the cats. Specifically, you are looking for one sensor to draw a straight voltage trace, while the other on the same side cycles in a sine ware like curve. This is a descritption of what you should see, and while it is for a Boxster, the principal is the same for your vehicle:

I was referring to his following comment more so than the typo: " my new Durometric scanner appears faulty because I am able to read values but not able to activate many of the functions. e.g. the cam solenoids because the tool becomes unresponsive and locks up (with Windows 10 laptop), so I'll have to get back on the phone with tech support today"

Duncan, I completely agree with your perspective, but I can also understand where Durametric is coming from. They do have a bug reporting program, which I and I am sure others have used in the past, finding Durametric receptive to the observation, and saw the problem fixed in subsequent updates. And I have spoken with Owen Sutton on more than one occasion, and always found him to be very helpful and interested. Unfortunately, they, much like Jake Raby and LN Engineering, have started to place some distance between themselves and the general public on some technical support issues simply because they have begun to view some problems as "end user induced" that end up needlessly consuming time and resources in a "no win" situation from their perspective. And not to disparage GCP or his efforts in getting the system to work, but very similar situations crop up from time to time that do not play out well for anyone involved, and leave me scratching my head. Another Porsche site that I frequent recently had a long time member buy the Durametric system, and not be able to get it to work successfully. He also tried it on multiple computers before sending the cable back as "defective". In this case, Durametric tested the cable and said that it checked out fine, but instead of returning it, sent the purchaser an brand new unit (which they said they tested before shipment), and which he also was unable to get to work, again trying multiple computers without success (all of this was posted in a very long thread on the site). Totally disgusted, the purchaser then publicly completely bitched out Durametric, and then sold the system to another board member for a fraction of what he had paid for it. The new owner installed the system on his laptop, and it worked perfectly on the very first attempt; he even offered the original purchaser a chance to come over and use it. So sometimes these problems are not as crystal clear as they might seem. When we recently converted the shop computers over from Windows 7 to Windows 10, our Durametric system completely stopped working. A phone call to Durametric, and we were told "common problem, uninstall and reinstall the latest version of the software and you will be fine." We did, and it did.

I'm not sure if you are confusing terms here; does the car have a "rebuilt engine", or a "factory remanufactured engine"? One way of tell is to look at the engine number (just above the oil sump cover rail on the driver's side), checking for the letters "AT" in the number sequence. If it is an AT engine, it is a factory remanufactured engine, which will have its own Porsche factory warrantee, separate from the car. If it was rebuilt by a third party, you are kind of in a grey zone as the rebuild quality and/or warrantee is an unknown, and may not extend to a second owner. Third party extended warranties are a total crap shoot; some are OK coverage, others not so much. Like most legal documents, the devil is always in the details of the contract. Some have had good luck with these policies, but many have found them to be very lacking, to the point of being nearly useless. You need to read all of the fine print, looking for what is covered, and what is excluded. You also need to look at how payment for repairs is determined and made. Many shops, mine included, will no longer deal directly with firms offering this coverage as they try to dictate what the hourly labor rates should be, where replacement parts can be sourced from, and most are notoriously slow payers when invoiced by the repair shops.

Thanks for the reply. I will check tonight with the Durametric, Since all 4 sensors are new and it's happening to both banks could I have an issue is the wiring harness leading up to the sensor plugs? Or could it be something else more centralized like the ECU? Any thoughts on the cats themselves? You are getting codes for lack of communications, so if you try the read the sensors with the Durametric, you will quickly find out if they are communicating as the Durametric will see what the DME sees. Both side O2 sensor harness do come together into the main harness that goes to the DME, so it could be a loose connector or wire damage somewhere in the harness, but if the DME is reading the sensors, then they are connected properly. The DME can also be faulty, but like the three way cats, DME's cost a ton of $, so you don't want to go there without reason. It is also fairly rare for a vehicle to blow both cats at the exact same time unless something really ugly got into them, but as you have not commented about poor running issues, I don't think that is a viable possibility. You could have also had a momentary DME "brain fart" where it thought it lost touch, but really did not. If everything is working and talking to each other, I'd suggest clearing all the codes and see what comes back. Sometimes these cars just throw a ghost code(s) that are not real, and don't come back.

Several of the codes you noted indicate communications/test not completed issues with the sensors, so let's start there. The Durametric system should be able to give you real time voltage readings for the sensors, as well as graphically showing how the voltages before and after the three way cat are preforming. You need to look at those voltages and see if they are inline with specs, and how the voltages are moving. I suspect you are going to find that some of the sensors are not reading, which could be a sensor issue, but more often in a wiring or connector issue as having multiple sensors fail simultaneously is very unlikely.

Sorry that I have been away from this conversation all day, but I wanted to comment on two things: Ahsai is on the correct path concerning the codes and how to run spot system diagnostic's going forward. I can understand your frustration with the Durametric software, but I can relate that from my own experience that quite often the problems encountered with the system (failure to connect to a vehicle, inability to see or activate individual systems, etc.) are more often related to the computer the software is running on, and quite often the .NET version already installed on the machine. We have had customers bring cars to the shop that they said they could not get the system to work on at all, and the car immediately connected and obeyed commands when we hooked it up to our system. And as we are not computer geeks, but simple mechanics, I'm sure that we are not the reason our system works when others do not. And as program is also a continuous "work in progress", the Durametric system is not perfect, and probably never will be. It has been the subject of typos and other similar issues in the past, and I am sure it will be again in the future. But it is still the best Porsche diagnostic tool short of the almighty PIWIS system (which is also known to have typos and other problems itself), and it is also being updated nearly constantly, both to address shortcomings as they are identified and to adapt to changes Porsche makes to their unique diagnostic logic system.

If you are referring to rental, no, but you might want to check local rental firms. These tools are pretty pricey ($600-800) which makes purchasing for a single use questionable:

You are not the only one. This thread has jumped back and forth on several subjects and posters, which has not helped the clarity, but your synopsis is correct: P1325 is bank 2, and is a solenoid related problem, probably dirt, or an electrical failure, which I suggested in post #4. I also suspect wear pad issues because of the excessive deviation values before the VarioCam system activates on his Durametric system. The OP brought the sensor issue up in post #3, where he commented they had found a bad sensor as well, but did not mention any related codes or details. So at a minimum, there is a solenoid problem, and probable pad wear issues which need further investigation.

As it is pressed in, you either need a special tool to do it on the vehicle, or take the upright out and take it to a shop that can press it for you.

The Pelican IMS is basically a replacement stock unit, so as soon as you install it, you have the same odds of failure as the factory bearing. Pelican also does not make a dual row bearing, instead they use a single row bearing and a spacer if the engine is dual row, which amounts to replacing the strongest design factory bearing with the weakest. If you have a single row, go with the LN IMS Pro, if you have a dual row, go with the LN hybrid ceramic dual row. In either case, you could also consider the IMS Solution, which is the only permanent IMS retrofit.

The very reason I, and others, hate oil technology discussions. As I stated, the Gibbs product is high in ZDDP; and according to its manufacturer, it intends to stay high in ZDDP. Mobil, like most other oil compounders, have started reducing ZDDP concentrations in some of their products. While we have not tested every current Mobil product, UOA's have shown signs of these changes as they move to other metal salts to replace the some or all of the ZDDP previously used in their formulations to get mid or low SAPS under ACEA or API SL, CJ-4, or SM ratings. As for flushing an engine before switching oils, while doing so would aid in removing some the less advantageous additives used in mass produced oils, such as paraffinic compounds, it is not absolutely required. Yes, the new oil could be diminished slightly by residues from the previously used product, but the level is no where near problematic, as demonstrated by repeated UOA's. We have converted a lot of engines from other products directly to the DT-40 with absolutely no adverse effects. So while some engine builders would espouse a flush, not doing so remains a viable option. Lastly, we caution customers against using oils with advertised weights higher than "X"W-40 in VarioCam, and particularly in VarioCam Plus engines, as excessive oil weights have led to problems with the VarioCam system and even VarioCam related CEL's due to these systems sensitivity to oil viscosity.

Instead of the M1, take a good look at Joe Gibbs DT 40, which is an excellent year round oil for these cars. Very high in ZDDP, it demonstrates excellent film strength and resistance to high temp/high shear conditions.

The dealer is correct. They use "in service dates" rather than model years as the car could have sat on the lot for a long period before being sold.

There is no real "checking" of the IMS without pulling it, and then it needs to be replaced anyway (you cannot reuse one that has been extracted from the engine). As yours in an 01 you will need to check the flange plate in order to determine which style (single or dual row) is in the car before ordering a replacement.

It can be done with the engine in, but it is a bear; almost like building ship in a bottle. With the engine out and on a stand, it is much easier. Just how are you planning to "check the IMS"?

Ok, there was definitely no crud in there, just light deposits/staining. Fuel pressure on both pumps was ~60 psi. Though P2189 is a drivers side code (I think?) I tested on the much more accessible passenger side port. It looked like the two sides of the rail were just forked off the same stream, so I assume this was fine? I have not cleaned the MAF yet...getting it out of the lower tube is such a PITA, and you didnt think that was the culprit anyway, so Im waiting on that attempt. Can I test for vaccum leaks by spraying electrical cleaner (since it is plastic safe) on all the PCV/evap hoses and looking for jumps in idle? Yes, you can use cleaner for this, but be careful as it is flammable. I would also check the voltages on the O2 sensors, just be sure the sensor is functioning properly.

Neither cam is currently out of spec, and the code is not currently active: P0021 Adjustment of Inlet Camshaft in relation to Crankshaft, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible Possible cause of fault - Dirt in oil circuit - Sealing strips on inlet camshaft adjuster faulty - Oil pressure too low - Mechanical fault in inlet camshaft adjuster - Magnetic hydraulic valve faulty Besides the above or dirt in the oil, an intermittent cam position sensor problem on bank 2, which should not trigger until the cams go +/- 10 degrees.

Cats can rattle and still work, but they won't do that forever.

Sorry, but that link goes nowhere.

OK, here is the entire fuse system listing for your car: I would take a look at fuse holder E, fuses 1 & 2, which are 30Amp units for the power seat controls. If no fuses are out, I would again suggest having the car scanned to make sure they are actually activated. It should be similar to the one above. Take a look at the horn ring contactor behind the wheel, they are pretty well known for acting up. Should be a DIY in the archives.