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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: The vent on your gearbox is on the top of the unit on the driver's side (you can just make it out in this photo, sticking straight up near the middle of the trans): Fully drained, you can get 2.9L in one of these during an oil change. I would not be purposely running the trans low on oil; if you think it is over filled, drain it and refill it with the proper amount (you should be adding oil until it over flows out the fill plug opening).
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+1. I totally agree with Loren and Duncan; too many DIY projects go awry because of short cuts like this. You are asking for trouble using a ft. lb. torque wrench for this, they simply are way too inaccurate at such low values.
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Not really, there may be a few more thing in the way, but otherwise it should be similar.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: There is not a lot of in depth technical information around on this unit, and as Porsche no longer prints anything, wiring schematics a such are only available via subscription at Porsche TSI on line service.
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The solenoid and cam caps are not, but the cam sprockets are and should not be reused.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Your car should have an odometer, but the display may be bad which is why you can't see it. Changing out the display is not inexpensive, so if you can live without it........
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WIX XP oil filter
JFP in PA replied to j_beede's topic in 997-1 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 2S, Carrera 4S)
We use the Wix XP filters extensively, and from experience, there is absolutely no chance of that happening. -
Be careful using a torch around the alloy heads, you can permanently soften the alloy with too much heat.
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This is a holiday weekend here (Good Friday, Easter Sunday), and some forums tend to see less traffic over holidays.
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Normally, the third tensioner is not a problem and does not have to come out, but every once in a while, after pulling the first two, the flange cover refuses to budge, and then the third tensioner has to come out.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I am troubled by the sloshing sound you describe, which sounds like the system still has air in it. Once filled (without any air pockets), these engines should not need daily or even monthly coolant top ups; either the coolant is going somewhere, or the system was never fully filled. A quick test to either put your mind at ease about the possibility of a major mechanical problem would be to have your cooling system tested for the presence of combustion by products. This is done by using a special system to extract the vapor above the coolant in the tank into a device that contains a liquid that changes color in the presence of combustion by products: If you get the color change, something is given way inside the engine and you need to address that; no color change and the problem lies elsewhere. The test takes about 5 min. to run and is very accurate.
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Use the blue (medium strength) Loctite, not the red. You need to follow the LN IMS retrofit procedures to the letter (no short cuts): http://lnengineering.com/files/IMSR-Instruction-Warranty.pdf You will need to pull the two rear tensioners as described in step #7 before even attempting to pull the IMS flange cover. The object of removing the two tensioners is to release the chain tension on the bearing before the cover is removed. If this is not done properly, the shaft will jump to one side, making the bearing extraction and reinstallation impossible.
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It is not a matter of being common knowledge, it is the factory's procedure for checking cam deviation values on this particular engine.
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A fully warmed engine has always been part of the correct procedure for running cam deviation values. All of the control systems (chain tensioners, VarioCam units, etc.) in these engines are hydraulically operated which mandates a steady state temperature for both the oil and the components before the system is in its nominal running configuration.
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Thanks Ashai, nice looking kit there. In my case, only VarioCam pads get replaced. All the other components remain the same. So putting the sprocket back to where it was can not make things worse, IMO. The engine ran fine with the sprocket at that given location. New vario pads should only tighten things a little bit. I still may try out the procedure I outlined in my previous post, will see how it goes. I agree with Ahsai on this one, cam timing is a precision sport; you simply cannot "eye ball" relative component positions and expect to be successful. You need the correct tools and to use procedures, as being "almost" correct can get very expensive quickly.
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I have no direct experience with them, but perhaps another board member does.
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Also add a dab of high temperature silicone based brake grease, or a little anti seize, inside the piston bore and in its face and it will never happen again.
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Basically, cam deviation values represent how far off ideal the camshaft rotational position is in relation to the crankshaft rotational position. In these engines, the actual cam timing position on a running engine is complicated by the use of multiple chains driving the system at half crankshaft rotational speed, which are held in tension by hydraulic tensioners, and the use of hydraulic operated variable cam timing systems (VarioCam, VarioCam +) which allow the cams to advance or retard themselves in relation to the crank position at different engine speeds. As the result, the actual cam position may not always be ideal (zero degrees of deviation). The factory sets the allowed deviation from ideal to be +/- 6 degrees, but the DME will not throw a related code until the cams get much further out of position. As a point worth noting, you should never run cam deviation values on an engine that is not completely warmed up (driven for about 20 min. prior to testing). Cold engine tests can be very misleading. As you have the manual, you should also note that correctly reallocating the cams requires some special tooling to accomplish, and while time consuming, is not overly difficult.
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Oil viscosity for summer
JFP in PA replied to wildbilly32's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
And most of the Porsche GT & Cup cars do as well, and yet many of them do not run Mobil products, but do want the sponsorship $. When I raced, whosever's spark plugs, oil, tires, coolant, or whatever was paying the most money was on the side of the car; what was in the car was another story. It is all about money, period. I remember one event that was being sponsored by a pet food company; I had large dog food decals on both sides of the car, and I don't even own a dog. -
2004 C4S Engine Rebuild
JFP in PA replied to smithcd77's topic in 996 Series (Carrera, Carrera 4, Carrera 4S, Targa)
The usual factory warranty was two years, so it is long over. As it was done in 05, it is most likely the oversized IMS version which cannot be upgraded without tearing the engine apart. Many "AT" engines were done by dealers, but some were also done by independent shops. If you dealer cannot find it in the car's service records, it was done outside the dealership network. -
I always thought that placement for an access/vent was strange, some other makes use two or three horizontal slits that a mouse would have a hard time getting through. On the Boxsters, there are a couple of smaller openings near the very top of the bell housing, plus two small ones on the very bottom, none of which are that sized, but I would guess a determined mouse could still get in there. God knows they get everywhere else in these cars when they are in storage.
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They are the same. Vermin storing lunch has got to be a new one to add to the books. This opening, right? IMG_4173 (Medium).JPG Yup, here's a 997 gearbox:
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They are the same. Vermin storing lunch has got to be a new one to add to the books.
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I don't see a leak, just a lot of accumulated dirt. What are you referring to?
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Short of having the car scanned by the PIWIS, call your dealer and ask them if the version they last installed in the latest.
