JFP in PA

Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how? No, I have not, only tried conventional two people bleeding, pump pump, hold, open the valve, close, restart. Don't have a pressure bleeder, building one tonight. That method should work. If you switch to pressure bleeding, remember that the clutch pedal has to be held to the floor while doing the bleeding, then pulled up afterwards.

Here is the engine and trans number decode info: http://www.porscheclubgb.org/clientftp/Register/996/faq_engine_transmission_codes.pdf Engine number looks like a 2001 3.4L.

Have you tried to bleed it with the pressure bleeder, and if so, how?

Quite often, you cannot accurately assess the suspension noises by putting the car up on a lift that allows the suspension to go into full "droop". A better approach would be to put the car up on a drive on ramp lift that keeps the suspension in the operating position and load, and then try to replicate the sounds you are hearing.

Resolution typically requires some additional diagnostics and disassembly. The code you are throwing is often just a blocked oil passage in the solenoid valve, which is not that bad a swap out, but does require some mechanical skills. The cam deviation values are usually related to worn cam tensioner pads that simply have to be replaced. In any case, the system needs to be opened up and inspected, and the appropriate components assessed and replaced as required. Because replacing the pads requires further disassembly of the cam drive, some additional tooling and knowledge is also required. And as Ahsai noted, cam deviation values should only be noted after the engine is completely warmed up (we suggest a 20 min. drive before testing); cold or partially warmed engines lead to strange and often completely misleading test values. Both can be DIY projects if you have the necessary facilities and the time, and we often see people fabricating some of the otherwise special tooling with complete success.

P1325 Camshaft Adjustment, Bank 2 – Signal Implausible Possible fault cause: - Dirt in system - Solenoid hydraulic valve mechanically blocked . Have quick read of this: http://www.renntech.org/forums/topic/24113-obd2-fault-code-p1325-inlet-camshaft-bank-2/

I have a larger problem with this. If whomever did the oil change did not know how much to put in the engine, they probably also did not know what type of oil was correct either. I'd drain it and start over.

Ahsai is correct, they look like the later versions. I would also check the engine number for two things: Does it contain the letters "AT", and the number sequence. "AT" would indicate it is a factory reman replacement engine, but would not necessarily explain the cats. An engine code for a later manufacture date could indicate that the engine is out of a later car, which could account for the cats.

These Tips use several electronically controlled solenoid valves internally which are well known for developing problems, and one of the reasons why we recommend fluid and filter changes much sooner than the factory does.

A PIWIS should be able to do it.

If the Tip has never been serviced, I would do a fluid and filter change now. If the trans does not respond to that, there is an organic problem. Does either your Indy or the trans shop have a Porsche scan tool to go through the Tip?

Very infrequently, but when I do I use the same screen name. Ahsai is correct, the drama over there kind of takes the enjoyment out of the site. There are a couple of sites that I have declined to participate in for that and similar reasons; simply not an effective or good use of my time.

Have you pressure tested the cooling system? If it doesn't hold pressure, you could add UV dye to the coolant and try to see where it is coming from by the dye trail.

What he forgot to tell you is that an overfilled sump can result in liquid oil being sucked into a running engine, hydro locking it and destroying the engine. Bad idea.

Your oil level display should never say it is over filled, slightly under filled is better.

Plan on pulling and replacing all six plugs, and carefully look at all of your coils, particularly the one on the misfire cylinder #4. Any signs of crack or other damage, replace them.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Common problem, and the solution depends upon how over filled it is.. You can drain about 1/2 L out by dumping the filter, but if the car has way too much in it, you would be better dumping everything and properly refilling it with a new filter. Should hold around 9 quarts fully drained with a new filter.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: That document is part of Porsche's copyrighted intellectual property, which cannot be distributed or reproduced without their express written permission. As such, it is not available here, and we expressly do not encourage others to violate their copyrights.

I was just reading the reviews for the "Plus" Apple version on Amazon; pretty mixed bag with only one person out of five (including one shop pro) happy. Seems to be kind of hit or miss. But if your happy with yours, more power to you. As I said, when we looked at it, it was Android only, we were not overly impressed for our needs at that price. They may have improved it with time, but we need to go with what we know works.

JFP - have you used an ICarScan? I own both a Durametric and the ICarScan. As far as capabilities - they seem quite equal, but the ICarScan is easier to use for things like resetting different service intervals. ICarScan didn't come out of nothing - it's a product of "Launch" technologies - who is one of the largest diagnostics test manufacturers in the world. It had no problem accessing ALL the modules on my 2011 Turbo, and reading out information such as the battery specification settings stored in the Gateway. And it's not a "universal phone app" - it has software written specifically for each manufacturer that has to be downloaded, and my experience with the Porsche and BMW versions of the sotware is that it is quite complete. Not to mention the ease of taking it along in the car - just toss the OBD-II/Bluetooth dongle in the glovebox and bring your phone - you're set to go. And the price - roughly 1/2 Durametric (and no VIN# limit.) Yes, we spent some time with one with the Porsche software package some time back and at that time found that while it could do a lot of things, there were also several areas where it simply did not work on several different systems at that time, such as reading the oil condition in the Cayenne transfer case. We also had problems trying to both read or activate some systems with it as well. While they may have added features since we saw it, I really did not see it as a primary diagnostic tool at the time. The prices we saw for the app were around $200 (retail) for the system, plus another $60-70 for the Porsche extension software, which at the time put it very close to the Durametric Enthusiast package. If memory serves, it was Android only as well. I think Amazon is selling the basic system for around $225 now.

You should be moving the switch faceplate out of the opening about 5MM (1/4 inch) before rotating the switch.

If the gearbox is over filled, yes, you could be getting oil out the breather. If it is coming out the breather, you should be able to get a small mirror up top of the gearbox and see it. You could also have leaks because the breather itself is plugged or otherwise blocked, which could lead to gaskets being pushed out as well as seal leaks. I'd look at it for oil and also check it for movement (the small cap should move freely).

Up to and including model year 2010, yes; not sure about later vehicles as I have not tried one. The PIWIS system works on all model years. As mentioned earlier, iCarScan is not as capable as the other systems as it is not Porsche specific and lacks many of their diagnostic capabilities. You simply do not get as much with a universal phone app system as you do with a Porsche specific tool.

With a PIWIS or Durametric system, you are supposed to be reading out any fault codes in the engine, transmission, and transfer case, which contains a wear indicator sensor system which can throw codes if the oil is beat up enough. If there are no codes, you are fine; but if there are codes from the transfer case, it could need further service. I have no idea if the iCarScan unit can even see these sensors as we do not use it, and the last time I looked at one, we found it to be somewhat lacking compared to the other two diagnostic systems. The Durametric system can definitely see the transfer case.

Photo, year and model?