Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,763

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    202

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: More than likely, the reason you cannot pull any fluid out of the system is that it is already too low. Try filling the system, cycling the top a few times, then drain and refill.
  2. JFP in PA
    They were in the block after I removed the cylinder head (sorry for the confusion!) My next step is to look more closely at the IMS. Shards of water pump impeller. Well that's very interesting! Must be from a previous water pump, since mine has metal impellers! Get rid of that pump, you should not be using a metal impeller pump in one of these engines. I would also say that whomever installed that pump did not know what they were doing as absolutely no sealant is needed. I would also agree with Duncan, you may have a slipped gear on the IMS shaft, which would stop the cams from turning.
  3. JFP in PA
    You can see the K lead on the lower right of the diagram, circuit is DR/BK colors. I believe that it is also pin 88 at the DME.
  4. JFP in PA
    Oh boy. Question #1: Is this a legitimate PIWIS II or an aftermarket clone?
  5. JFP in PA
    Yes, it should look like this: You are going to need a wiring diagram to start tracing the K line circuit.
  6. JFP in PA
    Shards of water pump impeller.
  7. JFP in PA
    It is referring to the central locking/alarm module, which is under the driver's seat. One thing that caught my eye was fault 49, "no communications with PST 2", which says one of your main communications links (K-line) is shorted to ground. I would track that down first, as it could be the source of everything else.
  8. JFP in PA
    Basically, and signs of problems (cracking, discoloration, etc.) and the coil should be tossed. Replacements are not that expensive, and on some models, just getting at them is a chore. So if it looks at all questionable, it goes.
  9. JFP in PA
    Please do not double post, it is against forum rules. Your duplicate post has been removed. Your car has a hydraulically actuated clutch, there are no adjustments. If the system has been correctly bled, and you still have problems getting the car into gear, you most likely have a clutch failure and need to pull the car apart to see what needs to be replaced.
  10. JFP in PA
    P1538 and 1539 are codes for VarioCam actuator codes indicating no active position. Causes: – Open circuit, triggering – Open circuit, B+ supply – Actuator defective.
  11. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: To my knowledge, the Durametric Pro system will not address this issue, you need the PIWIS.
  12. JFP in PA
    I would also go under the car and read the engine number, looking for the letters "AT" in the engine number sequence to be sure if it is the original lump or a later version.
  13. JFP in PA
    Yes.
  14. JFP in PA
    I'm trying to visualize where we looking, it that looking up at the bottom of the heater box?
  15. JFP in PA
    My ambient was about 65 deg F for yesterday's run. Here's this morning's chart (60 deg F ambient; same route; but one longer episode of stop-n-go traffic) with car speed (to suggest that there is sufficient radiator air flow). I'm not convinced the tstat is the low temp variety or not defective. Of course, i'm trying to avoid cracking open the coolant system again to replace it - hence my dilemma. But I will because I want the added engine protection of the lower tstat set point. Is there a "poor man's" way to check the density of my coolant mix? Hydrometer's are not that expensive but was wondering it there's way to compare perfectly mixed brand new 50/50 with a sample from the car... I would say yes, for the simple reason that the OEM stat does not start to open until 186F and is not fully open until around 205F; your system is trying to stay below that. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant should have a specific gravity around 1.07, and a freezing point below -35F. You could check the SG using a battery hydrometer, just be sure to clean it out thoroughly before using it on a battery again. You could also check the freeze point using a readily available coolant tester:
  16. JFP in PA
    It looks slightly warm, but not by a lot. I would expect a car with the 160 stat and an otherwise clean cooling system to run 175-185F on a stead state run (copious air flow over the radiators) in 68F ambient temperatures (you also did not mention your ambient during your test). The same car with the factory stat would run 205-215F under similar conditions.
  17. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control network, a scan tool is not needed to do a brake system flush.
  18. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech To activate the cruise option, you need a Durametric Pro system, PST II, or PIWIS unit.
  19. JFP in PA
    I would also check the micro switches that trigger the window movement by tapping on them to see if the window moves.
  20. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Did you reset the window limits after installing the new regulator (procedure is in the owners manual)?
  21. JFP in PA
    Thanks JFP. I wish I had known about the "pre-mix" rule. Mea culpa. When you say "much longer", how many operational minutes or hours are we talking about? Tell me though, what might explain the change in relatively steady state oil temperature of 205 (pre) to 215 (post)? I definitely have heard of the radiators getting "trashed in" but mine are the same trashiness (from before the new pump and tstat, and after)? It could take a couple of hours of running before it reaches equilibrium. Could be an air pocket, or lower heat transfer because the system is not completely mixed.
  22. JFP in PA
    The two issues (car running hot and the water pump leaking) may not necessarily be related. We have had cars come into the shop that had the water pump, coolant, and thermostats replaced, but still ran hot. When we pulled the front bumper cover off, enough trash fell out to fill a waste paper bin. After the radiators were cleaned of junk, the car was fine. And a couple of "by-the-by's", never add pure coolant to the car, always pre dilute it with distilled water first. It may take much longer than you think for the system to reach a 50/50 dilution. If used properly, no burping should be needed when using the Uview system, that is why the tool exists.
  23. JFP in PA
    Most of the time, the light will clear itself with miles, but I would still have the car scanned just to be sure there isn't a secondary issue. A lot of auto parts stores will do this for free.
  24. JFP in PA
    We find them often when owners complain of a persistent low rumbling sound as well.
  25. JFP in PA
    Jake stopped selling individual components some time ago, and only deals in engines and retrofits now. I would check with LN Engineering: http://lnengineering.com/ for their recommendation who to contact in your area.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.