JFP in PA

It is referring to the central locking/alarm module, which is under the driver's seat. One thing that caught my eye was fault 49, "no communications with PST 2", which says one of your main communications links (K-line) is shorted to ground. I would track that down first, as it could be the source of everything else.

Basically, and signs of problems (cracking, discoloration, etc.) and the coil should be tossed. Replacements are not that expensive, and on some models, just getting at them is a chore. So if it looks at all questionable, it goes.

Please do not double post, it is against forum rules. Your duplicate post has been removed. Your car has a hydraulically actuated clutch, there are no adjustments. If the system has been correctly bled, and you still have problems getting the car into gear, you most likely have a clutch failure and need to pull the car apart to see what needs to be replaced.

P1538 and 1539 are codes for VarioCam actuator codes indicating no active position. Causes: – Open circuit, triggering – Open circuit, B+ supply – Actuator defective.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: To my knowledge, the Durametric Pro system will not address this issue, you need the PIWIS.

I would also go under the car and read the engine number, looking for the letters "AT" in the engine number sequence to be sure if it is the original lump or a later version.

Yes.

I'm trying to visualize where we looking, it that looking up at the bottom of the heater box?

My ambient was about 65 deg F for yesterday's run. Here's this morning's chart (60 deg F ambient; same route; but one longer episode of stop-n-go traffic) with car speed (to suggest that there is sufficient radiator air flow). I'm not convinced the tstat is the low temp variety or not defective. Of course, i'm trying to avoid cracking open the coolant system again to replace it - hence my dilemma. But I will because I want the added engine protection of the lower tstat set point. Is there a "poor man's" way to check the density of my coolant mix? Hydrometer's are not that expensive but was wondering it there's way to compare perfectly mixed brand new 50/50 with a sample from the car... I would say yes, for the simple reason that the OEM stat does not start to open until 186F and is not fully open until around 205F; your system is trying to stay below that. A 50/50 mix of distilled water and coolant should have a specific gravity around 1.07, and a freezing point below -35F. You could check the SG using a battery hydrometer, just be sure to clean it out thoroughly before using it on a battery again. You could also check the freeze point using a readily available coolant tester:

It looks slightly warm, but not by a lot. I would expect a car with the 160 stat and an otherwise clean cooling system to run 175-185F on a stead state run (copious air flow over the radiators) in 68F ambient temperatures (you also did not mention your ambient during your test). The same car with the factory stat would run 205-215F under similar conditions.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Unless you have gotten air into the ABS/PSM control network, a scan tool is not needed to do a brake system flush.

Welcome to RennTech To activate the cruise option, you need a Durametric Pro system, PST II, or PIWIS unit.

I would also check the micro switches that trigger the window movement by tapping on them to see if the window moves.

Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Did you reset the window limits after installing the new regulator (procedure is in the owners manual)?

Thanks JFP. I wish I had known about the "pre-mix" rule. Mea culpa. When you say "much longer", how many operational minutes or hours are we talking about? Tell me though, what might explain the change in relatively steady state oil temperature of 205 (pre) to 215 (post)? I definitely have heard of the radiators getting "trashed in" but mine are the same trashiness (from before the new pump and tstat, and after)? It could take a couple of hours of running before it reaches equilibrium. Could be an air pocket, or lower heat transfer because the system is not completely mixed.

The two issues (car running hot and the water pump leaking) may not necessarily be related. We have had cars come into the shop that had the water pump, coolant, and thermostats replaced, but still ran hot. When we pulled the front bumper cover off, enough trash fell out to fill a waste paper bin. After the radiators were cleaned of junk, the car was fine. And a couple of "by-the-by's", never add pure coolant to the car, always pre dilute it with distilled water first. It may take much longer than you think for the system to reach a 50/50 dilution. If used properly, no burping should be needed when using the Uview system, that is why the tool exists.

Most of the time, the light will clear itself with miles, but I would still have the car scanned just to be sure there isn't a secondary issue. A lot of auto parts stores will do this for free.

We find them often when owners complain of a persistent low rumbling sound as well.

Jake stopped selling individual components some time ago, and only deals in engines and retrofits now. I would check with LN Engineering: http://lnengineering.com/ for their recommendation who to contact in your area.

You said the magic words: " I drained and flushed the entire coolant system several times to remove the contamination. Since then I have run PEAK coolant and have had no problems whatsoever." As long as this is done, you can use any alloy compatible coolant in these cars with one caveat: All dealers and most independent shops are aware of the gelation issue with these cars, and as a result stick with the factory coolant to prevent issues. So if your car came into their shop after you did your flush and refill, and if the car needed a coolant top up, they would add Porsche coolant. If the aftermarket coolant is compatible, there will be no problems, but if not; well you can guess what may come next. So if you are going to use a non Porsche coolant, I would suggest putting a small label near the coolant tank saying so, just to eliminate any chance for future trouble.

The gelation problem is real, caused by mixing of the Porsche coolant with some aftermarket coolant products. Similar issues have happened with other makes of cars as well, so it is not isolated to Porsche. Normally, when this happens, the car suddenly and inexplicably over heats and refuses to cool down because gel is blocking the radiator channels and the coolant cannot circulate. Part of your problem may be an air pocket in the cooling system (because of the design layout of the car, you have long run coolant lines going to the front of the car, with both the engine and radiators higher, so it is rather easy to get air trapped in the system. The ideal method to prevent this is by using a vacuum filling system (which evacuates all of the air out of the coolant system before pulling in the fresh coolant charge, eliminating any chance of an air pocket). Porsche dealers and most independents are equipped to change out the coolant this way as it is a 5 min. process with the correct tools as opposed to trying to "burp" the air out without overheating the engine. As alloy engines do not like overheating or hot pockets in the cooling system, I would recommend not driving the car until this can be corrected.

What does the plug from that cylinder look like?

Porsche describes their coolant as "lifetime", but real world testing says that life is about 5-6 years before it starts to break down. The factory coolant is an excellent product in its own right, and while not cheap, it has been known to not play well with some other products, so it is a good idea to stay with the factory brand after you do a system drain and flush with water to clean the system out as Ahsai mentioned above. As he also mentioned, doing a through drain, flush, and recharge with a fresh 50/50 mix of the Porsche coolant and distilled water (only) will put you back in business for several years. The factory coolant is the only one we use at the shop based upon years of putting it into customer's cars. You won't go wrong with it.

You are doing fine in the spelling department, better than some that are native speakers. Along with checking the various suspension arm bushings, I would also check the wheel bearing (item #2 in your diagram), which is a common maintenance item on these cars. I would also look at the upper strut mount bearings, another squeaking noise generator.

P1325 is not IMS related. If you followed the threads mentioned, the solenoid's are mounted into the cam covers, and can be extracted without much fuss, although they are in a bit of a tight location. As such, you should be able to get at the offending unit and see if it is the external hold down that has failed (common) or it is the solenoid itself that is problematic. I would not let the solenoid go for a long period as one bank is basically running without the benefit of the VarioCam system, so the car should be down on performance at a minimum. Assuming that you properly warm the car, and the deviation values are still out of spec (+/- 6 degrees at idle), the wear pads are a bit more formidable a project as the cam covers have to come off to access them, and you are going to need cam retaining bars to hold the cams in place safely while doing this. It can be done with the engine in, but it is going to be tight, plus a lot of stuff (primarily the exhaust) has to come out just to get the cam cover off. Your attached video shows that the cam deviation values are steady, so again the IMS is not involved. Personally, I would address the solenoid first, and after that is fixed, clear the P1325 code and warm the engine before rerunning the cam deviation values. If the deviation values remains out of spec, you are faced with a choice of doing the wear pads with the engine in or out. As you are planning to do the IMS anyway, I would consider dropping the engine and doing everything on a stand (including the RMS and AOS as well). That would be much easier and less time consuming than doing it in the car, and you can go over everything else at the same time (oil leaks, etc.), then pop it back in ready to go.