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JFP in PA
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Everything posted by JFP in PA
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You are supposed to put the system in "service mode" before jacking it up. Should be in the owners manual.
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Non contact pyrometer or a kitchen temp probe are the DIY favorites.
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Hope so...wife went 20 miles to work with no issues. Why would loose intake hoses cause the DME to transmission/PSM communication issues and give a key immobilizer error? Did the throttle go crazy adjusting to the scenario and the system just threw its hands in the air and gave up? The short answer is that they shouldn't be able to do that. The loose connectors should have allowed air into the intake after the MAF, which should confuse the Hell out of the DME and cause it to try to adjust the air fuel ratio to compensate, which is totally unrelated or connected to the transmission or PSM system.
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Everyone makes mistakes.........glad you got it sorted. :thumbup:
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Low battery/alternator voltages can cause the car to illuminate MIL lights, but usually does not make it throw codes. While checking both is a good idea, I would also suggest getting the full list of codes as well.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: As there seems to be a lot of communications issues going on here, I would suggest taking it to the dealer while the CPO is still in effect.
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No. The DME is linked to multiple systems such as the immobilizer/alarm computer by coding, and if the coding does not match, the vehicle will not run.
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Thank you JFP , maybe i will try first to take the head Bank2 out with engine in but not sure that i can remove from the head the exhaust manifold ! what you think about exhaust manifold The exhaust manifold's are always a pain because you end up with broken bolts.
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It would be easier, and quicker, to drop the engine. You can pull the heads on the V6 with the engine still in, but the V8 is much tighter.
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Depends upon the year, model, and how it is equipped.
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99 boxster leaving me stranded
JFP in PA replied to tthomas's topic in 981 Series (Boxster, Boxster S)
I would also take a look at the crank position sensor, which is famous for failing hot on the Boxster. When the CPS goes out, the DME thinks the engine is not turning and won't let the car fire. -
Yup. When something fails under vacuum, you usually get a loud noise and an implosion; when things fail under 100 psig of air pressure, you get loud noises followed by shrapnel.
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Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I would look at the internal motion sensor (33 - passenger compartment monitoring sensor) which is supposed to detect motion inside the car. We have seen this tripped by excessive sun heat and even an insect moving around inside the car.
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Yes, we have used that system. A couple of customers have noted that they experienced some droning a highway speeds however.
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The engine compartment fan is controlled by a temp sensor mounted near the intake manifold, or the coolant temp sensor itself, that triggers the fan when: "Switch-on conditions for engine compartment fan (this fan pulls air into the engine compartment) The engine compartment fan is switched on when the engine compartment temperature is > 176 degrees F or the coolant temperature is > 216 degrees F. After-running of engine compartment fan If the ignition is switched off and the engine compartment temperature is more than 140 degrees F, the DME control module remains in readiness for another 20 minutes. During this time, the engine compartment temperature is retrieved every 10 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is > 185 degrees F , the engine compartment fan is switched on for 20 seconds. If the engine compartment temperature is still > 185 degrees F after this time, the fan remains on for a further 30 seconds."
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You might be surprised what you find in there, we actually found a dead bird once:
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Your idea is fine as well, only I have found it is easier for most DIY'ers to pull vacuum rather than go to pressure. Usually also results in fewer fatalities. :eek: With a little jury rigging, you can even use the Airlift vacuum filling tool to do this.
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There are four round openings on the bottom of the cooler, two in and out passages for the oil and water. The easiest way to test it is to plug one opening and pull a vacuum on the other for each loop, taking the vacuum down to around 24 inches or so, and then seeing if it holds for 10-15 min. A simple hand vacuum pump is all that is needed, along with some rubber plugs.
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The only legitimate source for complete and up to date Porsche technical information since they stopped publication in 2004 is their subscription TSI program.
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The engine oil coolers do fail.
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That PDF file is more than a little out of date. On your Boxster, the oil cooler is accessible by simply draining the cooling system and removing the air tube running from the air filter box to the throttle body, leaving the cooler out in the open. To replace it, you need to remove four bolts, disconnect the air bleed line on the top of the cooler, lift the cooler slightly, sliding a plastic bag under the cooler before starting to pull it out (the plastic bag is there to catch the residual oil and coolant which is going to come pouring out when you tilt the cooler to remove it; without the bag it is going to get all over the place). You will need four new O-rings (two each of the different sizes the cooler uses), do not even think about using the old O-rings, they will leak. Once the new unit is in place, torque the bolts to 7.5 ft. lbs. using an inch pound torque wrench (that would be 90 inch pounds). You will need to thoroughly flush out the cooling system using a system cleaner and lots of clear water, then refill the cooling system and you are back in business. I would also highly recommend pressure or vacuum testing the old cooler to confirm it is the source of your problems.
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That link does not lead anywhere, so I cannot comment. Most of Fabspeed's stuff can be installed by any competent muffler shop, or an auto repair with stainless welding experience.
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Well, the system uses the same temperature sensor that runs your dash temp gauge, so altering one would change both, which might not be as useful. Some track rats have wired up a manual override switch to force the fans to run, which does not interfere with the automatic system, so that might be a pathway. Another way to go would be to add a third radiator up front, which significantly increases the heat transfer capacity of the car, but is going to require more effort and expense. Are you sure your radiators are clean? You would be surprised at what we find when we open up a car with overheating problems.
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In a word, no. The fan on temps are built into the DME base coding and cannot be altered by either a PIWIS or Durametric system.
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airbox
JFP in PA replied to mbagge01's topic in 9PA, 9PA1 (Cayenne, Cayenne S, Cayenne Turbo, Cayenne Turbo S)
Any differences in air flow should be adjusted and compensated for by the DME.