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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    I do not see this listed, are you saying this is in the manual that came with the Cayenne? Mine says to just check it every 40k. If it needs replaced at 60k then I am at my mileage limit, yet the belt literally looks brand new with no signs of wear, cracking or hazing. And it probably will continue to look "brand new", right up until it leaves you stranded at midnight in the rain. Change it, they are not that expensive.
  2. JFP in PA
    Weird, P0102 indicates that the MAF sensor is flowing below limits, which is usually either a bad MAF or a wiring issue. P1340 indicates that your timing chain is out of position on bank 1. All of the rest of the codes say all the bank 1 cylinders are misfiring. I would start by doing a complete recheck of the wiring harness connections on bank 1. Doing the plugs, you may have knocked a connector loose.
  3. JFP in PA
    I think you may have the wrong fluid. The spec for the car is Esso ATF LT71141 or equivalent only and I don't see ZF Lifeguard 6 meeting that spec. Check the containers you got it in, but I think that may be at least part of your issue. EDIT: OK, I've now read further on ZF fluids, and ZF Lifeguard 6 is not the correct fluid for your car. Problem is that you are now going to have to do multiple drain, fill, run, drain agin cycles to get all of it out of the car (gravity drains only get about 40% of the fluid out). Good luck.
  4. JFP in PA
    Pulling the engine is not at all difficult, depending upon how you are equipped and your level of mechanical expertise. It drops out the bottom of the car.
  5. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: What ever it is, with knocking sounds, it is not good. I would not be running the car, but I would be scanning it to see what pending codes are stored. If you just did the plugs and coils, you may have reversed one or more of the coil connections and it is firing out of sequence.
  6. JFP in PA
    If you have metal shavings in the oil, the codes don't really matter; the critical issue is where are the shavings and noise are coming from. I would stop running the car immediately, check the shavings you have to see if they are ferrous; I would also pull the engine; something is not good and is not going to get better.
  7. JFP in PA
    It would help to have the year and model of the car in question. Are you absolutely sure the fluid is the correct one for the transmission?
  8. JFP in PA
    Thats cool, Ill make a site donation instead. Im not ready to go that far, but thanks for the optimism :D And thank you for your continued support of RennTech :thumbup:
  9. JFP in PA
    Thanks for the offer, but it is completely unnecessary. Glad you got it sorted.
  10. JFP in PA
    Not personally , but I did read of a case some time ago.
  11. JFP in PA
    That is always a possibility.
  12. JFP in PA
    The procedure's are exactly the same for both systems.
  13. JFP in PA
    A Porsche specific diagnostic tool is always the best approach as it can seen things a global OBD II system cannot. I have not idea why the car's level control it not working properly, but it also may need recalibration.
  14. JFP in PA
    I don't think it is necessarily your DME, but several of those faults look to be communications issues on the CAN bus network.
  15. JFP in PA
    Not so much the comfort level, but maybe Im not understanding the simplicity of access :huh: Can I get to the terminal and primary wire just by removing the tire and wheel well liner? If not, and you have to go through the first parts of the alternator removal process, I dont see how you could do that, hook everything up, and still have the engine run. Edit: Im sure your way is much more thorough and appropriate, so dont think this is a counter argument :cheers: I just read the instructions that came with the load tester. It says to just hook up to the battery terminals and when you rev to 12-1500rpm it will run a charging system draw to test the alternator. That method is a bit more basic and will show the voltage response, but not validate the diodes functions or provide an amperage output value. For simplicity, try their methodology and see where you are before digging in further.
  16. JFP in PA
    To fully test the system, you need access to: Both the positive and negative battery terminals (for load test device heavy cables). The terminal lug on the back of the alternator where the primary wire attaches (for checking diode ripple). The alternator primary wire itself (for an amp meter to clamp around and measure current draw). If this is outside your level of comfort, I'd suggest taking it to a shop to have it tested.
  17. JFP in PA
    Wait, so I need to tear in and get alternator access to test the alternator? Yes, you need to access the primary wire on the alternator.
  18. JFP in PA
    Does the alternator test need to be done at the alternator terminals? That sounds dicey... Clamps on the battery, but with an amp meter clamped on the positive alternator lead to read amperage draw, which shows how the unit is responding to the load on the battery. Again, many auto parts stores have this setup for free use by customers, so check you local before buying the hardware.
  19. JFP in PA
    Thanks! Can testing be done at the jumper terminals by the brake fluid? No, it has to be done at the battery terminals.
  20. JFP in PA
    This one says its good for 125 amps and I can pick it up tomorrow in store: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200611634_200611634 Google isnt turning up much for testing the alternator with a load tester (it is all multimeter)...how do you do it? Instructions should come with the unit, but this is the basics: http://www.delcoremy.com/MediaLibraries/DelcoRemy/DelcoRemy/Literature/Troubleshooting/Delco-Remy-Charging-Troubleshooting-Guide-8-13.pdf
  21. JFP in PA
    With my battery pushing 3 years and the battery from Advance Auto being such a good deal I just went and got it. If the air suspension works properly again after install thats probably a good sign. I did the "turn everything on" alternator load test suggested in ekstroemtjs old thread. Idling with headlights, rear defrost and A/C on, Im at 13.6v. My multimeter broke so I dont have the greatest capabilities at the moment. The fact that the live data read 9.5v the first time I tested a startup would at least suggest the battery isnt great right? If the new battery doesnt make an immediate difference (suspension) Ill get a meter and do some better testing. Could be, but I would not be swapping out anything with out testing first. The correct way to test a battery and alternator is with a load testing device, which puts extreme loading on each while also monitoring how each responds. The devices themselves are not particularly expensive, and many auto parts stores now have them available for customers to use for free. This is the one we use in the shop, very quick and accurate testing, and it cost about $75:
  22. JFP in PA
    I dont know how accurate the DME live data feed voltage is, but I had 12v at rest, 9.5V when starting the car, and 13.6-13.9 running. Voltage is slightly low, normal range is 13.5-14.5V. I would load test both the battery and alternator.
  23. JFP in PA
    I would note the codes, and clear them, then test the car again. If the same codes come back I'd start with the throttle position sensor system, which seems to be the source of many of the codes, but I would load test the battery and check the alternator voltage as well.
  24. JFP in PA
    To my knowledge, every car came with a dash equipped for cruise, regardless of if the car had the option or not. The Porsche parts list does not list a "non cruise" cluster, so yours must have it, and according to the owners manual for your car, it should be in the speedometer section, not the warning lights section (page 84 of the attached: http://www.porsche.com/all/media/pdf/Owners_Manual_Boxster_PCNA.pdf). Most likely, your car simply does not have the bulb installed. Thanks for your reply. In the Owner's Manual that came with my car it says the Boxster (2.5L engine) has the warning light on the speedometer. My car is the Boxster S (3.2L) and the manual indicates the Cruise Control Indicator Light is on the 'warning lights section'. You are partially correct, this is the "official" image of the dash that is in your car: There are two cruise indicators possible, 3A and 3B. 3A is for the base car (which is a 2.7L, not a 2.5L which was discontinued a couple years earlier), 3B is for the 3.2L S car. In any case, again, the parts listing does not show anything about "with cruise" or "without cruise" part number option; so I would still look for either a missing or non functional blub. Awesome photo. My car is 3B. Is there a possibility that the instrument cluster/warning lights & DME didn't get activated for cruise control by my mechanic? Not likely, the cruise activation is a single step process, so it should be active if the cruise is working.
  25. JFP in PA
    Do a search on removing and drying the internals of the box under the seat, some can be recovered this way. If that does not work, the car will need to be flat bedded to the shop.
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