Jump to content

Welcome to RennTech.org Community, Guest

There are many great features available to you once you register at RennTech.org
You are free to view posts here, but you must log in to reply to existing posts, or to start your own new topic. Like most online communities, there are costs involved to maintain a site like this - so we encourage our members to donate. All donations go to the costs operating and maintaining this site. We prefer that guests take part in our community and we offer a lot in return to those willing to join our corner of the Porsche world. This site is 99 percent member supported (less than 1 percent comes from advertising) - so please consider an annual donation to keep this site running.

Here are some of the features available - once you register at RennTech.org

  • View Classified Ads
  • DIY Tutorials
  • Porsche TSB Listings (limited)
  • VIN Decoder
  • Special Offers
  • OBD II P-Codes
  • Paint Codes
  • Registry
  • Videos System
  • View Reviews
  • and get rid of this welcome message

It takes just a few minutes to register, and it's FREE

Contributing Members also get these additional benefits:
(you become a Contributing Member by donating money to the operation of this site)

  • No ads - advertisements are removed
  • Access the Contributors Only Forum
  • Contributing Members Only Downloads
  • Send attachments with PMs
  • All image/file storage limits are substantially increased for all Contributing Members
  • Option Codes Lookup
  • VIN Option Lookups (limited)

JFP in PA

Moderators
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    8,732

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    199

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Possible bad electrical section of the ignition switch.
  2. JFP in PA
    Dealer item, try Sunset Porsche, a board sponsor: http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/
  3. JFP in PA
    There is an obvious communications issue when they try to set up the control module. Unfortunately, it is nearly impossible to even hazard a guess as to what is wrong without further diagnostics, which means an open ended search for the fault.
  4. JFP in PA
    Duplicate posting deleted by moderator. Please re read the forum rules you agreed to when joining concerning multiple thread posts on the same subject.
  5. JFP in PA
    You can see the wire retaining clip in this photo:
  6. JFP in PA
    "A car..........."
  7. JFP in PA
    Actually, it may not. Wet belt slippage is a common complaint on these cars, even with brand new belts.
  8. JFP in PA
    Should be battery voltage.
  9. JFP in PA
    As your central locking unit seems to be responding (beeping and not locking), there is probably nothing wrong with it. As for the missing parts, those you are going to need to be sourced. It sounds more like you have a bad lock mechanism, which will have to be replaced (be sure to check both doors).
  10. JFP in PA
    That totally depends upon the integrity of the rest of the muffler; if it is otherwise in good shape, it should hold for a long time.
  11. JFP in PA
    That should not be left as is, both because in many states, you would fail inspection for that, plus it is leaking CO under the car, which can be dangerous, particularly in the winter. Depending upon how solid the surrounding metal is, it could be welded.
  12. JFP in PA
    That's it.
  13. JFP in PA
    We no longer have the pipe coupler, but it is a common white CPVC pipe coupler found at Lowes or Home Depot. Just be sure it has the internal shoulder than the pipes would normally butt up against. The shoulder is important because that is what the flywheel bolts rest on while inserting the seal.
  14. JFP in PA
    Your convertible top is not in the expected position. Could be sensing micro switch, or the top is not set properly and needs to be recalibrated.
  15. JFP in PA
    Sounds like you may have a clutch fork pivot issue.
  16. JFP in PA
    hi hope you can read my question. i changed the transmission oil i got 4 liters out and i put 4 liters in. but the owner told me they just replace the tranny oil couple of months so i did not change the transmission filter. and put the 4liters of oil. after this the engine lights on and P( parking ) and D4 start blinking. i can still drive but it drives me crazy and scared. pls tell me what to do before i take it to the shop and charge me arm and leg Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Get the car scanned with a Porsche specific scan tool, looking for transmission codes.
  17. JFP in PA
    Now that we have gotten past that one, check your bulbs on the side blinking fast to be sure they are illuminating properly (could be a bad bulb), otherwise I would look at the turn signal flasher module, it may be going south.
  18. JFP in PA
  19. JFP in PA
    JFP, I just checked GP2 and GP3 per Bentley Manual. Both are secure and wires look good. I'm running out of ideas... Yes, but did you check them with a multimeter for continuity and resistance? OK, that was easier than I thought. So both circuits involved had a nominal amount of resistance, around 3 ohms. I'm thinking that indicates we have continuity. I'm wondering now if there's a bad connector at the headlamp. The connector at the foglight looks good. I guess I should check for continuity between the headlight connector and fog connector next? Three ohms strikes me as higher than I would expect. Yes, I would also check the headlight connector as well.
  20. JFP in PA
    JFP, I just checked GP2 and GP3 per Bentley Manual. Both are secure and wires look good. I'm running out of ideas... Yes, but did you check them with a multimeter for continuity and resistance?
  21. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech. Check the grounds on the light in question.
  22. JFP in PA
    OK, let's take this one bit at a time. Coolant lines on a 996: Very few AOS failures result in an intermix problem; usually when the AOS fails you get clouds of smoke from oil being sucked into the intake due to excessive vacuum in the system. I replace these things for a living, and every 996 leaving the shop has the coolant version. The 986 has never shown any freeze up tendencies, so no coolant is necessary. Because the AOS connection to intake vacuum is actually behind the throttle body, you will never see any oil in the TB. If you are pulling 10-11 inches of water at the oil fill cap (a good AOS will pull 4-7 inches of water on a cold start, but level off at 5 inches or less vacuum warm), your AOS is toast and should be changed out before you start sucking liquid oil into the intake, which can hydro lock the engine and kill it. Buy a new factory (not aftermarket) AOS and change it before something really stupid happens. That's pretty straight to the point, I appreciate the advice and will get the part on order. I wonder what that plastic tube coming into my intake track just before the TB is if not AOS connection... I have the X-51 kit in case that makes a difference in your response. thx The AOS vacuum connection has to be after the throttle body, or there would be no vacuum. The intake ahead of the throttle body is at atmospheric pressure.
  23. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech :welcome: P1043 Electric air cleaner flap Possible fault causes - Short circuit to B+/ground or open circuit in the control line - Open circuit of power supply to air cleaner flap solenoid valve - Air cleaner flap solenoid valve faulty - DME control module faulty These look like a problem with the air cleaner/intake flap. All the rest are cylinder misfire codes. I would address the flap issue, clear the codes and see if any of the misfires return.
  24. JFP in PA
    OK, let's take this one bit at a time. Coolant lines on a 996: Very few AOS failures result in an intermix problem; usually when the AOS fails you get clouds of smoke from oil being sucked into the intake due to excessive vacuum in the system. I replace these things for a living, and every 996 leaving the shop has the coolant version. The 986 has never shown any freeze up tendencies, so no coolant is necessary. Because the AOS connection to intake vacuum is actually behind the throttle body, you will never see any oil in the TB. If you are pulling 10-11 inches of water at the oil fill cap (a good AOS will pull 4-7 inches of water on a cold start, but level off at 5 inches or less vacuum warm), your AOS is toast and should be changed out before you start sucking liquid oil into the intake, which can hydro lock the engine and kill it. Buy a new factory (not aftermarket) AOS and change it before something really stupid happens.
  25. JFP in PA
    I have no idea what some of those number are, but the Sachs and Luk kits are the same parts units, and the last time I checked, the cheapest pressure plate, disc, and throw out bearing sources were Sunset Porsche or Rock Auto.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.