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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Simple: The Cayenne is the only Porsche model that uses VW based control technology, none of the other models do this. Find a 996 and try Ross-Tech system and you will see why even Ross-Tech recommends the Durametric system for Porsches.
  2. Take a word of advice from someone that does these retrofits for a living: Don't try to reinvent the wheel, buy the LN kit and install it. You will be happy that you did. I do appreciate the advice. You certainly have more experience than I. However, I spent a great deal of time researching the topic on this and other forums and don't want to have yet another thread full of opinions about the IMS. Suffice it to say, I have my reasons for going to route I chose. Now, I just need to find the **** part! Then you face a bit of a conundrum: As you have discovered, both the bearing and the center bolt are typically irreparably damaged during the process of extraction and should never be reused for that reason. And the only way you can get a new center bolt is to buy a complete new bearing kit. Good luck.
  3. Take a word of advice from someone that does these retrofits for a living: Don't try to reinvent the wheel, buy the LN kit and install it. You will be happy that you did.
  4. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: I would suggest going to board sponsor Sunset Porsche's parts website and look up the parts for yourself : http://www.sunsetporscheparts.com/?gclid=Cj0KEQjwh428BRCnvcyI-5nqjY4BEiQAijebwsqIyfF5ZokaEPFkrz-k03mAyqwoUR_lfW3hRRH-g2oaAsc08P8HAQ
  5. There are no replacement center bolts sold separately, you have to buy the entire kit. Porsche now only sell the IMS as an assembled shaft, costing $1K and requiring engine disassembly to install.
  6. Just be aware that retrofit HID kits in non projector head lights are illegal in some states due to being non DOT and causing severe glare to on coming driver's (read ticket bait), and will also cause the car to fail its annual safety and emissions inspection. We are forced to fail cars for this regularly.
  7. OK, a couple of things possible: Have you suffered any shorts or arcing at the battery lately? Reason I ask is that there is a power distribution block on the inside of the firewall on the passenger's side that carries the heavy amperage loads, like the starter. It contains several large bolt in fusible links which are replaceable, and often the source of non start after an arc has occurred. The immobilizer control unit is under the driver's seat, and also has its own fuse in the box itself. You will not be able to see the immobilizer on any scan tool other than a Porsche specific unit like the Durametric, PST II, or PIWIS systems. Of these, the Durametric is the most reasonably priced at around $300.
  8. Oil pressure is normally tested with a mechanical test gauge:
  9. While the Autel MD802 is a fine global OBD II tool, it still lacks much of the ability of the Durametric system.
  10. There are no "legitimate repair manuals" for this vehicle, Porsche never produced them in print, but only in an electronic form which requires a PIWIS TSI subscription to view online.
  11. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Yes, it could be a DME issue, but a proper scan should pick that up. The codes you have already gotten indicate no signal from the CPS (P0335) and the inability to get a comparison between the cam position sensor on bank #1 and the CPS (P0012), which would seem probable if the CPS were bad, but you have already replaced that. What concerns me is the jumping tack, which is very abnormal. I would get the car scanned with a Porsche specific diagnostic tool for pending codes as the first step.
  12. I'm sorry, but along with a lot of specific knowledge about this engine, you are going to need specialized tooling, such as the Cayenne camshaft timing tools to do this type of repair: And these tools are both quite expensive, and have only one use, for setting valve, cam or VarioCam timing and also requires a regulated air source between 5.0 and 5.5 bar to complete the repairs. This is well outside what I would suggest is a "do-it-yourself" type repair for someone that has not done it before, or had special training on this engine.
  13. Specify what? Loren has given you the probable fault causes for each code, now you need to check each the probable faults to see which one it is.
  14. If you hit 16 volts, I would not be surprised to find some electronics damage.
  15. Would not be at all surprised as that version is more than 10 years old and predates the cable change................
  16. First of all, you have a very out of date version of Durametric; you have 3.0.15.0, the current version is 6.5.2.0. This may be part of the problem. If what this system is seeing is correct, the ABS module is not communicating. This could be a faulty module, or a wiring issue.
  17. Either the bearing in the front of the compressor, or the compressor clutch bearing may be seized. In any case, I would suggest taking the car to someone with the necessary equipment to diagnose and repair the system.
  18. Check the side ground for contact, the OEM lighter plug in these cars are DIN standard size, a lot of lighter plug in adaptors are not and only make loose contact.
  19. Check the compressor plug, it is not making full contact when inserted into the lighter socket, or it has blown its internal fuse.
  20. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: Be extremely careful with aftermarket bulbs in these headlights. Many of them run much hotter than the factory bulbs and end up melting the lenses: If you want better, and much brighter headlights, look around for someone selling the Litronic HID factory lights for either the 996 or early (986) Boxsters (they are all the same). These are way brighter, but actually run cooler than the halogens.
  21. Welcome to RennTech :welcome: When asking questions like this, it is always good to include the year and model and they are not always the same.
  22. Normally, when the switch goes bad, strange electrical things start to occur. Lights won't turn off or turn off unexpectedly; other accessories (radio, dash displays, etc.) do not function properly, etc. Commonly referred to as 'electrical gremlins'.
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