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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. Yes, like any other bolt or fastener, the tensioner can fail. It is not a common failure, but it can happen. Changing it out depends upon how you are equipped, it is difficult to get at without moving the engine due the proximity to the cross member, but I have been told it can be done.
  2. Porsche came out with a PTFE replacement RMS about six or seven years back that has now replace the original seal design for the 986/996/997 cars. The PTFE seal has proven itself to be a bullet proof replacement for the original Viton seal, although it must be installed at a different depth from the crank flange face, requiring a special tool. The GT motorsport seal apparently was designed to deal with larger tolerances and became a popular, if expensive, replacement until the PTFE seal hit the market (the PTFE seal retails for less than $20). The only applications (on the street) now for the GT3 seal is on the early engine cases that test out of round for the standard seal and therefore need the beefier GT seal. We literally have hundreds of the PTFE seals on the street (and track), and have never seen or heard of one leaking.
  3. Without the UV coating, the lenses will fog or become milky over time from the effect of sunlight on the plastic.
  4. This should give you everything you need: Sunset Porsche parts catalog
  5. To give you some idea of how common this problem is, Porsche actually released a TSB about the cables when they released the updated parts. Soon as it gets hot, and it is 100F here today, we start getting calls with the same parameters. Fortunately, the fix is both inexpensive and relatively easy.
  6. Actually, what we a both saying, if I can speak for Duncan, is to do a voltage drop test across the cables before changing anything. That will tell you exactly where the problem lies, and what needs to be replaced.
  7. This is a common hot weather complaint at the shop. Porsche has actually updated the cables to help eliminate the problem.
  8. Loren-

     

    Shark175 reported not being able to add a comment to a DIY thread.  I checked and was able to use either the reply box or the add to icon, which he says do not appear when he logs on.

     

    Thanks.

  9. At this juncture, I don't know what to tell you as I just went there and both were available. We will investigate further.
  10. If you are properly signed in, a reply box should appear at the bottom of the tread. "Reply to this topic" icon should also be at the top right of the thread.
  11. To be completely fair, it is very difficult to isolate a sound from a video clip, and often very difficult even when standing in front of the car. That said, candidates are chain tensioners, and possibly a cam follower. You need to get the car in front of a qualified mechanic to trace it further. Good luck.
  12. Simple: Resistance. If you have corrosion somewhere in the wiring network, the resistance will rise with the temperature, eventually reaching a level where things stop communicating, and systems stop working.
  13. Usually isn't necessary, but if you want to do it, just unplug the MAF sensor.
  14. Why? Just unplug the connector at the MAF if you really want to.
  15. I am beginning to lean towards a wiring or DME internal issue. P0335 is a lack of continuity (read it is unplugged) for the CPS; P0341 is for an alternating signal on the bank 1 cam position sensor; P1341 is for a discrepancy between the cam and crank sensor on bank 1 (which would be obvious if there is no CPS signal). While all DME get warm while running, you should not be able to keep your lunch warm on it. The ABS and cluster codes look like communications issues as well. It may be time to get a multi meter and start checking the DME to sensor wiring for continuity, and checking harness connectors for being either loose or corroded. Do you have a non contact pyrometer to measure the actual heat output for the DME?
  16. If your wiring and socket check out on resistance, I would also try another brand bulb; we have seen some do this for no apparent reason, and the warning disappeared when another bulb was installed.
  17. One would hope the clutches last, the clutch pack, in a box on the parts counter, is nearly $6K.
  18. No, at idle you will be fine. I should be in the engine section.
  19. It exits directly below the battery tray area, beneath the car. You can also disconnect the vent line and run some clear water through it as well.
  20. You should be able to activate the cam units one at a time with the Durametric software, which will cause the cam timing display to change and impact how the care idles.
  21. Are you getting these codes while testing the car while it is not running? Reason I ask is that you are possibly are getting the CAN Bus codes because the system is timing out and going to sleep on you. Try clearing all of the codes, running the car, and then rechecking them, but this time if you turn the car off, leave the four way flashers on, which will keep the car from timing out and going to sleep on you.
  22. You have multiple cylinder misfires, a common problem on these vehicles when they develop coil pack issues. I would plan on pulling the coils and plugs with an eye towards replacing several.
  23. No. With the engine running, and the trans in gear, the front pump is running at full pressure and everything is full. One further query JFP, how important is it to drain all fluid from the system ie. from cooling lines etc? The only way to get all the fluid out of the trans is to take it out of the car and then take it apart, which is ridiculous for obvious reasons. There are no external ATF lines on these transmissions, the cooler is mounted to the side of the trans and engine coolant is run to it. You can get most (80-85% of what is not in the converter) of the ATF out of the trans by a simple gravity drain, but this is still only about half the total system capacity, the rest of which remains trapped inside valve body passages, clutch packs, etc.; with the lions share of the remaining fluid trapped inside the torque converter itself. Because of this retention of old fluid, it is a good idea to shorten the maintenance cycle from the factory 90K miles to something in the range of 40K miles for a street car, less for one that is tracked regularly. For a trans that has fluid in very bad shape, multiple fill, run, and drains remains the best option to get as much out as is possible.
  24. The first three look about average, the next two however look a tad on the rich side. I would agree with Ahsai, get the fuel trims read and also look for any stored or pending misfire codes, which will point to specific cylinders.
  25. Call board sponsor Sunset Porsche in Beaverton OR; they should be able to help you.
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