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JFP in PA

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Everything posted by JFP in PA

  1. JFP in PA
    It is a one way valve that is in the end of the cam cover that opens under vacuum. I would also seriously consider running a leak down on the engine that develops pressure; if you have a bad ring in one or more cylinders, or the more common out of round cylinder liners, your problem is more serious. You should not have pressure in the cases while the engine is running.
  2. JFP in PA
    No, the cams must be locked as well.
  3. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech Yes.
  4. JFP in PA
    A good AOS will pull between 3-6 inches of water on a first start of a cold engine, but will then settle down to 5" or less, so anything over 5" on a warm engine is suspect and should be replaced. Secondly, with your crankcase jumping back and forth between vacuum and pressure, your AOS can also be "fluttering", working some of the time, but not all the time. New AOS unit can be bad, we have seen more than a few. Aftermarket (read non factory) AOS units have been a disaster, with many failing within days of being installed. We do not use anything but factory AOS units, and we still check everyone after it is installed because we still see bad ones from time to time.
  5. JFP in PA
    For future reference, please do not multiple post on the same topic in different threads. It is against forum rules. As point out in the other thread, you have a vacuum leak in your brake booster vacuum line that letting air directly into your intake and causing a lean miss. Fix the leak, you problem will go away.
  6. JFP in PA
    The answer is yes, it can cause a lean misfire as it is leaking outside air directly into the intake manifold.
  7. JFP in PA
    Welcome to RennTech I would have to say that the AOS is bad. We check every car that passes through the shop with a digital manometer, and if any one exceeds 5 inches, we recommend replacing the AOS. You also should not be swinging from vacuum to pressure in the crankcase as the low tension piston rings will loose seal. With the engine running, you should always have some level (3-5 inches of water) in the cases. You also have a PCV-like valve at the cam cover end of the long AOS line, which may be momentarily sticking. Not a lot of fun to get at, but not expensive to get a new one.
  8. JFP in PA
    It is a relatively simple DIY project. Do a search, been written up here several times.
  9. JFP in PA
    Everything is expensive at the dealer, which is why more people are doing this kind of repair by themselves.
  10. JFP in PA
    Doesn't matter if it was changed 3 miles ago, it still needs to be tested. A lot of problems like this are traced to the alternator rather than the battery.
  11. JFP in PA
    Check both the voltage output of your alternator, and if you have the equipment to do so, load test the alternator as well. ABS/PSM faults are common when the available voltage drops too low.
  12. JFP in PA
    You have far too much time on your hands
  13. JFP in PA
    You are dead in the water. There is no way to program the car to accept the keys without the factory codes.
  14. JFP in PA
    First of all, the keys are not programmed, the car is programmed to accept the keys. This requires the use of a PST II or PIWIS on the car in question. You will also need the factory code tags that should have come with the keys.
  15. JFP in PA
    You need to be aware that the later Tips use different electronics to control them, so to be safe, you should stay as close to the same year as possible.
  16. JFP in PA
    Not a chance. When you take off the sump cover, you will not seen any bearings. All the bearings are inside the crank carrier and cases
  17. JFP in PA
    P1602 indicates a loss of power to terminal 30 of the DME, which will erase all adaptation values stored in the DME. Usually, this is a wiring or DME connector issue, and rarely a DME fault. That alone is going to aggravate the Hell out of everything.
  18. JFP in PA
    The only way you would know if the TSB has been applied is to have the dealer check, if it was, it should be in their system. TSB's, like nearly all Porsche technical literature, is protected by copyright, so reproduction or distribution is a violation of their intellectual property rights, which the pursue and prosecute vigorously. As such, we cannot post them on the website.
  19. JFP in PA
    To follow up on what Ahsai has outlined, you need to: Load test the battery Voltage and load test the alternator Check the voltage drop across the primary battery cables You should have a 40-60 mA draw on the battery for about 1 hour or so after the car is shut off. Any more than that and you have a parasitic drain on the system. Lesson to be learned: Do not assume anything when it comes to diagnostics, even at the dealer. You should have gotten a detailed break down of what they tested and what they found. We regularly see cars that were just at the dealers, and they completely missed an obvious problem that I would expect an intern to catch.
  20. JFP in PA
    I rather doubt that the MAF could cause this without throwing a MAF related code, which you do not have.
  21. JFP in PA
    Aftermarket replacements, particularly HID units, cause all sorts of headaches ranging from weird electrical issues to cars failing state inspection either because the lights did not have the correct focusing lenses, or were devoid of DOT approval markings (mandatory in some states here). Because of all the problems we have seen, we also consider aftermarket headlights a "deduct" item when doing a PPI on a car.
  22. JFP in PA
    It is probably sitting on top of the fuel tank, so it won't do any harm. I would just get a replacement and call it a day.
  23. JFP in PA
    OK, go to the first post, and click on that link (in blue), that will take you to another page, scroll down near the bottom and you should see another link to a PDF file (again in blue). Click on that and you should see/download what you want.
  24. JFP in PA
    What are you trying to download?
  25. JFP in PA
    It all depends upon how long you expect your engine to live, and how much of the marketing "Kool Aid" that oil producers and car manufacturer's spout you are willing to swallow. The optimum method to determine when the oil should be changed is by monitoring the used oil's TBN (total base number), which indicates how far gone the additive package is at any point. When the TBN drops from virgin levels to 50%, it is time to change the oil. You should also be looking at contaminants that collect in the oil, particularly fuel and water. Those of us that collect this data, and spend most of our lives inside these engines, will tell you 5-6K miles is about it. Beyond that point, the oil is falling out of grade (no longer the advertised weights), its film strengths are significantly diminished, and the contaminants start to become corrosive to engine components.
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